Posts Tagged ‘Fine Molds’ »
A small quick build-up of the new 1/72 scale Darth Vader’s TIE Advanced X1 from Fine Molds for a client.
I received two of these I had on preorder for months from HLJ last week. Their shipping has improved and the yen is much better now.
The kit itself builds up much like the other Fine Molds TIE Fighters but unfortunately does not have the separate wing panels like the other TIEs so masking is required there. Kit comes with standing and seated Vader figs, decals, masking stickers (ugh) and a stand. I ended up using some vinyl masks I purchased years ago for the other TIEs as they work here too.
Painted base coat (over black primer) for the Darth Vader Tie. This is a mix of Tamiya XF-1 White with XF-66 Light Grey. It’s too light by design as I’ll use filters and discoloration to darken it to the “correct” shade.
After 4-5 filters of 502 Abteilung oil paints Navy Blue + Starship Filth thinned excessively with odorless turpenoid.
I shaded and highlighted the panels with more filter wash and thin white oil paint for the highlights. Vader says “ready my ship” before using this which probably means he has this fighter for a reason AND uses it. I figure based on his mentioned piloting skills, he uses it often enough to have some weathering.
A final filter layer of Starship Filth was applied, then the wings were attached. The mini Darth Vaders were painted with a satin black overall then I brushed on some Future Floor Acrylic for the shiny parts and acrylics for the small buttons on his chest.
I didn’t know that these kits existed until last week! I’ve been in such an Industria Mechanika cloud that other genres I typically build have kind of book set aside so could focus. However while looking at HLJ for another plastic kit (The Hasegawa Last Exile II Van Ship) I saw these and had to bite on 3 of them as I’ve always really liked the design. I figured I’d put them in the stash and get to them whenevs, but not the case. I started these on Friday afternoon and as of Sunday night, they’re just about done aside from the final pigments. They’re a great “Mental Health Build” although mine usually end up being more “Mental” than “Healthy” … Anyway, here’s the progress pics and details:
Building these is a breeze thanks to Fine Molds usual detail and good parts/nub placement. Only needed a little putty to smooth the seams on the grey/chrome engine parts. I also used just a little epoxy putty in-between some of the color-separated parts to have the panel lines not be so deep.
I used the normal pilots (not Anikan) for all 3 craft. I hand-painted them with Tamiya Acrylics and gave them a little oil paint wash. I painted the interior and gave that a slight wash as well. The canopies were dipped in Future and when dry attached to the hull.
As you can see by the AA battery, it’s not a very large piece.
Once the glue holding the canopy had dried, I covered the canopies with 2 layers of Parafilm M.
Using a sharp razor and a steady hand, the excess was trimmed away leaving just the “glass” masked.
Ships were primed with Mr Surfacer 1000, then painted in Mr. Color Gloss Black and Alclad II Polished Aluminum. (kinda like their chrome) I had planned to do one of the three in all metal, but once I started, I realized I didn’t like the look after all.
Once the metal cured, I buffed the parts with some AK-Interactive Dark Steel pigment which kept it very shiny, polished it to a nicer sheen, and darkened the metal a bit. Then the metal was coated in a thin layer of gloss Future Floor Acrylic.
The metal was masked off based on my references making sure the metal went all the way to the edges on the bottom and cut across the front yellow plastic portion of the craft. One could get a decent looking N1 without masking, but to be accurate, masking is a must. For the yellow I first sprayed on a nice even coat of Tamiya white, then an even coat of Tamiya Flat Yellow. I then sprayed some custom yellow-orange Tamiya (yellow + red) around the edges and such to do some slight modulation highlighting. So the top-center of the hull and the engines are slightly lighter than the rest. Then I coated it in gloss Future and removed the masking tape.
I applied the very nice kit-supplied waterslide decals. These are very nice and go on easy enough. The R2s are tricky, but I’ve decaled enough Fine Molds R2′s over the years that I knew what to expect. A semi-gloss coat was applied to all the parts.
Before removing the Parafilm from the canopy, I misted on some AK-Interactive Winter Streaking Grime with the airbrush. No need to thin it, but make sure the mist is very finely applied. Don’t overdo it. Then you can take brushes dampened with odorless Turpenoid and streak/blend/mottle in the grime so that it deposits in the panel lines and elsewhere.
Next-up I’ll apply some “black” pigment burns and weapon-streaks (or I’ll airbrush them on) and then I’ll do a little more of the Dark Steel pigment application to bring back some of the metal obscured by the clearcoat and grime.
Here’s a duo of 1/72 Fine Molds starfighters for the upcoming Death Star 2 diorama. Wedge’s Red 2 X-Wing and Gray Leader’s Y-Wing. These were painted just like the Millennium Falcon whichg is why there’s no how-to’s or in-progs. The markings were all painted on. The only decals I used were for the R2 units. These were lit with white 5mm LEDs dipped in Red for the X-Wing (which has a pinkish hue) and Red-Orange for the Y-Wing. The wires will be hidden in tubing when applied to the final diorama.
EDIT: Forgot the yellow on the X-Wing thanks to Fine Molds incorrect instructions. Added it with yellow oils. Added a new image below and the rest to the gallery. Here’s the updated pic + one with all 4 Rebel ships.
I’ve had these 1/48 scale Fine Molds Snowspeeders almost done for a while now, but just needed to paint the pilot figures. I started painting them last week since I needed to paint a couple 1/72 Rebel pilots as well and finished them a few days ago. These were painted with Tamiya Acrylics, 502 Abteilung oil paint, and Pigment powders. Basically the same techniques I used for the Millenium Falcon.
The two orange speeders are for a client’s diorama. One will be in flight while the other is downed with a pilot being rescued. The two grey “Luke” speeders are for sale if anyone is interested. I can sell them as-is or make a small Hoth display base with the Rebel Turret kit I mastered. Just send me an email if interested for a quote.
As seen in a few of the images, the canopies don’t want to stay completely closed as-is. This can be easily fixed by gluing them shut, but I wasn’t sure how potential clients might want them, so for now, they’re unglued and open-able.
Here’s pics of all four speeders:
You’ve watched the build up, so now I present the completed images. Hope you guys enjoyed the process. The kit seems very intimidating at first, but aside from the lighting it’s very simple to put together… it’s just big. Hopefully I’ve managed to demystify some of the techniques I use and have helped some of you learn and improve upon your techniques.
And here’s the last part of the Falcon painting and weathering tutorial. I hope you guys have enjoyed it. This last step is the application of pigments to enhance the engine grime and add blaster marks.
Here’s an animation showing the pics from start to finish. This shows the gradual application of grime and darkening of the kit. No need to start with a dark paint to get dirt.
Been a few days since the last update, but the individual panel discoloration takes a bit of time, both in application and in drying. However the results are fabulous. Here’s the model with the panels completed.
Once they had dried it was time to apply the streaking. Here’s the tutorial followed by a few notes below.
Once the tutorial was over I worked on the rest of the model and decided to add some more defined dark streaks. These are done almost the same way. Paint them on very thinly with thinned oils then blend them with a dry or damp brush. Simple, but effective. Here’s the completed streaking. Next up: pigments.
I needed to let the kit rest another day since it’s been really humid and dank here. That tends to make oil paint take longer to dry and I don’t have a large enough “hot-box” for this kit. (wood crate with a lightbulb for heat… speeds drying time) This next step will take me another day or two to complete not including drying time, but I wanted to show the video now.
This step is painting indevidual panels much like I did on the Tantive IV. This adds depth and dimension and a whole lot of visual interest. Here;s the video tutorial…
And here is the photo of what I did during and immediately following the video to provide more detail.
Part three of this tutorial series covers painting the gray panels with oil paints. Pardon the stutters in the video. This was take two after a mishap involving oil paint on my favorite jeans and a screw-up trying to use liquid mask which the thinner involved apparently works great at removing.
Here’s the completed vessel.
For most of the painting I was able to simply paint an entire panel using the panel lines as a guide. For some however I needed to hand-paint the edge. This sounds difficult, especially with the blending, but after you blend, you can clean-up the outside edge with a 1/4″ flat brush dampened with turpenoid. This removes the edge oil paint since it’s still wet. Another fantastic feature of painting with oils… easy mistake fixes!
For different gray panels I used different mixtures of oil paint. Some had “Starship Filth” used instead of the “Dark Mud”. This makes for a more realistic and visually pleasing look.
This same technique, while not videoed was applied to the two yellow panels on the underside using 502 Abteilung Luftwaffe Yellow.
Now my workshop has been a little cool and damp the past day or so which makes the oils take longer to dry. Hopefully they’re dry enough tomorrow, but if not they will certainly be the next day to continue on. I’ll also take a photo of my pallet so you can see the paint colors used in case you need to mix your own.
Today I applied my second layer of the Discoloration Technique to the Falcon. Usually I only apply one layer, but I really want this to have a lot of depth and a lot of age to the look. First off is part 2 of the video tutorial:
And again, here’s a close-up image of the area I worked on before applying it to the rest of the kit.
Here’s the kit with the full application of the 2nd discoloration.
Another close-up. While my primer and preshade darkened the visible engine areas, I’ve bee adding extra dark mud and starship filth to those to get them nice and grimy.
After this dries for a day I’ll begin the modulation (adding light and darker tones) to the various panels as well as painting the gray panels in oils.