Author Topic: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)  (Read 10992 times)

FichtenFoo

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Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« on: January 13, 2007, 11:02:28 AM »
I just realized that we don't have a sticky on cleaning resin of mold release and whatnot prior to painting. Post your tips and questions here.

I started (as a small mental health kit) a Junk Tank Rock SEG-888 Monobike today. This will be my first full resin kit believe it or not. In the past I've tried several methods of cleaning resin bits like hands and armor add-ons, but most didn't work well. Yesterday I picked up some Purple Power at Walmart (didn't have the Castrol Super Clean I've heard is good) and soaked some test parts in it overnight. (Wear rubber gloves and goggles!!!) I scrubbed them with a toothbrush and rinsed them off and primed them. One I cleaned afterwards with alcohol as a test. The primer is curing, but I'll let you know if it adheres well later.

Update: The primer still isn't cured, but I tried running my impatient fingernail on the parts and that primer isn't going anywhere. Cool! 8)
Rust is beautiful.

D:Fuse

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Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2007, 12:08:09 PM »
Is it necessary to use a powerful cleaning agent rather than using regular dish soap?
I usually clean all my plastic model kit and some small resin with regular dish soap, and turns out okay.

fulcy

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Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2007, 12:14:02 PM »
It all depends on the release agent that was used in the molding process of the resin parts.  Some release agents will not be removed using plain dish soap, and if left on the resin, will affect the adhesion of paint on the resin parts...

godhammer

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2007, 08:46:28 PM »
I would heartily recommend you try Castrol Super Clean if you haven't already. It's a very high power cleaning agent that's safe for both plastics and resin. For removing mold release, I usually soak the parts for about an hour in an ice-cream bucket full of CSC, then give them a good once-over with an old toothbrush (emphasis on old, don't go using your own toothbrush, this stuff is still toxic). Another use for CSC is stripping paint, have a camo pattern that didn't work out? Just toss the armor plates into a bath of CSC overnight, and it'll strip them down to bare plastic with a little extra brush-work. Be carefull though, if you leave parts in too long (like I did once, leaving some parts soaking for almost a month while life got in the way of modeling) they may become dyed purple, which isn't harmful, but looks weird as hell.
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Haseo

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2007, 08:03:33 PM »
ahh god! i washed those K-hands that fulcy sent me like 2 times with soap (im getting the feeling that soap isnt good enough after read above) and i still cant glue them together...  (by the way is tamiya extra thin cement good enough to glue it?)
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clee-cm

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2007, 08:18:15 PM »
I have not tried Castrol Super Clean yet, the idea of having to use gloves and goggles to clean resin parts is a turn to me off. I am not dissing Castrol Super Clean by a long shot, I am just saying I am thinking twice about using the stuff.

I just use dish washing liquid and water, after a soak over night, I clean off the parts with running water. So far so good, I have not had any problems yet.

When you glue resin to any type of plastic or build a resin kit, are you using Super Glue? If not, then you need to use super glue to build a resit kit of any kind.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2007, 08:25:41 PM by clee-cm »
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fulcy

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2007, 01:50:52 AM »
ahh god! i washed those K-hands that fulcy sent me like 2 times with soap (im getting the feeling that soap isnt good enough after read above) and i still cant glue them together...  (by the way is tamiya extra thin cement good enough to glue it?)

Tamiya cement will not work with resin.  Tamiya cement works on the premise of 'welding' the plastic pieces together - by melting the plastic at the interface slightly, so that the plastic welds to each other.  Resin is not plastic - it's harder than plastic and will not melt using plastic glues, so you need to use a glue that will act as the bonding agent - either super glue as clee said, or epoxy will work too...

crazedpanda

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Cleaning Resin Kits
« Reply #7 on: January 15, 2008, 11:27:18 AM »
I was wondering about cleaning resin kits to remove mold release. I've heard a lot about CSC, but also that it's no longer available to purchase. So what other products are available to clean the resin kit? (I tried looking for Purple Power at a lot of different places but didn't see it). Oh, and I'm in Ohio right now if that makes a difference as to which cleaner/degreasers I can obtain.

chaos_theory

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2008, 05:21:23 AM »
Try Simple Green. I've heard that Goo Gone (has orange oil in it) works but needs to be washed a couple of times with warm soapy water. Haven't tried it so take care to test it first if you try it. Be careful to stay away from things like Greased Lightning or 409.
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GlauG

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2008, 03:37:43 PM »
Try Simple Green. I've heard that Goo Gone (has orange oil in it) works but needs to be washed a couple of times with warm soapy water. Haven't tried it so take care to test it first if you try it. Be careful to stay away from things like Greased Lightning or 409.

I've heard good things about Formula 409, but not living in the US I can't give definitive advice on that one (not sold where I've lived).

For UK-based modellers, I've used regular Cillit Bang (the type with the GREEN handle/nozzle) to remove mould release from resin kits, but be very careful NOT to use the ORANGE type (which is specifically marketed as a degreaser) as it's waaaay too strong (as I complained about here ).  Sorry for all the caps there, but I don't want someone to get 'em mixed up and ruin hundreds of dollars worth of kit like I did.  :angry:

mtomczek

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2008, 09:46:46 AM »
If you are in the states, you can find purple power at any automotive parts store. It will run you about $4 for a spray bottle, and about $10 for a gallon jug.

crazedpanda

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #11 on: January 20, 2008, 06:01:47 PM »
I couldn't find Purple Power, so I ended up getting Industrial Purple by Zep since I figured it would be similar to Purple Power. I followed the instructions on the container and diluted it down so it should be ok.

amurorey

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2008, 02:14:49 AM »
I use OxyClean.
It's easy to obtain from local supermarket at the laundry/cleaning section...
Don't think missus will appreciate if I start to stock pile the Castrol fluid cans at the corner of out study room...

robofreak

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #13 on: April 11, 2008, 08:48:00 PM »
I've got a weird method that actually works. First I wash the parts in soap and water and let them air dry after rinsing. If they still feel greasy I put them in a bath of white vinegar and scrub the pieces with an old toothbrush. After which, I repeat the soap and water process. This usually works unless someone used something particularly strange for the mold release. The acidity of the vinegar will eat at that stubborn mold release without harming the parts to my knowledge. I only let them sit in the vinegar long enough to scrub the parts.

After it's all dry, I spray the parts down in either Krylon or Dupli-Color primers. The primers have enough solvent strength to get rid of anything the soap or vinegar missed and will adhere in most cases.

I've actually found that some cleaners will cause more trouble than their worth and more natural cleaners like vinegar tend to be very helpful for resin.

Hope it helps!

merkava74

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2009, 11:02:39 PM »
Not sure of any of you tried this, but it has worked for me for many years:

Laundry Detergent. Soak all my resin parts in a tub of warm water with a generous amount of detergent powder, scrub them with a soft toothbrush, and leave it overnight.

Then its a VERY good rinse (you don't want residue detergent after the parts are dried) with running water. For added insurance, I toothbrush the parts again as I rinse. Leave to air-dry, and not a single spot of mold-release will be left.

Incidentally, if I screw up an acrylic paint job for a part, the same method removes the paint, but leaves the primer intact perfectly.

Hope this helps!

FichtenFoo

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #15 on: August 19, 2009, 08:00:36 AM »
FYI: Definitely use gloves with Purple Power. I was cleaning some resin after an overnight soak and tore a glove. Where the small hole was the inside of the glove melted to my finger and I have a very nice blister. Ouch! Time for new/better gloves.
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Hunter Rose

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2011, 04:19:51 AM »
I have a lot of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) knocking about in my shed, I've used it as a cleaner in the past, can soaking resin parts in it remove the release agent? Or is it too harsh for resin?
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FichtenFoo

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2011, 07:13:26 PM »
I have a lot of Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) knocking about in my shed, I've used it as a cleaner in the past, can soaking resin parts in it remove the release agent? Or is it too harsh for resin?
I am not sure. You can always do a test on some gate scrap or a spare piece.
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Hunter Rose

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Re: Cleaning Resin (Before Priming and Painting)
« Reply #18 on: September 18, 2011, 10:49:36 AM »
Thanks for the reply fich, did some further research and found that you can use IPA.

Seems a lot more simple and quicker than some methods I've seen, basically you just soak a cotton ball in IPA then rub the resin parts (using a fresh soaked cotton ball for each part) all over in a circular motion then scrub them in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush and dry them off with a paper towel.

It seems to have worked really well, now dry the parts all feel squeaky clean, I'll post back when I've laid some paint down to confirm it sticks okay, could be helpful for others having problems.

I'm praying it works though as its your Hornethopter I'm painting! Should be good though a lot of resin modellers swear by IPA, apparently the alcohol breaks down the silicon in the mold release, but I'm no scientist so we'll just see!  :-)
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