Messages

1

Painting/Priming / Pre- and Post-Shading

« on: December 01, 2006, 10:30:25 AM »

Well, my comparison was based off my experience with using a single action airbrush.  Press down on the trigger, paint and air come out.  Of course this was before I had any regulation device on the airflow, and the brush was really old, 15-18 years that I picked up for a couple of bucks back then.  But my assessment is that it worked just like a spray can.  Perhaps if I had the actual airbrush brand and model, proper regulation setup, wasn't a complete noob with airbrushing - my answer would probably be different.

modedit: no flaming!

2

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Panel Line Question

« on: November 30, 2006, 04:10:11 PM »

Yes.  The important thing is to clear coat it before you attempt the wash.  And that the wash is a different paint type than the clear coat.  Acrylics over lacquer are perfect.  It's ones on preference as to when to lay down decals, before panel lines, after panels...  What you have structured is fine.  A final clear coat in either gloss, flat, or semi gloss will be the last thing to spray onto your model and you can then stamp the sucker done.

Just do it.  Once you get going and after a couple of models, you'll find your own structure and style.  It all boils down to experience.  You can read all the tips and such... but until you actually sit down and cut your teeth a little - it's all theoretical.  Get something done and post up the results.  Then we can go from there with critiques and how to "improve" if there exists room for improvement :)

3

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Decals Questions (Ask them here!)

« on: November 30, 2006, 03:29:43 PM »

Are the decals from SamuelDecal.com the same decals that come in the kits? Or are they variations and custom designs?

yes and no.  They sell waterslide copies of the bandai decals as well as custom designs they did themselves or gathered from other people.  You can custom design your own artwork and submit it to samueldecal and have them print out decals of your own design.

Also, are these wetslides, decals, or the dry press on ones?

Waterslide.  I'm pretty sure their website states the decal type.

Read this: Samuel Decal "about" link

4

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Putty Questions

« on: November 30, 2006, 12:17:33 PM »

I've used tamiya extra thin cement to "weld" the two plastic pieces together.  One that cures, I sand and the look to see if there were any bubbles or tiny missed areas.  There usually are.  So I apply a layer of Mr Surfacer 500 (putty of my choice) over the seam area and let that cure over night.  Sand it and I can usually see where the putty fills in the areas.  Prime it and the seam is gone.  As for a tutorial.  Grab this one and see if it helps any:
My Model building tutorial in MS Power Point
I have pictures of this process here.

5

Model Talk / IPMS 2006 Philippines Winners (Gundam-themed, from Sci-Fi)

« on: November 30, 2006, 12:12:50 PM »

Diorama definitions are always a gray area.  Some say a story needs to be inferred, others say more than one "main" subject needs to be present, etc etc.

My local IPMS usually ignore the elaborate bases, and only judge a dio is there is a story and multiple subjects interacting with each other.

Its hard for contests to set down rules for a dio when folks who enter dios have a completely different interpretation of what a dio is....  Reminds me of the e2046 summer comp... someone took pictures of their display case with a bunch of like themed kits standing around on a shelf in their display case as a single dio entry....

Are there pictures of the rest of the IPMS contest?  And I'm curious as to how the Sci/fi category compares with other modeling categories like armor, aircraft, cars, etc.  Curious as to if the popularity and numbers are similar to how it is at the various local IPMS comps I've been to.

6

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Panel Line Question

« on: November 27, 2006, 05:30:49 PM »

If you are using FFA, do not use an acrylic based wash.  Best to use an enamel based wash.

The idea is that the clear coat is a different paint type than the wash solution.

If you used a lacquer clear coat, you can use acrylic or enamel.
If you use FFA, you should only use enamel
If you use an enamel based clear, use an acrylic based wash.

7

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Panel Line Question

« on: November 27, 2006, 04:41:05 PM »

Mr Super Clear Gloss is another wonderful product.  However, it is lacquer based.

8

Model Gallery / WF2006 NONO and Green Arrow Mini Bust pics.

« on: November 27, 2006, 12:46:34 PM »

Nice work on the Nono.  From your first post about starting work on the kit, I actually sat down and watched a few of the episodes.  Got to 4 and I think the file I had was corrupt, so that kinda took the steam out of the series for me.

Aim for the Top is the beginning for where the "Ganix Bounce" term stemmed.  Gratuitous boob shots abound.  My favorite is still when Noriko flops down onto her bed, her shirt just puffs up from the movement of air giving the ever so slight glimpse of a bouncing boobie...

So did you pre-drill the holes before putting in the screws? (in additional to what I assume are pre drilled holes from the molding)  I just worry about trying to screw into a tight resin hole only to crack it.  

Excellent job!

9

Model Gallery / Haruhi Suzumiya done..

« on: November 27, 2006, 12:36:31 PM »

heh... Cool.. I got replies!  :)  I blame the stupid FF12 for sucking the life out of me right now...

Thanks Kev.  Yeah, if I didn't get pulled into the show, I'm not too sure how much interest I would have had for this kit.  The stockings were a pain in the rear.  In hindsight, I should have just cut the shoes off her legs.

clee, I'm actually trying to acquire a couple of originals.  These crappy recasts are going to be sold at AX or Otakon next year.  I really like how the red came out, so I'll probably do another in the metallic red.  Not sure if I want to build a 4th...possibly keep it for a couple of years and then sell it off as an unbuilt kit.

Nice catch on the Tatt Phil.  I was thinking about hiding it in the ankle, but the stockings would have completely hid it.  Plus with the amount of slipping on and off the tens of stockings I had, the poor tatt would not have faired too well.

Mr G3 is the pimp...  I really need to scratch up a purple feathered hat and possibly a big fur coat... turn the beam saber upside down and add a little flashy knob to the end for use as a cane.  I was a little skeptical about the scale of the fishnets with the resin figure, but I think it's passable.  I had thought about painting the legs black, then slipping the stockings on and then painting on the flesh tones.  Not sure how well that would work, but I do like the added three dimensional texture the stockings add.

Note to self, need to buy more of the bloody material.  I ended up going through alot of the material I bought just for the trial and error phase of getting the stockings to work.

10

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Stickers!

« on: November 27, 2006, 11:02:42 AM »

I believe the question is pointed towards placing a sticker into an indented area.  For example, say there is a square indention.  If the modeler were to cut the sticker such that it is the same size and shape as  the indentation, what kind of long term effects would result from using a sticker as opposed to a decal.

Most of the reasons people stay away from stickers is the thickness and "sticker" look.  But I do believe that there should be no problems with using a sticker inside an indented area.  The problem is that not many kits have indented areas that benefit with a decal placed there.

But interesting question about if the "sticky-ness" of a sticker goes out over time.

In my experience, stickers require just too much work to make them look as good as a comparable waterslide.  I'm sure you can probably lightly sand down the edges of stickers and make them look really good, but again, more work than it is worth.

11

Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting

« on: November 23, 2006, 09:59:42 AM »

Withe regards to the trouble some masking round/circular areas... At the very least, the Pallas doesn't have as many circles as the tear drops on this dress:
Saber's inner dress with gold tear drops
The masking process alone took about 6 hours or so.

But in the end, I find that masking circular/oval extruded areas, this method is the best.  To ensure coverage and all that good nonsense.

12

Painting/Priming / 2 Questions: one on masking, one on test-fitting

« on: November 22, 2006, 09:41:55 AM »

Depends on if the circles are indented, or extruded....

For an extruded piece you can mask like this:
Mask and cut method - the mask
Mask and cut method - cut with brand new exacto knife blade

Or mask in small pieces around the circle:
Masking around an eye example

Or, if the parts are inverted, you can paint them first, then insert some sticky tack to mask that area off, then paint the other parts like this:
Sticky tack to mask off painted thruster interior

13

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Future Floor Acrylic Questions (ask 'em here)

« on: November 21, 2006, 06:26:00 PM »

The metallics will look dusty.  Personally, I don't care for the look of a flat coat over metallics.  Flat coats tend to bring out the small metallic flakes and such.  Typical metallic jobs require several coats of gloss for a nice luster.

But with most of these "what if" questions.  It boils down to personal tastes.  Best yo take some spare styrene, or a test model kit, and spray your metallic, then spray flat on one third, semi gloss on another third, and gloss on the last third.  The end product needs to satisfy you.  The best way to do that is to test it out.

14

Model Talk / Upcoming Gunpla (Post it here, other threads will be locked)

« on: November 15, 2006, 12:16:46 PM »

Actually, I don't think it would surprise me if this shop wasn't already a recast shop.  I'm pretty sure the prices are mixed up.  I remember ako quoting the price for the 1/35 ball kit (unfinished) was somewhere in the neighborhood of $190.  Not too bad a price since the kit is fairly large.

Regardless, the website needs a bit of work.  It just looks too amateur as a store front.

15

Model Talk / Upcoming Gunpla (Post it here, other threads will be locked)

« on: November 15, 2006, 10:57:05 AM »

Here's something interesting I stumbled across.  I'd need some confirmation from Ako to see if they are who I believe to be "Evolution Hobby" in HK, or just a distributor for them; and even confirmation if they are legit:
http://www.hk-toys.net/

But for those who want to grab a 1/35 scale Zaku II, or those 1/35 scale Zaku II heads, or even the 1/35 scale Ball....

Having built the 1/35 scale Zaku II head, I can say that it was very well engineered and came together very nicely.  Very good casting, with high quality resin.  Thought I'd post this to see if I can get some info.  The website is a bit rudimentary.  But it's a start.  At least a source for 1/35 zeon products... and hopefully we can see some more 1/35 zeon stuff form these guys.

16

Model Talk / The Future of UC Hardgraph?

« on: November 14, 2006, 01:58:43 PM »

Heh.. or along the idea of arms and such.... The "hand" and arm of a Hygogg or Z'Gok, Gogg, Zu-gok-E...  hmm... maybe its a little too big

But the idea is the more unconventional and unexpected things out of a 35th scale gundam world....  Like the stupid little cars that Camille drives around in, from various scenes out of Zeta.  A beam saber/heat axe still lit and just melting through cars and people....

But yes... the possibilities are endless.  Hopefully this line becomes popular and they are able to pump out more of the stuff..

17

Model Talk / The Future of UC Hardgraph?

« on: November 14, 2006, 01:17:46 PM »

I want to see a big foot.  Then I can cut up a 35th scale figure and have him/her lying there with supposedly, the other half under said foot.... and just have a crowd of folks standing around not sure of exactly what to do and stuff...

hmm.. too morbid?

18

K is for Krazy Kustom Kampfer Kompetition / MS-18F/trop Kaempfer Tropen with field modification UC-0081

« on: November 13, 2006, 05:47:57 PM »

My guess would be light.  I didn't see mention of any mobility modifications.  The cosmetic modifications are not really too extensive - seems like most of the parts are plug and play type changes.  This is only guessing from the pictures and what you posted.

Now if you did some considerable scratch building for weapon systems, or a lot of cosmetic modifications to change the general look and structure of things, then we'd run towards the heavy modifications.

I make the comparison since I consider my own modifications to my kampfer light customization.  For all intents and purposes, it(mine) still looks very much like your standard out of the box kampfer.  Taking a look at DasPhule's kampefer and his plans, that's what I would consider heavy customization.

19

K is for Krazy Kustom Kampfer Kompetition / MS-18F/trop Kaempfer Tropen with field modification UC-0081

« on: November 13, 2006, 04:54:39 PM »

I toyed with the idea of adding zimmerit.  Aesthetically because it ties in the WWII german tank theme with a lot of zeon suits.  Functionally, because the K actually carries such a weapon.

My line of thinking for potential magnetic weapon employment would be projectile weapons that used a magnetic device similar to a heatseeking weapon.  Ie, launch the projectile from a bazooka or other method, then within an allotted time from launch, the projectile's magnetic guidance system arms itself.  Or even a much more fun means of attaching a mine:  A GM or random Feddy suit runs up to the K and "tags" it with a mine; then quickly runs away.  Imagine the fun of trying to remove the sticky mine before it explodes, with the mine on your back and the maneuverability of the suit restricts if from pulling the item off itself.

Another note would be changes to the design of the kampfer in our customization.  For example, I removed about 18 thrusters off my kampfer, then added the weight of additional weapon systems and propellant tanks - which effectively altered it's modus operandi and turned it from a fast in quick attack weapon to a slow moving patrol/support unit.

20

Model In-Progress / WF2006 Buster Machine 7 NONO Progress

« on: November 12, 2006, 12:59:14 AM »

Excellent!  More figure builders!     Looking forward to this.  I'm a huge fan of the original Gunbuster series.  I have the sequel downloaded but have yet to find the time to watch it.  Might have been a good thing too, since it would probably end up tempting me to grabbing the kit too...