Author Topic: Kitbashing (like a boss): Mech  (Read 29038 times)

June 04, 2011, 09:14:26 AM
Reply #20

mvm3897

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Awesome WIP here.  love all the pics and detailed explenations.  The gatling gun looks sick and super nice job on the bulletts
SNIFFING RESIN DUST IS FUN!!!!!!

June 30, 2011, 04:50:24 AM
Reply #21

Bhm

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Hello, fellow mellonfarmers! It's update time.

I've started gluing things together! Isn't that nice? Yes, it is... I got tired of the sticky tacked bits falling apart.

First off: Railgun!
This caused me some serious headache, design wise. Every idea I'd had looked like junk so I started reading up on them and found a prototype design I really liked.

Especially the brake disc thing on the side made it look bad ass, so I decided to steal that idea.

Railguns are made up of two parallel rails that when powered by a powerful negative and a positive current can hurl a magnetic object at massive speeds. I decided to stick with that basic idea and thus made two rails with a guide barrel running between them.

So, the basic parts laid out:

And I managed to scavenge the necessary parts from heli rotor bits.

So I decided to also add some wire mesh around the barrel but I removed it since it just cluttered the look.


And here's a shot of it assembled and ready to go. I'm quite happy with that look since it doesn't look dorky like my other ideas and it looks like it means business...


Another angle to show off the other details:

I'm a bit ashamed of the recoil dampener wannabe assembly but it does make it look... well, "science-y". :D

Aaaand yet another angle:


And here's a rear shot:


MINIGUN TIME! (all the children in the audience go "yaaaay!")
Who doesn't like miniguns? Well, scientific studies show that victims of miniguns along with shrubbery, trees and general undergrowth have proven to dislike miniguns (true story).
So, I decided it was time to glue the sucker together aswell as assemble the details and the radar cylinder assembly. I discarded the previous layout and went all out radical.
The new look makes it look like it wants to hurt children. And that's good for a minigun.  Unless the minigun works in child care.

First shot:


Rear shot:


Proper side shot:


I also glued together the torso. The area where the original kit's head would have been was a huge gaping crater so I covered it with a small sheet of evergreen.
I then took a bit of the leg and glued it to the heat dissipation backpack to give it a more unified, blocky look. I also moved the chest armor plate up where it's head would've been.
Lastly I widened the leg bit and then made a part to bridge the gap between the leg part and the chest plate. Here's a shot of the detailing process:



And here's a shot of the facia.

Yes, I'm dumb. Don't mention it.

And finally:

I took a bit of the helmet and put it in as a way to break up the shape. It looked to rounded.
Now it looks like a beaver. I'm thinking of sticking with that look :D

And another angle:


I'm going to have to start working on the part I dread the most... The god damned legs. It's going to be a horrible mess :(
« Last Edit: June 30, 2011, 06:34:58 AM by Bhm »

June 30, 2011, 06:42:28 AM
Reply #22

Gavros

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Brilliant WIP, great annotations. That is a sexy amount of detailing. Look forward to what you do next!
Blog:


June 30, 2011, 06:46:49 AM
Reply #23

Steel-Mark

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Very cool.
With all details it is looking great!

June 30, 2011, 07:02:41 AM
Reply #24

Sharkdog

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This thing looks bloody amazing.

And I quite enjoy the heavy amount of revisions you go through as well ;)

June 30, 2011, 12:12:50 PM
Reply #25

Marc

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The railgun and the gatling look fantastic! Still loving the detailled wip!

July 01, 2011, 01:08:38 PM
Reply #26

FichtenFoo

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July 02, 2011, 11:27:19 AM
Reply #27

nico

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July 07, 2011, 01:27:49 AM
Reply #28

singlemedia

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loving the details man. ninja mode  :ninja:

July 08, 2011, 03:32:35 PM
Reply #29

Bhm

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Thanks for the encouragement and kind words, dudes. I still haven't started on the legs. I'm putting it off since I'm thinking of scratch building the whole shebang except the feet. I'm experimenting with a few methods to see which yields the most satisfying results. Since I'll be doing two of every part I'll need to find a way to duplicate things. I'm thinking of going with sheet styrene and lots of cutting and snapping.

July 08, 2011, 04:22:13 PM
Reply #30

Sharkdog

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As long as you keep doing it like a boss, I'm sure it'll be awesome.

July 08, 2011, 11:43:40 PM
Reply #31

Grail

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Love this wip. +1. I may annotate next time more as well. We have some similar techniques.
Quote
I'm going to have to start working on the part I dread the most... The god damned legs. It's going to be a horrible mess
I have said it. It has been said by others to me, and I am a believer that a good leg is 75% of your Bot. I like the direction you were headed originally. My other opinion is ball joints are a cop out  :razz: I just finished a design for an ankle/wrist joint on some stuff I was struggling with for months. Totally worth it so far.

I think the engineering choices you are making are great. I personally could care less how it works in reality, it doesn't need  be practical, it needs to be bad ass. Mission accomplished so far. No need for people getting bent up about practicality of vents or mechs,usually while building a gundam :)
Bitchin' torso. Watching for more.

« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 11:44:14 PM by Grail »
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July 11, 2011, 04:07:19 AM
Reply #32

Bhm

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As long as you keep doing it like a boss, I'm sure it'll be awesome.
Y'know, son. If I can't do it then nobody else can. Pimpin' ain't easy.

Love this wip. +1. I may annotate next time more as well. We have some similar techniques.
Quote
I'm going to have to start working on the part I dread the most... The god damned legs. It's going to be a horrible mess
I have said it. It has been said by others to me, and I am a believer that a good leg is 75% of your Bot. I like the direction you were headed originally. My other opinion is ball joints are a cop out  :razz: I just finished a design for an ankle/wrist joint on some stuff I was struggling with for months. Totally worth it so far.

I think the engineering choices you are making are great. I personally could care less how it works in reality, it doesn't need  be practical, it needs to be bad ass. Mission accomplished so far. No need for people getting bent up about practicality of vents or mechs,usually while building a gundam :)
Bitchin' torso. Watching for more.

Yeah, I agree that stuff needs to first, and foremost look bad ass, but my main gripe about Gundams is that they look so totally unrealistic that I at least try to make my stuff look like something that can be used in future warfare. The legs in my configuration are very inflexible and makes the mech look heavily off center. Plus I want to have a go at a three jointed leg to see if I can pull it off. I have a new technique that I think you'll like. I'll post about it when I get around to getting it done :)

But first; something completely different. I thought I'd do some trial and error-ing in preparation of the diorama base so I made a simple mock up to practice on. You know how you can suffer from project blindness after a while? Well, I think I suffer from it now so critique is more than welcome.

Here are the results:



I went with the principle that patterns in nature are never uniform. So the parts away from the camera are greener that the parts closer to it.
I aimed for a drier look on most of it with splashes of green here and there. The base is made of floral foam with plaster bandage on top. The whole shebang was then painted reddish brown and the top olive drab. I then applied a layer of generic light brown flock and then went to town with the rest.

I think it turned out quite nicely. My biggest problem were the rocks but I tried a bunch of different stuff and finally found a method that nets decent results.
Here are the products I used:


Here are the pigment and washes:

The washes are from Maus Werx. I've said it before and I say it again, their stuff is amazing.


And here's the ground cover stuff. Going clockwise from upper left:
Maus Werx' Fall Mix,  Maus Werx' Summer Mix, My own special 'Boss Mix', Woodland Scenics' Autumn Grass.
The 'Boss Mix' is 5 different static grass colors mixed together with a heavy bias towards green. I've also added some shredded and cut classfiber along with some dried and powdered birch catkins to add some yellowy brown texture (seen as specks in the pink container).
The Maus Werx stuff directly from the jars look a bit stuffy so I diluted it with my 'BOSS MIX 2000(tm)' closer to the green parts while blending in more autumn grass for the drier parts.
The tall grass was made using three different shades of Woodland Scenics' field grass: "Harvest Gold", "Light Green" and Medium Green".


Sadly, the harsh direct light of my work lamp washes out the subtle highlights I achieved using the pigments which is why the rocks look odd in the picture.
I actually highlighted it enough so that it showed under the work lights but it looked really artificial in natural light so I washed it off and redid it.

None of the pictures actually manages to convey the brown dust at the base of the rocks... I need to get a better camera  :(
« Last Edit: July 11, 2011, 08:16:32 AM by Bhm »

July 11, 2011, 10:53:17 AM
Reply #33

Grail

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Awesomeness. This thing is right up my arsenal for mech stuff. 8) I feel like it's even better than being "like a boss". I need to upgrade this to "On a Boat!" :lol:
Quote
You know how you can suffer from project blindness after a while? Well, I think I suffer from it now so critique is more than welcome.
My critique is that you are doing the exact right thing changing it up,and moving to an organic item as well. I have to do this kind of thing (change up the perspective) all the time at work too,and when you get back to the original piece it always gives you a new creative direction. At least it usually gives you a better idea of what you want to do.
I agree critique from others always helps as well since you get a little married to what you are doing and need a fresh set of eyes to tell you you're being ridiculous.(at least I need that)
Great part about modeling as a hobby,you can keep your ugly ridiculous ideas and not care if you like.  :-) :wacko:

The base is great. Can't even say I would change anything. Really tight. The scale seems good too.We have some similar techniques,so it's cool to see how somebody else approaches it. Can't wait to see the mech on the base and the new leg idea.
Any color ideas yet ? I always suggest the section here for that. http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=457.0    http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=457.20

Also,I posted some info earlier on how to get some macro shots a little cheaper with DLSRs,but mvm3897 mentioned you can just shoot through a magnifying glass! Maybe that will help too?
Cheers man,looking Bossy  8)
For the record. Pimpin' IS easy  :ninja:  ;)  :razz:
« Last Edit: July 11, 2011, 10:59:00 AM by Grail »
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July 15, 2011, 02:51:52 AM
Reply #34

Bhm

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Awesomeness. This thing is right up my arsenal for mech stuff. 8) I feel like it's even better than being "like a boss". I need to upgrade this to "On a Boat!" :lol:
Quote
You know how you can suffer from project blindness after a while? Well, I think I suffer from it now so critique is more than welcome.
My critique is that you are doing the exact right thing changing it up,and moving to an organic item as well. I have to do this kind of thing (change up the perspective) all the time at work too,and when you get back to the original piece it always gives you a new creative direction. At least it usually gives you a better idea of what you want to do.
I agree critique from others always helps as well since you get a little married to what you are doing and need a fresh set of eyes to tell you you're being ridiculous.(at least I need that)
Great part about modeling as a hobby,you can keep your ugly ridiculous ideas and not care if you like.  :-) :wacko:

The base is great. Can't even say I would change anything. Really tight. The scale seems good too.We have some similar techniques,so it's cool to see how somebody else approaches it. Can't wait to see the mech on the base and the new leg idea.
Any color ideas yet ? I always suggest the section here for that. http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=457.0    http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=457.20

Also,I posted some info earlier on how to get some macro shots a little cheaper with DLSRs,but mvm3897 mentioned you can just shoot through a magnifying glass! Maybe that will help too?
Cheers man,looking Bossy  8)
For the record. Pimpin' IS easy  :ninja:  ;)  :razz:

Thanks for your input, dude. Highly appreciated. I have a few ideas about the color scheme but I'm holding off until it's nearer completion. Oh, and by the way, the base is just a mock up done as an exercise to check if my material selection is good or not. I've never done any proper diorama or base work before. It's mostly been shitty Warhammer 40k stuff like 11 years ago

Anyway, fellow melon farmers. This is what I thought up. I don't know if it's a new theory or whatever, it's so obvious someone's bound to have done this before me.
I remembered a bunch of papercraft stuff I've seen on the net and I remember checking out a program called Pepakura3D ages ago so I thought I'd find my old Lightwave 5 CD and get to town. (Yes! Lightwave 5! It's like 13 years old! For those not in the loop, Lightwave is currently at version 10 or something :) )
Pepakura3D is a program that turns 3D models into printable papercraft blueprints.

So, I fired up Lightwave Modeler and created a simple shape.


I then ran it through Acutrans3D (a freeware program for 3D model conversion into other formats) since Pepakura3D thought something was wrong with the model.

I then imported it into Pepakura3D and unwrapped it.

Note the triangular shapes on the 2D view. Those are tabs that are meant to hold the glue that keeps the papermodel together. We don't need those so I cut them off when I printed it out.


Here's the printout. I named the surfaces so it'll be easier for you guys to follow.


After cutting it out and removing the tabs I glued it to a regular sheet of evergreen styrene with a standard glue stick.


Here's the part after I removed the excess plastic using a sharp knife to score the plastic and a metal ruler.


I then scored the intersecting parts with the knife.


Tadaaa! Ready for gluing. The paper is easily removed with soap and water after it's glued (i just tried it). And, no. This is not a part of the model. This is just a test piece...

This will make scratch building a shitload easier. I was thinking of doing the legs in Lightwave and then sending it to Shapeways3D to have it printed in 3D but that would end up costing something like $20 per piece and the leg is made up of 3 pieces each. No, I'm not willing to spend $120 on the legs alone  :doh:

As I said, I'm not touting this as a unique idea. I bet someone has done this before.

Oh, and this is actually compatible with Google's free Sketchup program! Pepakura3D is free for download, the shareware version won't allow you to save the project but you're still able to import, unwrap and print with it. Acutrans 3D is freeware aswell if you happen to be using some obscure 3D suite.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2011, 03:02:53 AM by Bhm »

July 15, 2011, 04:44:15 AM
Reply #35

Marc

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It is a nice trick but honestly, I think the old method of measuring and drawing directly on the plastic card is much more precise and effective: I'd guess the paper will hinder the precision of the cut.
In other words, LESS COMPUTERZ, MORE GATLINGZ!1! :razz:

I'm sure in certain cases, it's a much more efficient technique.

July 15, 2011, 06:23:44 AM
Reply #36

Bhm

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It is a nice trick but honestly, I think the old method of measuring and drawing directly on the plastic card is much more precise and effective: I'd guess the paper will hinder the precision of the cut.
In other words, LESS COMPUTERZ, MORE GATLINGZ!1! :razz:

I'm sure in certain cases, it's a much more efficient technique.

Oh no, you don't, monsieur Mocheté! Don't bash something you haven't tried  :razz:

There it is. I cut it lazily, glued it sloppily and didn't bother to sand it much at all. It's a very speedy process all in all and nets decent results so I'll be trying this for my legs. Except I'll cut, glue and sand them the correct way  :shifty:

Edit: Well, it could turn out that you're right and I'm about to waste a lot of time but I'm doing this... FOR SCIENCE! Progress comes from failure and pain.  :pirate2:
« Last Edit: July 15, 2011, 06:25:56 AM by Bhm »

July 15, 2011, 07:36:13 AM
Reply #37

FichtenFoo

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That looks like too much work. You need to fill every edge that way. Better to glue at right angles, sand and fill so they're perfectly flat/smooth, THEN use a large bastard file to bevel the edges if needed.

Basework looks great!

July 15, 2011, 09:17:17 AM
Reply #38

Bhm

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That looks like too much work. You need to fill every edge that way. Better to glue at right angles, sand and fill so they're perfectly flat/smooth, THEN use a large bastard file to bevel the edges if needed.

Basework looks great!

Oh, that was unclear on my part, I'm not assembling it as papercraft. I cut all the pieces apart and THEN glue them together like normal. The only thing I've noted is that some parts then become elongated (since plastic is thicker than paper) and needs to be cut down. It seems as a decent trade off just to bypass the tedious 'draw on plastic then cut' that is the normal way. I'm going to do a full scale test tomorrow and see how it turns out...

July 15, 2011, 12:18:29 PM
Reply #39

Grail

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So, I fired up Lightwave Modeler and created a simple shape.
..then turned it off as that was the extent of it's capabilities.  :lol:
You should try rubbing 2 rocks together and wishing your renders out. That is Lightwave V9.5 btw.   :lol:  :razz:  PS. I still keyframe. Mocap is for interns..   :ninja:  :razz:
This is looking cool. I really wanna see what your leg idea is..

To be honest,I end up ditching the use of 3d a lot in this sport.  ^_^  
I often find the regular measure and cut method easier as well as faster. Having said that,the autotrans solution is brilliant.
Quote
I'm sure in certain cases, it's a much more efficient technique.
Going from Zbrush or something like it,to a printed maquette phase goes much better with programs like autotrans. That would be a situation that I would absolutely use 3d to get it perfect.

Dying to see this leg joint system.. Is it still a 3 joint system? Something new?
Ps. I like that you accidentally file and saw your matt. I do too all he time.   :D Also, I know everyone is talking about building the box to be flush with the edges but wouldn't it be kind of a gimme for xtra detail if you DID fold it like the paper craft looking picture? Is there a problem that will surface later that I am missing here?
Cheers.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2011, 12:22:55 PM by Grail »
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