Author Topic: JB Weld?  (Read 3822 times)

October 30, 2008, 10:44:25 AM
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taz1004

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I'm planning to build the scene below with MG 2.0 kits.  Kits are already ordered.  Since I'm still trying to learn various techniques, this time I'm planning to tackle LED's.  But I'm also trying to build this diorama without having to put support on the Zaku... having it held up only by the beam sabre.  I thought of putting metal pipe inside the Gundam to hold the weight of Zaku but the problem seems to be the wrist and the hand.  I don't think I can implant a strong enough metal pipe without protrusion.  Plus, I'd have to put wiring through it as well.

So I was searching for different ways to strengthen the joints of the Gundam and was thinking if JB Weld would hold it.  It claims that the bond is as strong as welding and with 4,000 psi tensile strenght, that should be plenty strong enough to hold one MG Zaku.  But since I've never used JB Weld before, I'd like to get some opinions before I go ahead with it.  Does anybody think that this won't work?  JB Weld says it bonds plastic as well but would it melt the plastic?  Or any other better suggestions?


October 30, 2008, 04:19:41 PM
Reply #1

amurorey

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I think using ver 1.0 kit would be better in this incident.
the latest 2.0 kits are decked out with internal frames which is very cool but not much of use for the diorama.

I'd use 1.0 Zaku II and replace/reconstruct the arm/shoulder frame for Gundam.
That JB Weld(?) may locked the joint solid but the weight of 2.0 Zaku II will result the entire Gundam frame broken off...
or so I think...

another thing to consider is depending the position the beam sabre won't have to be the only contact point supporting the full weight of Zaku II. Maybe its toe or something slightly touching Gundam and by doing so you can distribute the weight more evenly...

October 30, 2008, 06:08:02 PM
Reply #2

taz1004

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Thanks for the input amurorey. I'm planning to remove most of inside frames that are not visible so in regard to complexity of frames, 2.0 should work fine I think.  Reason I went with 2.0 is because I actually like the proportion... especially the Gundam.  MG Zaku II is not that heavy... especially with most of the frames removed so I doubt the Gundam's frame will break as long as the joints hold.  Like I've said, most of the joints such as shoulders or knees don't worry me much since I'm sure implanting some metal rods should hold it well.  But area of concern is the hand.  There aren't much room to implant metal rods AND lay down the wiring.  I guess the easiest thing to do is what you suggested at the end which I was hoping to avoid by using steel epoxy such as JB Weld.

October 30, 2008, 06:41:31 PM
Reply #3

amurorey

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...But area of concern is the hand.  There aren't much room to implant metal rods AND lay down the wiring.  I guess the easiest thing to do is what you suggested at the end which I was hoping to avoid by using steel epoxy such as JB Weld.

short of casting new hand with the sabre and part of forearm frame as single piece with metal rod inside for the added strength can't think any other way.

one more option albeit not as clean look as others would be putting the clear acrylic rod to support Zaku II.
Also in regards to Zaku II 2.0 I'd personally use Zaku II F2. Surely I can find F2 at much lower price than v2.0.
It's just shame that you will be throwing out much of internal frame...