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Author Topic: Clear Resin  (Read 857 times)
mvm3897
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« on: September 10, 2010, 05:52:08 PM »

Hey guys,

I just got the 1/32 FSS LED Bust and I have a question on how to polish up the clear resin parts.  Anyone have a tutorial or a link they can point me to on the technique to shine up clear resin?
Here is the kit in case you do not know what I am talking about.  https://www.e2046.com/product.php?products_id=9169
Thanks
Matt
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SNIFFING RESIN DUST IS FUN!!!!!!



Kylew
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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2010, 06:26:20 PM »

I'd suggest a polishing compound after very high grit sandpaper, or a heavy coat of clear gloss followed by some fine rubbing compound. You should be able to get a nice deep finish.
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mtomczek
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« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2010, 08:38:02 PM »

Honestly the best thing to do is spray them with Mr. Metal Primer.

You will be amazed at how shiny and clear they will turn out just by giving it a coat. Even better is to sand it super super smooth and then spray a coat of the Mr. Metal Primer. :)
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mvm3897
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2010, 08:55:52 PM »

Honestly the best thing to do is spray them with Mr. Metal Primer.

You will be amazed at how shiny and clear they will turn out just by giving it a coat. Even better is to sand it super super smooth and then spray a coat of the Mr. Metal Primer. :)

Cool.  I think I will give that a try.  I have heard of people sanding or polishing starting with 600 grit paper all the way up to 12,000.  Honestly thats just to much dam sanding.  How are you thinning your Mr. Metal primer Matt.  i just kind of thin it until it goes throgh the brush for metal parts.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2010, 08:57:03 PM by mvm3897 » Logged

SNIFFING RESIN DUST IS FUN!!!!!!
mtomczek
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« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2010, 12:43:27 AM »

Honestly the best thing to do is spray them with Mr. Metal Primer.

You will be amazed at how shiny and clear they will turn out just by giving it a coat. Even better is to sand it super super smooth and then spray a coat of the Mr. Metal Primer. :)

Cool.  I think I will give that a try.  I have heard of people sanding or polishing starting with 600 grit paper all the way up to 12,000.  Honestly thats just to much dam sanding.  How are you thinning your Mr. Metal primer Matt.  i just kind of thin it until it goes throgh the brush for metal parts.

I spray it out of the spray cans, I do not airbrush mine.
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fudoc
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« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2011, 08:12:22 AM »

To piggyback off this topic...does anyone have experience with mr. super clear uv cut? I have some clear armor kits that are showing signs of yellowing and wanted to prevent it. Does it have to be reapplied occasionally? Later when I'm ready to paint do I have to remove it to paint or just paint over it?

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mtomczek
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« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2011, 12:19:55 PM »

To piggyback off this topic...does anyone have experience with mr. super clear uv cut? I have some clear armor kits that are showing signs of yellowing and wanted to prevent it. Does it have to be reapplied occasionally? Later when I'm ready to paint do I have to remove it to paint or just paint over it?



UV Cut is only to protect your surfaces from the sun, not yellowing from age/exposure to air.

You would be fine using just the regular Gloss Super Clear, or Mr. Metal Primer.  You shouldn't have to reapply anything, but if you are going to paint over the clear parts in the future I would suggest waiting until you paint. No need to waste the clear if you are just going to cover it.
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fudoc
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« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2011, 10:51:59 PM »

If I'm understanding correctly...your saying the UV cut protects from UV rays but the resin may still yellow from age/exposure to air? So there's inherently no real solution to preventing this?

I wonder if I clear the parts and then apply car waxes if this would do the trick. I store my kits in a cool, dark, and dry environment but some still turn yellow. This is especially true with the cheap quality resin G-system uses...Volks on the other hand is not so bad.

I appreciate your help mtomzcek.


[/quote]

UV Cut is only to protect your surfaces from the sun, not yellowing from age/exposure to air.

You would be fine using just the regular Gloss Super Clear, or Mr. Metal Primer.  You shouldn't have to reapply anything, but if you are going to paint over the clear parts in the future I would suggest waiting until you paint. No need to waste the clear if you are just going to cover it.
[/quote]
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mtomczek
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« Reply #8 on: January 28, 2011, 12:34:57 AM »

Not entirely, I am more saying that using the UV Cut version isn't going to be any different then using the normal Mr. Super Clear. Since your parts aren't going to be out in the sun. You would just be wasting the money on the more expensive UV Cut.

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