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Messages - Grail

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21
Did you get a moisture trap? Sounds like the symptoms of moisture in the line.
It definitely isn't your brush. I have used that one before and it's nice action. You can have a similar problem if you mix paint too thin as well.

Could even be the compressor depending on how it runs.
If there is no spare tank, and the compressor was really cheap, you can get uneven air flow.
I would probably say moisture off the top of my head though.

PS.
Tamiya metal is really a weird paint I find. I don't put it through my brushes much anymore.( and I use mostly Tamiya paint )
For metals I use other paints and save the tamiya metals for highlights and detail stuff. Many will disagree about the way it flows, but it is also way out of scale most of the time too.

22
The Inner Geek and MoteOfDust,
Most of what your asking really depends on how much you are willing to commit to the hobby of your choice. Obviously, the more your are into it, you'll want some at least mid range level equipment to get a nice look. That said, I have seen a prodigy or 2 around here that can pull it off using anything, but most of us aren't that lucky.
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I wanted to see if anyone had opinions about using a CO2 bottle instead of compressor for airbrushing?
I would say that it would be like a trajectory profile diagram in practice.  ^_^   :razz:  Combined with the inconvenience and price over the long run... I went to the compressor.  I also had a blue 120psi setup way back.. loud as hell and really crazy. Again, if you are serious, a one time small investment can set you up with something night and day different.

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what do I mix with the citadel paint, 91 isopropyl alcohol?
 I only mix these with water and I only hand paint with them..
In my opinion through an ab it would be like painting with glue.

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i was just going to use a hair dryer on low and cold
Don't see why this would be a problem. In the tutorial section here fichtenfoo actually posts how to airbrush and dry with the brush itself.
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something about the airbrush my noobly self wouldn't even know to recognize
It's pretty much all here these days..  
http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?board=23.0
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

I highly recommend checking out Hobbylinc for both of you guys if you look for equipment. They have the right prices and a lot of different level tools. http://hobbylinc.com






23
Model Gallery / Re: Shinkai 6500 finished
« on: May 16, 2012, 09:29:24 PM »
That is some fine paint work. Love the basket..
 8)

24
Model In-Progress / Re: Dark's WIP
« on: May 16, 2012, 09:15:06 PM »
No need to concede. Only " the need for speed "  :lol:  Apparently I have been watching Top Gun again..

I think in terms of painting models and such, your rules/definitions of zen are fine.  I don't think there is a different way to describe zen/your painting technique, and I'm not a workflow warrior, so I think what you are doing and describing is good. The results speak for themselves and all done your stuff looks " lit", which is what I define as Zeneriffic.

Rook : Something like this seems like what I described in my last post. Lots of texture work, as in, creating 3d layers of texture and color etc and an "ambient occlusion" shader for the shading in the recesses.. and rendering them out.  I would guess this is 1 light, probably a "directional" or "point" light and sitting in a 3d scene that is lit by Global Illumination with shadows turned on.
(maybe 3 point lighting scenario?, but I'm not sure.) In very basic terms, GI is like turning on a setting that simulates the sun, or moon, or some type of environment,
or extracting light information for your scene from an image " HDRI" etc..
Not always easy to tell as the results are varied.  
For example, this guy has some sick photo real lighting.  :twitch: This is CG by the way... http://www.mikeanash.com/ Pretty awesome modeler too.
You can see the background images he is using for "GI " or "HDRI" to extract light in the photo for his 3d scene.  
(I'm aware I'm generalizing through this post for all of you lighters out there)

I think Rick may post here? I have never seen a wip from him. I usually can't get my jaw closed to check out anything else after I look at his stuff.  :twitch:

No more novels for me.  I quit nerding.  :-) Eagerly waiting to see more of your paint. After the Taco, I want to see more  8)
Cheers dude.



25
Model In-Progress / Re: Dark's WIP
« on: May 15, 2012, 11:05:57 PM »
Those are great links, thanks!  
I totally agree with both of you even if you both are waaay too obsessed with semantics   :D  :razz:  

I think both of your points have a lot of merit. MIG dvds for example. I have them too and yes, the modulation description is presented in the way you mentioned. I just believe it's a good way to help somebody get on their way to doing their own method. 
After watching the Jeremie Bonamant video, pretty much looks exactly like modulation techniques to me though?

Eavy metal miniature book is beginner,stylized, etc, but one of the few books out there that you can really see what's going on for people that don't know a place to start. I also agree with Will in that Zenithal isn't realistic lighting really either. I think it's all kind of stylized.
Which is also why I referenced some of the items in my post.
For example..

I also have a slightly different opinion about the 3d render stuff on you mentioned on IM. None of that is zenithal anything really.  
It does strike a balance though. like.. (it must look real, even if it's cheated, but must also look cool, even if you must cheat it.)

3D is usually several layers of baked in textures simulating rgb, specular, ambient occlusion, diffuse, etc.. then, literally,
a real world lighting setup is created in 3d. Can be anything from 1 crappy spotlight, to a simple but effective Global Illumination setup using the renderer of choice. 
The grey shaded renders you are seeing on those sights are often simply the occlusion shader only, or occlusion and GI.  
You COULD argue that you can paint zenithal into your textures though, with some software packages.

Back on track. I do love the icy smooth blue gradient. I could give less of a crapithal how it's technically defined, but I do love it  :D  :razz:

ON that note. Time for me to kick my own ass for nerding out like that, and get back to modeling  ;)

PS. Check out Ricks site if you haven't already. This guy can paint some convincing everything. I love his stuff.
http://dragonstoothminiatures.net

Cheers guys.

  


26
Model Gallery / Re: Junkbot.
« on: May 15, 2012, 10:29:55 PM »
Cool.  8) I like.

Sweet forum name. Love that story. It is going to be a movie soon.

27
Model Gallery / Re: Non-scale Metal Slug Tank
« on: May 15, 2012, 10:25:13 PM »
Sickness!  8)

28
Model Gallery / Re: [Armored Core] Interior Union Y01 Tellus
« on: May 15, 2012, 10:24:19 PM »
What Hunter Rose said.   8) 
Love the colors. It looks nice and clean too.

I totally agree about AC, until AC For Answer. More like " NO Answer" . ..  I loved AC 2 and sort of 3 though. Love the AC designs too.
I also agree Koto kits can give some ass pain.  ^_^  They often have a ton of seam lines too. Great detail though.

Yup, great work dude!

29
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Second option is to paint all pieces at one time
Sorry, I wasn't clear. That's pretty much what I meant.
I prep all parts at once that are going to be the same color, and mix enough paint to cover them all.  I know, it is a lot more laborious, but I feel like I get a better result. Don't sweat clear coats. Just spray them all over a hot wheels car or an old toy to practice.
Future is pretty awesome right out of the bottle.
Looks like the yellow has a nice shine to it already.  8)

Check the color wheels that Fichtenfoo and I posted a while back in the concepts thread.
It's a great way to use complimentary colors to help you choose highlights like the lenses you were talking about.

Paint looks nice and smooth. Metals are looking nice too.
Have a great trip.

 

30
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That part scares me most.
The gloss? or Weathering?

Looks awesome clean anyhow.  8)

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It turned out that it got a slightly lighter shade.
I have had this happen. Most people have a hard time getting the yellow bright while underneath it's dark, but I have had it go lighter too.
My solutions was planning. Now whenever I decide that a large area is going to be a uniform color, I mix enough paint that It covers the whole area without having to re-mix.

Great stuff man. Good luck on the rest.

31
Model In-Progress / Re: Dark's WIP
« on: May 14, 2012, 11:18:38 PM »
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I've been trying to get this zenithal lighting technique down as I've actually tried it on my Zeta Evolve.  I guess it just takes practice to get it down as go as you do it.

Not sure if you already know this ?..but somebody probably doesn't so I figure I'll yammer  ^_^  :razz:
It does take practice.. still working on that.. but.. Zenithal lighting is also Modulation in the armor world.
A good method is to imagine (or use) real world lighting, and paint from your dark shadows up to your lights
using color gradients so it isn't just black to a color.

A great way to see this easily and have it right next to you while you model/practice, is this book.
http://www.amazon.com/Paint-Citadel-Miniatures-Rick-Priestley/dp/1841543667
(Not sure why it's so expensive here?, I got one pretty cheap)
 It REALLY explains the technique well with accurate pics.
Even though the book is mostly hand painting, it's worth it, as you can take the technique right from hand painting through airbrushing.

I don't have the link handy but Mig modeling videos are pretty spectacular for this too.
Even shows you how to maintain air brushes and use pigments.

Also, I noticed in the gundam world, shading sometimes is opposite, which may also throw you off?
Sometimes people paint darks on the edges where there would, in reality, be bright specular/gradient type light.
I say stylized is great. Anybody should do what they like... but in Darks for example, his light direction is fairly accurate all around.

By the way, this blue gradient is also looking pretty sick spectacular. Really nice highlights Dark.
Nice like ice.


32
Model In-Progress / Re: Ma.K Polar Bear and Krote Dio
« on: May 13, 2012, 01:30:14 PM »
Nice!
This is great wip stuff again dude. Engine parts look cool, like the attention given under the foot, Love the dynamic pose you are going for.

I do the same thing with the sponge for pitted metals and dried mud base. I'll have to remember that for tarnished metal too.
Makes me wish I hadn't put my Krote up as a contest prize  ^_^



33
Love the yellow. Great custom colors. Looking really good man.

If I had a say I would vote for very subtle weathering, but this looks really cool clean.

 8)

34
Model Talk / Re: The Random Interesting Models Thread
« on: May 12, 2012, 06:43:23 PM »
Didn't really know where to put reference specific stuff ?
Anyhow, some great Falcon/SW ref for all you Jedi Junkies  :D

Medium sized pics, but great reference.
http://fullscalefalcon.com/

35
Hey Frank. I'll post this in a ref section here, but I thought you may like.
I sure as hell could have used this reference when I was doing  my tiny Falcon :)

Medium sized images, but great Falcon/SW reference.

http://fullscalefalcon.com/reference

Cheers.


36
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not saying that I was slamming the brush on the kit, but I could have been more delicate.
Yeah, I have "thought" that I was using appropriate pressure and had the same thing happen.

Crappy oils and real light pressure helped me out. Now I do that technique on matte surfaces with no problem.
I'm not too shy with the orderless turp either.
As a little fix up, any obvious screw up paint spots that look a little lame I turn into blaster burns with pigments.  ^_^

Glad to know something is working for you.


37
Model Gallery / Re: Thunderbirds Mole (Aoshima/IMAI 1/72)
« on: May 11, 2012, 11:55:21 AM »
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(honestly puppets freak me out a bit. I blame the one on Solid Gold, Madame)

Holy crap! Haven't heard about "Madame" probably SINCE solid gold.. damn I hated that show.. always meant the end of my cartoons. That and "Menudo on ABC."  I can't believe you even said that. Talk about taking me back..

Again, love the paint work on this kit.

38
Model In-Progress / Re: Ma.K Polar Bear and Krote Dio
« on: May 11, 2012, 11:46:33 AM »
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And I'm amazed you could find time to comment on my WIP with all the cool WIP's (huh huh cool whip!) you've got going on

Well, your work is definitely worth commenting on. I WISH that those wips were all that was taking up my time. I recently stayed up for about 62 hrs straight working at my day job with no breaks. 1 day without any food.
(funny part is I'm not at all exaggerating. Really starting to hate my day job and trying to get out)

I hope to get on those kits more, and I'm working on a piece in 3d for a model company too that I really want to spend some more time on.

Anyhow, not to derail, love where you're going with this.. great stuff.


39
if you are "practicing" with no intention of doing a final paint job on the kit you are using, then I suggest any old toy from a garage sale or anywhere else. Even a bunch of scrap plastic. Don't bother paying money to keep practicing.

HG kits are great for starters and pretty cheap but your best bet is old revell kits to practice on. VERY cheap.

This site has a ton of cheap products and a lot of quality products at reasonable rates.
http://www.hobbylinc.com/Plastic_Models

40
I found that a shiny surface just makes it more like a wash or pin wash. I feel like the point is to keep it matte.
What I do in a case like this where the surface is supposed to look hard like metal is buff it lightly. It allows you to get a slight bit of polish on the surface to move paint around and it still looks matte. Or more to the point, like shiny hard surfaces under paint.

I have also used satin coats, but I'm surprised you got the same look with gloss. I do the same as fichtenfoo and use matte most of the time. 
Have you tried applying the oils really lightly too? As in light pressure? I found if I hit the wood part f the brush, I was dotting too hard for example.

ANyhow, glad it's working for ya JF. :)

Actually, one more thing I did that worked in the past was buying crappier paint. ( it doesn't stick as well and has crappy pigmentation, great for weathering )

Cheers.

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