Author Topic: Mr. Sufacer and Primer Questions (post 'em here)  (Read 96253 times)

October 09, 2006, 11:15:02 PM
Reply #80

zerobxu

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Quote from: "Vinny"
I'm using Tamiya flat white, blue, and red for my "Gundam" colors.  They seemed to match the direction book pretty well.  If anyone can recommmend what they use for typical Gundam colors, I'm all ears.  I wanted to do the model in all flat colors, ad then use the Future floor coat to make it shiny in the end.

Well, if you're using flat colors, then the paint will appear flat/dull when applied. As long as your colors are solid (i.e. your flat red looks red and not pinkish), you should be fine once you've got the FFA on there.

If you have further/similar problems with the paint, you might try posting a picture as that will probably help folks troubleshoot the issue.
"The parrot is the bird that talks the most and flies the worst."
-The Wright Brothers

October 09, 2006, 11:32:03 PM
Reply #81

Vinny

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Thanks, Zero.  To tell you the truth, as this is my first fully painted kit, I'd be so embarassed posting it here  :oops: My panel lines came out so sloppy.  I don't know how you guys get them so precise and smooth on your kits.  Mine bleed into the surrounding paint!  Am I supposed to put a coat of FFA before paneling?  WIll that make them more sharp?

October 09, 2006, 11:52:33 PM
Reply #82

zerobxu

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Quote from: "Vinny"
Thanks, Zero.  To tell you the truth, as this is my first fully painted kit, I'd be so embarassed posting it here  :oops: My panel lines came out so sloppy.  I don't know how you guys get them so precise and smooth on your kits.  Mine bleed into the surrounding paint!  Am I supposed to put a coat of FFA before paneling?  WIll that make them more sharp?

Don't worry about it. We all start somewhere, and I know I have a lot of areas that still need vast improvement. Since I'm not sure how you're doing your panel lines (and this is a sticky about primers), I'm going to refer you to the section of FichtenFoo's model tutorial regarding panel lines (click here).
"The parrot is the bird that talks the most and flies the worst."
-The Wright Brothers

October 09, 2006, 11:57:20 PM
Reply #83

Vinny

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Yes, I noticed I'm kind of clogging this topic.  Thanks for your help!

October 20, 2006, 04:19:00 AM
Reply #84

Vinny

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I have one more primer question.
If I spray my model with a flat white primer, do I need to still paint the white parts white?  Probabl a dumb question, but I just wanted to make sure of this.  Thanks!

October 20, 2006, 05:19:43 AM
Reply #85

zerobxu

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Quote from: "Vinny"
I have one more primer question.
If I spray my model with a flat white primer, do I need to still paint the white parts white?  

Yes.
"The parrot is the bird that talks the most and flies the worst."
-The Wright Brothers

November 15, 2006, 05:37:19 PM
Reply #86

mrmaigo

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Other than Mr. Surfacer, Tamiya,  Krylon and the like, what other primers work for us?

I was at Home Depot (which I'm starting to hate) and I found a whole wall of primers, from pints to 5 gallon buckets and they're fairly cheap. I checked the back of a few cans but didn't see anything about plastics or thinning. Are any of them any good?

November 18, 2006, 03:05:21 PM
Reply #87

bender222

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I was browsing Hobby lobby today and I found a product  by SIG called Sanding Sealer. I think this may be an alternative to mr surfacer if it is unavailable. It is in a Jar aswell. they also make a "supercoat thinner" that is compatible with it. I tried using it and it is fairly thick, so im going to experiment with some of that thinner

December 01, 2006, 12:12:24 AM
Reply #88

D:Fuse

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First of all, Hi to all member!


Ok so is it necessary to sand all the plastics after priming?
Or can I just go head and blast it with paints right after the primer dried?

December 01, 2006, 12:36:02 AM
Reply #89

braxat2000

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Hi D:Fuse:
Sanding is not required, only if you find a defect that you wish to fix. The primer allows you to see defects which you may have missed.

December 02, 2006, 03:53:33 PM
Reply #90

D:Fuse

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Quote from: "braxat2000"
Hi D:Fuse:
Sanding is not required, only if you find a defect that you wish to fix. The primer allows you to see defects which you may have missed.



So if I see a mistake, I sand it again, and after fixing the mistake I blast it with primer again?

December 02, 2006, 04:42:30 PM
Reply #91

mrmaigo

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Quote from: "D:Fuse"
Quote from: "braxat2000"
Hi D:Fuse:
Sanding is not required, only if you find a defect that you wish to fix. The primer allows you to see defects which you may have missed.



So if I see a mistake, I sand it again, and after fixing the mistake I blast it with primer again?


Yup, the primer gives you a consistant base color to work with. Very helpful if you're painting one color over another colored peace

December 04, 2006, 12:26:02 PM
Reply #92

D:Fuse

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Can I use Mr. Leveling Thinner with 2 drops of Mr. Retarder for Mr. Surfacer? What's the ratio for mixing Mr. Surfacer?

December 04, 2006, 12:42:01 PM
Reply #93

FichtenFoo

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I generally don't measure when I mix Mr. Surfacer with Lacquer Thinner. But I'd say I do approx 50/50 then add a drop of Mr Retarder for approximately every teaspoon of the 50/50 mix. So when I mix mine, I generally do a Badger airbrush syphon bottle full... with that I add 4-6 drops of Retarder.

December 04, 2006, 02:19:53 PM
Reply #94

D:Fuse

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Do you know what the specific difference between Mr. leveling thinner & mr. color thinner?

December 12, 2006, 12:47:29 PM
Reply #95

amessier

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Quote from: "Traks"
Quote from: "Maschinen Krueger"
An alternative to the expensive Mr and Tamiya primers are automotive acrylic lacquer primers. PlastiKoat makes a great primer in a spray can. About $4 for a for a big spray can. Dries fast. It is a little soft, but can be scribed with out flaking. Builds up fast and sands quickly with out gumming up your wet sanding the way Krylon Primer can.

They also make a Filler Sanding primer, can't imagine what the coverage would be like with that one, the regular sanding primer gets most things in one coat.

I don't experience loss of detail from the primer either, if fine details like panel lines are getting filled, I'll re-scribe after sanding is finished. Butby the point I'm adding fine details to my models, the majority of priming and sanding will be done.

http://www.plasti-kote.com/plastikote/auto/template.jsp?searchcode=PRI&product=SandablePrimer

I recently decanted some into a paper cup and used it in my airbrush. Oh man! Worked great with better control than from a rattle can.


I also found Plasti-kote in a small touch up bottle at Pep Boys automotive store. It comes with a brush, inside the bottle like nail polish, and like you said in your post, it sprays out of the airbrush nicely.
(picture)


Are you using any thinner with your air brush when you apply this?

December 18, 2006, 01:43:19 PM
Reply #96

mrmaigo

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I saw "Sig(?) Sanding Sealer" at Hobby Lobby, it was like a 5oz bottle. Looked at the back, and it has Toluene... opened the jar and its like ALL Toluene... almost knocked me out... Not really, but you get the idea

Anyway, it any good? It was only like 6 bucks for that huge bottle

December 18, 2006, 02:33:05 PM
Reply #97

thor777

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I bought 2 spray bottles (couldn't find the quart size, I think you can special order them though) of Rust-oleum Plastic Primer from Home Depot for about $5 a can.  I haven't tried it yet but modelers on other forums swears by this product.  I will try it on my next kit.  I'm sure you can get it at Lowe's or local hardware store, too.  If anyone is using this product, please post results/opinions.  Thanks!

December 18, 2006, 04:39:58 PM
Reply #98

BM2

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Thor - I can vouch for the plastic primer - bites like a pitbull and covers fast- just lay it on LIGHT- it has a lot of solvents!
http://tinyurl.com/yamef6
it is available in a quart can if you prefer to airbrush it
colors too!-
http://tinyurl.com/yg4w96
The dude abides!

January 12, 2007, 09:11:39 AM
Reply #99

tehmarken

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Well, I ran out of the Tamiya primer I brought with me back to school from Virginia. I went on an adventure shopping around Rochester and after 2 hours, couldn't find anywhere that carries Tamiya paints, and so I ended up at a shop that mainly deals with Warhammer-type games.

They had Citedal Colours available, which looked to be the official paint of Games Workshop, I think they were either 12oz or 16oz, and were $10.00 a piece.
So I opted for a cheaper brand that was $5.95 for a 12oz, I can't remember the exact name, but I think the company was Geek Tower, and the paint line is called Armory Colours. From what I gathered, Geek Tower is a 3rd party supplier for Warhammer style games.

This afternoon I'll be trying it out on the few pieces left of my Zaku II, I was just wondering if anyone else has had experience with these companies / paint lines.