Author Topic: Paint Questions  (Read 130182 times)

December 07, 2006, 03:48:11 PM
Reply #80

D:Fuse

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Can I spray a clear lacquer color (Mr. Color Clear and such) for top coat over tamiya acrylic paint?

December 08, 2006, 10:35:17 PM
Reply #81

Zoccoli

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Quote from: "OmegaZEROCustom"

In the event I'm looking to make it darker, do you have any suggestion of something to lay over the top or mix with it that won't take away the metallic? I was thinking a few drops of Gun Metal could darken it a bit more? Like I said, I'm going for a darkened color that has a hint of very dull gold to it.
What about a very thin wash? Maybe just 5-10% plain flat black mixed?

December 09, 2006, 12:09:49 AM
Reply #82

OmegaZEROCustom

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Hmm, I totally didn't consider doing a wash. Thats worth a shot. I'll try that tomorrow when I test out the Titanium Gold.

December 10, 2006, 11:48:04 AM
Reply #83

D:Fuse

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How would one go about in painting the gold on the gun as seen on this picture when the factory piece is all in white color?  http://www.outthere.info/BAKUC06/SGBAKUC06_25.JPG

Airbrush + masking tape or hand brush? And which type of paint is more easy to work with?

December 10, 2006, 12:24:59 PM
Reply #84

Shadowfire

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Quote from: "D:Fuse"
How would one go about in painting the gold on the gun as seen on this picture when the factory piece is all in white color?  http://www.outthere.info/BAKUC06/SGBAKUC06_25.JPG

Airbrush + masking tape or hand brush? And which type of paint is more easy to work with?


Masking tape/solution would work. Whether you want to airbrush or handbrush really depends on how much needs to be painted, the desired texture, and your skill with both methods. I find paint to be a matter of preference. My reccomendation would be a thicker paint for handbrushing (like un-thinned enamel) and a thinner paint for airbrushing (acryllic or thinned enamel/laquer).

If you wanted to get that type of finish that's shown in the picture, though, I'd recommend you first paint the white surface gloss black first. That really makes metallic colors stand out more. However, you can experiment with base colors to get the effect you desire. I remember Funaka did that with his Flaming Red Zeong.

Good luck with it, man.
ime is of the essence.

December 10, 2006, 01:11:37 PM
Reply #85

D:Fuse

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Quote from: "Shadowfire"

Masking tape/solution would work. Whether you want to airbrush or handbrush really depends on how much needs to be painted, the desired texture, and your skill with both methods. I find paint to be a matter of preference. My reccomendation would be a thicker paint for handbrushing (like un-thinned enamel) and a thinner paint for airbrushing (acryllic or thinned enamel/laquer).

If you wanted to get that type of finish that's shown in the picture, though, I'd recommend you first paint the white surface gloss black first. That really makes metallic colors stand out more. However, you can experiment with base colors to get the effect you desire. I remember Funaka did that with his Flaming Red Zeong.

Good luck with it, man.


Thanks for the tips. I think I will go with airbrush and masking tape solution & see how that turns out. The only thing that I hate about masking tape is that sometimes the paint went out of the edge when some of the tape is not fully attached to the piece.

December 10, 2006, 01:37:54 PM
Reply #86

Shadowfire

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Quote from: "D:Fuse"


Thanks for the tips. I think I will go with airbrush and masking tape solution & see how that turns out. The only thing that I hate about masking tape is that sometimes the paint went out of the edge when some of the tape is not fully attached to the piece.


Use some sort of (improvised) burnishing tool to press down the edges of the masking tape to the surface of the model. If you don't have an actual burnisher (is that what it's called?) you could use a toothpick, q-tip, and in some extreme cases, even a marble, lol.
ime is of the essence.

December 10, 2006, 02:29:47 PM
Reply #87

D:Fuse

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Quote from: "Shadowfire"

Use some sort of (improvised) burnishing tool to press down the edges of the masking tape to the surface of the model. If you don't have an actual burnisher (is that what it's called?) you could use a toothpick, q-tip, and in some extreme cases, even a marble, lol.


Yea I think I will also use liquid masking for the middle large area in additions.

December 18, 2006, 09:50:44 PM
Reply #88

Shadowfire

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So lately, I've been working on many miscellaneous modelling projects. While still working on the construction/modification of my gunpla models, I decided to take a break paint my younger bro's little tamiya racer car. As of now, I'm using spray cans because I haven't bought a compressor. I figure I'll save up money right now since I don't need one until I'm done with all 3-5 gunpla projects (that'll be awhile, lol). As most of you know spray cans (at least Testor's Spray) is unthinned and after I sprayed some on the already-primed body of the car, a bit of the paint pooled at two places on the car. I (being the imbecil I am) grabbed a piece of paper and scraped as much of the excess pooled paint as I could. However, Some of it already dried underneath. It's messed up the testure of the surface of the car and what I'd like to know is, waht you guys would suggest that I do. Right now, I'm just thinking of gently sanding away the affected portions and then paint over it again. The problem is, I'm afraid of ruining the whole paint job, therefore, I'd like some help, please. Thank you all.
ime is of the essence.

December 18, 2006, 10:51:48 PM
Reply #89

braxat2000

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Hi shadowfire,
As I see it you have two main options:

To remove all paint and repaint (there is a manual in the forums telling how, and I don't think you'll find the products I use in your country anyway :)).

To sand the problamatic area and repaint.

I would try the second one first, as removing all the paint can be messy, and will require more work. Just sand the area until you can smooth it with finer sand paper, and repaint.

December 19, 2006, 05:42:02 AM
Reply #90

zerobxu

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And when you're re-painting, do it in several lighter coats, as opposed to trying to get the whole thing covered evenly on one shot. Due to the nature of spray paint, this is most likely what caused the excess build-up on your first attempt.

Spray paint really doesn't take that long to dry. It's better to wait it out and get it on right than get in a hurry and do it over several times.
"The parrot is the bird that talks the most and flies the worst."
-The Wright Brothers

December 21, 2006, 03:21:22 PM
Reply #91

TCTheGreat

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i've looked just about every local hobbie shop in the area, and none of them carry tamiya enamel paint, only testors... and i went to taimya USA's website, it's not even there... so where do u guys get it??
 come in peace... and I'm a noob...

December 22, 2006, 05:10:36 PM
Reply #92

Shadowfire

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I don't believe Tamiya makes enamel paints, man.

My question is:

Have any of you ever used Testors brand Metalizer Paints? If so, would you have any advice, tips, or just anything to say about those paints and their use?

I'd like to get some info about them since my uncle just bought me some (Two small bottles of Metalizer Titanium for airbrush use, one spray can of Metalizer Gunmetal, a small bottle of Metalizer Thinner and a spray can of Metalizer Sealant.)

I had asked for Alcad II paints or something similar, lol.
ime is of the essence.


December 23, 2006, 10:37:14 PM
Reply #94

arbalest

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Hi does anyone know whats the easiest method to remove MR.Color "Laquer Based" paints? I guess i am looking to see if there's any everyday chemicals (i.e mr.clean) or easy to get checmical products to get anywhere any advice is greatly appreciated

December 25, 2006, 04:37:53 PM
Reply #95

TCTheGreat

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i used nail polish remover...
 come in peace... and I'm a noob...

December 25, 2006, 06:14:27 PM
Reply #96

Artic Fox

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engine degreaser, just be careful with it

December 27, 2006, 10:59:51 PM
Reply #97

fox_60289

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Well I looked around and read both the airbrushing and the paint help threads and couldn't find any specifics on this, so I figured this would be a good place to ask.

How exactly do you mix your thinner and paint? I'm not asking the ratio's. I'm refering to the process of getting it out of that itty bitty bottle and getting just the right amount of thinner in with it?? I have a tendency to make a mess, and not get the right ratios. A little bit of help and advice would be great.

Thanks,
Andrew

December 27, 2006, 11:11:45 PM
Reply #98

zerobxu

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Quote from: "fox_60289"
How exactly do you mix your thinner and paint? I'm not asking the ratio's. I'm refering to the process of getting it out of that itty bitty bottle and getting just the right amount of thinner in with it??

Pipettes!
(for hand-painting, I just eyeball it till it looks/feels like the right mix ratio)
"The parrot is the bird that talks the most and flies the worst."
-The Wright Brothers

December 27, 2006, 11:18:52 PM
Reply #99

fox_60289

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:lol:

Ha, I just found this killer flash tutorial on how to do all this stuff on a link of the MG tutorial.

Pipettes, I like that better than the eye dropper thing. How do you clean them when your done??

Thanks for the help!