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Author Topic: Formula 409 and Stripping Models  (Read 14700 times)
gamerabaenre
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« Reply #20 on: October 04, 2006, 01:01:44 PM »

Using a towel and wetting it with lacquer thinner should give the best control.  Wiping the thinner wet towel across the part should be the safest way.  A couple of swipes should be enough to clean the primer off the part.
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Captain Obvious
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« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2006, 07:16:11 PM »

Well damn, disaster.  The thinner took off the primer no problem, but it also melted the plastic underneath, wiping out a lot of the detail, and filling the panel lines with goo.  I don't know if it was too much pressure, or too much thinner on the rag, but all I got was a gooey mess, and when that came off, so did the plastic.  I'm pretty bummed, it's beyond my skill to fix.  I hope I can get a replacement without having to go through R10 again (takes forever).  Anyone out there have a GM Kai (or maybe just the head) they want to get rid of?   :cry:

For anyone trying this approach for the first time, I wouldn't recomend it for complex pieces.
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FichtenFoo
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« Reply #22 on: October 04, 2006, 07:43:10 PM »

That's what I feared would happen. Let that be a lesson about lacquer on plastic. LOL I've melted stretched plastic sprue in lacquer on purpose for weld seams on my Krote.
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gamerabaenre
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« Reply #23 on: October 04, 2006, 08:04:47 PM »

Hmm.. I've never had a problem with wiping away lacquer based paint/primer off my bandai plastic parts.  And I've done this on multiple occasions.  I usually don't have enough thinner on the towel that the actual thinner transfers onto the parts.  Having the towel just damp and lightly running it across the part.  I use the same method when I'm doing washes and cleaning up with enamel thinner.

I feel horrible.  This is the first time(to my knowledge), that a suggestion of mine has f-ed up someone's work.  Really sorry man.
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Captain Obvious
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« Reply #24 on: October 04, 2006, 08:19:52 PM »

Don't worry about it, I'm sure the fault was with my technique.  But if you know anyone with a spare GM Kai head or kit, send em my way. :wink:
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« Reply #25 on: October 05, 2006, 01:15:32 AM »

I guess laquer has really different strengths. If you use gunze laquer thinner (mr colour thinner) theres no way if would melt the plastic.. I've ruined a piece by soaking it in industrial laquer thinner.. that was really bad. Had totally no knowledge of it. Well, should have tested it out first on something...

major: maybe you could really try to fix it.. you never know what skill you have until you really try.  Milliput and scribing project!
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gamerabaenre
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« Reply #26 on: November 03, 2006, 01:49:37 AM »

Ok, here's a little experiment preformed by a member at Hobbyfanatics with regards to IP plastic and various liquids one my use to strip paint.  
http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=9985
Interesting that I would think Mr Color thinner, a lacquer/solvent based thinner would eat the plastic, but it's not the case.  Perhaps the local hardware store thinner is THAT much stronger.  I use both thinners, (mr color thinner and hardware bought thinner) although I mainly used the hardware store version for airbrush clean up and the like.  I think I confused my use of Mr Color to strip small areas of paint off injection plastic as opposed to Hardware store lacquer thinner.

The thread is definitely worth looking at.
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sandlegs
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« Reply #27 on: November 20, 2006, 07:36:42 AM »

If I use purple stuff/Castrol Super Clean to strip my models do I dilute the stuff or go at it straight out of the bottle?
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Major Blah
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« Reply #28 on: November 20, 2006, 07:41:33 AM »

I use it straight from the bottle.  Wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself though.
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Whale Gamer
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« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2006, 03:52:01 PM »

This chrome stripping got me thinking the other day; exactly what kind of paint is on these chrome colored pieces that allows them to be stripped using these cleaning solutions?
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fulcy
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« Reply #30 on: December 21, 2006, 04:41:21 PM »

It's not paint, it's an electro-plating process.  Apparently these cleaners are caustic enough to remove this electro plating from the plastic...
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Zaft
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« Reply #31 on: December 26, 2006, 07:40:02 AM »

Has anyone used turps substitute to strip models before? Curious as to how this reacts with the plastic and acrylic based spraypaints.
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maxwinamp
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« Reply #32 on: January 03, 2007, 11:30:22 PM »

This question have been asked numerous time..

SO, here's a tutorial I write up with PICS :)

To remove lacqure based coats:
IMPORTANT: Please use gloves when handling/ scubbing the kit.

How to remove paint from your model kit]
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Ezechiel
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« Reply #33 on: January 04, 2007, 01:54:28 AM »

Thanks Max, very much appreciated!
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Zoccoli
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« Reply #34 on: February 19, 2007, 10:49:12 AM »

I'm trying to strip a kit that I sprayed with Testors spray enamels about a year ago, and 409 doesn't seem to be strong enough to dissolve it. What should my next step be in order to increase solvent power without damaging the plastic? Castrol Super Clean? I know that lacquer thinner will work, but I am neither brave enough nor foolish enough to use it for this.  Tongue
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Mindless
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« Reply #35 on: February 19, 2007, 11:57:17 AM »

Tried break fluid? (from a car or motorcycle)

From my experience, it's been able to remove pretty much anything that's stuck on a surface. Sure, it takes a while depending on how well the paint has adhered to the surface.

Might be a bit far fetched though unless you're a cars / bikes type of person and have a bottle standing around somewhere in your house / garage.
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oteebzo
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« Reply #36 on: February 19, 2007, 07:19:24 PM »

Quote from: "Mindless"
Tried break fluid? (from a car or motorcycle).


The STP line work great I have used this before . With great results.

http://www.stp.com/func_hd_brake.html
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GK
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« Reply #37 on: March 12, 2007, 01:37:38 PM »

I have had success removing spray paint from PVC and polycarbonate with a product call "Adhesive Remover". Its an orange liquid that comes in a clear bottle, it has a little padded squeeze applicator and an orange cap with a spatula shape (to help peel off stickers). It's safe on plastic, glass, wood, carpet, metal, etc. and it works really well at removing paint. Just rub it on and let it sit for a few seconds, then scrub the paint off. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't tried it. I don't know if its available outside the US or not.
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Zoccoli
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« Reply #38 on: March 12, 2007, 09:34:14 PM »

Regarding stripping that spray enamel, I actually ended up using a substance that I've seen some people use before called "Purple Power." After about a day in that, the paint came right off with only a little scrubbing. Some of it got inside my gloves though, so the top layer of my skin came right off the next day as well.  DOH!
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Haseo
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« Reply #39 on: March 26, 2007, 03:11:16 PM »

im not sure if you heard of it or not but i found out if you spray tamiya clear on it then wipe it with tissue or something it will come off right away
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