{"id":4051,"date":"2010-11-19T16:59:40","date_gmt":"2010-11-19T21:59:40","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/fichtenfoo.net\/blog\/?p=4051"},"modified":"2010-11-19T16:59:40","modified_gmt":"2010-11-19T21:59:40","slug":"in-progress-%c2%bb-fish-sub-%c2%bb-man-the-harpoons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fichtenfoo.net\/blog\/in-progress-%c2%bb-fish-sub-%c2%bb-man-the-harpoons\/","title":{"rendered":"In Progress \u00c2\u00bb Fish Sub \u00c2\u00bb “Man the Harpoons!”"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Since the interior was done I used some 5-minute epoxy to attach the head. Before gluing it on I masked the portholes with some tape and liquid mask from the inside. Both will be easy to remove later. I also drilled a hole for the mounting rod (square tube) on the side. I filled the hole with epoxy putty and inserted a tube of the same size as that on the base making sure it was oriented correctly so the sub looks level. Later I’ll remove the tube from the sub (leaving a square hole) and sand that panel\/putty flush. Then I’ll be able to just slide the sub on and off the display base.<\/p>\n

I also painted the foundry plate and unit numbers from the PE fret. I painted them with a few layers of Mr. Metal Color Bronze and Copper. Once dry I buffed them with a soft cloth and toothbrush which really makes this buffable paint shine as seen below. The foundry plate and left-most numbers 1 and 2 have been buffed. You can really see the difference in the color buffing makes.<\/p>\n

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Once the buffing was done I lightly sanded with 2000 and 6000 grit sandpaper to remove the upper layers letting the PE brass show through. I love the result. Also keep in mind the numbers are maybe <\/em>10mm tall.<\/p>\n

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