Author Topic: Tits McGee - Galaxy Girl!!  (Read 9701 times)

June 11, 2007, 01:13:44 PM
Reply #20

FichtenFoo

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Thanks for the info! I'll have to call and get some.

June 11, 2007, 07:00:46 PM
Reply #21

thor777

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very educational and informative WIP  :D Now I know where to buy Parafilm, hehe

June 12, 2007, 03:37:13 AM
Reply #22

FilmMkr

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Thanks, guys.  By the way, you can also get Parafilm at MicroMark.


June 13, 2007, 11:08:15 AM
Reply #23

StormKat

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So much information... I don't know if I can absorb it all.  :sick:

Once I'm done with this SR-71 I'm working on, I'm going to try some of these techniques on a couple of 1/144 kits.  FilmMkr, you are THE man!  Keep these WIPs coming.
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[Lord o' Thunder]

June 15, 2007, 10:55:23 AM
Reply #24

Mindless

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Looks great Filmy.

Though, I'm surprised that people haven't heard about ParaFilm. I would have regarded it as a quite common masking tool.

Anyway. Great inspirational thread, just wish work took up less of my day. Oh well, guess beggars can't be choosers...  :doh:

June 21, 2007, 11:30:30 PM
Reply #25

U-recca

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Filmy-san,

Excellent work!  I'm eagerly awaiting add'l info on your pearl effects and how you approached the nice tones and glossy sheen on FG's lips. Small thing I'm sure, but not to be overlooked.

Thanks for sharing all this!  :-)
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July 01, 2007, 07:11:10 AM
Reply #26

FilmMkr

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Well, even the best-laid plans often go awry.  I had a hell of a time with the color coat on her jumper.  The paint kept beading up and would not lay down smoothly at all.  I couldn't understand why I couldn't get good coverage.  I could barely mist from a distance using low trigger pressure, but if I lowered the pressure on my compressor so that I could increase paint flow, the brush wouldn't spray the relatively thick pigment.  If I increased paint flow, the paint would bead in an instant.

Needless to say, this really pissed me off.  How many times have we all been there?  We work and work and work, taking our time and being as precise as we possibly can and then "something" happens and ruins all of our efforts.

For the life of me I couldn't figure out what the problem was.  At first I thought that perhaps I had a bad batch of primer.  I used my regular Tamiya Fine White, and the resulting base was smooth as a baby's butt - maybe even too smooth!  Could it be that the primer was so slick that it caused the paint to bead?

I tried to save all of the work I had done by using Windex to judiciously remove the color coat.  I mixed a new batch of paint and increased the amount of pigment just in case there was too much reducer and that was causing the uneven coverage.

I laid another light coat of Tamiya primer down so that I would have an even base coat and tried again.  Same results.  F*ck!  I knew then that I would have to start over, so in a fit of frustration, I removed all the masking and dumped the whole kit-and-caboodle into Lake Castrol.  After about ten minutes, I gloved up and broke out a toothbrush and removed every single trace of paint and primer, down to the bare resin.  I started the entire process over again, this time using grey etching primer as my base with no Tamiya overcoat.

After another full week of prep and skintone and shading and masking I tried again.  Same result.  Same pissed-off modeler.  I damn near threw the kit against the wall, I was so bent.  At times like this the best thing for me to do is put the kit down and walk away from the bench for a while.  I work a minimum of twelve hours a day, often fourteen to sixteen, running my production company, so my modeling time in the evenings and on weekends is precious to me.  Much too precious to spend pissed-off.

I took a break for a week or so and started another (different) kit, Chaos Lord by Sam Greenwell.  This piece required some sculpting and really took my mind off of the frustration I was feeling with Future Girl.  I was rejuvenated and stripped her paint once again.  During the down time I took the opportunity to clean up my entire painting system - I stipped and cleaned all three of my airbrushes, changed the filter in my paint booth, and examined my compressor and lines.

As luck would have it, during my point-to-point checkup, I discovered the problem.  My moisture trap was half-full of water!  Ack!  No wonder the paint was beading - it was full of water!

I live in an extraordinarily humid environment - my house is about a half mile from Galveston Bay on the Texas gulf coast - and it has been a very wet and rainy spring.  I usually keep several buckets of Damp Rid in the garage to keep the humidity in my paint area down, but I had not refilled the buckets in quite some time.

Anyway, after cleaning out my moisture trap, I refilled the buckets and kept the garage closed for a day or so while I finished stripping the kit again.  I KNOW that there was not one iota of mold release on this kit because its been dunked in CSC and washed with SoftScrub three times!  This time I used my etching primer, followed by a couple of coats of Lifetones Bone White for a base coat.  I went through all of the skintone, shading, and masking steps again and I was ready to go.

Now I hadn't been pleased with the Cerulean Blue color anyway, so this time I mixed a batch of Liquitex Cobalt Blue and started slinging paint.  I gently put down layer after layer, building the transparent paint up until I had a deep, rich blue.  I think I used twelve coats before I was happy with the coverage and depth of color.  I let the paint gas out for a couple of days, then sealed it with Testor's Semi Gloss out of a rattle can.

Pleased with the progress, I mixed up a batch of Future and a touch of Tamiya Flat in a ratio of about 10:1.  I wanted a sheen, but not full gloss.  Kind of between semi-gloss and really, really shiny.  I then added a couple of small scoops of PearlEx 671 Interference Blue pigment to the mix and slowly built up four coats over the sealed Cobalt color.  I let that dry for a day and held my breath while I pulled the masking.  Here are the results:










WHEW!!

I suppose the moral of this story, if there is one, is that, well . . . . come to think of it, there are several morals!  LOL.

First, everyone makes mistakes.  No one, from the raw rookie to the most seasoned veteran, is immune from screwups.

Second, check your equipment!  Take nothing for granted.  If i had checked my moisture trap, I would been finished with this kit weeks ago.  Then again, I didn't hit on the cobalt blue until the third time I tried, and I really love the depth of color now.

And finally, never give up!  Remember, "quitters never win".  Its as true for modeling as it is for our daily lives.  Finish what you start.

Now I can move on to masking (again!) her skin and jumper so that I can paint the gold trim stripe around her clothing.  Then I'll mask her right hand and detail her ray gun.  I can also paint her face and hair and the lower part of her boots so that I can begin final assembly.

FM

July 01, 2007, 09:19:16 AM
Reply #27

FichtenFoo

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Wow... that sucks... It's always the last place you look. :evil: Glad it's worked out though and the blue looks great. One off-collar comment though... that first and last pic... :shifty: Are you sure it's a future girl? :lol:
« Last Edit: July 01, 2007, 09:19:34 AM by FichtenFoo »

July 01, 2007, 10:53:48 AM
Reply #28

Anchang

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Well isn't it always the last place you look?  Because why would you keep looking after you found the problem?


Looks great FilmMkr the skin tones look amazing.  I also really like to blue you used.
Also Known as Havok
Colbert      2008

July 01, 2007, 12:01:52 PM
Reply #29

FilmMkr

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After three hours (and one start-to-finish French Grand Prix) of tedious and time-consuming masking, our curvy space vixen is ready to earn her gold stripes:




The green goop around her neck and between her legs is Silly Putty.  I also used Tamiya tape, 3M painter's tape, and Saran Wrap.

Remember the trick I showed you earlier to prevent paint bleed?  Since the stripes will border two colors (skintone and her pearly jumper), I couldn't use one color or the other to seal the tape edges.  Instead I used a quick coat of Testor's Semi-Gloss over and around the areas where I'm gonna paint.  I'll let that cure for about a half hour, then paint her stripes.

In the meantime I'll work on her lovely face.


July 01, 2007, 12:42:44 PM
Reply #30

Marc

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That's a very beautiful blue, quite spectacular.
It's an awful lot of time masking for 9 stripes but that's the way to get a proper result, and I'm sure you didn't want to take any chance with what was already painted.

March 02, 2008, 03:43:57 PM
Reply #31

oteebzo

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I am sorry to revisit an old thread but I have been gone for awhile and was just wondering did you coat your skintone before parafilm?  ( I would think the film would pull the pastels off)And there has been no updates in a while is she done because I would like to see the rest of the updates

March 05, 2008, 05:48:00 AM
Reply #32

FilmMkr

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Quote
I am sorry to revisit an old thread but I have been gone for awhile and was just wondering did you coat your skintone before parafilm?  ( I would think the film would pull the pastels off)

Yes.  Always seal your work with dullcote before adding additional pastels, shading, paint, or before masking with tape, parafilm, or liquid masking materials.

Quote
And there has been no updates in a while is she done because I would like to see the rest of the updates

Um, yes, you have been gone for a while!  Check THIS out.