Author Topic: Putty Questions  (Read 55229 times)

April 16, 2007, 10:14:12 PM
Reply #60

ttmnky

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I'm sorry for butting in, but what would be the best for sculpting? So Far, I've got the impression that squadron green and tamiya thinned is good for filling in seems

But which putty is best for sculpting or aggressively reshaping, like what Peck did with the Ghost Quebely?

link: http://members12.tsukaeru.net/peck/html2/1/quberey_a.htm

April 17, 2007, 04:00:32 AM
Reply #61

mrmaigo

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Believe he used magic sculpt

April 17, 2007, 03:25:56 PM
Reply #62

FilmMkr

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Quote
I'm sorry for butting in, but what would be the best for sculpting?

IMO, that would be Aves Apoxie Sculpt.


May 05, 2007, 08:41:59 AM
Reply #63

spiffitz

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Finally while cruising through the local hardware store I remembered to pick up a tube of epoxy in the plumbing section. It comes in a tube with the two parts already stuck together so all you need to do is cut off what you need and start mixing.

For the impatient type such as myself this stuff is amazing. It'll start to heat up after a few minutes as the chemical reaction occurs. In about 5 to 7 minutes you have a piece about as hard and dense as a rock of the same size. Once hardened it is very easy to file/dremel to shape and also takes sandpaper quite well. As suggested by the instructions I wear gloves, and while kneading it I wet my fingertips to keep the putty from sticking to me. The water also helps add pliability and seems to prolong the hardening action by a few minutes. I'll eventually experiment in thinning it with various solvents.

So basically it's like Milliput, except it's under $5 and 5 minutes.

Ron

May 15, 2007, 01:40:26 PM
Reply #64

FichtenFoo

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So here's a Bondo question for those of you in the know. My first can of Bondo was the "premium" filler with the blue hardener. My newer can is the regular with the red hardener. (I like this cheaper one better) I'm almost out of the red hardener, and while I believe they sell it seperately, will the blue hardener cream work with the normal Bondo?

May 15, 2007, 03:46:59 PM
Reply #65

fulcy

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Uh, try it?

May 21, 2007, 10:43:39 PM
Reply #66

Mikko

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My EUR0.02 on this subject.

I have been sculpting figures and hence been playing with putty as long as I can remember...
I think I have used pretty much all readily available brands excluding MoriMori and Bondo.

Only recently I decided to give it a try with Apoxie Sculpt. Ordered few pounds of it.
First impression..."Oh...looks and smells like Magic Sculpt!! Dang!"
Now I'm hooked!! This stuff is FANTASTIC to work with!!
Does everything better than Milliput and Magic Sculpt which were previously my prefered brands.

My current arsenal:
1) LOTS of Apoxie Sculpt (This stuff is also fairly cheap when bought in larger amounts)
2) Green Stuff for certain specific applications (a total b?&ch to sand...so works only on more "organic" sculpts)
3) White Squadron for gap filling
4) Mr. Surfacers for minor flaws and priming

Stuff I have used in the past:
-Milliput (All grades. Sands well, but is difficult to mix to perfection and is VERY messy in my opinion. Sands OK. Poor shelf life)
-Magic Sculpt (Fairly good stuff. A tad too waxy when set and does not sand as well as Apoxie)
-Sylmasta A+B (Sets rock hard, but is very soft in the begining. Apoxie does everything better.)
-Tamiya Epoxy Putty (Like crappy green stuff in my opinion)
-Tamiya Polyester putty (Ok, but expensive here. Using Squadron instead)

I have used lots of other fillers too but none are worth mentioning. Poor adhesion, crumbly structure when set and the fact that they dry in a flash once the tube has been opened being the common problems.

Cheers,
M




 


May 29, 2007, 12:01:01 PM
Reply #67

Mrex-sgundam

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After stripping my OYW with Castrols I wasnt sure if I did it right. I left it in the tube for a whole 24 hours plus. And when I took the plastic out and scrub off the paint it still had leftover paint stuck in the panel lines. Now I want to get rid of the panel lines by putting over them  do I need to remove the all the paint inside the panel line or will the putty be fine over the paint?
« Last Edit: August 13, 2007, 06:01:58 AM by Mrex-sgundam »
Hey, how's it going?

June 25, 2007, 07:50:18 PM
Reply #68

Retributions777

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Hello all, I just got done using some Tamiya Epoxy Putty and I really wasn't quite thrilled with the results. At the moment I'm looking to testing some either Bondo or Squadron, hell, even both. Does anyone know of a place in the Metro Detroit area where I can get a hold of this (I live in Dearborn Heights on the border of Dearborn for reference)? Or am I going to have to order from the net (a link would be helpful though)? I'm not sure if my local hobby store carries any or not. I do know that Rider's Hobby carries some crappy Testors putty but I am not sure if they ever carry anything other than Testors products. I really hope I can find some so I can learn more about puttying and start using it more in scratchbuilding.
 need tips on painting gundams, finelining, and if anyone here draws, I need some suggestions on what colored pencils to use.

June 26, 2007, 01:42:04 AM
Reply #69

fulcy

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Bondo is found at your local automotive store - I prefer the premium version, but others have had good results with the regular bondo also...

June 26, 2007, 02:07:10 AM
Reply #70

Marc

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Walmart also carries Bondo's Glazing & Spot Putty. Works just fine.

June 26, 2007, 08:11:14 AM
Reply #71

Retributions777

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Thanks, it's good to know because there is a walmart only like 2 miles from where i live. I'll probably order some squadron over time.
 need tips on painting gundams, finelining, and if anyone here draws, I need some suggestions on what colored pencils to use.

July 03, 2007, 07:47:50 AM
Reply #72

Alpha 54

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I gouged the edge of my MG Nu Gundam head where the two head pieces come together and I plan on removing the seam now should I putty it first then glue it  or glue it first then putty?

July 03, 2007, 11:53:59 AM
Reply #73

tetsujin

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I gouged the edge of my MG Nu Gundam head where the two head pieces come together and I plan on removing the seam now should I putty it first then glue it  or glue it first then putty?

Glue first.  You want the bond between the two parts to be really solid before you lay down putty.  Otherwise, there's potential for the two parts to shift with respect to each other, resulting in the appearance of a crack, particularly when you're sanding the putty down after application.
---GEC
Jabber ID: tetsujin@scope-eye.net

July 18, 2007, 03:56:49 PM
Reply #74

Toxikon

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First post! I'm re-entering the gunpla world after having stopped for many years, and.....

I have a quick question about thinning Tamiya Putty, namely, how do you do it?

I searched the topic but didn't manage to find what I was looking for. If the topic has been addressed links would be greatly appreciated.

July 18, 2007, 06:47:32 PM
Reply #75

Identity_Chrisis

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First post! I'm re-entering the gunpla world after having stopped for many years, and.....

I have a quick question about thinning Tamiya Putty, namely, how do you do it?

I searched the topic but didn't manage to find what I was looking for. If the topic has been addressed links would be greatly appreciated.

you can squeeze out some putty into a bottle or dish, and the stir in some mr. color thinner or tamiya lacquer thinner until it is the thickness you want. the process is the same for squadron and bondo putties. you can make it as thick or thin as you like it. actually, i believe tamiya primer is just extremely thinned putty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGVv0dJP8FQ&mode=related&search=

this guy does it, he thins the putty to make a rough-cast texture. he does this at about 4:18 into the video and it shows the putty, thinner, he stirs it around and dissolves it and then he brushes it on and that's that! you probably don't need to make it that thin just for filling seams, though.

July 18, 2007, 06:48:33 PM
Reply #76

Alpha 54

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I use acetone if you go to to swannymodels.com I think he has an article about it.

October 19, 2007, 09:06:18 AM
Reply #77

psycho_killer

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Does any one use me dissolved putty, hob about the result and application compare to tamiya basic putty. I'm having some problem sanding while removing seam lines in some difficult places, can Mr dissolved putty help?
Thanks
"Coming back from the dead doesn't mean you're getting better"

October 19, 2007, 09:45:12 AM
Reply #78

Marc

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You can make your own dissolved putty by adding a bit of acetone to it. It's the same stuff, only more liquid. Easy to apply with a brush on small areas, hence economic.
Please check the stickies before posting.

December 05, 2007, 05:41:56 PM
Reply #79

Zircor

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OK so my first putty attempt has resulted in Disaster (yes with a capital D).  I was using som Squadron White on a Gundam X 1/144 model (Gundam X Divide or somesuch).  The putty quite literally ATE THROUGH and MELTED the plastic, to the point where it was so soft it collapsed when I touched it.  I'm glad I had the wisdom to try new product/technique on a model that I don't really care about.  So glad I didn't just jump right in with an expensive kit like my Strike Freedom Full Burst.

I bought some Milliput from the hobby store the other day, so hopefully will get better results with it.