Author Topic: Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions  (Read 147357 times)

July 07, 2006, 08:09:07 PM
Reply #80

FichtenFoo

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Quote from: "babychu"
Is this a good air brush to start with making Gundam model, IWATA Eclipse HP - BCS


It's a better airbrush than I have... so yes!

July 07, 2006, 09:01:50 PM
Reply #81

bean

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I just got a badger 150 set that had pretty much everything but a needle (there's a needle in the airbrush but the other needle that comes with it was missing).  I guess my question is this: how can you tell what needle goes with what head? AND how do you tell the size of the head and needle? are there markings of some sort?

July 08, 2006, 05:47:40 AM
Reply #82

FichtenFoo

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Quote from: "bean"
I just got a badger 150 set that had pretty much everything but a needle (there's a needle in the airbrush but the other needle that comes with it was missing).  I guess my question is this: how can you tell what needle goes with what head? AND how do you tell the size of the head and needle? are there markings of some sort?


It's the shape for one, but for the 175, there's notches on the back of the needle. 1 - 3 notches. 2 being medium and 1 being either fine or large, can't remember.

July 08, 2006, 09:48:59 AM
Reply #83

bean

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awesome, thanks.  What about the heads?

July 08, 2006, 10:07:01 AM
Reply #84

FichtenFoo

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Fine and Large have an L and F marked on them. Medium has nothing.

http://www.badger-airbrush.com

July 08, 2006, 10:49:49 AM
Reply #85

bean

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awesome, thanks for the quick reply.  really appreciate it.  Keep up the good work!

July 08, 2006, 03:33:14 PM
Reply #86

jubjub64

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Quote

Is this a good air brush to start with making Gundam model, IWATA Eclipse HP - BCS



I have that brush, it will fit your model painting needs just fine.  But if you can, I would get a gravity feed airbrush like the HP-BC.  If you stick with the HP-BCS I would get alot of small (I think 4 ounces) airbrush bottles.
My other car is a 90-foot robot.

July 12, 2006, 09:27:50 AM
Reply #87

hky

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Hi!

Im new to this board and id like to introduce myself.

My name is Thomas and I come from Sweden, im new to painting with an AB.

I just got myself an aztek A4709 dual action, maybe not the wisest choice after reading through countless of posts on what ppl use, but then again I have nothing to refer to as Ive never used an AB before and being a noob I need to start somewhere.

So being a padawan learner my questions are many, but reading through this forum I got many answers answered.

Id like to ask you, since the A4709 is mostly made of plastic is there any danger in using isopropyl alcohol 100% for thinning colors and for cleaning the AB? I wouldnt want the AB to melt =D

Concerning the compressor I got myself a Werther X1 also a budget one I think cuz it lacks a pressure gauge, it can do 6bar 86 psi, air capacity about 20 l/min, my question is since I cant monitor the pressure do I just go on "how it feels"?

July 12, 2006, 09:40:56 AM
Reply #88

FichtenFoo

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Alcohol will not melt the plastic, but Lacquers may so avoid paints like Alclad and Mr. Color.

As for the compressor, it may bot come with a pressure regulator, but you can purchase one at a hardware store and attach it to your compressor. You may beed some adaptor parts to make it fit.

July 12, 2006, 09:49:33 AM
Reply #89

hky

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many thanks for the quick reply.

Laquers like the ones you mentioned, havent seen those brands around but Humbrol enamel is quite popular thats a laquer right?

July 12, 2006, 09:59:43 AM
Reply #90

FichtenFoo

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That's an enamel so it would use an enamel thinner. Not sure how that would affect your AB. Perhaps add a drop of enamel thinner to the outter casing of your AB to see if it marrs the surface.

July 17, 2006, 07:17:23 AM
Reply #91

pu_rplecow

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Anyone has more than one airbrush with different sized tips? I use a sparmax DH-102 and i find it great because it manages such fine work. The only problem is that the cup is pretty small and it jams real often when I spray Mr Surfacer with it. I had this really bad experience when a particle of primer got stuck real good in the tip. Too a strand of wire to push it out. I never used bottled primer again.

Just wondering if anyone would actually reccommend getting a bigger tip like 0.3mm or 0.5mm. or would it be a negligible difference for the 0.3mm? Another thing is I don't see replacement needles and tips for sparmax airbrushes. I know they are ripoffs of some other brand so would it be possible to use other parts to replace the now 0.2mm tip with a 0.3mm?
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I'm trying to decrease my talk : model ratio.
Less talk more model!

July 17, 2006, 07:19:03 AM
Reply #92

FichtenFoo

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THey make mesh "filters" for paints like that. Basically you put it over the tube in a jar. I suppose this only wotks for syphon-feed brushes though that can use a bottle.

July 17, 2006, 02:50:38 PM
Reply #93

maxwinamp

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Quote from: "pu_rplecow"
Anyone has more than one airbrush with different sized tips? I use a sparmax DH-102 and i find it great because it manages such fine work. The only problem is that the cup is pretty small and it jams real often when I spray Mr Surfacer with it. I had this really bad experience when a particle of primer got stuck real good in the tip. Too a strand of wire to push it out. I never used bottled primer again.

Just wondering if anyone would actually reccommend getting a bigger tip like 0.3mm or 0.5mm. or would it be a negligible difference for the 0.3mm? Another thing is I don't see replacement needles and tips for sparmax airbrushes. I know they are ripoffs of some other brand so would it be possible to use other parts to replace the now 0.2mm tip with a 0.3mm?


I use procon 0.2mm for paint.
And Paasche 0.5mm (bottom feed Double Action) for Primer and metallic paint.
(Paasche can use different paasche nozzle size with paaschedifferent needles, I bought a 0.3mm nozzle and needle separately)

For sparmax, I doubt the sizes can be changed.

July 17, 2006, 06:08:24 PM
Reply #94

ttmnky

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Hey, sorry to get off on the wrong foot with everyone with my first post...

I've readjusted my airbrush so that the needle sticks as far out as possible without pulling the trigger, and draws back a slight bit after pulling. Is that good?

Also, I was wondering whether all airbrush needles were interchangeable. For example, Could I stick a Badger brand needle into a Paasche brand airbrush?

Sorry for my nooby questions.

A pic of my airbrush

http://airbrushcity.com/1102.htm

Last thing is, the kit came with a metal "colour cup", but when attached to the airbrush, it seems incredibly awkward... Does anyone know hwo it works, or has anyone used a similar metal cup before?

Thanks, and again, sorry

July 18, 2006, 12:18:08 AM
Reply #95

pu_rplecow

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I think you got it right about the needle thing, should be all the way in front.

Quote from: "ttmnky"
Also, I was wondering whether all airbrush needles were interchangeable. For example, Could I stick a Badger brand needle into a Paasche brand airbrush?

.
.

Last thing is, the kit came with a metal "colour cup", but when attached to the airbrush, it seems incredibly awkward... Does anyone know hwo it works, or has anyone used a similar metal cup before?

Thanks, and again, sorry


I think needles can be used interchangeably (as in, it is physically possible) if the same size, but i doubt it would perform anything like if you were using the original brand.

The colour cup is weird.. but its not uncommon. Its for people who do art on t shirts or canvas/paper and need to see the surface. A top fed airbrush would sort of block the view. To use it you should just dump the paint in like you would any other (I think..). Here's some helpful videos about gundam modelling.

One more thing, it may seem really silly but this picture has solved an eternal mystery for me. I always wondered where the square end of the airbrush holder should go!! Thanks alot! haha..
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I'm trying to decrease my talk : model ratio.
Less talk more model!

July 18, 2006, 09:24:51 PM
Reply #96

nightbringer

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A little maintenance question.

I have a gravity-fed dual action Delta airbrush (not sure on further details), which recently has had the trigger stuck. Whenever I release the trigger, the AB still continues to spray for about 5-10 seconds afterwards, before it releases. Also, when I push down, I find that I have a bit more resistance than I used to have when I first bought the airbrush.
I encountered this problem before, taking it apart and running thinner through the little button that lets air in seemed to temporarily remedy the problem.

Is it just paint clogging up the trigger button thingy inside the barrel that lets air into the AB?
If so, how do I clean it?
ightbringer360.blogspot.com

July 18, 2006, 11:47:32 PM
Reply #97

pu_rplecow

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Sigh.. i have the same problem with mine. Gets sticky and stuck only a while after cleaning it up properly(taking it completely apart). I tried lubricating the rubber seal that but it doesn't last long. Anyone notice the same thing?

Anyway for those feeling like your compressor is not giving you the same output anymore, giving your airbrush a thourogh clean might do the job. Mine was at 15psi max. After cleaning  25psi max. So there.. I guess its because the airways were dirty.
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I'm trying to decrease my talk : model ratio.
Less talk more model!

July 19, 2006, 05:12:39 AM
Reply #98

FichtenFoo

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Follow the instruction manual and take your airbrush completely apart. Mine was doing that as well until I cleaned it out really well. Use good ventilation and some lacquer thinner with q-tips. Avoid the plastic or rubber parts though ;-)

July 20, 2006, 05:22:24 AM
Reply #99

nightbringer

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Lacquer thinner? So acrylic/enamel thinner won't do?
ightbringer360.blogspot.com