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Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / MIG washes and filters
« on: December 21, 2007, 06:14:48 AM »
I've seen use of the Mig's filters in his FAQ and had a real woody to try them out..but was very difficult to find.  As a christmas wish, i walked into my LHS and found they had the Mig washes (not filters).  I call the local tank boy over and start quizzing him.

What the true diff between the filters and washes?
Can i use them "basically" interchangabley?
Whats the preferred application method?
The washes (at the LHS) were ~$20? and the filters (now in stock at Squadron) are ~$30 and are half the quantity....whats the big difference here?

The tank fella told me there was another worker of the LHS trying all the Mig material (both filter and wash) out (at home) and gave me his ph.number...I'll give him a little time to play, then quiz him.

In the meantime...does anyone here have experience with these items...or heard any info about the above questions?

Many thanks.

Model Gallery / Gouf Custom - Urban Command
« on: November 18, 2005, 06:44:39 AM »
for your review and comments:
(review the 2 gouf folders)


Model Talk / Pavement Swatches
« on: June 11, 2005, 02:10:32 PM »
In the near future I plan on preparing a display base that will include some paving...some concrete, some asphalt.  I had heard of several methods on producing scale concrete, but figured I try them all for comparison sake and to have swatches for future reference.

I've used 5 materials:
Fine Ballast: by woodland scenics (look for it in railroad area in hobby store)
Gold Bond:  was looking for plain talc powder (which comprises the majority of GB) but guess ev'thing has a brand name now (look for it at the grocery store)
Baking Soda (found at grocery)
Stucco: a matte medium produced by liquidtex that has small bits of sand in it thus mimicking stucco once dried (look for it at michael's)
Corn Starch (also at grocery)

Each swatch is typical styrene brushed over with liquidtex acyrlic medium matte.  Then a ample amount of the testing material thown on top and allowed to dry overnight.  A soft brush was used to remove all un-attached material and swatches were shaken and tapped for any loose material.  A small area of each swatch was then masked off and lightly sanded with 200 grit sandpaper, thus making a slightly smoother texture.  This 200 sanding shows on some of the rogher textures but doesn't on others.

Each swatch was painted with tamiya sky grey and given a misting of Testors Dullcote.


I was pleased that each gave a different texture, and believe all have uses in some scale or use.  

The items shown adjacent each swatch are a US dime and a small figure and military vehicle in HO (1:87 ) scale.  

I'd like to hear of others experiences with these materials and/or other methods and materials to reproduce scale paving.


Model Talk / Lessons learned
« on: April 15, 2005, 07:54:24 PM »
this may ramble..and seem to digress..but all does come around.

starting the work on my gouf and had some questions (to myself) about how i was going to finish the MS.  One was about using a texture on the "beaten" parts (feet, knees, etc) and two, to try my first attempt with Alclad.

I had read that most good metallic paints need a perfect surface under them as well need a gloss coat of black enamel.

For the texture I was going to try the cast texture produced by smearing on Mr. Surfacer 500 and texturizing it.  Before I could get under way, I read (somewhere) about Liquidtex producing texture mediums.  I went to my local Michaels...looked around I bought a jar of the Stucco flavor (about $8.50..but enough to last a lifetime).

For the metallics I thought I would do a cross reference swatch that showed different metallics on differnt subbases.  I had done swatch tests with a variety of primers (due to earlier frustration with paint chipping and realizing I needed a good bite into the plastic to prevent this, due to my use of acrylics).  Here is the swatch :

There are some abbreviations...Tam=tamiya, MM = model masters, Alum=aluminum, enam=enamel.

Without a doubt, of all the squares, the one that jumps out at me is the Alclad polished aluminum on Tamiay Surface Primer.  It seems even better than that Alclad on bare plastic.  Other observations:  the tamiya metallics look like flake metallics used for car paint jobs in comparison to the Alclad, the darker metallics are not so dependent on the light/dark of the subbase.

lastly,  The MM aluminum shown looks better than actually is.  The bottle I was using was fairly old and I shoulda tossed it.  But I tried to salvage it with some extra thinner.  In my experience, they don't produce such big metallic flakes as Tamiya.

Rewind for a bit.

While in the midst of a few days of making the metallic swatch, I was priming my pieces.  I had bought a few cans of the Tamiya Spray ....being impressed with it before.  I live in a small apartment, but have a professional 3M respirator.  I had to keep the windows closed (and a cool temperature) due to the ill effects humidity can render on laquer finishes.  I sprayed and sprayed and sprayed...about 2 1/2 cans, ...prob 60% of the totaly kit needed to my dismay.  I noticed some powder building up on my modeling table.  I was the blowback from the primer.   I soon realized it was ALL OVER THE APARTMENT.  Like a layer of dust that had accumulated over a year.  fine white powder.  I was ....sad, to say the least.  I swore to myself I'de never use the product again (unless I had a spray booth).  This however was before I saw the results of the Alclad on the Tamiya spray.  soooooo, i've come to the conclusion:  Only use the Tamiya spray if going to use alclad over it, otherwise a gray enamel primer.  Second, I need to find a different place to spray when I do use the Tam primer.


I tried the Mr. Surfacer ...500 and 1000
the pic doesnt' do it justice.  Its nice.  But opted not to use it.  It is a somewhat thick application and the pieces I were considering had some finer detail I wasn't ready to cover up.

I also tried the Liquidtex Stucco texture medium
I was impressed with this stuff.
the picture shows the right half applied (smeared like the Mr. Surfacer application) while the left half shows it cut with some tap water.  The top half is then showed being lightly sanded with 300 grit s'paper.  The application was thick (hence I declined this use again).  I tried to super thin it down and spray it through my airbrush.  I thick I thinned it down too much (fearing the clog in my airbrush).  It stuck to the item airbrushed but was easily rubbed off afterwards.  I feel the the answer is to thin it down and apply by smearing.  I feel the top left of the swatch is the best.  Think it would be perfect for ...maybe 1/35 - 1/75 concrete....really really close.

I hope I've helped.

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / cast iron look
« on: April 10, 2005, 10:37:34 AM »
has anybody tried this technique?
(sorry if the link doesn't work....go to his making of 1/16 tamiya king tiger...turret section...8th pic down...his cupola)
its the feel/look of cast iron..
this fella has used thinned putty...i want this badly...but am afraid to try.
is it brushed on.....smeared on then roughed?
whats the process.
i went to michaels.....found this acrylic matte medium stucco texture (i found out that liquidtex makes all sorts of textured mediums: glass beads, fibers, lava rock!).  might try this stuff....would be sweet if i can think it enuf and spray it though a wide open airbrush.
thats the thing.
i wan't this rough look...but if i'm handbrushing it on...i'm still afraid it will get TOO clunky.
kinda hypocritical...i want something....random and messy look...but not too messy.
i know.
anyway...anybody got any feedback?

found more...go to his making of 1/35 tiger....sanding page.
shows him spreading it on...but that looks crazy....just...just seems like there very little control in that...and how do you do curved surfaces...both convex and concave?

Model In-Progress / Gouf Custom - Urban Command (WIP)
« on: April 05, 2005, 01:42:24 PM »
for your constructive criticism.  ALL comments (good or bad) are welcome

(sorry for the long first site....i have wayyy to many pics for one page...i'll start a new one for the finished item).


Model Talk / Whats your secret?
« on: March 20, 2005, 03:39:53 PM »
Just when I feel I've got a full dose of modeling...and know plenty, a show always humbles ya and reminds ya that you don't know everything.

So I ask..."whats your secret?"

what is a technique, a product, a style, a routine that you use that you think really helps you but that you don't think/know that anybody else knows or that maybe you'd like to tell more people about?

As for me?

- photoetch: is tedious work but really adds to believable scale detail.
- future: flattened, tinted.  this floor wax is the best bang for the buck.  super cheap but works in so many applications
-wrist band/card:  right before i spray i like to do a test spray...I get a sweat band for my left wrist (since I'm right-handed) and stuff half an index card in it and the other half over the back of my hand....and spray on it for testing before i spray the actual model
-aves apoxy putty:  not super cheap..but also great price for value.  is non-toxic, very moldable, water workable, and sands/finishes just like plastic.
-scavanging: keep your eyes open for kits from ALL genres.  I use other kit pieces to enhance my own kit.  look in 1/1700 scale ship kits, look in 1/35 tank kits, look for hoses in the auto section.  there are so many other great little details in other kits to add to your own
-out source:  look for inspiration everywhere.  keep photos.  look for graphic artists on the net.  take pictures of rust.  keep a library of pictures (hard or elec.) to find inspiration when you think your kit doesn't have punch
-plan:  try to your best to have a complete idea of what you want to do with your kit before you sit down and start doing the work.

just a starter....I will likely think of more later.

but i want to hear what ev'one else isn't sharing!!

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