Getting back into Gundams, a couple questions about panel lines and top coats.

[wreeper007]

So I have a couple of questions, and searching didn't turn up anything.

1. After watching some youtube videos, it turns out that I need to scribe the panel lines and what not a bit just to ensure that they turn out right, right?

2. I'm using tamiya paints, and I'm aware of the different top coats that can be made with ffa, but I have always had issues with it and the panel lining. I would use Model Masters enamels thinned and when I would try to wipe away the excess, it would eat straight through the top coat and paint. So what will be my best bet for the panel lines? I have, in town, access to hobby lobby (model masters enamels and acryl, ink, oils) and a 40k type shop (so gw washes).

3. while on the subject of panel lines, one thing I never could figure out is how long to wait before wiping away the excess wash. Do I need to wipe it away as soon as possible, do I wait until it's dry and then wipe away the excess? Somewhere in-between?

I think that is about it for now.

[tmajor]

1. Generally panel lines don't need to be rescribed unless you want them deeper or wider for a specific effect. Sometimes on the small scale kits they can be pretty shallow and difficult to highlight but thats just the scale.

2. Sometimes if you have an enamel based primer coat under an acrylic layer the thinner will penetrate through and breakdown the primer layer, floating the acrylic layers above. If this is happening in your case try an acrylic or lacquer based primer.

I've started using oils thinned with odorless turpenoid for panel lines like many on here recommend. The paint and thinner are not as aggressive as enamels and they are really flexible and easy to work with. I also think they look nicer and more natural. Just make sure you apply them over an gloss finish of FFA or some other acrylic based clear.

3. I'm no master a this part, as I'm still trying to figure it out myself. But I think its best to wait until the paint is dry or near dry. Unfortunately with oils this can be a while, but the bonus is the excess is easy to remove without to much work.

Hope this was helpful.

[wreeper007]

1. I will be mostly building HGUC's, so rescribing might be the right idea.

2. I plan to use the model master acryl primer. I have always liked the way it lays down. Plus, I can drive 2 mins and buy more. I will have to look longer at the oil wash. I tried it before but I might have done it right in the past.

3. I have yet to see an oil wash used in this fashion. I have seen it used as a filter and for discoloration, but never as a clean pin wash.

Thank you for the help!