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Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / MIG washes and filters
« on: December 21, 2007, 06:14:48 AM »
I've seen use of the Mig's filters in his FAQ and had a real woody to try them out..but was very difficult to find.  As a christmas wish, i walked into my LHS and found they had the Mig washes (not filters).  I call the local tank boy over and start quizzing him.

What the true diff between the filters and washes?
Can i use them "basically" interchangabley?
Whats the preferred application method?
The washes (at the LHS) were ~$20? and the filters (now in stock at Squadron) are ~$30 and are half the quantity....whats the big difference here?

The tank fella told me there was another worker of the LHS trying all the Mig material (both filter and wash) out (at home) and gave me his ph.number...I'll give him a little time to play, then quiz him.

In the meantime...does anyone here have experience with these items...or heard any info about the above questions?

Many thanks.

Model Talk / What do you like in a model show?
« on: January 13, 2006, 02:11:41 PM »
(yes i'm still alive...just looking for a house takes too much time)

You understand how far I travel.
I live in Lexington KY...have traveled to Pitt to see FF's show, to Atlanta, to Columbus OH, to Wonderfest.
I've seen bad...and good.
This may ramble and not have a straight message...but here are some thoughts.

- Its odd and unfair to judge your show (the Pitt show) against the Morgantown show.  In every respect your (the Pitt show) is better.  Better light (very valuable imo), better facilities, OPEN judging, better models.  So why do they have a higher turnout.  My guess...simple geography and ..."social interests".  Morgantown is in the WV  ...and could be a candidate for the hillbilly/redneck capital of the world (not trying to spam here...but there is truth to it).  Another show (south of Louisville) has a large showing of military models....know why?...its a stones' throw from Fort Knox and Gen'l Patton Museum.  From my understanding...Pitt doesn't have a local "inspiration well".  So, please don't try to compare...def apples and ....raisins

- Very few shows do it...but I love seminars.  Wonderfest has them by the hour (in 2 rooms...for 2 days)....prob 15-20 total.  I've seen most of them...and can be repetitive. But when i do go...there is always at least a dozen ppl interested and watching the teacher.  Sometimes (like at wonderfest) it may just be a fellow modeler who has a good deal of knowledge on a subject.  Sometimes, it could be celebrity modeler (once i watch mrosko talk about weathering and winter-cloud techniques at a show).  Maybe I'm speaking for myself...but I think most modelers have a thirst to learn they hobby.  I doubt any modeler likes to keep on using the same techniques over and over again.  A chance to learn something new is rarely passed up, imo.

- Fitch, from memory, I think your group could a little boost in the vendors area.  I realize getting them there and finances play a big part.  But I spend about 75% of my time at a show looking and buying.  There's plenty on the net....but when its there in front of you, you're twice as likely to buy it.  And often you'll see/buy stuff you hadn't considered before.  I suppose I'd recommend your club members attending as many shows as possible and solicity vendors to come to their show...maybe?  If they come up once and like it...they'll come up three more times even if the next 2 are a little disappointing.

- The 2 things I like about your alls show?  The light....Lot of window light coming in...and the light there was white...and low (not high ceilings).  Second, the round tables.  This may sound funny....but I like to see ALL sides of a model. Often this is difficult.  The use of round tables is best.  You can use long rows of narrow tables...but you have to go all the way around to look at the other side.  

- Even tho I did like the school...I am concerned...If your show grows a bit more...may have to look for new digs.  Wasn't crowded...but there wasn't any extra space being un-used.

- Often its a snowballing effect I feel too.  If you have a good seems to grow and grow ...due to word of mouth.  If the model entrees, model quality, model assortment, and vendors are just snow balls.  IMO

- I think the "bullpin" idea is tops.  Wonderfest offers a group build for the young small snap kits...and a slighty more mature version for tweens which adds in glue, sanding, putty, etc.  All the kits are donated for free (which is due to the scale of the event in the first place)....but if you find a local vendor, who's interested in some grand advertising...esply to young kids, its a good idea.  

- This is minor, imo...and you may have already used it in your (Pitt) contest, but having a theme for the contest.  Much like a group build builds a interest in ppl competing in a more focussed subject matter, a themed show offers prizes for entrees that fall into that catagory.  Themes may include "coming back from war", "life in the trenches", "the beginning of war".  These are broad enough that can be spread across several it miltary or sci-fi.  I never aim at that...but think its an interesting tool.

- Another that I rarely participate in, but seem to see plenty of ppl interested in, is raffles of kits, supplies.  

Guess thats enough for now..

Model Gallery / Gouf Custom - Urban Command
« on: November 18, 2005, 10:28:14 AM »
this gundam sponsored by..
when your MS has a thirst...try new blasting blueberry, apocolyptic apple, or strong-arming strawberry.

Model Gallery / Gouf Custom - Urban Command
« on: November 18, 2005, 08:56:06 AM »
thanks guys,

hoping it transports well this weekend....with all the extra parts...she's a little heavy and there are multiple areas that have "sensitive" areas that can be broken easily.

prob is over weathered in retrospect.  i'm still learning.  wanted to try out all these techniques.  but i had fun with it.  we likely never go THIS weathered again.

zeta feel?
the head is Dijeh influenced...not GM (ev'body thinks GM when they see it).  

the fluid filled caps are ammo for the wrist mounted tri-barrel gun (not sure the name).  look though the pics and you'll see that there is an operable door to the gun and one pic shows the Gouf "changing" the ammo for that gun/door/ammo.
is kinda "different".  STILL not sure i totally like it....but i like to experiement ....i like to try unorthodox instances like this.
not a big fan of "rust" on mecha.....cause i would think futuristic metals wouldn't weather like our current ones....likewise...perhaps some future weapons use a fluid/gel ammo?

i digress.

Model Gallery / Gouf Custom - Urban Command
« on: November 18, 2005, 06:44:39 AM »
for your review and comments:
(review the 2 gouf folders)


Model Gallery / POS battle droid and STAP (amt ertl)
« on: November 09, 2005, 05:25:13 AM »
if you'd be so kind,

which techiques do you use for the desired finishes?

do any of them have limitations?

(e.g. the "securing" of the pigments via "flooding" the surface with turpentine then letting dry, ...well, scares me.  my instinct does like the idea of leaving a solvent of that "heat" on a painted surface...long enought to evaporate)

just tell me about your knowledge on the subject, please.


Model Gallery / POS battle droid and STAP (amt ertl)
« on: November 08, 2005, 08:41:17 AM »
i've collected me a nice group of MIG pigments, but really haen't started using them.
I've read plenty, but am interested in YOUR take on how to secure them to the model?

do you apply, then never touch again,
use the drop of turpentine then wait,
or spray with a protective coat?

whats your experiences and your preferences...



Model Talk / Pavement Swatches
« on: June 12, 2005, 03:33:54 PM »
yeah...baking soda and stucco are my faves too.
both are nice...random.
i'm say...for something like 1/100, the stucco (sanded) makes a nice porous asphalt...and the baking soda a nice concrete.  if looking for a mirror smooth concrete surface...i may recommend the gold bond.  the pix for the c'starch may not show well...but it does have some so thin it almost picks up the brush strokes of the matte medium below.
the stucco and baking soda are can really see their texture...but feel, for true scale, they aren't appropriate until you get up into 1/72 scale.  just my 2 cents.  think of when you walk on smooth concrete (not a broom finish sidewalk). with your eyes just on your shoulders its hard to see lots of look at the size of the shoe on the figure in the pics for a little reference.  but sometimes, like on stage, its good to exaggerate a emotion, a look, a texture just for dramatic's sake, no?  to each their own

the ballast is a neat product...but fairly big for our typical scale.  i tried to put it in a blender to make it smaller...but didn't quite work.  gravel is the right idea.  perhaps mixed with some thinned out white glue into a slurry, it might make a nice asphalt for something in the 1/20 scale **wink** ,perhaps?

Model Talk / Pavement Swatches
« on: June 11, 2005, 02:10:32 PM »
In the near future I plan on preparing a display base that will include some paving...some concrete, some asphalt.  I had heard of several methods on producing scale concrete, but figured I try them all for comparison sake and to have swatches for future reference.

I've used 5 materials:
Fine Ballast: by woodland scenics (look for it in railroad area in hobby store)
Gold Bond:  was looking for plain talc powder (which comprises the majority of GB) but guess ev'thing has a brand name now (look for it at the grocery store)
Baking Soda (found at grocery)
Stucco: a matte medium produced by liquidtex that has small bits of sand in it thus mimicking stucco once dried (look for it at michael's)
Corn Starch (also at grocery)

Each swatch is typical styrene brushed over with liquidtex acyrlic medium matte.  Then a ample amount of the testing material thown on top and allowed to dry overnight.  A soft brush was used to remove all un-attached material and swatches were shaken and tapped for any loose material.  A small area of each swatch was then masked off and lightly sanded with 200 grit sandpaper, thus making a slightly smoother texture.  This 200 sanding shows on some of the rogher textures but doesn't on others.

Each swatch was painted with tamiya sky grey and given a misting of Testors Dullcote.


I was pleased that each gave a different texture, and believe all have uses in some scale or use.  

The items shown adjacent each swatch are a US dime and a small figure and military vehicle in HO (1:87 ) scale.  

I'd like to hear of others experiences with these materials and/or other methods and materials to reproduce scale paving.


GB1: SAFS vs PKA / GB1: Finished » The Legend of Bloodwind (SAFS)
« on: June 08, 2005, 05:10:00 AM »
i thought you may have thinned it out a bit?  i have the can with the brush attached to the lid...and whenever i pull the brush out of the creates a very long thin string (think hot mozzarella).  
i looked at my results last nite...not bad.  def need to consider what scale i'm working out,thus what kind of stippling i'll use.  found when you put it on thin, its a tad harder to start to pull up (its not the effort of the removing...just getting a starting edge), especially if you don't have some nice grippy rubber (or something akin to that texture) and it's hard to see where you've applied it and where you haven't.
think i'll still thin my mixes out but at half the amount i had before.
i kinda wish it had a color to it, so i could see where i have and haven't applied it to the model (DURING the process of application).  would be nice case you do two masks over another (think seeing paint over primer over bare metal).

thanks for the further explaination FF (btw,...thats gotta be the roughest looking brush i've ever seen)

GB1: SAFS vs PKA / GB1: Finished » The Legend of Bloodwind (SAFS)
« on: June 07, 2005, 07:38:04 AM »
Thumbs up.
back to the masking for a sec...
once i saw the effect achieved with the rubber cement, i automatically thought Slave I (I recently picked up one).  I knew the looking of the masking...nice and scratchy and chipping (without obviously looking like the salt technique).  Looked up the link and saw it had a thinner ..PERFECT!  all the other masks i've used are so thick, you can't get a jagged rough egde due to their viscosity.  I ran out and picked up the cement and thinner last night...applied...and painted over.  Haven't looked at the results yet.  

But was wondering if FF could give us a little more detail on the actual process.  How thin was your mix (assuming you did thin it out), did you stiple or broom motion, and did you clean up the brush by just straight dipping it into the solvent?

A mini tutorial on that would be superb.

Nice work again.

Model In-Progress / Scratch-Built HoverTank
« on: June 04, 2005, 12:18:30 PM »
looked thru....nice work...two really stood out.
one, i got a kick out of identifying all the pieces it was made of.

lotsa gundam kits....funny

GB1: SAFS vs PKA / GB1: Group Build #1 Guidelines & Sign-up
« on: April 29, 2005, 03:00:00 PM »
noticed there were 1/16 scale and 1/20 scale models...we keeping to just one...or we able to cross scales?

Model Talk / Lessons learned
« on: April 16, 2005, 04:14:10 PM »
lotsa questions...hopefully i can answer each.

- "better" than tapping putty on?  well, depends on what you're going for.  i think the tapping will produce cast iron look (if done fairly wet) and more of a ...stalagmite/sticky gum look (if the tapping keeps going as it sets up).  the stucco produced a more....porous look.  very much like real stucco or somewhat like grout, but at a finer scale.

-not exactly sure what you mean by distressed. (i know the definition of distressed, but not sure how you're using it).  its CREATING a texture...not changing another.  I suppose you could "dig" a small ditch in the plastic and thinly apply that into it, causing a "scarred" look....or perhaps apply it somewhat like zimmerit?

-if you paint correct, the effect should be enhanced with painting and further finishing (washes, drybrushing, etc).  only if the paint is incorreclty applied too thickly (perhaps by handbrushing) do i feel the effect will be lost.

- keep WHAT all together?  perhaps you're referring to when i tried to spray on the super-thinned stucco? if so, you may have a good idea.  however.  when i did super thin didn't produce nearly as a dense effect.  when dried it provided a ...slightly salty kitchen counter top feel.  i sincerely doubt the stucco medium can be sprayed.  

on a side note.  i think i'm going to attempt the mr. surfacer trial again...this time however i'm going to airbrush a thin coat on then stipple it.  hopefully, the coat will be more even, thinner, and less of the surface details will be lost.  wish me luck.

Model Talk / Lessons learned
« on: April 15, 2005, 07:54:24 PM »
this may ramble..and seem to digress..but all does come around.

starting the work on my gouf and had some questions (to myself) about how i was going to finish the MS.  One was about using a texture on the "beaten" parts (feet, knees, etc) and two, to try my first attempt with Alclad.

I had read that most good metallic paints need a perfect surface under them as well need a gloss coat of black enamel.

For the texture I was going to try the cast texture produced by smearing on Mr. Surfacer 500 and texturizing it.  Before I could get under way, I read (somewhere) about Liquidtex producing texture mediums.  I went to my local Michaels...looked around I bought a jar of the Stucco flavor (about $8.50..but enough to last a lifetime).

For the metallics I thought I would do a cross reference swatch that showed different metallics on differnt subbases.  I had done swatch tests with a variety of primers (due to earlier frustration with paint chipping and realizing I needed a good bite into the plastic to prevent this, due to my use of acrylics).  Here is the swatch :

There are some abbreviations...Tam=tamiya, MM = model masters, Alum=aluminum, enam=enamel.

Without a doubt, of all the squares, the one that jumps out at me is the Alclad polished aluminum on Tamiay Surface Primer.  It seems even better than that Alclad on bare plastic.  Other observations:  the tamiya metallics look like flake metallics used for car paint jobs in comparison to the Alclad, the darker metallics are not so dependent on the light/dark of the subbase.

lastly,  The MM aluminum shown looks better than actually is.  The bottle I was using was fairly old and I shoulda tossed it.  But I tried to salvage it with some extra thinner.  In my experience, they don't produce such big metallic flakes as Tamiya.

Rewind for a bit.

While in the midst of a few days of making the metallic swatch, I was priming my pieces.  I had bought a few cans of the Tamiya Spray ....being impressed with it before.  I live in a small apartment, but have a professional 3M respirator.  I had to keep the windows closed (and a cool temperature) due to the ill effects humidity can render on laquer finishes.  I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed...about 2 1/2 cans, ...prob 60% of the totaly kit needed to my dismay.  I noticed some powder building up on my modeling table.  I was the blowback from the primer.   I soon realized it was ALL OVER THE APARTMENT.  Like a layer of dust that had accumulated over a year.  fine white powder.  I was ....sad, to say the least.  I swore to myself I'de never use the product again (unless I had a spray booth).  This however was before I saw the results of the Alclad on the Tamiya spray.  soooooo, i've come to the conclusion:  Only use the Tamiya spray if going to use alclad over it, otherwise a gray enamel primer.  Second, I need to find a different place to spray when I do use the Tam primer.


I tried the Mr. Surfacer ...500 and 1000
the pic doesnt' do it justice.  Its nice.  But opted not to use it.  It is a somewhat thick application and the pieces I were considering had some finer detail I wasn't ready to cover up.

I also tried the Liquidtex Stucco texture medium
I was impressed with this stuff.
the picture shows the right half applied (smeared like the Mr. Surfacer application) while the left half shows it cut with some tap water.  The top half is then showed being lightly sanded with 300 grit s'paper.  The application was thick (hence I declined this use again).  I tried to super thin it down and spray it through my airbrush.  I thick I thinned it down too much (fearing the clog in my airbrush).  It stuck to the item airbrushed but was easily rubbed off afterwards.  I feel the the answer is to thin it down and apply by smearing.  I feel the top left of the swatch is the best.  Think it would be perfect for ...maybe 1/35 - 1/75 concrete....really really close.

I hope I've helped.

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / cast iron look
« on: April 11, 2005, 04:37:27 AM »
half a step ahead of ya.
i kinda did like he did...except:
i used a mcdonald's coffee stirrer.  nice broad paddle to spread it on...then once spread on i tapped (stipled with a paddle?) till i got some raised texture.  trick is to know when to stop...all of a sudden it starts to set up and the stippling starts getting sticky and makes hairs.  takes practice.  i tried it with surfacer 500 and 1000.  both textures are looking good...but wondering how appropriate they will be for 1/100 scale.  i'll try sanding them tonite.

i also tried the liquidtex stucco texture medium.  i was skeptical.  i paddled some on for one trial ...and then super thinned it down and spread it on for a second trial.  checked this morning.  i'm liking it.  i'm think'g i can thin it down enuf to spray...then with a some 400-600 grit sanding.  we'll have a winner.  i'll send some pics to ya FF and you can post them (if you like) alongside your own pix? (My site isn't as well organized as yours, hence I'd host myself).

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / cast iron look
« on: April 10, 2005, 10:37:34 AM »
has anybody tried this technique?
(sorry if the link doesn't work....go to his making of 1/16 tamiya king tiger...turret section...8th pic down...his cupola)
its the feel/look of cast iron..
this fella has used thinned putty...i want this badly...but am afraid to try.
is it brushed on.....smeared on then roughed?
whats the process.
i went to michaels.....found this acrylic matte medium stucco texture (i found out that liquidtex makes all sorts of textured mediums: glass beads, fibers, lava rock!).  might try this stuff....would be sweet if i can think it enuf and spray it though a wide open airbrush.
thats the thing.
i wan't this rough look...but if i'm handbrushing it on...i'm still afraid it will get TOO clunky.
kinda hypocritical...i want something....random and messy look...but not too messy.
i know.
anyway...anybody got any feedback?

found more...go to his making of 1/35 tiger....sanding page.
shows him spreading it on...but that looks crazy....just...just seems like there very little control in that...and how do you do curved surfaces...both convex and concave?

Model In-Progress / Gouf Custom - Urban Command (WIP)
« on: April 06, 2005, 03:14:17 PM »
the bulk..
def can see it now
over the snout...and at the forehead also.

good eye.

Model In-Progress / Gouf Custom - Urban Command (WIP)
« on: April 06, 2005, 09:45:05 AM »
GM SNIPER?...hmm...don't see it...but cool.

yeah...thing with ..i wouldn't call this scratch...more like a symphony of diff pieces.  but all the diff crazy colors form diff kits....makes it difficult (at least for me) to visualize the finished product.  I took some black & white pics to help me visualize...and will likely really be helped when its primed one color.  

yeah...detail heavy.

again..was more of an exercise for me...def think i'm going for a super simple mod next time...think'g SD GP-02...with real legs...we'll see.

Model In-Progress / Gouf Custom - Urban Command (WIP)
« on: April 06, 2005, 04:23:12 AM »
totally realized how busy it was.
i kinda made it piecemeal....working on the legs, then the weps...then the arms, etc.
i just wanted him to all these options....only after the total picture is complete do i see my folly.  perhaps when i display him he'll never carry all his shit at one time?....perhaps i can have some of it loaded on vehicles on the display base.

thanks for the kind words.
the head is something i'm proud of...took the most time per volume of work.  not sure if pics show adequately, but there is a small cannon on the side of his head with a snake line going to his shoulder.  I saw a picture on a site of an interpretation of a dijeh head...and went from there, with some embelishments.


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