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Messages - Kaus

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Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Coating and decal solvent ???
« on: April 06, 2006, 01:51:41 AM »
This is what i mean by "silvering" :

And i stop by : I only see Mr Top Coat, Mr Super Clear and Mr Super Clear UV, i dont see any Mr Color Varnish. Or you mean Mr Color (spray) like J46,  J30, J62 ...ect ?

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Coating and decal solvent ???
« on: April 04, 2006, 06:56:39 PM »
Thank you for your help ! Actually I look at the sticky decal and in FF How to build Master Grade Gundams but i dont find any explanation about mark setter and and mark softer. Because in my country it is imposible to acquire those things. So i want to ship them from japan (gunze), i just want to make sure i ship something that can be usefull to me ( in this case : remove the silvering look on the decal ). So at T1000 comment i find that both Mark Setter and Mark Softer can remove silvering so in will only need to ship one of those two.
About those gunze varnish question. I wonder if i can mix them with gunze H40 Flat base to achieve a satin varnish. I never use them before so i just want to know otherwise i ship Mr Top coat or Mr super clear coat (spray) they have gloss/satin/flat. Thank you for your time (and your reply)  :) .

Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Coating and decal solvent ???
« on: April 03, 2006, 11:44:14 AM »
Can I replace future floor with gunze H20 Flat Varnish and H30 Gloss Varnish ? And what is gunze Mr. Mark Softer and Microsol (set) ? I dont know what is the different about decal setting solution and decal solvent ! I want something that can make my decal dont look so glossy and erh...  look a bit old (dull). Sorry my english is bad, hope you guys know what i mean.

Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / Re: Paint Questions
« on: March 29, 2006, 05:42:40 PM »
Quote from: "Shingo"
Hey guys, I was wondering if the acrylic paints used by painters are different from acrylic paints by tamiya and other model acrylic paints. I wanted to know if I thinned those acrylic paints (ones used by paints that comes in a tube) with alcohol, will i be able to airbrush them on to models without a problem?

Ah yes, all acrylic paints are different. You can thin artist acrylic (Daler Rowney) with alcohol but im not sure it will work fine with an airbrush.
This is from FF : "Artist acrylics are probably not going to stick really well to your kit like a modeling acrylic will"

Nah, they dont ! I once asked them if i buy in large quanlity (~50 jar), can they ship them for me. They told me 50 jar is too few..... if 1 container, they will ship for me (sic) . Thats why i called them greedy !!! If thing going on like this, i must buy Tamiya paint online but tell me to contact their local agent , anyone know where i can buy Tamiya paint online ? And with a resonable price (i mean shipping fee) ?

Quote from: "oteebzo"
I have used testors acrylics paint and still use.(Getting rid of old paint) And I use water to thin it out and it works good for me.If you use the wrong thinner it will turn into clumps and you will not beable to use at all.Oh and almost forgot, I only use alittle thinned paint as I need for jobs Because it seems to go bad faster when I thin it.And by faster I mean acouple of months. ( Thats tells you how often I get to work on my models.)

Uhm... i will give those testor one more try. Actually, long drying time is a pain in my @ss cause my workshop have a lot of dust, i think they will ruin my pain job. Finally i find a hobby shop have Tamiya paint and guess what, they only have 3 color ! I pick gunmetal X-10, and they have alot of Tamiya enamel though. Sign.... lets hope my Tamiya agent have some change in their mind and ship some Tamiya Acrylic.... oh god punish those greedy b@stard !!!!!!!!!!  :mad:

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Separating parts after they are built?
« on: March 27, 2006, 03:05:00 AM »
Quote from: "OmegaZEROCustom"
So, with the announcement of the 1/100 Infinite Justice coming in May, my interest in the Destiny 1/100's has been renewed. My problem is that since the Strike Freedom had come out last Summer, I have since started to airbrush my kits instead of simply snapping them together and using a Gundam Marker to do minor color details.

Since my plan will be to airbrush the Infinite Justice kit, I'd liek to try and bring my Destiny kits, and eventually my SEED and Wing kits up to the higher quality of them being airbrushed. My problem is that unlike my newer MGs and HGUC's, I didn't do the technique of slicing the pegs at an angle to help get them apart after a prebuild (since I never did a prebuild).

I'm wondering if anyone has suggestions on how I can separate the parts without doing much damage. I don't mine some knicks along the seams since I'll be gluing them and sealing the seam lines, but I don't want to risk greater damage than that.

Does anyone have an idea on how I can get these things apart without too much trouble?

Seperate parts in warm water also help. Used your nails !

Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Alcohol will not mix well with other acrylics from what I've heard. Alcohol is pretty much only good for thinning Tamiya and works better than water for it. Tamiya's thinner is mostly alcohol with a few other unknown ingredients.

As for the Testors, I have no clue what else to thin it with. A long drying time may be a hassle, but it's better than nothing. Lacquers dry FAST... all acrylics will need a few days to cure properly.

Artist acrylics are probably not going to stick really well to your kit like a modeling acrylic will.

No problem with the language thing... we'll cut you some slack for that. Please check the stickied "Paint" thread here for more questions and help.

Thank you for your time. By now i guess i stick to lacquer paint, cause using acrylic causing me so much trouble, maybe my country haven't developed a taste for Model kit ? All i can get from my Tamiya Dealer is some RC cars, RC plane, military scale model ect... and NO gundam, or anything that has a connection to gundam. And at my local hobby store, things get worse ! All of them is military model from Academy (Korea) which i hate most ! Few store has Gundam but 4/5 of them is counter-feit product from China which name is BENDI !!!!!! Its hard to find genuine Gundam from Bandai and its very expensive, no paint, no putty, no decal, no thinner...ect.... I've been using super glue to fill seam line and lacquer-based to paint in age !!!! Sigh....  :(

Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / Re: Paint Questions
« on: March 21, 2006, 12:27:00 PM »
Quote from: "T1000"
Please allow me to share some of my experience about paints..

Cons of lacquer based paint:
1. It is toxic. Make sure you wear a mask and the spray area is well ventilated.
2. Not that easy to strip off. For water based paints, it can be stripped off very easily using Windex.
3. It dries fast. sometimes to fast. Making hand painting impossible without Mr Retarder. Also, if the presure of the air brush is too high, and/or the paintis too thick, it will dries in midair and you will be spiderman wannabe.. spraying webs out of your air brush ruining your work..
4. Leaving the paint in your air brush for too long and it will get stuck at the nozzle. Which means that you have to clean the airbrush much more often.


Never mix water based paint with lacquer paints no matter who said it is ok.

It is ok to spray water based on top of lacquer paints,but not vice versa for lacquer based is stronger and may damage your work.

Hope that helps clear some doubts....or do I add more doubts?  :roll:

Some experience about cons of lacquer based paint :

If you using laquer paint, you must be very very patience,because  if you spray too much (by accdident) or you want to cover the surface quickly you will be regret later, even a smallest spot have more paint than other can cause damage to your model. Its best to follow FF painting tutorial, cause lacquer paint dries fast and you might wanna to speed up your paint job then .....  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:
If you making a mistake you can still stripping it of quite easily, about 5-10 minutes after you done painting otherwise, forget it. Just use some tape to strip it off, this only work on a flat surface, in some small spot you must use another layer of paint to cover because if you using thinner (acetone) to strip paint of you can damage your model.
If you using artist airbrush (like badger crescendo) dont use the lacquer paint, it will spraying webs out of your air brush. Use a industrial airbrush, or use some airbrush that have a bigger tip.

And 1 pros :
Using laquer paint can be very amusing, paint layer is very smooth and thin. And when you done painting you can use industrial wax to coat your model, wax came with seperate thinner and in 3 cagetory : gloss, satin, dull.
If you decide to using laquer paint, you must buy hight-quality paint (i use TOA), because some low-quality can be hard to thin (you must use more thinner and thust damage your model) and leaves a thick layer, cause spider web ...ect...
Hope this help you guys out. Anyway i'm stick to lacquer paint cause i have no choice.  :(

I always use the lacquer-base paint (TOA) for my paint job, but if i not careful the paint can make my model meld and emit some hazardous element which bad for my health . So i decided to try the so-called acrylic paint you guys recommend. Then, my problem started now, first i go to my Tamiya Dealer and buy some paint, and they tell me they out of Tamiya paint (sic), so they sell me their new paint -Testor- Arcyl acrylic base. I got no choice cause they told me that they have no intetion of shipping Tamiya paint again (!), what kind of dealer is it ????  Then i got some paint from them which cost me about 20$ (3$ per small bottle), damn those paint sure cost alot ! But i cannot help it so i "happily" (sic) bring those new paint to my workshop, although FF recommend Tamiya paint in his/her painting tutorrial (flash) i think that all acrylic base paint all the same so i mix 1 bottle of flat black and 1/3 bottle of flat white and ready to paint my model. The last step is, when i add isopropyl alcohol 100% to thin the paint, they started to PRECIPITATE ! (dunno if this is the correct words, i use the online dictionary to check)
which mean i must use the Testor brand thinner. After that i rush to my Tamiya dealer and they tell me they dont have the thinner, they recommend me to thin with water (to hell with 'em). So, i thinned with water and they take me alot of time to DRY. So i run to my drawer and take some artist arcylic paint to try. Now i find that artist acrylic paint can be thin very well with isopropyl alcohol, but i dont know if i can masked, hi-light, shade ... with 'em ? Because i have no experience using acrylic paint (save those artist acrylic paint).
So, what do you guys recommend me to do ? Using those Testor but thin with water or using artist acrylic paint ( the brand is Daler Rowney) and thin with isopropyl alcohol ? And i still dont know why you guys thin pain with isopropyl alcohol (this take me a while to find, and costly, about 4$ / 500ml). I always use acetone to thin my paint.

Thanks you for your time, and response  :D and forgive my bad english, i try very hard to make you guys understand me.   :o   :o

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