Author Topic: Putty Questions  (Read 55530 times)

January 30, 2008, 06:29:57 PM
Reply #80

AnatoleFarmond

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I used to live in Waterford... just go to Meijer, thats where I got my bondo. Also, for anyone who cares..

If you leave the bondo out for a long time, like two to three days, it gets very thick and it is really easy to shape, and just putting a little of the catalyst on the tips of your fingers and work it in to the putty it will work nicely. I had an old gyan I was modifying and it worked. My only problem -that I remember- with bondo is that it's kinda rough to saw and cut. However, it seems to be the most easily available putty.
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January 31, 2008, 02:34:00 AM
Reply #81

fulcy

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Retributions777
I used to live in Waterford... just go to Meijer, thats where I got my bondo. Also, for anyone who cares..

If you leave the bondo out for a long time, like two to three days, it gets very thick and it is really easy to shape, and just putting a little of the catalyst on the tips of your fingers and work it in to the putty it will work nicely. I had an old gyan I was modifying and it worked. My only problem -that I remember- with bondo is that it's kinda rough to saw and cut. However, it seems to be the most easily available putty.

I hope you were wearing gloves when you put a little of that catalyst on your finger tips and worked it into the putty...
« Last Edit: January 31, 2008, 02:34:28 AM by fulcy »

January 31, 2008, 12:09:39 PM
Reply #82

AnatoleFarmond

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Of corse! My mother is a nurse so I used to get free boxes of latex gloves.
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March 19, 2008, 05:08:05 PM
Reply #83

fredpekker

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Has anyone tried Bondo's Metal Plastic (901)? On their web site, its filed under adhesives/epoxies. Seems pretty similar to the Glazing Spot Putty except its a little harder to sand (which may not be a bad thing) and doesn't seem to shrink like the red stuff. Its in a black and gray tube and was hanging on the shelf next to the Glazing putty. Same price. Little bit bigger tube. So give it a try BONDO guys!

EDIT: After about 10 hrs. I'm noticing that this stuff is rock hard when it dries. Large globs will eat at styrene. And I forgot to mention this before, but its the same price as the Red Stuff.
« Last Edit: March 20, 2008, 02:28:58 AM by fredpekker »

April 09, 2008, 10:18:30 AM
Reply #84

AnatoleFarmond

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Got a question about miliput... is it safe to handle with bare hands? I read the packaging and it says it may irritate, and that was about it.
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April 09, 2008, 10:28:12 AM
Reply #85

FichtenFoo

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Milliput is very irritating IMO... but not for my hands. Never had a problem there. I find it irritatingly painful to work with. It's lumpy, hard to mix, doesn't blend well, etc.. etc... you're better off with Aves Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt.

April 09, 2008, 10:32:20 AM
Reply #86

AnatoleFarmond

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Well, it's what I have for right now.. So I might as well use it.  :razz: But it is safe to mold and mix with bare hands?

I would hate to have wasted 12 bucks.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2008, 10:33:30 AM by AnatoleFarmond »
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April 09, 2008, 01:23:56 PM
Reply #87

clee-cm

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I have used Millliput for a very longtime but I swear by it, yes it is a pain to work with in that it is hard to mix, and hard to blend, but once it sets it is very easy to sand. With Milliput, you need to take your time and work with small amounts at a time, us a knife and cut a small amount from each stick and mix it well. You will need to use your hands to roll it out, kneed and mix it together very well with your fingers. the more you mix the putty together, the softer it becomes, if you do it right, the putty will set in 3 hours.

Milliput is safe to use with your hands, but you will need to wash your hands after each use, the putty will start to set on your fingers.

I have used Microtool (this was repackaged red auto-body putty)and Squadron White putty, both are ok for filling in seams, if you want to go really cheep, plumbers A+B putty from the hardware store will work to, but Milliput is better.
« Last Edit: April 09, 2008, 01:25:05 PM by clee-cm »
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April 09, 2008, 01:26:43 PM
Reply #88

AnatoleFarmond

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Thanks, that answered my question and then some. Sounds like miliput is more good for making parts, and for extending parts. (Which is why I got it) Thanks for the tips.
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April 09, 2008, 02:20:13 PM
Reply #89

FichtenFoo

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Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/

April 10, 2008, 09:06:52 PM
Reply #90

AnatoleFarmond

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It looks just like miliput. XD
But... it comes in cool bottles! That may be worth buying a try, those look useful.

Also...
I used my miliput today, it's not very good for filling small details, think I may stick to other methods for that. I tried it out in various areas... so far, extending is looking like it's best use. And Foo, I can totally see why you hate this stuff, it takes forever to clean off your hands, it isn't very controllable, and it's just plain-old messy.
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April 11, 2008, 03:44:45 AM
Reply #91

FichtenFoo

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Yup... now get some of the others I mentioned and you'll never look back. :lol:

May 03, 2008, 09:00:16 PM
Reply #92

GlauG

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Going back to thinning Tamiya 2-part polyester putty, how does it usually affect the drying time?  I thinned some with lacuer thinner to fill in some gaps, and it's been slightly rubbery for about 3 hours...  It usually dries in half an hour or so.

May 06, 2008, 02:14:24 PM
Reply #93

Amalga

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Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/

It is. I have some of it and I'm using it on an Exia. It's convenient, but hardly anyone needs as many as six sticks which is what the TV spot offers (for $19.99). It's nothing above what you'd find at Ace Hardware for three bucks.
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May 06, 2008, 03:01:06 PM
Reply #94

GlauG

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Just to answer my own question for anyone else it might help, I left the thinned Tamiya poly putty alone for about 48 hours and it finally set properly.  It probably set faster than that, but I decided not to take any chances...

May 08, 2008, 11:53:44 AM
Reply #95

robofreak

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Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/

I just got some today! I'm going to test it out and I'll tell you how it works.

May 08, 2008, 06:16:21 PM
Reply #96

robofreak

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Mighty putty is interesting. I've never used an epoxy putty for anything, but found it to be useful. You only get 10 minutes to do whatever you need to do once it's mixed all the way. It does'nt smell as bad as I thought it would and the smell is like a stale fart. I don't recommend it for sculpting. I'm still new to the world of sculpting so using this was not a good idea. I somehow managed to pull off a figure of Lilith from Evangelion, but it does'nt look the way I had hoped it would. Practice makes perfect I guess.

After using it I now want to go get some Aves apoxy sculpt. I've heard it's the best!

May 11, 2009, 11:43:55 PM
Reply #97

Shin Matsunaga

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If you were to choose between Milliput and Mori Mori putties for sculpting purposes, which would you use?  I want to do some reshaping of a Gundam helmet but, as a newbie, don't want to get in over my head (pun intended).  I hear good things about both.  The Milliput seems the easiest to measure and mix.

What does everyone think?


May 12, 2009, 05:47:12 AM
Reply #98

FichtenFoo

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I avoid milliput like the plague. I have some and hate it. I'd go with Aves Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt or good old Bondo.

May 12, 2009, 05:52:33 AM
Reply #99

Marc

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I second that. Mori Mori should be more expensive and harder to find that Magic Sculpt.