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Author Topic: MIG washes and filters  (Read 2282 times)
qc
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« on: December 21, 2007, 06:14:48 AM »

I've seen use of the Mig's filters in his FAQ and had a real woody to try them out..but was very difficult to find.  As a christmas wish, i walked into my LHS and found they had the Mig washes (not filters).  I call the local tank boy over and start quizzing him.

What the true diff between the filters and washes?
Can i use them "basically" interchangabley?
Whats the preferred application method?
The washes (at the LHS) were ~$20? and the filters (now in stock at Squadron) are ~$30 and are half the quantity....whats the big difference here?

The tank fella told me there was another worker of the LHS trying all the Mig material (both filter and wash) out (at home) and gave me his ph.number...I'll give him a little time to play, then quiz him.

In the meantime...does anyone here have experience with these items...or heard any info about the above questions?

Many thanks.
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makalaka
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« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2008, 07:02:32 AM »

Did you ever find out anything from your LHS?
I'm a bit curious about these mig washes and filters.
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deathworld_Dragon
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« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2008, 11:24:49 PM »

 Hi guys...
I was at a model expo a saw all sorts of awesome weathered tanks and war machines from rust to snow. Besides dry brushing paints and the Tamiya make up set I came across a bottle of Europe dust pigments and a basic guide catalog...

The bloke selling me this said it is the best weathering product on the market and to learn the full abilities of it I had to buy a $200 book or a set of DVD's $30 per volume. He also said it is best when used with its own Acrylic Resin, Pigment Fixer and Thinner for Washes to make weathering effects, washes or mud...

http://www.migproductions.com/

I have not fully explored the website or finished the catalog but want to know if anyone here has tried it and if it is really as good as they say. Thanks guys...
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Ezechiel
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2008, 01:36:51 AM »

Yeah Mike makes an extensive use of MIG's pigments:
http://www.fichtenfoo.com/02GiantRobots/02b-JGSDFType74-paint.htm
Most of his recent wip feature them. Check them out.
200$ for the book? This one?
http://fichtenfoo.com/forum/index.php?topic=875.0
http://www.amazon.com/Q-Frequently-Questions-Techniques-Modelling/dp/849652762X/ref=pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1215505748&sr=8-1
Yeah right...
And the dvd is only 1O€ in Europe.
Check the wips to see what to use.
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deathworld_Dragon
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« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2008, 02:51:03 AM »

Thanks for the info...
The reason why the book cost so much at my local model expo because I live far from Europe and the dude selling my the book is probly a cheet skate. Mike's stuff looks great and all the details are here for me to try it out. Thanks again for the help...
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FichtenFoo
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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2008, 07:34:04 AM »

Yeah, check out most of my armor/MaK/scratchbuild/UC Hardgraph wips and you'll find some pigment stuff. That book is AWESOME so if you got it you paid to much but you'll appreciate it none the less.
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makalaka
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« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2008, 08:46:26 AM »

also if your interested in the DVD vol.1 "The pigments" is available from http://www.michtoy.com/ for around $20 But its in pal format so if you do buy it make sure your dvd player supports pal. They also sell all the pigments and paints that Mig makes but there overpriced. The best thing to do is wait for one of there sales. I think I'll get the book myself. Last time I checked, it was 80 bucks from amazon but now that its cheaper its sold out...

here's their MIG page.
http://www.michtoy.com/MTSCnewSite/supplies_folder/Mig_pigments/mig_pigments.html
« Last Edit: July 11, 2008, 08:52:14 AM by makalaka » Logged
mvm3897
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« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2010, 11:43:24 AM »

Are the MIG Filters OK to use on top of Future?  I was think I wanted to try to use some of my new MIG Filters for panel lines?  Hope someone finds this.  Been a while since this post has been repiled to.  Unsure
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FichtenFoo
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« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2010, 01:33:34 PM »

They're fine on top of FFA. The only thing I've had issues with regarding the filters and their other thinner-based products is that it makes Bandai plastic brittle. I've had a couple reactions on other pressure-fit areas on other brand kits, but it makes the Bandai stuff almost crumble.

The alternative is using the 502 Abt. oils and odorless turpenoid. I use that a lot for washes and filters.
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mvm3897
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« Reply #9 on: February 03, 2010, 02:40:07 PM »

AHHH!!!  I might use some of my new oils instead.  How long do you recommend I let the Future cure before using any of the filters/washes from MIG.  And one more question, if I do use the oils how ling do I need to let them dry before applying my topcoat?  Thanks in advance.  I have all this new MIG stuff and eager to use it.

Matt
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FichtenFoo
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« Reply #10 on: February 03, 2010, 04:16:57 PM »

Well... I'd wait 6-8 hours to let the FFA cure. As for the oils... it depends... a day or 5 depending on heat, humidity, thickness, etc....

Put some on an unnoticible area to rub with your finger when you think it's dry. If it comes up, wait longer. Oils are... random... that way.
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mvm3897
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« Reply #11 on: February 03, 2010, 04:28:31 PM »

Thanks Foo!!
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mvm3897
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« Reply #12 on: August 24, 2010, 09:21:17 AM »

Another question for anyone watching!!!  Should washes/filters be used on a gloss or flat surface?  On my The-O I think I want to try one of my MIG Washes that I have to bring out the panel lines and such but never doing a wash or filter I was curious on what type of surface to use them on and at what point in the painting process should a wash/filter be used?

Thanks.
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FichtenFoo
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« Reply #13 on: August 24, 2010, 11:07:51 AM »

Satin is best actually!
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