Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - igor57

Pages: [1]
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Easier way to sand these areas?
« on: December 19, 2008, 02:41:41 AM »
Sanding!    Could write a book on It :D   In the course of my work I would go through maybe 400 sheets of the different grit sizes per year. 

Ok First tool to get:    One of these.  Have had one now for probably 10 years and they are wonderful for all sorts of applications.  Expensive but so worth it.

Take the seams off with the file, then 240 grit, 320 and then 400.   Mostly on my builds I stop there but sometimes if the paint is going to be very thin and without primer I will go up to 800.

If you like sanding sticks, then it is very easy to make up your own.    Make up whatever profile of stick you fancy (I prefer ones about 25mm wide and made from firm tough wood, and then source some Disc Cement.  I use "Bear" also made by Holdfast over on this side of the World.  Smear in on thinly on the stick and onto the paper, give it a couple of minutes for the solvent to dry off slightly and then stick together.  The beauty of the Disc Cement is that you can peel off used paper and replace it on the same stick.   Also this method allows you to make shaped sticks for getting into specific areas. 

Another trick with sanding paper is to cut it into a strip, then fold it tightly onto itself as many times as you wish, starting at one end and working your way along until all the paper is folded onto itself.  The trick is tight folds.  A little "pad" of sandpaper is formed.   As one outer piece of paper is worn away, cut it off so exposing a fresh piece of paper, and so on. 

Another very interesting paper that is available is Trizac by 3M and Norax by Norton.   This product is termed as "structured abrasive".   Expensive and quite extraordinary.   I have used both types and they are good, really good.   Come in Micron sizes from 180 down to 6 micron.  On plastic the stuff just does not seem to wear out at all.

Scraping seams etc is really great, and I always file them first to ensure that when scraping there are no major bumps to start with.  I use glass.  Yes broken window glass.  3mm is best. Fantastic!   One pass and it's all done.   Very smooth.  Not for the faint hearted but excellent none the less.   I tape off the edges I will hold with masking tape and always wipe whatever I have been scraping, with a cloth, before touching it.  Sometimes you get tiny shards of glass left behind and the cloth sorts that problem out.   
In days long gone all furniture finishing was done with scrapers.   If you look for them you can still find the furniture makers scrapers, otherwise a firm bladed knife sharpened on one side only (to form a tiny hook on the cutting edge)  is perfect for scraping.   

Have fun, Cheers

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Cutting and sanding metal parts
« on: December 19, 2008, 12:00:32 AM »
Find a Jewellers suppliers and check out their smooth cut files.    The jewellery ones are much finer then your average ones.   Pick a flat wide tapered one with a square file edge on one side and a rounded file edge on the other. Actual file (ignoring the tang) of about 150mm.  More versatile.   

A small trick with Aluminium is to use a droplet of oil (automotive is fine) or kerosene on the file.   Yeah I know that it's a pain subsequently for pre-paint clean-up but for aluminium is aids the cut hugely.   Then wet and dry paper probably starting at 240 grit and then 320, finishing with 400.     

The alternative is a scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder/polisher, this works a real treat.   

As Fulcy says the stones and aluminium can be a pain but diamond burrs make a lovely job on aluminium particularly if you want a textured surface.     

Quick point, if you ever want to use aluminium round for pins, mounts, locators etc check out you local welding suppliers.  Huge amount cheaper then buying through a model shop.  Feeder rods for Tig welding is what to ask for.   Comes in 1.2, 2.4. 3.2, and 4mm ........

Have fun!

Model Gallery / Re: 1:24 vignette "the Dustbug"
« on: December 18, 2008, 11:29:03 AM »
In regards to "Rust" was draining my workshop compressor the other day and collected some of the rusty fluid that came out.   Am in the process of drying it out.   Once that is done I shall mix it with some clear flat acrylic and see how it goes.   Will keep you advised.     Like you Sticky Fingers we have very limited amount of materials available to us here in New Zealand.   

Yeah, it would go like a rocket straight and then have to slow down to walking speed to go around corners!   Brilliant!     Be a Great ride though  :lol:

Model Gallery / Re: 1:24 vignette "the Dustbug"
« on: December 18, 2008, 02:41:08 AM »
Man I just love scratch-builds and this just so ticks all the boxes.   8)   Classy stuff and I look at your design and say "wow that would be so fun to build!"     

Wonder how it would go as a 1/1 ?  :D

Model Gallery / Re: Lighthouse Standoff Completed
« on: December 18, 2008, 02:34:41 AM »
I look at this work of yours Michael and just smile.   I also look at the detail and admire your intense attention to detail.    As Zerobxu says it's value is greater then the sum of parts because it captures an instant in time that we can only wonder of.   It is that wondering for me that denotes excellence.   Beautiful work. 

Pages: [1]