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Messages - gamerabaenre

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Model Gallery / Haruhi Suzumiya done..
« on: November 12, 2006, 12:02:54 AM »
Ok, I was able to update my website with some pictures.  I finished the other bunny girl.  
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/1_7_haruhis.htm
http://www.gamerabaenre.com/images/haruhi_group%20007_jpg.jpg

MOD EDIT: IMAGES TOO WIDE.

22
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / sanding angles
« on: November 10, 2006, 10:26:20 AM »
Wrap sand paper around the files you use and get the major sanding done with that.  Then you can do the fine sanding with just folded up high grit sandpaper.  Since with higher grit sandpaper, you don't have to worry about eating away the plastic and having the sandpaper eat away at the shapes.

Most inward sloping areas are the true tests of patience and ingenuity for a modeler.  For some seams that are in hard to reach places, I've given into just cutting a thin piece of styrene, and gluing it on top of a seam or defect.

23
Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting
« on: November 10, 2006, 09:42:56 AM »
Quote
finally, on removing seams on guns/rifles/cannons: is the technique REALLY to just apply a thin line of tamiya cement on the seam running through the gun, and then slowly sand sand sand? it doesn't seem to work for me. i could just be incompetent though.

I usually have the gun not completely snapped together when I add the glue.  Having a small gap, I actually apply a good amount of tamiya extra thin cement to the sides of the gap, then press the part together (make sure you face away from the part.. I had an unfortunate accident once while doing this and glue got into one of my eyes... not a fun experience)  Then use one of those paper clip thingys, clamp the down on the part and watch as plastic oozes out from the seam.  Feel free to apply a little more cement along the seam to help this along.  Let this assembly sit for at least three hours, longer is better to ensure that everything cures.  Then lightly sand away the seam.  Sometimes there are small pockets of air that cause mini seams, just paint in some Mr Surfacer 500 along this area, let it cure, and then lightly sand this smooth and the seam is gone.

Quote
gamerabaenre: your desert kampfer, it's going to be copied. :P

Cool, hope you do a better job than I did :)  *sigh*.. just reminds me that I need to finish the damn thing...

24
Model In-Progress / Haruhi Suzumiya X 2
« on: November 10, 2006, 08:49:22 AM »
Heh no problem.  I'll post it here in case others want to know.
1 layer: Primed with Mr Resin Surfacer Primer (wet sanded smooth)
2nd layer: Finisher's (Fairly new japanese brand of lacquer paints - REALLY good stuff.. after one light mist tacky coat, you can wet spray it and it'll dry/cure in minutes) pure black - gloss
3rd layer: Alclad II Chrome - it gets a little dusty so after this layer cured, I took a soft microfiber cloth and polished it lightly.
4th layer:  Mr Color Clear Red.  This should be applied when the alclad cures.  Some folks have had problems with Mr Color products and Alclad.  

I did not add any clear coat to the red, or black for that matter :)  Testament to Finisher's Paint performance.

25
Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting
« on: November 10, 2006, 08:22:57 AM »
Yes I do switch tools.  I clip from the parts tree with nippers.  Then use the hobby knife to "widen" the female connections.  Normally, I need to use the hobby knife regardless to remove excess flash from the polycaps.  Some of the older kits have some horribly designed polycaps where even the slightest amount of flash will prevent parts from aligning and snapping together properly... so it's not too big a deal to have to change tools.  I usually have a ton of different tools hanging around when I'm in the building process anyways.

26
Model Gallery / Haruhi Suzumiya done..
« on: November 10, 2006, 08:03:04 AM »
I used Alclad II chrome over Finisher's Pure Black.  Then Mr Color Red over the alclad....  

The guitar build was fun.  Still got a few details I'm going to be adding to them like the switches that were missing from the recast.  *sigh*  The stockings were just a pain in the rear.  First time doing them so I actually went through countless sets of stockings.  My workroom now has a sewing machine as part of the landscape.

I guess in hindsight, I should have just sawed off her shoes, it would have made the stocking installation much MUCH easier.  Well, I'll save that for the next figure with stockings or if I ever get my hands on an original for this kit.... For which I will still keep my eyes out for.

27
Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting
« on: November 10, 2006, 07:40:46 AM »
Along the lines of test fitting.  I never cut the male ends...  I just cut into the female ends :)

Using a hobby knife, I just insert the knife into the female connection holes and twirl the hobby knife a little effectively widening the hole.  Then when I mate the two pieces, the guides are still there but they're easily taken apart.  I find that this little twirling of the hobby knife is very quick to do while doing the initial snap fit test.

Test fitting is always recommended.  It is a good start to planning a build.  At least for me, since I'm a very visual type builder.

28
Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting
« on: November 10, 2006, 06:05:35 AM »
Once you get used to everything, it becomes a pretty standard step by step process.  Certain things need to happen before other things.  

In my mind, (and I have had similar instances where a painted piece came apart and I tried to short cut it) it is just quicker and easier to just strip and begin the whole process with putty/sanding, then painting.  As opposed to masking and trying to fix the seam, then trying to match the paint tones... etc etc... more work than it's worth really.

29
Model Gallery / Haruhi Suzumiya done..
« on: November 10, 2006, 05:50:06 AM »
Well one of the two.  Having stocking issues with one leg on the black version, but once the glue dries, I can continue finishing that kit.  Also adding a little more details to the guitars.  They're missing the selector switches and I'm adding a few other things.  My webhost is having problems so I cannot update my website... so here are some links to a few of the pictures I took earlier this morning.
Haruhi in red 1
Haruhi in red 2
Haruhi in red 3
Haruhi in red 4
Haruhi in red 5

30
Model In-Progress / Kampfer - Zeon Special Forces [Black Ops Unit 6]
« on: November 09, 2006, 09:44:01 AM »
Disposable dodai bomb for the Kampfer?  Instead of faces and such on the pods... how about "merry x-mas"/"Happy Easter" type messages on them  :razz:  Tasteless yes, but funny no?   :evil:

31
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Styrene card question
« on: November 09, 2006, 09:41:26 AM »
I think his question is to replace the use of putty/resin with styrene.  As in, instead of using putty to make stuff, using only styrene to make stuff.

I believe the best thing is to combine the two.  Use the styrene as structural support, then adding putty for the surface.  Putty is much easier to sand and work with than straight styrene.  Given the choice to sand putty/resin areas vs styrene/bandai plastic, I would definitely choose putty/resin.

It can be done, but may be more work than it is worth.  Unless there is significant cause to use styrene over putty/resin or in conjunction - I don't think there is just cause for it.

Balsa wood is nice and soft, which lends itself to sanding and shaping.  So I don't believe it makes a good comparison to sanding and shaping styrene.

32
Painting/Priming / Pre- and Post-Shading
« on: November 09, 2006, 09:36:16 AM »
Quote from: "tehmarken"
For doing a wash for the panel lines, what's a good ratio for paint:thinner?
And for enamel paint, rubbing alcohol is a good thinner, right?


The consistency of a wash solution is close to water.  I usually use a dot of enamel to 1 eye dropper full of thinner.  Enamel paint is oil based, you need to use an oil based thinner.  Best to just get some thinner that is the same brand as your paints.  Hardware store brands of thinner may be too strong.  Alcohol is not a good thinner for enamels.  Alcohol is a good for thinning acrylic based paints.

33
Model In-Progress / Kampfer - Zeon Special Forces [Black Ops Unit 6]
« on: November 09, 2006, 07:40:09 AM »
Heh.. for some strange reason, I'm expecting little smiley faces painted on the smaller tanks and such.  The lack of mobility in the ankle bugged me as well.  And I was far too lazy to modify the feet....  Very interesting idea you have going.  It's really nice to see all the different things folks are doing.

34
Tools / Miniature Electric Sander
« on: November 07, 2006, 09:27:50 AM »
Some guy over at hf built one and I thought it was the coolest thing since sliced bread... and I just happened to have a couple at home since my gf thought they were cool to get.... even though I thought it was odd that the batteries were interchangeable but the actual bristles were not....  Good thing we had not thrown them out.. they getting more use than they did as actual toothbrushes.

35
Model In-Progress / Haruhi Suzumiya X 2
« on: November 05, 2006, 11:15:31 PM »
Weekend update.

Ok, first I got a little over zealous with removing the bloody pinholes.... so I had to fix that mistake with some epoxy putty..


But, the weekend was fairly productive:

Still got some more work, but it's getting close....

36
Tools / Miniature Electric Sander
« on: November 03, 2006, 03:41:51 PM »
Quote
Thinking of using Velcro to make it more modular (for different grits)

Just using a padded double sided tape should be enough for modularity.  Eventually, you would have to replace the wore out sand paper, so you end up wasting one side of the Velcro right?  Or am I thinking inccorectly?

37
Painting/Priming / Formula 409 and Stripping Models
« on: November 03, 2006, 01:49:37 AM »
Ok, here's a little experiment preformed by a member at Hobbyfanatics with regards to IP plastic and various liquids one my use to strip paint.  
http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?showtopic=9985
Interesting that I would think Mr Color thinner, a lacquer/solvent based thinner would eat the plastic, but it's not the case.  Perhaps the local hardware store thinner is THAT much stronger.  I use both thinners, (mr color thinner and hardware bought thinner) although I mainly used the hardware store version for airbrush clean up and the like.  I think I confused my use of Mr Color to strip small areas of paint off injection plastic as opposed to Hardware store lacquer thinner.

The thread is definitely worth looking at.

38
Model In-Progress / Haruhi Suzumiya X 2
« on: November 03, 2006, 01:40:42 AM »
May look like a small update... but the sanding and cleanup process for this little girl is crazy... god how I hate recasts... hopefully I can get an original next year if they pop up on the market.  Then I can rid myself of these two pieces of crap....  The original has got to be much better than this.



I love uncovering pinholes and bubbles as I sand away defects on the surface.  Then there are parts that need some extreme detail cleanup work.  I wonder if resin dusts affect my dogs any...

39
Model In-Progress / Haruhi Suzumiya X 2
« on: October 31, 2006, 04:41:59 PM »
Heh.. I think that's part of the reasons for chopping off most of the thrusters on my Kampfer... didn't want to wait for the K bells to come in... besides.. shiny new bells don't seem to fit right with a dusty desert environment... but yes.. other than the bells, there are tons of stuff to do.  I should just drag this project along until a couple of days before the end of the contest  :razz:   Sorta let the 29 or so other folks catch up :)

40
Model In-Progress / Haruhi Suzumiya X 2
« on: October 31, 2006, 01:38:55 PM »
Yeah, I have the images for the logo already fixed and squared away... just waiting for decal paper...I actually went out sunday afternoon driving around town to see if I can find a local source for the decal papers.  best1hobby had some, but they're closed on sundays... *sigh*...

Just got really overzealous with wanting to finish the guitars and be done with them... kinda like a milestone type thing.  The damn things were enough work to be noted as a small kit in themselves.  A couple of other folks over on the Hobbyfanatics forum have also built these guitars... so it got me all juiced up to build them... similar fashion to the drive to build the Kampfers.... but since no other than Foo and dasphule been rolling... my desire to finish that has some dwindled...

Must be the competitive drive :)  Need to get it back so I can just go ahead and finish the base and final touches on it and move it out of my workshop... odd that while working on the bunnies, between painting and building the guitars; I've had to constantly move the Kampfer out of the way...

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