Messages

61

Model Gallery / Re: SD GP 02A Complete

« on: June 26, 2007, 05:00:04 PM »

Not too bad for a first model. What type of paint did you use? The yellow seems a bit thick on the second line on the shoulder. Also, the panel lines were a bit messy, most noticeable on the shield. You might also want to work on cleaning up the seams like the one on the back of the head.

62

Model In-Progress / Re: Sazabi MG

« on: May 09, 2007, 11:35:46 AM »

Thanks for the info! I realized upon further inspection of your pictures that the smaller rod of the actuator actually goes through the top of the actuator block. I was wondering if this is the only way. To illustrate my point, here are some pictures of the MG God Gundam I'm working on.

Actuator 1

Actuator 2

Actuator 3

Actuator 4

The first two pictures are of the leg in the fully upright position while the last two are when the leg is fully bent (in like a kneeling position). As you can see, the top block actually moves along a groove and only the bottom part is actually fixed. Is there any wat to still do the modification so that the metal cylinders will be able to move AND pull the top block along. Currently, the metal rods that I'm using are from nails that I sawed to length and filed down. They somehow managed to work (they pull the top block down) even though they are not fixed on the top block. I was hoping to find a better method so that I could have full functioning actuators and have them look cool.

Sorry for the thread hi-jack...

63

Model In-Progress / Re: Sazabi MG

« on: May 08, 2007, 09:14:31 PM »

Those are some nice actuators. I've actually been wanting to replace the actuators with metal ones for the MG model I'm currently working on. I tried just painting it at first, but I found the plastic and the paint didn't look quite right (that, and the fact that I had some problems with the paint scraping off due to a tight fit).

However, I was having some problems trying to replace the actuator with a metal piece. The model is the MG God Gundam, and the actuators I replaced with metal are the ones on the legs. I assume other MG models including the Sazabi also have this issue, but I wasn't sure how to handle the issue when the actuator pulls out all the way and then will pull the base of the actuator along with it as it extends. I've seen people replace the actuators with two pieces of aluminum/copper tubing, but I never understood how they would solve the problem of moving the end of the actuator (unless they don't actually move that part).

Since you have such a nice actuator where the plastic base part is still attached, could you explain how you made it (maybe show some extra in-progs of how to make it if it's not too much trouble)?

Thanks again.

64

Model Gallery / 1/100 Legend Gundam

« on: February 26, 2007, 05:21:50 PM »

Looks pretty good. The finish looks very smooth. The only thing that I can see is that there seems to be still some nubs left on the feet. Other than that I think you did very well with seams and everything.

65

Model In-Progress / MG Super Strike Freedom Gundam E.V.O. Ver

« on: February 05, 2007, 08:19:15 PM »

Nah..I think vic's is much more unique with the cutting apart of pieces, cutting holes, etc. The one in Hobby Japan was pretty much just a straight, clean build of the MG Strike Freedom. Nice work vic! I think it turned out really well and looks a lot better than the initial stage.

66

Model Talk / Upcoming Gunpla (Post it here, other threads will be locked)

« on: January 30, 2007, 10:38:49 PM »

I actually read about the GHUC GP02A MLRS in the Feb. 07 issue of Hobby Japan. It looked pretty awesome. I still think that I prefer the extra large bazooka though. I'm actually in the process of building the MG GP02A, my first MG model.

67

Model Gallery / LFO Nirvash typeZERO -GekkoGo Colors-

« on: January 15, 2007, 10:57:42 PM »

The color scheme looks pretty good aside from the entire back side being black. It might have helped to make it mostly white with some other colors instead of it being just black. It might have helped to invest some time masking instead of doing some of the parts freehand since the circular patterns on the sholders look kind of messy. Also, isn't there the trick where you can do panel lines and then just clean up where you went outside the lines like in FF's guide?

68

Kit Specifics / Tallgeese Question

« on: October 16, 2006, 07:34:25 PM »

when i was building my HG Tallgeese III I stumbled upon Keita's site and saw his. I was really amazed at his since mine came out so much worse (it was my first model and I built it OOB). The actual HG Tallgeese III suffers from a host of problems just because it's a HG. There are quite a few seams to deal with and I really dont like the beam rifle on the right and the lack of it being able to be put in a good pose. Otherwise, it's not too bad. The pose that I have mine at right now is similar to the first one on Keita's site under "Tallgeese III Photogallery", except that mine does not articulate to that degree  .

69

Model Gallery / Mg Griffon Flight Type

« on: September 04, 2006, 09:34:43 PM »

Yeah...that gloss def. looks good. It almost looks like automotive paintjob. Very nicely done!

70

Model Gallery / Blaze ZAKU Phantom Dearka Custom

« on: September 04, 2006, 09:18:17 PM »

The seams are still visible...they could use some work. It seems the paint has some texture to it, but the gold looks nice. Try taking the pictures with a tripod and without flash (not having a bunch of stuff in the background helps too).

71

Dioramas / Rods for displays

« on: June 29, 2006, 11:25:07 AM »

Thanks FF! I believe our HobbyTown actually carries those, so I think I'll get it from them. Thanks for clarifying how to attach it to the model as well since I was about to drill a huge hole in the model - one that would be the diameter of the rod. Good thing I waited!

72

Dioramas / Rods for displays

« on: June 29, 2006, 03:57:01 AM »

I googled a bit on how to bend and shape acrylic rods and the only thing that I've been finding is using wire resistance heaters, heating to above the TG of 105, making bends, and then annealing at a lower temperature. I dont have that type of supplies, so would it be possible using other heat sources such as blow torches or something?

73

Dioramas / Rods for displays

« on: June 28, 2006, 09:38:24 PM »

So ummm...I was thinking of making a base for a Gundam model I'm working on but I'm not quite sure about the rod. It appears that the most common to use are brass and plastic rods. I can find brass rods (hollow), but I'm not quite sure on what type of plastic rods (specific type of plastic?). Also, are most of the plastic rods able to be bent upon heating so that you can create a rod like what FF did for the Reginae? One last thing - about what diameter rod would be needed to support the weight of a Gundam model (1/100 HG for mine right now, but also MGs for future reference)?

74

Painting/Priming / Airbrushing and paint

« on: June 27, 2006, 08:46:12 PM »

I checked out the surface of the paint, and it feels as smooth as flat paint should be. I followed your tutorial and pretty much added 3 parts paint to 2 parts thinner; would it be better to go with the 50/50? I think the problem is the overspray since I applied the paint in relatively thin layers so that it would come out smooth. How do you be precise, avoid overspray, and not spray so close that the paint will splatter?

Also, I've already painted two layers on some of the parts and ran out after one layer on the rest of the parts that needed white. Would it still be OK to just spray the 95-90% white over the rest (after I get some more paint) or would the color be slightly different because of the difference in number of coats?

I also wanted to make sure that even though multiple pieces get skewered at once, they are all painted individually, right?

Thanks for the tips though FF.

75

Painting/Priming / Airbrushing and paint

« on: June 27, 2006, 06:04:43 PM »

I was airbrushing today (my first time airbrushing a model) and pretty much used up 2/3 a bottle of Tamiya flat white (23 mL size) on half a model  - the HG 1/100 Tallgeese III. I'm painting it based off the colors on the box, so more than 1/2 the model is white. I was wondering if I am wasting too much paint or something when I'm airbrushing. I skewered all the pieces, but when I paint I pick up each individual skewer so that I don't get overspray on the other pieces. I'm trying to follow the FF airbrush guide and apply it on in layers with the ratio of 3 parts paint: 2 parts alcohol. I was only able to get like 2 coats on the pieces using 2/3 of the bottle. I have a feeling that I may be doing something wrong.

76

Tools / Tools for sanding

« on: June 26, 2006, 06:34:36 PM »

Just an update....good news! I took a trip to the local HobbyTown and found this tool by Squadron that's called a "Seam Scraper" and works really well. Costs about $10, but I would say it's worth it. The tip of it is about 1/4 inch wide and is good for small areas.

I was also finally able to start airbrushing today and I just wanted to thank you FF for your excellent tutorials. The only thing is that one of the pieces fell and some of the paint came off so I will have to repaint that piece tomorrow, lol. Oh yeah...so when the piece dropped and a bit of the paint came off, would it be better to just strip the paint, sand down that portion, or just paint right over it?

77

Tools / Tools for sanding

« on: June 26, 2006, 04:24:41 AM »

Oh, ok. It's just that I was apprehensive about doing that since I'm a beginner and did not want to try too many things to start out (This is my first model that I'm sanding, puttying, and painting).

78

Tools / Tools for sanding

« on: June 26, 2006, 03:52:00 AM »

Yeah...I actually read that a while ago as well. I might try that out. Thanks for the tips guys!

79

Tools / Tools for sanding

« on: June 25, 2006, 09:54:41 PM »

I've read that thread already and have done a search on the forums for anything that has to do with sanding. I've tried using a hobby knife to scrape off as much as I can but I was just wondering if there is a better way than "careful sanding". I'm still not sure if there are any better tools or if a tool can be made similar to the sanding stick. Just to clarify, the area I'm trying to sand is in the middle of the bottom of the foot and there are quite a few rectangular beveled areas on the bottom of the foot as well as two semi circular areas.

80

Tools / Tools for sanding

« on: June 25, 2006, 06:22:04 PM »

Hi, I'm new to building Gundam models and I ran into some trouble during the sanding. I am currently working on a HG 1/100 Tallgeese III (I decided to start out with a simpler, cheaper model). I did not have that much trouble using a sanding stick with 400 grit sandpaper and Tamiya basic putty for most of the seams. However, on the bottom of the foot is where I had trouble with sanding down the excess plastic when I glued the two halves together. The places that I am trying to sand have a lot of detail around them such as raised or recessed areas. I am wondering if there are any good tools or ways of sanding those areas.