Posts Tagged ‘Parafilm “M”’ »
I didn’t know that these kits existed until last week! I’ve been in such an Industria Mechanika cloud that other genres I typically build have kind of book set aside so could focus. However while looking at HLJ for another plastic kit (The Hasegawa Last Exile II Van Ship) I saw these and had to bite on 3 of them as I’ve always really liked the design. I figured I’d put them in the stash and get to them whenevs, but not the case. I started these on Friday afternoon and as of Sunday night, they’re just about done aside from the final pigments. They’re a great “Mental Health Build” although mine usually end up being more “Mental” than “Healthy” … Anyway, here’s the progress pics and details:
Building these is a breeze thanks to Fine Molds usual detail and good parts/nub placement. Only needed a little putty to smooth the seams on the grey/chrome engine parts. I also used just a little epoxy putty in-between some of the color-separated parts to have the panel lines not be so deep.
I used the normal pilots (not Anikan) for all 3 craft. I hand-painted them with Tamiya Acrylics and gave them a little oil paint wash. I painted the interior and gave that a slight wash as well. The canopies were dipped in Future and when dry attached to the hull.
As you can see by the AA battery, it’s not a very large piece.
Once the glue holding the canopy had dried, I covered the canopies with 2 layers of Parafilm M.
Using a sharp razor and a steady hand, the excess was trimmed away leaving just the “glass” masked.
Ships were primed with Mr Surfacer 1000, then painted in Mr. Color Gloss Black and Alclad II Polished Aluminum. (kinda like their chrome) I had planned to do one of the three in all metal, but once I started, I realized I didn’t like the look after all.
Once the metal cured, I buffed the parts with some AK-Interactive Dark Steel pigment which kept it very shiny, polished it to a nicer sheen, and darkened the metal a bit. Then the metal was coated in a thin layer of gloss Future Floor Acrylic.
The metal was masked off based on my references making sure the metal went all the way to the edges on the bottom and cut across the front yellow plastic portion of the craft. One could get a decent looking N1 without masking, but to be accurate, masking is a must. For the yellow I first sprayed on a nice even coat of Tamiya white, then an even coat of Tamiya Flat Yellow. I then sprayed some custom yellow-orange Tamiya (yellow + red) around the edges and such to do some slight modulation highlighting. So the top-center of the hull and the engines are slightly lighter than the rest. Then I coated it in gloss Future and removed the masking tape.
I applied the very nice kit-supplied waterslide decals. These are very nice and go on easy enough. The R2s are tricky, but I’ve decaled enough Fine Molds R2′s over the years that I knew what to expect. A semi-gloss coat was applied to all the parts.
Before removing the Parafilm from the canopy, I misted on some AK-Interactive Winter Streaking Grime with the airbrush. No need to thin it, but make sure the mist is very finely applied. Don’t overdo it. Then you can take brushes dampened with odorless Turpenoid and streak/blend/mottle in the grime so that it deposits in the panel lines and elsewhere.
Next-up I’ll apply some “black” pigment burns and weapon-streaks (or I’ll airbrush them on) and then I’ll do a little more of the Dark Steel pigment application to bring back some of the metal obscured by the clearcoat and grime.
And here’s the last part of the Falcon painting and weathering tutorial. I hope you guys have enjoyed it. This last step is the application of pigments to enhance the engine grime and add blaster marks.
Here’s an animation showing the pics from start to finish. This shows the gradual application of grime and darkening of the kit. No need to start with a dark paint to get dirt.
Been a few days since the last update, but the individual panel discoloration takes a bit of time, both in application and in drying. However the results are fabulous. Here’s the model with the panels completed.
Once they had dried it was time to apply the streaking. Here’s the tutorial followed by a few notes below.
Once the tutorial was over I worked on the rest of the model and decided to add some more defined dark streaks. These are done almost the same way. Paint them on very thinly with thinned oils then blend them with a dry or damp brush. Simple, but effective. Here’s the completed streaking. Next up: pigments.
I needed to let the kit rest another day since it’s been really humid and dank here. That tends to make oil paint take longer to dry and I don’t have a large enough “hot-box” for this kit. (wood crate with a lightbulb for heat… speeds drying time) This next step will take me another day or two to complete not including drying time, but I wanted to show the video now.
This step is painting indevidual panels much like I did on the Tantive IV. This adds depth and dimension and a whole lot of visual interest. Here;s the video tutorial…
And here is the photo of what I did during and immediately following the video to provide more detail.
Part three of this tutorial series covers painting the gray panels with oil paints. Pardon the stutters in the video. This was take two after a mishap involving oil paint on my favorite jeans and a screw-up trying to use liquid mask which the thinner involved apparently works great at removing.
Here’s the completed vessel.
For most of the painting I was able to simply paint an entire panel using the panel lines as a guide. For some however I needed to hand-paint the edge. This sounds difficult, especially with the blending, but after you blend, you can clean-up the outside edge with a 1/4″ flat brush dampened with turpenoid. This removes the edge oil paint since it’s still wet. Another fantastic feature of painting with oils… easy mistake fixes!
For different gray panels I used different mixtures of oil paint. Some had “Starship Filth” used instead of the “Dark Mud”. This makes for a more realistic and visually pleasing look.
This same technique, while not videoed was applied to the two yellow panels on the underside using 502 Abteilung Luftwaffe Yellow.
Now my workshop has been a little cool and damp the past day or so which makes the oils take longer to dry. Hopefully they’re dry enough tomorrow, but if not they will certainly be the next day to continue on. I’ll also take a photo of my pallet so you can see the paint colors used in case you need to mix your own.
Today I applied my second layer of the Discoloration Technique to the Falcon. Usually I only apply one layer, but I really want this to have a lot of depth and a lot of age to the look. First off is part 2 of the video tutorial:
And again, here’s a close-up image of the area I worked on before applying it to the rest of the kit.
Here’s the kit with the full application of the 2nd discoloration.
Another close-up. While my primer and preshade darkened the visible engine areas, I’ve bee adding extra dark mud and starship filth to those to get them nice and grimy.
After this dries for a day I’ll begin the modulation (adding light and darker tones) to the various panels as well as painting the gray panels in oils.
Moving right along, it’s time for a tutorial on discoloration. I’ve talked about this technique on just about every weathered model I’ve done for the past 6 years or so. It’s fantastic and really gives the surface a beautiful worn appearance. All of these steps add layers of detail, color and weathering to the model enhancing the finished appearance. Experiment with different colors over different base coats. First off, my first voiced tutorial video… [shudders] You may be able to get the HD version I uploaded by clicking the link.
Here’s an image of that section completed to show what the video may not. Note that the parts to the left and right were not discolored yet, only filtered.
Now here’s the entire Falcon with the discoloration applied.
And a battle droid? No, wait… (He’ll barely be visible once the gun is mounted. Chewie is operating the lower turret. LOL!
And finally, here’s the clear replacement engine parts. I painted them with Tamiya Smoke then a flat coat so that they’ll light up nicely, but not be too visible when the light’s off.
Now that the Tantive IV is done and I’m feeling refreshed and inspired to model again, I’ve come back to the Millenium Falcon build. “Come back” you say? Yeah… I started this in August and got it almost ready for paint, then something happened and I put it aside for a while. I had posted pics of the beginnings of Facebook, but not in the site. No worries as I’m reposting those pics here as well. This build will eventually go into the large Death Star 2 diorama. Here it is compared to the A-Wing, also to be in the diorama.
My client and I decided that this beastie needed to be fully lit. Wiring was the usual pain in the ass having burned myself several times and melting a few LEDs in the process causing some rework. I’m not used to soldering but I wanted everything to be very robust. The usual wire wrap I use is too brittle to risk inside of this.
Using the Acreations photoetch update set I was able to easily do the cockpit lighting. The set is awesome and has all the holes to backlight the consoles ready to go. Just paint and add the fantastic decals and the cockpit is about ready.
The figures with the exception of Nien Nunb the copilot were modified from the kit figures. Basically I just added rebel hats to Luke and Obiwan made from Aves and modded Han to make Lando. Nien Nunb is from a Studio Starforge resin figure set.
Lincoln is huge.
And now onto the good part… the kit construction was finished yesterday so what you see below is todays progress. I decided to do a short step-by-step on the painting process since there was a lot if interest in how I did the Tantive IV paint.
I started off by priming the kit. I didn’t have any typical gray primer, but I had dark gray and white Duplicolor primer. So I first primed it in the dark gray primer, then applied a second coat of the white. This had a slight shading benefit and came out the base primer gray I wanted. Windows were masked with Parafilm “M”.
Next I preshaded the panel lines and recesses using Tamiya German Gray. No need to be precise as the effect will be pretty subtle after the top-coat. If not… you’re not doing it right. If you’re having trouble, your top-coat may be too thin or your pre-shade may be too dark. Experiment with different color preshades. For a tan vehicle, try a brown pre-shade, etc…
Next I applied the top-coat. This was a mixture of Tamiya Flat White (1 jar) + Tamiya Gloss White (1/3 Jar) + Tamiya Flat Earth and Neutral Gray. Apply it uniformly on the tops and bottoms and spray at an angle over detail areas to retail some of the pre-shade in recesses.
Once the top-coat cured a bit I masked and painted the dulled red markings. I would apply tape, then sponge on some 502 Abteilung Liquid Mask for the chips. Once sprayed and cured a bit rub the mask off to reveal the chips. After that I sponged on some light gray chips. This will show up as chips and texture in the end. Mostly be careful not to over-do it. I concentrated on areas in the reference that were chipped as well as masses of raised detail parts. You may notice I did not mask the dark gray or yellow panels. This is because I plan to hand-paint these with oils during the later modulation phase. I did this with some of the darker panels on the Tantive IV with great results.
When the chipping is done immediately apply your first filter. I used a 502 Abteilung German Ochre oil paint thinned with odorless turpenoid. This is thinner than a wash, but not applied like a wash. Just dampen your brush and paint it onto the kit. If it’s flowing into panel lines and pooling you’re brush is too wet with filter. Depending on your thinness or desired color you may need a few layers of filter. You should wait 4-12 hours inbetween. The filter soaks into the flat paint quite nicely so try to do it before any clearcoats.
The filter will slightly modify your paint colors. You may be asking: “Why filter it at all? Why not paint it the right color from the start”. Well, sometimes it’s hard to get the right paint color as they tend to look different after sprayed from an airbrush and dry. The filter is like using Photoshop on your model to tweak the color. It also has the benefit of being uneven enough to act as the first signs of weathering and to tie unrelated colors together so that they look like they belong on the same model/saw the same conditions.
And finally for this update, some pics of the lighting. I still need to install the clear engine parts casts and the covering “grill”.
My paint arrived! So I was able to paint the fins the metallic greenish color I wanted. I achieved the color by mixing Mr. Metal Color Aluminum, Bronze, and Brass. Once that was done, I was able to build and affix the fins to their various mounting points and start the much debated weathering.
Some folks wanted me to stop after my last post because let’s face it, that was a beautiful copper finish. I was torn, but decided that I’ll build another fish later and make it shiny since I already have the mounting hole on the side of this.
To start off, I applied 502 Abteilung oil paints with a brush randomly with odorless turpenoid. While still wet I dabbed them with a piece of sponge to remove brush strokes and give it more texture/random splotchiness. After it dried a bit I applied a semi-gloss coat of Future over everything. The colors used for this step were: German Ochre, Dark Rust, Wash Brown, Industrial Earth, Faded Navy Blue, and Shadow Brown. (red pallet below)
After the clear-coat cured a bit (3-4 hours) I used more 502 Abteilung oil paints (blue pallet below) to apply the random splotches of blue green patina. For this I did a combination of the discoloration technique and the aforementioned sponging. The colors used for this step were: Faded Navy Blue, Gundam Blue, Faded Green, German Grey Highlight and Snow White. I used the faded green, german grey highlight and gundam blue to mix up a base patina color as seen in the pallet paper I used below.
Again, I’m pretty happy with the results. The patina colors look better in person so I’ll try to take better pics later. There’s more depth and vibrancy to them than seen here. Tomorrow I’ll give this a satin coat and do some pin washes to deepen some panel lines. Below is the scrap of pallet paper I used for the oil paints. Read above for what I used.
Today I masked and painted the brass details on the fish. I used Parafilm ‘M’ for the portholes and fin mounts. All I’ve left to paint are the fins themselves, but I’m waiting on a paint order. I really like how it’s looking at this unweathered stage and am considering building another just like this, but putting it on a base as a display in a late 1800′s world fair.