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Messages - BobSpamGundam

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1
Model In-Progress / 15mm (1/100ish) scale Finnish Army for War gamming
« on: August 26, 2009, 12:34:55 AM »
Hello there I thought I would post up pictures of my near completed AFVs for use in the game Flames of War.

all the vehicles need is some slight weathering, I've found that in this scale that is the easiest thing to totally mess up.

This is a Soviet T-28's, the Finns captured around 7 of them and put them back into service. I painted it in Finnish Three tone camouflage using the colors that the miniature manufacturer recommended.





This is a unit of three StuG G's. Finland purchased several from Germany.









and Finally a unit of T-34/85s. these were also captured from the soviets.









As soon as my Infantry gets farther along than bare metal glued to a bast I'll post some pictures of them.

2
Finishes, Decals, and Weathering / Fixing Pigments to a model
« on: June 02, 2009, 01:09:12 PM »
Hello there, I recently got two sets of MIG pigments, from the few experiments I really like the results. I had purchased them with the intention of using them on the various wargameing models I have, (mostly WWII) but when I used testors Dull coat all of my work disappeared. Now I know it's best to just not touch the piece in order to best preserve the pigments. this isn't really a solution for my situation as you have to touch the models to play the wargame.

So what can I do?

3
Model In-Progress / Re: warhammer Dwarf Army
« on: March 18, 2007, 08:02:41 AM »
I kinda like the shine........ :unsure:

but I could hit them with some future mixed with flat base if I wanted to.

4
Model In-Progress / warhammer Dwarf Army
« on: February 09, 2007, 12:14:35 AM »
Greetings again!, I am finally defeating this bout of procrastination.

War hammer figures come in two flavors, Pewter or Plastic. The pewter ones are obviously sharper in the detail department but the plastic ones are easier to convert and allow you to mix and match parts.

These are both “miners” one is from a starter set while the other is from the normal range.





Also plastic minis have more pronounced mold lines that need to be shaved off with an exacto knife, metal minis need to have seams and other protrusions filed down, and the picture is of the mold line on a plastic as it is easier to see. (but not to photograph)




After cleanup and washing the minis you prime them with either a spry on or some loonies hand paint chaos black on them.




After that it varies from person to person on how to hand paint the army. I used Citadel colors made by Games Workshop, after all of the base colors were done I gave them a wash with the color “brown Ink”

With respect to shading, most people highlight the raised and depressed portions of the mini with different shades. I have yet to move up to this as I just want to get an army on the table that looks good

5
Model In-Progress / warhammer Dwarf Army
« on: February 03, 2007, 11:49:37 AM »
Below I shall chronicle my epic struggle to paint all off the miniatures I have in this army. First up is what I have done so far.

The full images are 1024x768 pixels



This is the Thane, he's basically a prince kind of thing and is the army general.



The back of the Thane



This is the Runelord/ Runesmith He is there to slow you magic.



The back of the  Runelord/ Runesmith



This is the first unit of warriors, there are 20 of them in this unit, I still need to add sand and other bits, They also need their sheilds as do the rest of the warriors in the army.



top view



The second unit of warriors, Basically the same story as the first one



top view



These are the long beards, they're basically the elite troops in the army. They still need they're shields and the bases need to be finished.



top view



The gyrocopter, This is the only thing that I would consider truly "done" the base on it is what the rest of the army's will look like some day.



Top down view.



One of the artillery pieces in the army, basicly a stone thrower.



This is merely for scale, just to see how small these things are.

Later I shall make an attempt at explaining the methods by witch these things were done. In the meantime comments and questions are more than welcome

6
Painting/Priming / Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions
« on: January 29, 2007, 11:42:13 PM »
Quote from: "oteebzo"
It sounds like your teflon bearing is shot. It is the bearing inside of the feedneck. If it is a badger they are warrentied for life but you have to ship it back to them because it is factory install only. If it is an Iawata then you can order one and install yourself. Thats one of the reasons I live Iawata every thing can be replaced by the consumer.

Hope this helps


This is the only thing that I have not tried, I had tried changing to one of the other needles over the weekend thinking that may be the problem but alas is seems my air brush is going on a vacation.

Thank you all for answering my questions.

7
Painting/Priming / Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions
« on: January 27, 2007, 10:05:43 AM »
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
http://www.craigcentral.com/models/trouble.asp

That page has all kinds of airbrush troubleshooting tips. Check near the bottom for "erratic spraying". Try those tips and let us know.


I have tried what it said to do before, I've even tried just thinner. It still starts and stops, I have also replaced the siphon tube lid thing. I'd rather not just up and replace the air brush as it was a little pricey. So, is my only salvation a top fed air brush?

8
Painting/Priming / Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions
« on: January 24, 2007, 11:34:12 PM »
I think I'm havening a similar problem to mrmaigo's.

I have a Badger crescendo 175, dual action, bottom feed, hooked up to a compressor. (unsure of the brand)

It didn't do this from the beginning but in the past few months it's been spraying irregularly, in that it will be spraying paint perfectly for a few seconds and then just air,then paint again. it appears as though it is losing suction, I can't for the life of me figure it out as it does this with water too.

Thank you for taking the time to listen to my problem.

9
Model Talk / Stargazer
« on: January 24, 2007, 04:29:44 PM »
Quote from: "zerobxu"
To me, it's one of the more appealing Seed-era designs out there, but every time I see it doing the dual-pistol thing, I keep thinking "Lara Croft: Star Raider". I actually had this kit in my hands and was on the way to the cash register when I decided that I had better ways to unload $20.


that's the Strike Noir Gundam.

he's talking about the  Stargazer Gundam which only has a beam rifle.

10
Model Gallery / Warhammer 40k Imperial Catachan Jungle Fighters
« on: December 09, 2006, 10:13:11 PM »
Those look really nice!

I really like the modding on the "leaves guy".

I actually plan to get into warhammer (fantasy) after Christmas, so it's neat to see some other people's work.

11
ah I see, thank you for the quick reply, this was in relation to warhammer figures so I suppose I'll just try it out when I get more pipe cleaners for my air brush.     :(

12
I have a question, what will happen to the shine of metallic paints if I were to spray flat or satin future (with the Tamiya flat base) over them?

13
Kit Specifics / Lost Parts
« on: November 13, 2006, 06:34:49 PM »
I am still shocked at how few people know of this method for getting replacement parts.

 here's how to get a free replacement from Bandai of Japan, for any Gunpla.

Here is their policy:

1. We accept free replacement for any defection or missing parts if it occurred in our production line or during the transportation. (This one I have not tried, but I have heard that you need to email them photos of the sprue still in the bag.)

2. We also accept a replacement for broken parts or missing parts which occurred under customer's responsibility. This replacement will be done free of charge but it will be only one time deal. Limited within 4 pieces of parts.



Email bandaiactionkit@bandai.co.jp (They have English speakers) telling them what parts you need as well as your address. For me it took a few weeks to get a reply, but after they told me it shipped it got to me relatively fast. (wrist parts for my PG Wing Zero)

14
Model In-Progress / 1/100 HG tallgeese (built as number 1)
« on: August 30, 2006, 10:23:31 PM »
Hello!

This kit was given to me for a birth day a few years ago and for some sick reason I decided
that I would accomplish the the look of the Tallgeese I by the use of Gundam Markers....

so I have decided to do this kit right.

First step was soaking all the parts that were painted in 91% alcohol.



oh, believe me, it's not butter......anyway.

after I had sufficiantly cleaned the parts I started sanding off the plastic nubs (Which I also did not do on my first build).




And that is all for now, I will probibly still be sanding all week.

Questions? Comments? Conserns?

15
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / zaku spike problem
« on: August 04, 2006, 10:17:59 PM »
Another Alternative to buying the parts is getting a free replacement from Bandai.

Here is their policy:

1. We accept free replacement for any defection or missing parts if it occurred in our production line or during the transportation.

2. We also accept a replacement for broken parts or missing parts which occurred under customer's responsibility. This replacement will be done free of charge but it will be only one time deal. Limited within 4 pieces of parts.



Email bandaiactionkit@bandai.co.jp (They have english speakers) telling them what parts you need as whell as your address. For me it took a few weeks to get a reply, but after they told me it shipped it got to me relativly fast.

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