Author Topic: Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions  (Read 169619 times)

December 02, 2008, 11:12:23 AM
Reply #320

walker

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I like it so far. No issues at all. The pressure regulator is odd, but it's my first use of one so maybe that's how they work. I set the pressure by holding down my AB button. But at first there's a slight build-up of pressure before it stabilizes. Nothing major as long as you don't immediately start spraying paint on the part after letting it sit for more than 10 seconds or so. Airblast, trigger back, smooth painting.

Awesome, ordered. I've never used that either but I hear that with all airbrushes/compressors/air supplies/whatever, that you need to spray it on something else first because pressure builds up. So you're saying that if I let the airbrush sit I'll just need to get out the extra pressure first? Not a problem. I'll work on the thing with the spring too. I just feel like there should be a catch somewhere, since the other compressors I was looking at were in the $150+ range... maybe I'm just a crappy shopper. Also those were Aztek/Testors compressors because I wanted something that was the same brand as my airbrush so as to avoid fitting problems, so maybe that was my problem.

Also, I've got an Aztek A320 (lol) and a bunch of different thread size adapters. If it doesn't fit, do you know if I can just go to the hardware store or something and see if they'll make me an adapter? I mean it doesn't have to be the same company compressor and airbrush as long as the thread fits, right?

Thanks again
By the way, say hi to Chris!

December 14, 2008, 11:03:57 PM
Reply #321

walker

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Having the spring problem as well with mine (44 or so psi when idle) so I'm going to apply your fix. It sprays thinner fine at 30, but not paint, although I believe my nozzle is the problem--when I take out the nozzle on my Aztek A320 (but keep the nozzle casing on) I get a real nice steady flow of air, but with the nozzle in there I get next to nothing. (It was subject to a bunch of trial and error with my old compressor so it's probably broken.) Moreover I still have no idea what the hell the little needle and spring combo does--I can't get anything to come out with it in there like it says to have it in the instructions, only when I take it out... and when I stick it in there to clean the nozzle with, paint sticks in the spring. I wish I could just get this crap right for once after a half year of trying and a hell of a lot of money wasted along the way. Anyway, gonna try and buy a new nozzle tomorrow (how widely carried are Aztek nozzles?)

(Sorry about the double post but it's pretty pointless just to edit a month old one with new info nobody will look at.)
« Last Edit: December 14, 2008, 11:05:20 PM by walker »
By the way, say hi to Chris!

January 12, 2009, 06:10:33 PM
Reply #322

merajj

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so i ended up fixing my little pressure problem with gafers (sp?) tape. its perfectly quiet now and doesn't leak air like it used to. im still a bit confused on the way the pressure idles how ever, it goes up to 40, then as you start to spray it drops all the way down to 30 and holds at continuous 30. is it supposed to even be going up to 40 ?

further more i finally got around to spraying a piece today and had a real fun time dealing with the paint being ... too thick perhaps ? i guess my only question was could this be somehow related to a pressure issue ?



thanks bros and brosefs
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January 12, 2009, 07:07:56 PM
Reply #323

Zircor

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so i ended up fixing my little pressure problem with gafers (sp?) tape. its perfectly quiet now and doesn't leak air like it used to. im still a bit confused on the way the pressure idles how ever, it goes up to 40, then as you start to spray it drops all the way down to 30 and holds at continuous 30. is it supposed to even be going up to 40 ?

I've been wondering this too - for those of us that have compressors without tanks (which would keep the pressure constant and make it a moot point) is the pressure we're supposed to be measuring by to spray with (say, for Alclad, that says to use 15 PSI) the pressure we have at idle, or while spraying?

January 18, 2009, 06:36:21 PM
Reply #324

yesterd4y

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What is the ideal tip/needle size? From what I've read, .5mm is too big. Would .3mm be best for detail work and gunpla?

March 28, 2009, 03:49:38 PM
Reply #325

robofreak

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I just pulled my AB apart for it's first complete cleaning. The problem now is that it won't go back together properly. When you pull the back portion out that holds the needle, the trigger assembly comes out in 2 pieces. The problem I'm having is getting the trigger parts to go back together without being locked in one position. I've tried about 4 different ways to put the thing back together, but nothing is working properly. Can someone help me figure out how it should go back together? The instruction diagram is pretty much useless.

The AB I have is the Harbor Freight double action/internal mix by Central Pneumatic.

March 28, 2009, 05:16:13 PM
Reply #326

makalaka

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hmm. Can you possibly post a picture of what your talking about? I or more likely others, will be able to help you out more.

March 28, 2009, 05:26:42 PM
Reply #327

robofreak

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I'm sorry about that! I took the pic, but I forgot to post it. :doh:

Here's the problem. The needle keeps everything stable so it need to into the rear brass area first. From there, It's a matter of putting the trigger together properly. I also notice that there's another part of the brass assembly inside the AB, but it's difficult to remove.


March 28, 2009, 07:00:46 PM
Reply #328

makalaka

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This looks very similar to my badger 155 (which sucks because I paid way more then you did for yours XD) but anyways. I think I know what your problem is because I did the same thing with mine. What I do is first put the gold tube part assembly in but only half the way it goes. Then put the trigger and thing-a-mabob in and slide the needle through and lock it in place with the thumb screw at the end. I then pull back the trigger if its too loose, ie I can pull it back too easily, I tighten the gold assembly, If it's too hard to pull back I loosen the gold assembly. Besides holing the needle in place the gold assembly controls the pressure of the trigger, so if you tighten it all the way it wont let the trigger move back at all. which is what I think your problem is. 

Hope I helped. If not, perhaps someone else can :)

March 28, 2009, 07:20:34 PM
Reply #329

robofreak

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Thank you for telling me how to reassemble it, but now I have another problem. :pirate:

The gold tube assembly contains a spring which allows all the trigger functions to work properly. Since this AB is based on the 155, I'm assuming you have a similar set up. The spring and the entire assembly are not working at all. I can still use the trigger and adjust the amount of spray, but it's become a lot more frustrating to use.

It looks like I'll be going to Harbor Freight on Tuesday for a new one. :(

EDIT: I solved the problem. It works great now and it's nice and clean! :D
« Last Edit: March 28, 2009, 09:13:27 PM by robofreak »

June 12, 2009, 01:16:12 PM
Reply #330

walker

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Got a problem guys

My Aztek A320's needle isnt going far enough into the airbrush to let enough paint out (most i get if a super-super-fine mist, if anything at all). I know for a fact the nozzle (its brand new) and compressor (works fine with my piece of crap badger 250) are fine and are not the problem. It's almost like the pole on the inside of the airbrush isn't going far in engouh when I press the trigger. I've dis- and re-assembled the airbrush several times already so if I have to do so again that's not a problem. Thanks a lot for your help.
By the way, say hi to Chris!

June 12, 2009, 02:38:07 PM
Reply #331

Zircor

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Is it possible to add a tank onto a compressor?  I have a badger compressor (don't remember the model right off hand) and hate how noisy the damn thing is, and it runs constantly when I'm spraying.  If so, where can I find a suitable tank?

June 26, 2009, 09:56:54 AM
Reply #332

Zircor

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OK so I finally managed to get ahold of Badger support and they said the largest tank they would recommend for my compressor is a half gallon....   I guess I'm just going to spring for a compressor with a built-in tank and sell this one.  So, here's the question:  as badger doesn't have compressors with tanks (that I see), can someone recommend a suitable compressor for my apartment with a tank?  I have a Badger 175 airbrush.  Space is at a premium, but I would also like it to be relatively quiet.

July 10, 2009, 12:25:36 AM
Reply #333

Zircor

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Is there any ways to make compressors run quieter?  I like to do my modelling late into the night/early in the morning, but as I live in an apartment I tend to disturb my neighbors downstairs.  I have to go outside and airbrush on the balcony and the sound from the compressor echoes pretty bad.  I had turned it on inside and it didn't seem to make much noise, but I guess I was mistaken...  :)  maybe the carpet vs concrete floor had something to do with it?

July 10, 2009, 05:16:21 AM
Reply #334

chaos_theory

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I have the same kind of crappy badger compressor and  run into the same problems. It runs constantly and its loud... car engine loud. Its missing one of rubber feet but hell, I'm surprised its lasted 13 years.

My trick for quieter airbrushing: Use a few big towels folded thick, underneath and over top. Just buy a couple new ones to ensure you get a good, thick towel. Plus they are great when you spill or splatter some paint no more scrambling for clean up. Make sure your compressor can breathe. Not the best but will knock out a lot of the vibrations and muffle the sound some too.
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August 18, 2009, 08:26:44 AM
Reply #335

dp

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This might be stupid question. I have a COPIC Airbrush system in a storage locker *wonder's where exactly.* Before I begin, what could be a timely journey, does anyone have any experience in it's ability to put some decent paint down on any models? If there aren't any shoot downs of this idea I'd be happy to forage the system out and give it a trial run.

August 21, 2009, 02:16:42 AM
Reply #336

KingGainer

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I have a super insane question, well maybe not that insane.  I hear about people using innertubes as air tanks for their brushes, and I have something like that.  It's a refillable aerosol can that holds up to 90psi, for spraying paint or misting plants or whatever.  It's got a schrader valve on the side to fill it up, I want to couple my airbrush regulator onto that and use it as an air source.  How can I couple my regulator and a schrader valve?

September 02, 2009, 06:31:08 PM
Reply #337

FichtenFoo

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So about a month or so ago I broke down and ordered an Iwata HP-BH. I finally used it tonight painting my Sinanju... :twitch:

I LOVE IT! Not that my old airbrush was crap, but I'm simply amazed at the smoothness of the paint finish, the fine lines achieved, etc...

So I'm an Iwata convert I guess and my Badgers are relegated to primer duty. Actually I'll as always use my venerable Badger 150 for primer... my Badger 175 Crescendo however... I think she's going into the junk drawer. :sarcasm:

RickDTM recommended the A due to the clean sight line as opposed to the C, but I needed a bigger cup than the A. The B is perfect for my needs. Thanks Rick!
« Last Edit: September 02, 2009, 06:32:04 PM by FichtenFoo »

September 02, 2009, 07:18:08 PM
Reply #338

Zircor

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I'm sorry about that! I took the pic, but I forgot to post it. :doh:

Here's the problem. The needle keeps everything stable so it need to into the rear brass area first. From there, It's a matter of putting the trigger together properly. I also notice that there's another part of the brass assembly inside the AB, but it's difficult to remove.



I know it's been a while and you have probably already fixed this by know (at least I hope you have!), but I wanted to post my experience with the same issue on my Badger 175.  The brass part you have on the far right has a part that should slide in and out.  On my badger, it's shapped like a half circle.  Not the first time I did it, but maybe 3rd or 5th, it was "locked" like you were describing.  Turns out, the small brass piece that's a half-circle slides in and out of the big brass piece, and I guess when I put it back together the small piece got turned a bit and wouldn't slide in and out.  Problem solved, lesson learned, and sharing the experience with other noobs  :D



So....just read Foo's post about junking the 175...  and I have to agree.  I'm still in the process of painting my first two kits (waiting for the gaggle of cats to be out of the apartment so I can leave my crap out in peace!) but I really am not satisfied with the paint spray the 175 puts out.  I'm seriously eyeballing a gravity-feed of some sort (got tired of paint dripping everywhere when changing colors; usually have them in separate jars).  Thinking about getting a Paasche, maybe an Iwata...  I might just copy Foo, since he's pretty much my Gunpla role model  :D

September 02, 2009, 07:35:21 PM
Reply #339

FichtenFoo

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Don't get me wrong... The 175 isn't a bad brush... I've done everything you see on my site with the 175. However the 175 was starting to "deteriorate" and not work as well as it used to. So instead of pumping more $$$ into parts, I upgraded and the upgrade makes all the difference. I actually miss the easy pull-off back to clean the needle! Although the HP-BH is way easier to keep clean. I'm still trying to work out my paint mixing process for it since I'm used to occasionally mixing in my small AB cups. Can't do that on the built-in cup!

The 150 though is still a great brush. Very well made and I've been using it for my Alclads and primers. I've had the 150 since 1993 so you know it's gonna last!