Paint Questions

[nico]

Hi Mike,

If I did understand you message you asked me to post my article in a new tread. Then you ll put a like to it on you MG tutorial.

So hiere it is : Hope you'll understand  :cry:

Introduction

Ok now you are ready to paint your kit. It’s an important step in the modeling process. Painting will highly improve the visual aspect of the kit. It will increase its realism.
Painting is not enough for you kit to become a master piece. A bad painting would ruined all your efforts.
There is no universal method to paint a kit, so we will try to show you different techniques you should test and adapt to your needs. Lets guide you through the maze of paint.

The Paint

Paints are made with 2 principals components : pigment natural or synthetic (resin base) for the color and the aspect. The base oil water or solvent.

Different looks

In shops you will find different types of paints flat , satin and gloss.

The different kind of paint

Acrylics

Acrylics paint is very usefull for modelling. It dries very fast (between 10 to 20 minutes depends on brands) some as Life Colors are non toxic. You can easilly thin them with different kind of puducts like water, distiled water, alcool or specific acrylic thinners. The pigments are very thin and you can get a a rigid or “elastic” coat (depends on makers)
The advantage given by a fast drying process can also become a problem. As it dries faster it is more difficult to paint perfect shade effects. Another main disavantage of acrylics, they are fragile, so beware of friction or chocs.
Main acrylics markers are Tamiya, Gunze-Sangyô, Citadel, Prince August, Revell.

Oil base paints

These kinds of paints are oil based, that means you need oil based thinner like white spirit or turpentine to thin them. These paints also called Enamel are mainly used by figures modelers because it works very well with a paint brush. It dries very slow so you can do many effects directly on the model. You can melt or shade colors very easily, and it doesn’t dry in the airbrush. It is useful to realize washes, mud or grease stains and many kinds of weathering effects.
These paint can be found in jars or tubes for autistics ones. Those last are mainly use by resin figures modelers and during the panel lines painting process.
Unfortunately it smells so you should paint in a very well aired room. When dry Oil base paints can be sealed and are very resistant to shocks or frictions.
You can find them made by Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Revell etc.

Alclad paints

Alclad is a trade mark. This factory made a very special kind of paints that will give your model a very realistic finish. They are made of metallic grains in suspension in a lacquer base solution. Metallic effects are really amazing.
Unfortunately they are volatile and smell a lot so you should use them in a very well aired room. It’s ready to be use no need to thin it. Low pressure is recommended as the paint is very fluid.
You should use Alclad washing solution to wash you painting supplies but you can also use white spirit or any over solvent used to clean oil base paint. Take care and do a test before using a corrosive product with your airbrush.
Alclad doesn’t work with a paint brush. And if you want to do a wash over it you should put a coat of seal or the thinner will remove the Alclad paint.

Techniques

The Prime Coat
The first step in painting process is the priming step. This is not an obligation to prime your kit but it can help.
Resin modelers prime there kit to see little bubbles scratch or so and work on it. It helps to fix the over coats of paint on the kit too.
You can prime the kit with different kind of products like Mr surfacer un jar or can or Primer in can like Tamiya Primer. All these supplies are easily avaible on the net.

The Base Coat


Painting details and weathering


Tell me if you want me to cary on these paragraphs

Bye

Nico

[FichtenFoo]

Most of it seems like it's coming along. You need to mention enamels and lacquers in the types of paint section. Keep editing it in you above post though so it's complete and post a new msg here when you do. Let us know when you're done and we'll clean up the english grammar and spelling.

Anyone have advice to give nico on this? Anything he should add or fix?

[DarkChii78]

After all the praise Alclad paints are getting, I'm thinking of getting some. The only problem is that they are lacquer paints. I'm cautious to use them because of all the safety hazards they pose. So I have a few questions.

1. Any general safety tips? Do I need a respirator?
2. What do you thin lacquers with (I know Alclads don't need to be thinned). What would I clean my airbrush with?
3. Any tips for using Alclad paints? Where do you get them? What type of basecoat works best?

[FichtenFoo]

After all the praise Alclad paints are getting, I'm thinking of getting some. The only problem is that they are lacquer paints. I'm cautious to use them because of all the safety hazards they pose. So I have a few questions.

1. Any general safety tips? Do I need a respirator?
2. What do you thin lacquers with (I know Alclads don't need to be thinned). What would I clean my airbrush with?
3. Any tips for using Alclad paints? Where do you get them? What type of basecoat works best?

1: Respirator and spray boot are highly recommended.
2: Lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush
3: Follow the directions on the bottle for spray PSI.

Alclad FAQ:
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT009_Alclad/TNT009.htm

[GunDom]

2. What do you thin lacquers with?

It should be a given, but it was never addressed.  Lacquer paints need to be thinned with lacquer thinner.  From my understanding, if you're using Mr. Color, I would suggest that you use their line of lacquer thinner.  Although I've heard that you can use commercial-type of lacquer thinner.

[kiasu69]

is anyone familiar with the use of vallejo model color paints? what's the thinner required and the ratio for thinning for such paints? thanks.  :)

[Zantetsuken]

Hi, Im new here. (fresh blood   ). I have an EVA-01 kit and im about to fix the seams any way I have a few questions about paints can anyone help me.

1.What are the disadvantages of using spray paint?   .

2.What are the best spray paints?

I dont have an airbrush yet and i was wondering if a spray paint is a good alternative to painting the model.

thank you.    

[gamerabaenre]

1.What are the disadvantages of using spray paint?

Cost vs amount of paint you get.  Since spray paint cans cost quite a bit more than a bottle of paint, and you do not get near the amount of useable paint.  When using spray cans, it's easy to waste alot of paint too since the pricision is not there - as compared to say a brush or an airbrush.

2.What are the best spray paints?

From my experience, tamyia spray paints are absolutly great.  The paint isn't thick like some Testor's spray cans I've used.  And they go on nice and smooth.

I dont have an airbrush yet and i was wondering if a spray paint is a good alternative to painting the model.

Sure, why not.  I used to use spray cans before I picked up the airbrush.  Just remember, the amount of money spent on spray cans over a period of time can easily equate to the cost of purchasing a decent beginner airbrush ([Shameless plug] Iwata Revolution CR, my first real airbrush - excellent for beginners and at a cost of about $60 US brand new[/shameless plug].  So doing the math, it's about equal to 10 cans of tamyia spray paints.... roughly.  But if you are starting out, go with the spray cans, if you are seriously into building and painting, then save up and pick up an airbrush.  It'll save you money in the long run.

[Zantetsuken]

Thanks!  :)  Sadly air brushes really cost a lot of money not even counting the compressor cost. Since i wont be able to use it a lot of times anyway i think i will just go with a couple of spray paints. and a few regular paint for the detailing.  

I also have a couple more question to you all.

Is it true that gunze sangyo paint are hard to deal with than tamiya paint?
but they give a good look for the finishing.

is there anything you can apply to the finished paint to protect it from scratches or damages?
well except for the future floor acrylic and the tamiya flat base mixture that fichtenfoo made because sadly i dont have an airbrush to do that mixture.

thank you.    

[gamerabaenre]

Is it true that gunze sangyo paint are hard to deal with than tamiya paint?
but they give a good look for the finishing.

 I don't think it is necessarily harder to deal with, but different if you are used to using one brand over another.  Also, are you talking about Gunze's lacquer line or acrylic line?  Most folk only have access to tamiya's acrylic line.  Both of these types of paint are excellent for airbrushing.  I've had mixed feelings about hand brushing either.  

So for handbrushing, I go with enamels.  Tamiya makes an enamel brand and they can be found at best1hobby, they don't advertise it on their webpage, but you can email them and request them.  There's also testor's model master's and humbrol for enamels.  Both of which I have used to a great degree of success in hand painting.  So since you have going to be sticking wtih spray cans and handpainting details, I would recomend going with enamels over any other paint type.

As for the proctective coat.  Gunze makes a top coat in flat, gloss, and semi gloss in borth lacquer and acrylic based formulas - so you don't have to worry about the lacquer version eating away at your delicate paint job.  Again, www.best1hobby.com carries these items.  They will help protect your kit from damages.

An additional note on scratches and damages... you really should allow the paint to completely cure before handling.  This could be anywhere from 1 to 2 weeks of time.  Once cured, the paint should be hard enough to resist scratching, but until then(completely cured), any paint is fragile - some types more fragile than others.

[Zantetsuken]

are you talking about Gunze's lacquer line or acrylic line?

just the acrylic line well maybe both since i never tried them before.

I would reccomend going over enamels than any other paint type.

Why enamels? How does it differ from acrylics? sorry for the noobish question. EDIT never mind this question i just researched it.
and also do i have to mix enamels with some kind of thinner? Thanks for the best1hobby link i never knew that site until now. They really have alot of useful stuff. I think i saw tamiya enamels in my local hooby shop. But i guess i still have to order the top coat online. I never knew that Gunze makes top coats. I have to check the hobby store again for that. 1 to 2 weeks... wow i never knew it took that long for the paint to be completey cured. Meaning that its done from finishing the paint but without any top coat? :?
WOW! thanks for all the help it really means a lot.

[gamerabaenre]

In the case with acrylics, they take a LONG time to fully cure.  Sure it may be dry to the touch after an hour or so, but take  finger nail lightly to it and the paint will come right off.  Since I use future, and it too is acrylic based; allowing it to fully cure will ensure a very tough "shell" over the paint underneath.

Why enamels?  Well, they take longer to dry, which gives them more time to self level and brush strokes will disappear.  In comparison to lacquers and acrylics (tamiya) these two really dry too quicky for the brush strokes to level out decently.  Of course, you can always add retarder to the mix, but that complicates things.  Enamels need to be thinned with enamel thinner.  Of all the paints that I have attempted to hand paint with, enamels are by far, the best in terms of results and ease of use.  There have been may times where I tried to hand brush some tamiya acrylic and I get uneven coverage, and it ends up taking several coats to get it right, then I end up with tons of brush strokes.  Mr Color Lacquer's dry too fast, so it is easy to leave a chunk of paint.  There are acrylic paints that are formulated for hand painting such as vallejo's and delta cremacoat.  But I have no experience in these paints.  You may want to experiment a little with different brands and types and see what fits your budget and modeling style before settling in and buying a bulk of paints.  Something I should have done years ago.

Do some additional research on cure times for different paints and also do your own experimentations and find your own conclusions.  It'll help you in the long run with your modeling style and pace.

[Doly Sinaga]

I want to paint the rubbery parts of PG Wing Zero Custom (the "feathers" and the red waist) and the wings of HG-EW Wing Zero Custom. I'm thinking of airbrushing the parts first with Future and then paint them with Tamiya acrylic paint. Or the second alternative; airbrushing them with Tamiya enamel paint.

Are these possible or do I have to use special paints for rubbery parts like Irisawa vinyl paint?

[Titan-ex]

http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/504/photo/Gundam+tutorial+for+busy+people/


Can anyone tell me if this was  gunmetal or darkgrey paint used in the  photo.

[FichtenFoo]

http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/504/photo/Gundam+tutorial+for+busy+people/


Can anyone tell me if this was  gunmetal or darkgrey paint used in the  photo.

Well... looks like grey to me. Could be an Alclad metal, but it doesn't look like metal much. Here's an off-the-wall thought... but have you tried e-mailing him to ask? :? It's so crazy, it might just work!

[nico]

It's seems to be a medium grey. You can melt metalic colour with this grey base to give the kit a metalic aspect. I already tried this, it works very well.
Actually you should follow mike advice.

Nico

[Scarylion]

With Aclad mettalic paints is it best to prime with a dark colour first? (i.e black) or is the usual grey alright?

[T1000]

Please allow me to share some of my experience about paints..

So far I have used 4 types of paints, but would only classified them into 3 categories.

1. Water based acrylic paint (Hobby Color by Gunze)

2. Lacquer based acrylic paint (Mr. Color by Gunze, Tamiya Acrylics)

3. Enamel Oil Based paint from Tamiya.

I have used both lacquer based and water based extensively and would like to jot down the pro and cons of water based vs lacquer based.

Pro of Lacquer based paint:
1. Color is very vibrant and nice. Much richer colour tone than water based. Compare the silver and you will see a vast difference. The lacquer type silver is finer and smoother, while the silverof water based paint is much cause.
2. Best used with air brush and needs only very little (thinner to paint ratio of about 70:30) and it cover a larger area than water based for the same volume. (that explains the smaller size of the paints?)
3. Higher reisistance to scratching after curing. Best used for joint and contacts.
4. Rumours has it that it stays on the model longer without colours fading.

Cons of lacquer based paint:
1. It is toxic. Make sure you wear a mask and the spray area is well ventilated.
2. Not that easy to strip off. For water based paints, it can be stripped off very easily using Windex.
3. It dries fast. sometimes to fast. Making hand painting impossible without Mr Retarder. Also, if the presure of the air brush is too high, and/or the paintis too thick, it will dries in midair and you will be spiderman wannabe.. spraying webs out of your air brush ruining your work..
4. Leaving the paint in your air brush for too long and it will get stuck at the nozzle. Which means that you have to clean the airbrush much more often.


Hints:

Never mix water based paint with lacquer paints no matter who said it is ok.

It is ok to spray water based on top of lacquer paints,but not vice versa for lacquer based is stronger and may damage your work.


Hope that helps clear some doubts....or do I add more doubts?  :roll:

[Zantetsuken]

Thanks for the additional info    Can anyone help me again? I'm having some trouble, i cant quite find the correct paint mixture for this model kit. Anyone can read japanese? you can help me out a lot.

heres the paint guide link im having trouble finding the color for  letters B and D.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b157/paoXIII/Evangelion/?action=view&current=33487072.jpg

Thanks a lot guys!      

[Titan-ex]

Thanks for the additional info    Can anyone help me again? I'm having some trouble, i cant quite find the correct paint mixture for this model kit. Anyone can read japanese? you can help me out a lot.

heres the paint guide link im having trouble finding the color for  letters B and D.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b157/paoXIII/Evangelion/?action=view&current=33487072.jpg

Thanks a lot guys!      

B looks like yellow with some  orange added.
D looks is a little blue and red mix to start,then add a little white stir and repeat till you get the shade you want.Sometimes you need to add more red or blue if the shade isn't purple enough.