MGX4 Challenge

[FichtenFoo]

Thanks. Did you use the regular Mr. Color iron or the Super Iron? I found the regular, while nice and dark isn't shaney and mars easily.

[mvm3897]

Regular iron.  I know how fragile it is.  I used some on my 1/72 Barzam that I am working on and found that if it gets rub it shines up, which can be good if you want that effect.  So on the RX-78 2.0 I made sure not to touch the parts until I got a gloss coat on them. 

[FichtenFoo]

You said your BD was done? Where's the pics!?

Zaku: Flat coat applied. Tomorrow I need to paint a few parts in metal that I was waiting on like the tubes for the conduit pipe-bits and some rings around the bazooka.

[mvm3897]

Havn't had time to take any yet.  I have been working like crazy on RX-78 2.0 before I go out of town for a week.  I will take some when I get back.

[FichtenFoo]

I still think I might get the Zaku done today, but I ran into a few issues today. First off, as cool as the new tube mechanism looks, it's just as painful as the old one. The fit on the inner tube part is VERY tight and the part is polycap material so paint doesn't stick. I've had to replace them with springs which has caused me to modify the kit a bit AFTER painting which is dangerous. So far so good though.

The other issue is that while building the head I realized that I never painted the red "mouth" piece which meant I lost it. Luckily I found it under my Elliptical. It's now primed and will be painted later. That'll be the part that holds me up if anything from completing it today. No problem though as Tuesday was my original thought anyway.

I primed the Crossbone last night and sorted the primed parts eariler. The kit will be easy to paint except for the Peacock Smasher. 24 parts need masking there.

[tetsujin]

I still think I might get the Zaku done today, but I ran into a few issues today. First off, as cool as the new tube mechanism looks, it's just as painful as the old one. The fit on the inner tube part is VERY tight and the part is polycap material so paint doesn't stick. I've had to replace them with springs which has caused me to modify the kit a bit AFTER painting which is dangerous. So far so good though.

Two things really bug me about those parts:

First, all the beads are molded crooked.  The center hole isn't centered within the cuff, particularly on the parts molded around the rubber part.
Second, the leg beads go over springs instead of rubber parts, which means they're not kept in alignment.  So that thinly-veiled parting line "detail" winds up all over the place unless the beads are carefully realigned before any shooting.

Combine the two and the effects compound - not only do you wind up with the leg cable seams crooked, but the leg cable itself as well (due to the off-center beads being turned differently)

I really think the old system was easier to deal with. String your beads onto a piece of wire and you could sand 'em, and paint 'em and they'd be ready to run onto the spring.

[FichtenFoo]

The only thing I really liked about these beads was the ability to sand each strand at once as opposed to sanding the individual beads and flinging them everywhere. At this point I wish I had sanded the detail off of them, which was an option I was considering early on in the build. Then no worries about alignment. My plan is to white-glue them into position on the strands to keep them from moving. Hopefully that'll do the trick. Next time though, I'll sand away the detail.

My client sent me a box of four-ish 2.0 Zakus him and a friend had started for conversions. There's at least 2 complete ones and parts to make probably one more. I have a snapped Zaku I kit  I got from someone else in a trade so I'll be making a Zaku I 2.0 which will be wonderfully bead-free.

[tetsujin]

The only thing I really liked about these beads was the ability to sand each strand at once as opposed to sanding the individual beads and flinging them everywhere. At this point I wish I had sanded the detail off of them, which was an option I was considering early on in the build. Then no worries about alignment. My plan is to white-glue them into position on the strands to keep them from moving. Hopefully that'll do the trick. Next time though, I'll sand away the detail.

You can sand the beads all at once with the old kits, too - just a matter of stringing them onto something rigid...

I don't have my Zaku v2.0 handy, but IIRC I found the alignment issue bad enough on the leg cables that, even with the detail sanded off, beads turned the wrong way were noticeable.  I'd been thinking of trying to replace them with Kotobukiya Mobile Pipe parts, but those wouldn't fit the kit springs I believe...

[FichtenFoo]

I've used the pipes from Ako with good results on the Sinanju and would definitely use them again. Woulda used them this time had I known!

Zaku is done though so pics soon.

[FichtenFoo]

Crossbone is coming along. Internals are painted as are the yellow and white parts.

I keep thinking about Boba Fett while building this thing since it's got hidden weapons coming out of everywhere.

[FichtenFoo]

Matt: A heads-up regarding the Mr. Color Metallic Blue... I got some of that and the metallic red the other day. I tested the red and thinned it as much as I normally would with Mr. Leveling Thinner. It sputtered and spider-webbed from my AB. I needed to almost over-thin it to get it to work right. So make sure you test it on scrap first before putting it to the actual model to avoid this issue.

Also, your decals went out today instead of Saturday. Damn insufficient postage

[mvm3897]

Thanks for the heads up.  I am aware if this problem.  I find that with most of the metallics a ratio of 30%-40% paint to 70%-60% thinner is needed sometimes more.  I just keep thinning till it goes through the airbrush.

Thanks for the heads up on the decals as well.  The Blue Astray is the next on my list after the RX-78 2.0.  I have all the parts painted and ready for panel lines on it.  Then on to decals and top coat.  I trying something new for me.  I am leaving the frame glossy along with the metal thrusters I added and using a flat top coat for the armor.  I usualy just do one or the other.  But I think it will be nice on this kit.

[FichtenFoo]

Cool. Variation in sheen is fun and more eye catching. What would be great is if there were clear Matte or Gloss dry transfers. That'd look slick depending on the application (often looks good in print), but a biotch to photograph.

[FichtenFoo]

I just did my "good" tests on the Mr. Color Metallic Red.

Over a white primer base:
Kinda pinkish. Slightly metallic but not very, and not a great color for my usual needs.

Over Super Fine Silver:
More metallic, darker. Almost like a candy coat, but with less work so good for small apps where needed. Applying clear red over it could only make it better.

Mixed with Super Fine Silver, sprayed over white:
Neat color, still not what I'm looking for. Metallic mauve.

Over Gray Primer Base:
Looks like metal painted red. Very bland and drab. Reminds me of an old firetruck or grill.

I assume this will be the same for the blue so you might want to try a silver or chrome base-coat to make it really pop.

[Zircor]

I just did my "good" tests on the Mr. Color Metallic Red.

Over a white primer base:
Kinda pinkish. Slightly metallic but not very, and not a great color for my usual needs.

Over Super Fine Silver:
More metallic, darker. Almost like a candy coat, but with less work so good for small apps where needed. Applying clear red over it could only make it better.

Mixed with Super Fine Silver, sprayed over white:
Neat color, still not what I'm looking for. Metallic mauve.

Over Gray Primer Base:
Looks like metal painted red. Very bland and drab. Reminds me of an old firetruck or grill.

I assume this will be the same for the blue so you might want to try a silver or chrome base-coat to make it really pop.

Have you tried on a gloss black basecoat?  Just asking because I know a lot of the metallics say to use this to get the best effect.  Just wondering what it would look like.

[FichtenFoo]

Red's an odd color over darker bases though which is why that didn't even occur to me to try. My concern would be that it just ends up looking like Metallic Maroon. I might try it anyway though.

[FichtenFoo]

Yikes... So the Crossbone is going together rather easily. I finished painting it today (very dark blue, yellow-orange, med blue, and white was all I needed for the body parts), gave it a coat of Future to seal it fr the panel lines and ended up having time to do the panel lines and give it the pre-decal gloss coat. So tomorrow I start decals and if all goes well this should be done some time this weekend.

And that'll make the 4 needed for the challenge! I still plan to do the GN-X next and to try and complete it before the challenge deadline. However after seeing Kieta's latest work on his I may take a little more time and scribe in some panel lines in addition to what I already had planned color scheme wise.

[mvm3897]

Red's an odd color over darker bases though which is why that didn't even occur to me to try. My concern would be that it just ends up looking like Metallic Maroon. I might try it anyway though.

Red is one of those colors that just doesn't have a lot of pigment no matter the mnufacture or type of paint.  When I was in the business of restoring 55-57 Thunderbirds,  Red was always a bitch usually taking between 6-8 coats of paint rather than the usual 3-4 coats.  This is true with or model paints as well.  I good trick is to mix some of your base color in with your grey or whit primer.  It will help with its hiding power a ton.  Give it a try.  Or if your plastic is red don't prime ay all.  That's what I did with my RX-78 2.0.

[mvm3897]

Just finished the decals on the RX-78 2.0.  I will try to get them sealed tonight with Super clear so I can panel line tomorrow or Monday.  Depends on family things though.

[FichtenFoo]

My main part of the challenge is done! All the rest is gravy. Posted the Xbone in the gallery.

GN-X is cut/sanded, skewered, primed, and sorted for painting. I keep changing my mind, but I think I may do this one in a slightly violet red color.