Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - Climax-Zero

Pages: [1]
1
Hi to everyone out there. This is my 1st post so I apologise if this has been asked/answered somewhere else before.  :unsure:

From all the info on this thread and others, I think most ppl would recommend the following;

1. After finishing your Paint. Coat with FFA.
2. Apply Panel Lines using wash technique.
3. Apply Decals.
4. Coat with FFA again. (Choose finish by amount of thinner added).

My question is about the paint/wash types. In order to do the panel line wash, must the paint being used for the wash be an enamel with FFA? I plan to use TFA to paint the model (seeing as I already have some).

Before I sign off, I just wanted to say what a superb amount of tips and techniques I have learnt so far from this forum. It has been such a help.

Cheers.

Just adding on to that, so after each step (Paint, Lines, Decals) you put GLOSSY FFA? Does the final coat of FFA decide what the finished look will look like? e.g Glossy after paint, Glossy after lines, Glossy after decals, and then dull finish coat = dull?

And, I'm still looking for an alternative. I can use any multipurpose cleaners and degreasers, right?

2
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Building "Skeletons"
« on: September 11, 2007, 01:54:33 PM »
At least give them a coat of paint. You don't necessarily have to detail them, but you'd be amazed what you can see and what you can't once the armor goes on. Test fitting helps that too.
Can you show me an example how it would look like without and with paint? I have built models with skeletons, but if you have the same piece for the examples, then that would be really helpful.

3
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Building "Skeletons"
« on: September 11, 2007, 10:44:47 AM »
So I should really only paint the tubing and those details in the skeleton if I want to... Thanks!

4
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Building "Skeletons"
« on: September 11, 2007, 04:47:47 AM »
Do I just assemble the inside structure of a MG kit with a skeleton normally? Or do I need cement or anything? I'm not sure on the cement part because that will need sanding later on and may damage the look. Painting the entire thing is out of the question, as the layer of paint may restrict armour plates being assembled on.

5
I think this can go here...

As I can't get FFA in my country, would this be a suitable substitute if I am looking for a dull shine?

6
Painting/Priming / Re: MG Aile Striker Units
« on: September 10, 2007, 12:11:32 AM »
Thank you, you've all been a great help!

7
Painting/Priming / Re: MG Aile Striker Units
« on: September 08, 2007, 11:40:22 PM »
Can I still get a good result by spraying it grey, then very carefully hand painting the vents red?

Gunze Sanjyo has Mr Sol product which is a liquid that can harden into something similar to masking tape. Then you can peel that off easily. Should that also be an option to me?

8
Painting/Priming / Re: Water as a thinner
« on: September 08, 2007, 04:08:53 PM »
I don't think so, because even though Tamiya Acrylic Thinner is water based, water is still not suitable for thinning paints.

9
Painting/Priming / MG Aile Striker Units
« on: September 08, 2007, 04:02:01 PM »
Some of the more recent Gundam Seed MG kits have a Aile Striker unit included, for example Strike Rouge.

My question is, how am I supposed to paint the grey insides of the vents since they're deep inside?

A good picture is on FichtenFoo's "How to Build MG Gundam kits", under the "cutting pieces from the tree" section.

10
Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / Re: Paint Questions
« on: September 07, 2007, 01:40:24 AM »
Thanks again! I can use the original bottle as long as it's tight...

11
Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / Re: Paint Questions
« on: September 07, 2007, 12:12:26 AM »
Is it okay to leave a solution of Thinner and Paint mixed together (ready for airbrushing) kept away like normal paint?

I don't know whether this may affect the paint in any way

12
Model Talk / Playing with your models
« on: September 07, 2007, 12:10:22 AM »
I was wondering... since painting and building models is a really difficult task to make it perfect, how many of you actually play with your models once they're done?

Q. What are they?

A1. Amazing playthings.
A2. Amazing displaythings.
A3. Can change the pose once in a while
A4. Can be played with once in a while
A5. They can be played with?

13
Painting/Priming / Re: Mr. Sufacer and Primer Questions (post 'em here)
« on: September 05, 2007, 04:27:33 AM »
It's the same thing. there's a brand of primer called Mr. Surfacer: http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZB-505 hence the confusion, I suppose.

How much primer you spray should depend on what you need to do: if you just wanna spot putty errors or scratches, a thin layer might be enough, saving you some primer, but if you're going to paint your part, it's better to have an even coat so you don't get color discrepancies on your top coat.
Thanks for the help!

14
Painting/Priming / Re: Airbrush, Airbrushing, and Compressor Questions
« on: September 02, 2007, 09:09:41 PM »
Tamiya has released a Trigger HG Airbrunsh last year. I am intrested in purchasing it, but I am not sure whether I can make it not spray anything or spray air or spray paint and air.

15
Painting/Priming / Re: Mr. Sufacer and Primer Questions (post 'em here)
« on: September 02, 2007, 09:07:21 PM »
Hey there.

What is the difference between SURFACING and PRIMING? They both seem to do the same thing, but some people think the other way. I think that SURFACER is the product for PRIMING. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Also, do I spray a piece with primer until I get a even coat? Some just leave it to be foggy.

Pages: [1]