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[Grail]

For instance, there are probably at least a few parts that are nearly identical on both the left and right side. And in general how do you keep track of so many parts?

If something is identical, with a kit like this,then it is probably identical and it doesn't matter what side you pick.

These kits all have a material sheet for reference so you can hold up a piece next to the orthographic view on paper if you need to as well. Pre-assembly and just general planning for your build are also good ways to familiarize yourself with a kit so you know what part goes where.
If you agree Mvm?
Also Matt is mighty, and very familiar with gundam kits. So he remembers all of his parts without effort. 

[mvm3897]

For kits that have a lot of pieces like this how do you keep straight which piece is which and the handedness? For instance, there are probably at least a few parts that are nearly identical on both the left and right side. And in general how do you keep track of so many parts?

Well by the time I am done cleaning, fitting and pinning, the will have been put together and taken apart a dozen times or so.  By then I am so familiar with the kit that the instructions are no longer needed, I just know where everything goes.  It also helps to build the kit in sub-assemblys.  Like on this one I will get the torso completed and then put it aside and them move on to the next area.

[MGmodeler]

Finally dowloading your videos Matt getting ready for my fist resin conversion kit.  Your vids have answered most of my questions but I may bug you later on.  MVM3897, Mtomczek and KYY94312 are all master builders in my books now!

[Grail]

MVM3897, Mtomczek and KYY94312 are all master builders

Agreed. Where is KYY!!? I lost him when heavy Armor Studio quit posting new stuff.

Still don't see any resin boiling videos Matt.. sigh.. I thought we talked about this ?    

[MGmodeler]

Were you talking about Hugh from Heavy Armor Studio form Toronto, Canada?  I haven't heard that name since the Child of Mecha days...  I guess they all moved on to different hobbies like I did for a few years.  Now I'm back since I have some spare time (yeah right  )  and now I'm seeing the new modelers that have such amazing skills like Matt.  Frick I think I've been building models for over 30+ years and I'm still not as good as some of these pros!

I've been watching Matt's videos and I'm learning some new things since I'm usually just building plastic and not resin kits.  Now we need to see how he paints so amazing!

[Grail]

I don't know who Hugh is Only Kyy, and I didn't know HAS was Canadian. Matt's painting is all smoke and mirror parlor tricks. He's a photographer. He just doctors all the footage        Just kidding Dude.

Are you doing a base for this MVM?, and are you going stock colors or custom? Plamo maybe?

[mvm3897]

Update time again.  I have had the whole weekend to myself so I have been very busy on this guy.  I think I spent 10 hours yesterday and 6 or so today on this sucker.  After countless hours of sanding priming and sanding and priming and san... well you get the idea, the torso and legs are ready for paint.  I used Rustolium primer for all of this.  I tried the Plamo primer but it's to dam thin.  I am not sure if I am not mixing it well but after 30 minutes of shaking and stirning it does not cover well.  I guess it would be good for a final surfacer on plastic.

Pics:

Parts being rinsed after 2 days in Purple Power

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Parts sanded with 400 wet dry sand paper after 1st round of primer

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And here we are today after final primer and buffing.  I use a 3M Ultra Fine sanding sponge to buff the final primer coat.

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Thanks for looking as always!
Here is the latest video on it also where I explain a bit of the process to get to this point.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6qjRs6w6hY

[Major Williams]

Looking good so far!

Odd that you are having trouble with the primer - it's quite possibly my favorite on the market.  Just gotta thin it properly and it comes out smooth and even on the first coat.    Check it:

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[mvm3897]

Well I have the Pre thinned stuff and it's like water.  I will try the unthinned when I place another order.

[Hunter Rose]

Looking awesome dude! Cant wait to see some paint on that beast! 

[JohnLogan]

I have to ask, what does buffing the primer do for you, compared to not buffing it?
Is it just the added flatness?

[mvm3897]

The buffing gets rid of the flatness and the dusty feel you get when using a spray can primer like Krylon or Rustolium.  They dry very very flat and that would come through in the preceding coats of paint.

[JohnLogan]

Thanks mvm3897

[Bhm]

Thanks for the video. It really helps out understanding the concepts you outline. Awesome stuff, keep up the good work!

[mvm3897]

Well finally time for an update.  I have been busy the past week laying paint down.  I am using the same blue I did on my Sinanju last year.  I think it well really give a sense of weight to this monster.  The shading isn't as heavy as I did on the Sinanju but it's still there and as usual once the final flat coat is applied it will really pop.

All the metallics are Mr. Colors Metallics and are a combo of Super Titanium, Super Stainless Steel, Silver, Steel and then I used some clear smoke here and there for another tone.  The blues is clear blue over silver and the red is clear red over silver.

For the fade job I simply did all my shading as usual.  Next I used PlamoColor Light Grey as a primer so the blue would be cut a bit.  I then mixed 50/50 PlamoColor Pure White and Off white and proceeded to paint and blend it all together.  On my next video I will demonstrate this.  The key is the thinning.  The paint needs to be thinned more than usual to get the smooth gradient. 

There is a ton of taping and I have had some lifting as you will see.  This could be several things.  Dirty parts, dust, or the paint was not cured all the way.  The part in the pick was probably due to the paint not being cured.  I tried to mask after a few hours of drying but looks like I should have waited 24 hours.  This is the 2nd part with lifting issues but it only goes down to the primer which at least tells me the resin was cleaned and prepped properly.



Here are some pics.

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OUCH!!!!!

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There you go.  I have a huge paint order coming in hopefully tomorrow.  I went through about 400 ml of thinner over the past 4 days to give you an idea of how much paint I am using so far.  I will also have a ton of detail hand painting to do but so far it's looking good.  I just hope I don't have any more lifting issues.

Thanks for looking.

[Major Williams]

Lame about the paint lifting, but I'm loving the colors so far my friend!  Your paint jobs are always superb.  Can't wait to see those details painted!

[nico]

Mr metallic colors looks great. I like your custom grey on torso. I am currently facing the same issue with paint on my kit. Each part of those monsters are consuming as paint as a MG.
Can't wait to see what's coming next.

[MGmodeler]

Ouch!!!  That paint chipping must have made you yell !@#$%
Too bad, it looks perfect otherwise but nothing a remask and paint job won’t fix.

The rest of your metallic’s look amazing.  Must try some of that Mr. Metallic as all I’ve been using so far is Alclad. 

Getting close to decaling.  My favorite part!!!

[Ezechiel]

Beautiful blue!
I feel your pain for the taping horror...

[Sharkdog]

That's one hella-smooth paintjob right there man, lookin' good. Definitely too bad about the chipping, but that should be an easy fix right?

I don't know if I'm a fan of the blue/white gradients, but I'd have to see it on the completed model to really decide that :)