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Models => Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) => Topic started by: nico on August 10, 2005, 01:32:24 PM

Title: Paint Questions
Post by: nico on August 10, 2005, 01:32:24 PM
Hi Mike,

If I did understand you message you asked me to post my article in a new tread. Then you ll put a like to it on you MG tutorial.

So hiere it is : Hope you'll understand  :cry:

Introduction

Ok now you are ready to paint your kit. It’s an important step in the modeling process. Painting will highly improve the visual aspect of the kit. It will increase its realism.
Painting is not enough for you kit to become a master piece. A bad painting would ruined all your efforts.
There is no universal method to paint a kit, so we will try to show you different techniques you should test and adapt to your needs. Lets guide you through the maze of paint.

The Paint

Paints are made with 2 principals components : pigment natural or synthetic (resin base) for the color and the aspect. The base oil water or solvent.

Different looks

In shops you will find different types of paints flat , satin and gloss.

The different kind of paint

Acrylics

Acrylics paint is very usefull for modelling. It dries very fast (between 10 to 20 minutes depends on brands) some as Life Colors are non toxic. You can easilly thin them with different kind of puducts like water, distiled water, alcool or specific acrylic thinners. The pigments are very thin and you can get a a rigid or “elastic” coat (depends on makers)
The advantage given by a fast drying process can also become a problem. As it dries faster it is more difficult to paint perfect shade effects. Another main disavantage of acrylics, they are fragile, so beware of friction or chocs.
Main acrylics markers are Tamiya, Gunze-Sangyô, Citadel, Prince August, Revell.

Oil base paints

These kinds of paints are oil based, that means you need oil based thinner like white spirit or turpentine to thin them. These paints also called Enamel are mainly used by figures modelers because it works very well with a paint brush. It dries very slow so you can do many effects directly on the model. You can melt or shade colors very easily, and it doesn’t dry in the airbrush. It is useful to realize washes, mud or grease stains and many kinds of weathering effects.
These paint can be found in jars or tubes for autistics ones. Those last are mainly use by resin figures modelers and during the panel lines painting process.
Unfortunately it smells so you should paint in a very well aired room. When dry Oil base paints can be sealed and are very resistant to shocks or frictions.
You can find them made by Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Revell etc.

Alclad paints

Alclad is a trade mark. This factory made a very special kind of paints that will give your model a very realistic finish. They are made of metallic grains in suspension in a lacquer base solution. Metallic effects are really amazing.
Unfortunately they are volatile and smell a lot so you should use them in a very well aired room. It’s ready to be use no need to thin it. Low pressure is recommended as the paint is very fluid.
You should use Alclad washing solution to wash you painting supplies but you can also use white spirit or any over solvent used to clean oil base paint. Take care and do a test before using a corrosive product with your airbrush.
Alclad doesn’t work with a paint brush. And if you want to do a wash over it you should put a coat of seal or the thinner will remove the Alclad paint.

Techniques

The Prime Coat
The first step in painting process is the priming step. This is not an obligation to prime your kit but it can help.
Resin modelers prime there kit to see little bubbles scratch or so and work on it. It helps to fix the over coats of paint on the kit too.
You can prime the kit with different kind of products like Mr surfacer un jar or can or Primer in can like Tamiya Primer. All these supplies are easily avaible on the net.

The Base Coat


Painting details and weathering


Tell me if you want me to cary on these paragraphs

Bye

Nico
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on August 11, 2005, 07:06:03 PM
Most of it seems like it's coming along. You need to mention enamels and lacquers in the types of paint section. Keep editing it in you above post though so it's complete and post a new msg here when you do. Let us know when you're done and we'll clean up the english grammar and spelling.

Anyone have advice to give nico on this? Anything he should add or fix?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: DarkChii78 on October 06, 2005, 12:40:03 PM
After all the praise Alclad paints are getting, I'm thinking of getting some. The only problem is that they are lacquer paints. I'm cautious to use them because of all the safety hazards they pose. So I have a few questions.

1. Any general safety tips? Do I need a respirator?
2. What do you thin lacquers with (I know Alclads don't need to be thinned). What would I clean my airbrush with?
3. Any tips for using Alclad paints? Where do you get them? What type of basecoat works best?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on October 06, 2005, 02:22:14 PM
Quote from: "DarkChii78"
After all the praise Alclad paints are getting, I'm thinking of getting some. The only problem is that they are lacquer paints. I'm cautious to use them because of all the safety hazards they pose. So I have a few questions.

1. Any general safety tips? Do I need a respirator?
2. What do you thin lacquers with (I know Alclads don't need to be thinned). What would I clean my airbrush with?
3. Any tips for using Alclad paints? Where do you get them? What type of basecoat works best?


1: Respirator and spray boot are highly recommended.
2: Lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush
3: Follow the directions on the bottle for spray PSI.

Alclad FAQ:

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT009_Alclad/TNT009.htm
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: GunDom on October 06, 2005, 03:20:31 PM
Quote
2. What do you thin lacquers with?


It should be a given, but it was never addressed.  Lacquer paints need to be thinned with lacquer thinner.  From my understanding, if you're using Mr. Color, I would suggest that you use their line of lacquer thinner.  Although I've heard that you can use commercial-type of lacquer thinner.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: kiasu69 on October 09, 2005, 06:19:13 PM
is anyone familiar with the use of vallejo model color paints? what's the thinner required and the ratio for thinning for such paints? thanks.  :)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zantetsuken on October 27, 2005, 02:46:38 PM
Hi, Im new here. (fresh blood   :evil: ). I have an EVA-01 kit and im about to fix the seams any way I have a few questions about paints can anyone help me.

1.What are the disadvantages of using spray paint?  :( .

2.What are the best spray paints?

I dont have an airbrush yet and i was wondering if a spray paint is a good alternative to painting the model.

thank you. :D  :D  :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: gamerabaenre on October 27, 2005, 03:27:10 PM
Quote from: "Zantetsuken"
1.What are the disadvantages of using spray paint?

Cost vs amount of paint you get.  Since spray paint cans cost quite a bit more than a bottle of paint, and you do not get near the amount of useable paint.  When using spray cans, it's easy to waste alot of paint too since the pricision is not there - as compared to say a brush or an airbrush.
Quote
2.What are the best spray paints?

From my experience, tamyia spray paints are absolutly great.  The paint isn't thick like some Testor's spray cans I've used.  And they go on nice and smooth.
Quote
I dont have an airbrush yet and i was wondering if a spray paint is a good alternative to painting the model.

Sure, why not.  I used to use spray cans before I picked up the airbrush.  Just remember, the amount of money spent on spray cans over a period of time can easily equate to the cost of purchasing a decent beginner airbrush ([Shameless plug] Iwata Revolution CR, my first real airbrush - excellent for beginners and at a cost of about $60 US brand new[/shameless plug].  So doing the math, it's about equal to 10 cans of tamyia spray paints.... roughly.  But if you are starting out, go with the spray cans, if you are seriously into building and painting, then save up and pick up an airbrush.  It'll save you money in the long run.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zantetsuken on October 28, 2005, 10:06:58 AM
Thanks!  :)  Sadly air brushes really cost a lot of money not even counting the compressor cost. Since i wont be able to use it a lot of times anyway i think i will just go with a couple of spray paints. and a few regular paint for the detailing.  :(

I also have a couple more question to you all. ^_^

Is it true that gunze sangyo paint are hard to deal with than tamiya paint?
but they give a good look for the finishing.

is there anything you can apply to the finished paint to protect it from scratches or damages?
well except for the future floor acrylic and the tamiya flat base mixture that fichtenfoo made because sadly i dont have an airbrush to do that mixture.

thank you. :D   :D   :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: gamerabaenre on October 28, 2005, 10:37:40 AM
Quote
Is it true that gunze sangyo paint are hard to deal with than tamiya paint?
but they give a good look for the finishing.
 I don't think it is necessarily harder to deal with, but different if you are used to using one brand over another.  Also, are you talking about Gunze's lacquer line or acrylic line?  Most folk only have access to tamiya's acrylic line.  Both of these types of paint are excellent for airbrushing.  I've had mixed feelings about hand brushing either.  

So for handbrushing, I go with enamels.  Tamiya makes an enamel brand and they can be found at best1hobby, they don't advertise it on their webpage, but you can email them and request them.  There's also testor's model master's and humbrol for enamels.  Both of which I have used to a great degree of success in hand painting.  So since you have going to be sticking wtih spray cans and handpainting details, I would recomend going with enamels over any other paint type.

As for the proctective coat.  Gunze makes a top coat in flat, gloss, and semi gloss in borth lacquer and acrylic based formulas - so you don't have to worry about the lacquer version eating away at your delicate paint job.  Again, www.best1hobby.com carries these items.  They will help protect your kit from damages.

An additional note on scratches and damages... you really should allow the paint to completely cure before handling.  This could be anywhere from 1 to 2 weeks of time.  Once cured, the paint should be hard enough to resist scratching, but until then(completely cured), any paint is fragile - some types more fragile than others.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zantetsuken on October 28, 2005, 11:25:38 AM
Quote

are you talking about Gunze's lacquer line or acrylic line?

just the acrylic line well maybe both since i never tried them before.
Quote

I would reccomend going over enamels than any other paint type.

Why enamels? How does it differ from acrylics? sorry for the noobish question. EDIT never mind this question i just researched it.
and also do i have to mix enamels with some kind of thinner? Thanks for the best1hobby link i never knew that site until now. They really have alot of useful stuff. I think i saw tamiya enamels in my local hooby shop. But i guess i still have to order the top coat online. I never knew that Gunze makes top coats. I have to check the hobby store again for that. 1 to 2 weeks... wow i never knew it took that long for the paint to be completey cured. Meaning that its done from finishing the paint but without any top coat? :?
WOW! thanks for all the help it really means a lot. :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: gamerabaenre on October 28, 2005, 11:58:23 AM
In the case with acrylics, they take a LONG time to fully cure.  Sure it may be dry to the touch after an hour or so, but take  finger nail lightly to it and the paint will come right off.  Since I use future, and it too is acrylic based; allowing it to fully cure will ensure a very tough "shell" over the paint underneath.

Why enamels?  Well, they take longer to dry, which gives them more time to self level and brush strokes will disappear.  In comparison to lacquers and acrylics (tamiya) these two really dry too quicky for the brush strokes to level out decently.  Of course, you can always add retarder to the mix, but that complicates things.  Enamels need to be thinned with enamel thinner.  Of all the paints that I have attempted to hand paint with, enamels are by far, the best in terms of results and ease of use.  There have been may times where I tried to hand brush some tamiya acrylic and I get uneven coverage, and it ends up taking several coats to get it right, then I end up with tons of brush strokes.  Mr Color Lacquer's dry too fast, so it is easy to leave a chunk of paint.  There are acrylic paints that are formulated for hand painting such as vallejo's and delta cremacoat.  But I have no experience in these paints.  You may want to experiment a little with different brands and types and see what fits your budget and modeling style before settling in and buying a bulk of paints.  Something I should have done years ago.

Do some additional research on cure times for different paints and also do your own experimentations and find your own conclusions.  It'll help you in the long run with your modeling style and pace.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Doly Sinaga on November 06, 2005, 11:58:31 PM
I want to paint the rubbery parts of PG Wing Zero Custom (the "feathers" and the red waist) and the wings of HG-EW Wing Zero Custom. I'm thinking of airbrushing the parts first with Future and then paint them with Tamiya acrylic paint. Or the second alternative; airbrushing them with Tamiya enamel paint.

Are these possible or do I have to use special paints for rubbery parts like Irisawa vinyl paint?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Titan-ex on November 12, 2005, 03:43:36 PM
http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/504/photo/Gundam+tutorial+for+busy+people/


Can anyone tell me if this was  gunmetal or darkgrey paint used in the  photo.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on November 12, 2005, 07:36:35 PM
Quote from: "Titan-ex"
http://www.dannychoo.com/slide/eng/gundam/504/photo/Gundam+tutorial+for+busy+people/


Can anyone tell me if this was  gunmetal or darkgrey paint used in the  photo.


Well... looks like grey to me. Could be an Alclad metal, but it doesn't look like metal much. Here's an off-the-wall thought... but have you tried e-mailing him to ask? :? It's so crazy, it might just work! :razz:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: nico on November 14, 2005, 04:41:56 AM
It's seems to be a medium grey. You can melt metalic colour with this grey base to give the kit a metalic aspect. I already tried this, it works very well.
Actually you should follow mike advice.

Nico
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Scarylion on November 21, 2005, 05:09:02 PM
With Aclad mettalic paints is it best to prime with a dark colour first? (i.e black) or is the usual grey alright?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: T1000 on November 22, 2005, 10:37:32 AM
Please allow me to share some of my experience about paints..

So far I have used 4 types of paints, but would only classified them into 3 categories.

1. Water based acrylic paint (Hobby Color by Gunze)

2. Lacquer based acrylic paint (Mr. Color by Gunze, Tamiya Acrylics)

3. Enamel Oil Based paint from Tamiya.

I have used both lacquer based and water based extensively and would like to jot down the pro and cons of water based vs lacquer based.

Pro of Lacquer based paint:
1. Color is very vibrant and nice. Much richer colour tone than water based. Compare the silver and you will see a vast difference. The lacquer type silver is finer and smoother, while the silverof water based paint is much cause.
2. Best used with air brush and needs only very little (thinner to paint ratio of about 70:30) and it cover a larger area than water based for the same volume. (that explains the smaller size of the paints?)
3. Higher reisistance to scratching after curing. Best used for joint and contacts.
4. Rumours has it that it stays on the model longer without colours fading.

Cons of lacquer based paint:
1. It is toxic. Make sure you wear a mask and the spray area is well ventilated.
2. Not that easy to strip off. For water based paints, it can be stripped off very easily using Windex.
3. It dries fast. sometimes to fast. Making hand painting impossible without Mr Retarder. Also, if the presure of the air brush is too high, and/or the paintis too thick, it will dries in midair and you will be spiderman wannabe.. spraying webs out of your air brush ruining your work..
4. Leaving the paint in your air brush for too long and it will get stuck at the nozzle. Which means that you have to clean the airbrush much more often.


Hints:

Never mix water based paint with lacquer paints no matter who said it is ok.

It is ok to spray water based on top of lacquer paints,but not vice versa for lacquer based is stronger and may damage your work.


Hope that helps clear some doubts....or do I add more doubts?  :roll:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zantetsuken on November 22, 2005, 05:38:43 PM
Thanks for the additional info  :D  Can anyone help me again? I'm having some trouble, i cant quite find the correct paint mixture for this model kit. Anyone can read japanese? you can help me out a lot.

heres the paint guide link im having trouble finding the color for  letters B and D.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b157/paoXIII/Evangelion/?action=view&current=33487072.jpg

Thanks a lot guys!  :D   :D   :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Titan-ex on November 24, 2005, 04:11:52 AM
Quote from: "Zantetsuken"
Thanks for the additional info  :D  Can anyone help me again? I'm having some trouble, i cant quite find the correct paint mixture for this model kit. Anyone can read japanese? you can help me out a lot.

heres the paint guide link im having trouble finding the color for  letters B and D.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b157/paoXIII/Evangelion/?action=view&current=33487072.jpg

Thanks a lot guys!  :D   :D   :D



B looks like yellow with some  orange added.
D looks is a little blue and red mix to start,then add a little white stir and repeat till you get the shade you want.Sometimes you need to add more red or blue if the shade isn't purple enough.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Peter Hon on January 29, 2006, 01:00:43 AM
Here's something I need to know.

I just got done masking off and painting the metallic details on my Hazel advance 1/144 using alclad steel and pale gold for the details.  Some of the pieces had some alclad bleed through the mask. I did not put down a coat of future.

So my question is:

If I do touch ups on the messy parts (using acrylics) can I clean the acrylics off of the alclad areas with isoprypyl alcohol, without damaging the alclad?

I'm guessing it would be okay to do so.  I've done clean up on alclad with Humbrol enamal gloss black with enamel thinner without any affects to the alclad.  

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: rhanen28 on February 02, 2006, 06:16:22 AM
can i ask how to strip acrylic paints and lacquer based epoxy primer?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on February 02, 2006, 06:32:06 AM
Quote from: "Peter Hon"
So my question is:

If I do touch ups on the messy parts (using acrylics) can I clean the acrylics off of the alclad areas with isoprypyl alcohol, without damaging the alclad?

I'm guessing it would be okay to do so.  I've done clean up on alclad with Humbrol enamal gloss black with enamel thinner without any affects to the alclad.  

Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!


Yup... I've stripped Tamiya acrylic from Alclad with Rubbing Alcohol. Do it quick though or the alcohol may eat at the primer layer beneath.

Quote
can i ask how to strip acrylic paints and lacquer based epoxy primer?
Rubbing alcohol for the acrylic. Not sure about the primer.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Peter Hon on February 02, 2006, 09:24:13 AM
I've stripped Tamiya Grey primer from my HGUC Wing Gundam by using a damp cotton swab with Lacquer thinner.  If Epoxy primer is different from Tamiya Primer, I don't really know.

Anyway, make sure the Cotton Swab is DAMP (still pretty dry with alittle thinner) not Soaked with thinner.  Or a damp (with Lacquer thinner) Paper towel will work too.

After you're done stripping the primer, make sure to clean the part up with some soap, so the thinner doesn't eat away at the plastic.

Alclad makes some "Paint Brush cleaner" which is basically Lacquer thinner.  You can find that at any respectable hobby shop.  Or just head over to Home Depot and ask for Lacquer cleaner/thinner.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: rhanen28 on February 02, 2006, 04:38:43 PM
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Rubbing alcohol for the acrylic. Not sure about the primer.


is it the 71 alcohol%?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on February 02, 2006, 07:13:49 PM
Quote from: "rhanen28"
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Rubbing alcohol for the acrylic. Not sure about the primer.


is it the 71 alcohol%?


91% or higher.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Kaus on March 21, 2006, 12:27:00 PM
Quote from: "T1000"
Please allow me to share some of my experience about paints..

Cons of lacquer based paint:
1. It is toxic. Make sure you wear a mask and the spray area is well ventilated.
2. Not that easy to strip off. For water based paints, it can be stripped off very easily using Windex.
3. It dries fast. sometimes to fast. Making hand painting impossible without Mr Retarder. Also, if the presure of the air brush is too high, and/or the paintis too thick, it will dries in midair and you will be spiderman wannabe.. spraying webs out of your air brush ruining your work..
4. Leaving the paint in your air brush for too long and it will get stuck at the nozzle. Which means that you have to clean the airbrush much more often.


Hints:

Never mix water based paint with lacquer paints no matter who said it is ok.

It is ok to spray water based on top of lacquer paints,but not vice versa for lacquer based is stronger and may damage your work.


Hope that helps clear some doubts....or do I add more doubts?  :roll:



Some experience about cons of lacquer based paint :

If you using laquer paint, you must be very very patience,because  if you spray too much (by accdident) or you want to cover the surface quickly you will be regret later, even a smallest spot have more paint than other can cause damage to your model. Its best to follow FF painting tutorial, cause lacquer paint dries fast and you might wanna to speed up your paint job then .....  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:
If you making a mistake you can still stripping it of quite easily, about 5-10 minutes after you done painting otherwise, forget it. Just use some tape to strip it off, this only work on a flat surface, in some small spot you must use another layer of paint to cover because if you using thinner (acetone) to strip paint of you can damage your model.
If you using artist airbrush (like badger crescendo) dont use the lacquer paint, it will spraying webs out of your air brush. Use a industrial airbrush, or use some airbrush that have a bigger tip.

And 1 pros :
Using laquer paint can be very amusing, paint layer is very smooth and thin. And when you done painting you can use industrial wax to coat your model, wax came with seperate thinner and in 3 cagetory : gloss, satin, dull.
If you decide to using laquer paint, you must buy hight-quality paint (i use TOA), because some low-quality can be hard to thin (you must use more thinner and thust damage your model) and leaves a thick layer, cause spider web ...ect...
Hope this help you guys out. Anyway i'm stick to lacquer paint cause i have no choice.  :(
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shingo on March 28, 2006, 11:17:56 AM
Hey guys, I was wondering if the acrylic paints used by painters are different from acrylic paints by tamiya and other model acrylic paints. I wanted to know if I thinned those acrylic paints (ones used by paints that comes in a tube) with alcohol, will i be able to airbrush them on to models without a problem?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Kaus on March 29, 2006, 05:42:40 PM
Quote from: "Shingo"
Hey guys, I was wondering if the acrylic paints used by painters are different from acrylic paints by tamiya and other model acrylic paints. I wanted to know if I thinned those acrylic paints (ones used by paints that comes in a tube) with alcohol, will i be able to airbrush them on to models without a problem?


Ah yes, all acrylic paints are different. You can thin artist acrylic (Daler Rowney) with alcohol but im not sure it will work fine with an airbrush.
This is from FF : "Artist acrylics are probably not going to stick really well to your kit like a modeling acrylic will"
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shingo on April 17, 2006, 03:09:50 PM
Hey FF~ ^^

I noticed you use the Alclad steel and I was wondering.. if I wanted a darker shade what can I do? maybe mix a little bit of black base with it?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Peter Hon on April 17, 2006, 03:28:37 PM
Hey Shingo, you can always try looking at the Alclad II site to find a different metal (such as magnesium or jet exhaust).

Click Here (http://www.alclad2.com//url)

click on the Color Sample swatches to see if you can find the color you want (though jet exhaust is slightly darker than steel).
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 17, 2006, 03:39:35 PM
You can mix some of the alclad2 black with it. I haven't tried it yet though but I think Keenix has. PM him since he doesn't get online much anymore due to work commitments.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Peter Hon on April 18, 2006, 08:23:18 PM
is that the gloss black?  I didn't know you could do that...  :shock:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 19, 2006, 04:40:35 AM
Apparently you can, but I haven't tried it yet. This is from the Alclad 2 FAQ:

Quote
Can you mix the shades together?

Yes, except Chrome and Highly Polished Aluminum.

 

Can you tint the shades?

The regular shades can be tinted with small amounts of enamels or auto acrylics-only tint enough for immediate use.


You can find it here: (http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT009_Alclad/TNT009.htm)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: nico on April 20, 2006, 05:24:59 AM
If you put a black coat base first it will darkned the Alclad. But may be not enough.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Peter Hon on April 20, 2006, 07:40:23 PM
You know, I did that gloss base coat as a test, and it didn't do a thing to the steel.  I'm sure Shingo wants a darker hue of steel, so mixing some enamel black might help.

:P
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shingo on April 24, 2006, 12:29:20 AM
Thanks for the replies guys. Highly appreciated~ ^_^
I do have a couple of more questions though as I have never painted mentallic paints before. Sorry in advance if the questions sound stupid. I was wondering if it's safe to put a flat coat over the metallic paint surfaces or does that rid of the shiny metallic looking finish? The Alclad site says you don't really need a finishing coat, but I plan on doing a wash so I would like to seal everything in. Just some helpful tips on putting finishing touches on the metallic surfaces would be greatly appreciated =)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: nico on April 24, 2006, 03:46:31 AM
If you want to do a wash you should use an acrylic satin or gloss seal. If you use a flat coat you'll loss the glossy effect of the paint.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: gamerabaenre on April 24, 2006, 08:53:48 AM
I normally clear coat it with an acrylic based clear.  Future floor polish.  I do my washes with oil paints, so it works out.  As for flat coating a metallic, you may not want to do that... it'll result in a "dusty" look to the metal.  Metallics really should be kept as shiny as possible, so either just paint it and leave it, or paint it and clear coat it with a gloss.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 24, 2006, 09:03:55 AM
Exactly... Keenix was doing that for a while with his Alclad. The flat-coat really destroys the metal look. His latest RX-78-2 looks fantastic since he didn't clear-coat the internals at all.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Runamuck on July 28, 2006, 09:07:44 PM
I've got enamel paint questions. I might as well ask a FFA question or two here so I don't go all over the place posting like crazy. I apologize.

1) Is a wash with enamels on a model sprayed with Gunze Sangyo top coat a bad idea? Is it just best to use a wash on a model with FFA?

2) I have some old testors paints somewhere in my room. If I were to use them for a wash on a model that has been painted with Tamiya colors and sprayed with FFA would it turn out ok? Adding enamel thinner to the testors paint (then using it for a wash) is a definite no-no, right? What do recommend thats best for thinning the enamel paint?

(By the way I would have to use testors paint because there isn't a shop here in my town that sells Tamiya enamels. When I try to buy online I don't get good search results).

I hope it's not a problem for me to ask this here:
409 solution can remove enamel paint mistakes from panel lines right? If not, then what can I use? I already know that trying to remove paint from panel lines with thinners (Enamel thinners, Acrylic thinners, etc) eat away at topcoat and mess up my paint job.


These questions have been in my head for the last few hours and I just had to ask you all. I'm starting on my first painted model. I already know how to sand, use cement, putty, prime, scratch build, and paint with an airbrush. I just want this to turn out great in my first attempt to build a fully painted model. I've already learned a lot about building models through this site. These questions are the only thing that are keeping me from starting.

Thanks in advance. This is all greatly appreciated. :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: ChanYY on August 16, 2006, 06:24:50 AM
Although i m still learning modelling but i hope i can provide some help...
For your 1st question i guess any top coat is fine AS LONG AS it is glossy.
i heard that gloss surface is important for washing and flat surface will make a mess...
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: caljuice on September 16, 2006, 10:16:27 PM
For handpainting tamiya acrylics will water and a drop of windew or dish detergent be sufficient enough to act as a thinner? And usually whats the best ratio for handpainting? Also is there any special way to brush to reduce strokes, like certain angles for strokes?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on September 16, 2006, 10:40:29 PM
Quote from: "caljuice"
For handpainting tamiya acrylics will water and a drop of windew or dish detergent be sufficient enough to act as a thinner?

Can't speak to either of those (someone else here might be able to). I prefer 91% isopropyl alcohol.

Quote from: "caljuice"
And usually whats the best ratio for handpainting?

It honestly depends on the paint. For most of them, paint:thinner works well around 70:30. For metallic colors (gunmetal, for example), you can take the ratio to around 60:40.

Quote from: "caljuice"
Also is there any special way to brush to reduce strokes, like certain angles for strokes?

That probably depends more on the brush. If you can get the right ratio of paint to thinner and make straight and even strokes, the angle should work itself out. I tend to hold the brush probably between 45 and 60 degrees to the surface of the model, for most things.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: caljuice on September 18, 2006, 04:43:41 PM
okay thanks zerobxu, i'll keep those tips in mind.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on September 18, 2006, 05:21:16 PM
Quote from: "caljuice"
Also is there any special way to brush to reduce strokes, like certain angles for strokes?


Actually, in my (limited) experience from handpainting, I've found that it helps to only to strokes in one direction and with gentle but firm (if that makes any sense) strokes.

What I mean by that is that instead of going sideways (left to right or right to left), or vertically (up and down or down and up) I've found that just going to the right gives a nicer finish for the paintjob when compared to going right then back left.

I know this might be hard to understand and it's also hard for me to explain so just ask away about anything you don't understand about what I just said.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: caljuice on September 19, 2006, 09:13:36 PM
nope i think i got it, thanks, can't wait to try.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ad on September 21, 2006, 06:07:15 AM
Just curious guys.... Has anyone used any of those "Faux Pearl finish" products out there? I've seen pigmentation powders and paint, and I was wondering how it looked on a model. Have any of you guys tried it? Its a relatively new thing to me (Everything is new to me now... Haven't done any modelling in about 20 years!) and I'd really like to try it out. I don't want to destroy my model with something I'm not too sure of, so I was hoping to share the experience with someone else. I'm currently constructing one of those new Griffon Aqua types, and I think a pearl finish on the curvy organic looking lines in its design would really be complimented by a pearl-like finish. Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Does it mix well with paint, or is it like a clear layer that you apply, like FFA? Any information would be most appreciated. Oh, and in case you have no idea what the hell I'm talking about, here's a link to one of the numerous companies who manufacture products of this type.

http://www.metropartsmarket.com/craftpaint/krylon-c4s5.html

Thanks in advance. ;)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on September 21, 2006, 06:12:34 AM
There's been discussion about that here. Please search for "pearl".
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ad on September 21, 2006, 06:28:58 AM
So there is! Funny, couldn't find anything when I did the search earlier. Must have spelt it wrong. Many thanks.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: DarkChii78 on October 28, 2006, 07:12:44 PM
I have a question about Mr. Surfacer (or Mr. Color) paints. Can they be thinned with generic lacquer thinner? I've looked around and have seen some answers that say yes, and some that say no. I don't want to ruin a whole bottle of the stuff because I used the wrong thinner. Also, the Gundam Color sets. Are they lacquer paints or acrylic paints? The same as the previous question, I've seen some replies that say yes, and others no.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ad on October 30, 2006, 08:42:47 PM
Not sure about the generic lacquer thinner... I usually save my Mr. Thinner to thin Mr. Color and use the generic stuff to run through the airbrush for cleaning... Keeps the cost more under control. As for your questions on Mr. Surfacer, they have been answered by a thread in this forum, and at swanny's site. Here's (http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html) the link to what is in my opinion, the best english article on Mr. Surfacer I've read online.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: DarkChii78 on November 04, 2006, 10:28:52 AM
I've read both the article and the thread but they still don't answer my questions. I bought a bottle of Mr. Surfacer and some gundam color paints, but failed to buy any Mr. Color thinner. I don't know if I can thin the surfacer with generic lacquer thinner without it "eating" the pigments/grains. I don't want it to turn into a gloopy mess. Same goes for the gundam color sets. I don't even know what type of paints they are, let alone what to thin them with. I need someone who has experience with the paints to give me advice  :)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on November 04, 2006, 10:52:41 AM
You can thin jarred Mr. S with generic lacquer thinner. But you'll need to add some Mr. Retarder Mild to it to prevent it from spiderwebbing when airbrushed.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: caljuice on November 05, 2006, 12:46:16 AM
Which one of the tamiya acrylics are the best for painting skeleton internals? Haven't really found any good sample pictures of the chromes they got yet. Anybody have samples :D ?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on November 05, 2006, 07:50:56 AM
Quote from: "caljuice"
Which one of the tamiya acrylics are the best for painting skeleton internals? Haven't really found any good sample pictures of the chromes they got yet. Anybody have samples :D ?


As for metals... Gunmetal Plus Chrome Silver is nice, but all the Tamiya Metalics are too flakey/sparkly.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on November 05, 2006, 10:53:20 AM
Quote from: "caljuice"
Which one of the tamiya acrylics are the best for painting skeleton internals? Haven't really found any good sample pictures of the chromes they got yet. Anybody have samples :D ?

FichtenFoo is right--Gunmetal for most of it, and Chrome Silver for highlights (like pistons, etc.). A little gold or copper doesn't hurt here and there either. Also, if you want to take some of the glittery edge off the Gunmetal, give it a wash in flat black--or even mix a little flat black into the Gunmetal. It helps.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on November 05, 2006, 10:55:31 AM
I actually meant mix the silver and gunmetal (gm) together. Makes a nice metallic color. But I've done the gloss black as well with great results. (gm is a gloss I think). See my Ex-S for the silver/gm mix and my G3 hexed for the gm + black.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: bender222 on November 06, 2006, 08:01:18 AM
I have alot of tamiya acrylic mini bottles. Most of the paint textures are not labeled flat or gloss. does it really matter if I am using a FFa topcoat?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on November 06, 2006, 08:10:26 AM
Quote from: "bender222"
I have alot of tamiya acrylic mini bottles. Most of the paint textures are not labeled flat or gloss. does it really matter if I am using a FFa topcoat?


Yes, it really does. The clearcoat is about more than just giving it shine. It's about evening out the surface (and the finish). This makes decal application go much more smoothly. I, personally, don't use FFA, but I always put a clear coat on prior to decals. Once I get into airbrushing, I plan on incorporating FFA into that process.

As for your Tamiya Acrylic mini bottles, are the labels removed? Even if you can't find the name of the paint, you should be able to find its number (X-7, for example). If the number of the paint has an F in it, it's a flat paint. If it doesn't, it's a gloss. Example: X7 is Red whereas XF7 is Flat Red.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: bender222 on November 06, 2006, 12:28:42 PM
it turns out that 90% of the paints I have are just X-# and not XF-# meaning I have mostly gloss paint. should I really try to purchase and use flat tamiya paints? I usually tend to stick to flat finishes but I didn't know that it would matter if I use a flat base/ffa combo to topcoat it.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on November 06, 2006, 12:52:14 PM
Quote from: "bender222"
should I really try to purchase and use flat tamiya paints?

I think the flat paints do look a little more flat at the end of the whole process than the gloss ones. Of course, once you put the final coat of dull lacquer on, the end result will be flat. So the short answer to your question is "no". Don't go out of your way to buy Flat Red instead of Red if you're going to put flat/dull lacquer on it, anyways. Then again, there's probably roughly twice as many XF paints available as there are X paints. Something to be aware of.

You can always take the shine out of glossy paints, but there's only so far you can go to put shine into flat paints.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: bender222 on November 06, 2006, 01:59:36 PM
will the gloss texture adversly effect the outcome of  pre-shading ? And should i avoid using gloss ontop of flat or vice versa?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Maschinen Krueger on November 06, 2006, 02:42:04 PM
As a heads up.

I sprayTamiya Clears over Testor's Model Maser Chrome Silver to achieve great coloration affects. As FF said, the Tamiya Metallics have too big of flakes. Orange and blue and smoke are most appropriate. But, these clears did not adhere well to the silver paint. Maybe it was because the Metallic was so gloss, or maybe the surface had micro metallic dust, but when I masked the tinted bells with Tamiya Masking Tape to paint the inside of the bell with white then yellow, the TMT pealed off the Tamiya Clears in spotty random patterns. The effect is kinda cool, and now I consider it weathering, but something to keep in mind for later.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: braxat2000 on November 12, 2006, 12:02:07 AM
Hi guys,
I bought some mr color paints from the Gundam color line (BTW I got my first Gundam kit - Gouf Ignited in 1/144 :roll:).

For some reason before I ordered it I was sure that the Gundam color is an acrylic paint, so it was a bit dissapointing to me, as I'm not sure I would like to paint with lacquer based pints.
I actually moved to acrylics as I didn't like the toxic enamels - laquer paints scare me.

Is there  a conversion table somewhere for  Gundam mr color to acrylics?
Did someone paint a Gouf ignited and has the color mixes?

Thank you  :).
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: prime-idiot on November 13, 2006, 02:33:46 AM
Not sure if this belongs under paints or airbrushes but I have a wee problem that caused me to undo my spraying i spent all w/e doing (am new to this). :mad:

Using a matt base colour and it keeps going on like sand and staying on like sand (i.e. dusty to the touch and brushes off with ease so dumping it in iso-p 100% didn't take much to strip it. :x

What's going on here?:shock:

I have a suspicion I made the paint mix too thick (but have not yet seen the spiderman web effect, just an acrylic based sandblaster blowing paint coloured wet dust), and it's drying before it makes contact.  :mad:

FYI all tamiya paints being used here, no mixing of other brands (plus I don't trust them, have used humbrol and citadel before years ago)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: braxat2000 on November 13, 2006, 04:19:12 AM
Hi Prime-idiot:
Tamiya acrylics are my favorite brand, and I used them many times.

I can offer the following tips which I do (don't mean they have to be done, just what I like to do :))
- make sure you stir the paint well before adding it to the airbrush.
- thin it with Tamiya X20 Acrylic thinner.
- percentage of thinner to paint is 40% paint.
- paint a number of thin layers, and build the paint. You can use a ventilator to speed up drying time.

I actually thin all my acrylic paint with the Tamiya thinner (Model masters, floquil, gunze) and had very good results.

I think the problem that you had was a paint which wasn't thinned enough.

Hope this helps..
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: prime-idiot on November 13, 2006, 05:21:32 AM
hi braxat, thanks for that.

trouble with acrylics is the drying time which is why I always feel under pressure to get it done in a hurry (and why you can get things like mr retard to slow it down).

when base coating what PSI are you set to, as I read somewhere that 20PSI is about right for a base coat.

Currently I'm having to spary in my bathroom as I have no-where else to do it (resulting in some spray back that sent the bath invisibly pink, and then got accused by my mate who I rent with, of having my period, considering I'm a bloke, not funny). What's worse is we have gallons of Cranberry juice in the house (go watch the departed and you'll get the joke)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: braxat2000 on November 13, 2006, 10:11:28 PM
Hi prime-idiot,
I'm not sure about the pressure, as I have a compressor with no way to control thast. I use a double action brush and I guess the pressure should be low enough, especially when painting with very dilluted acrylics.

Personnaly I prefer to use the acrylics because they dry quickly, so I can paint more than enamels for instance in the same session :).
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: prime-idiot on November 14, 2006, 01:43:25 AM
Does anybody know how to make a paint pearlecent at all?

I've had this idea for a pearlecent blue-gold (may sound horrible but the idea is to have a gold with a faint oily blue wash on it to represent a high temp gold alloy.

Does anybody know of a neutral colour agent that can be mixed with tamiya acrylics to do this, as I know they do pearlecent paints but not in the colour I want.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: prime-idiot on November 14, 2006, 04:07:32 AM
Oo you wanna watch that, otherwise you could blow the seals on your airbrush from too much pressure if it goes high on you.

I try to balance it so that output pressure is what i want it to be when spraying i.e. if i want 20psi on spray i have to set mine to about 40 psi pre-blow.

Other thing i may have to do is replace the whole valve / resovoir assemly as my adjuster valve is crapenspuler, but i have a spare air chamber thingy so i may have to.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Major Blah on November 14, 2006, 06:06:35 AM
Quote from: "prime-idiot"
Does anybody know how to make a paint pearlecent at all?


A related topic can be found here (http://fichtenfoo.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1328&highlight=pearl)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: thegreatsze on November 17, 2006, 04:54:51 PM
someone wrote earlier in this thread that acrylics take a long time to cure, even though they might feel dry to the touch after an hour or so.

everytime i pose or re-pose my acrylic-painted kit, some paint will get scratched off, somewhere. this even after applying mr color topcoat. there is no FFA here in singapore. i have purchased Kao Glass Magiclean (which was listed on the All About Future page), but it seems to leave a very uneven and untidy finish (destroyed my Chaos Gundam for this experiment).

anyone have any ideas as to a way out here?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Major Blah on November 18, 2006, 05:43:01 PM
Did you prime your kits?  Try lightly sand the surface of all parts before priming for added grip.  I'm not sure of the Future/Kleer situation in Singapore, but I seem to recall that it was discussed before, try search for it.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Werkbau on November 26, 2006, 04:46:28 AM
Hello everyone :D ,

This is my first post and I got some questions on Mr. Color paints. I want to use the paint using a handbrush, because my Parent's compessor exploded  :cry:. What is the best amount of Mr. color thinner for the paint? I have to finish my first MG F91 this week for an Asian competition. :(
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: OmegaZEROCustom on December 07, 2006, 12:24:33 PM
OK, since the new Strike Freedom MG is on its way, and I've ordered one of each (Full Burst and reglar), I wanted to make the regular one into a Phase Shift Down mode. I've done this before on a few kits so I have an idea of what color should generally go where. The problem I'm having, and I've tried to test this on some scrap parts from some old destroyed kits, is that I want to get a metallic gold that has the powered down look.

I want to use the silver->clear yellow Kandy Koat method as thats what I plan to use on the joints on the Full Burst kit for the frame since its all gold under the armor. The problem I'm having is I can't find a way to keep a very faint gold color with the dark color over the top. The method I tried so far was to use the Kandy Koat, then spray the clear smoke color over the top, but it just drains the gold look as soon as it goes on and just looks like a reflective smokey color. The otehr method I tried was a mix of 80% silver/20% gun metal. with the yellow over the top. Problem with that is it looks....muddy underneath the yellow.

The only other thing I can think of is to use the Tamiya Gold I have and hit that with the smoke, or mix the smoke into it before I spray. Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can basically mute the Kandy Koat and give the dark Phase Shift Down look I want?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on December 07, 2006, 12:29:50 PM
Try Tamiya Titanium Gold.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: OmegaZEROCustom on December 07, 2006, 02:02:13 PM
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Try Tamiya Titanium Gold.


I take it you mean use the Titanium Gold and then hit it with the smoke over the top? I have some Titanium Gold coming in tomorrow, so I'll give that a shot and see how it works.

Thanks for the advice.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on December 07, 2006, 02:16:20 PM
No... I just mean use titanium gold. It's a dull gold color. Smoke would make it darker, but unneccesarily so IMO.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: OmegaZEROCustom on December 07, 2006, 03:24:40 PM
Hmmm, I'll have to look at it and spray a few pieces. I can't find a screenshot of the Phase Shift Down Strike Freedom, so I'm not 100% sure how dark it is supposed to be. I just know its not supposed to be super shiny or anything, so I'll test out the Titanium Gold and see how that looks.

In the event I'm looking to make it darker, do you have any suggestion of something to lay over the top or mix with it that won't take away the metallic? I was thinking a few drops of Gun Metal could darken it a bit more? Like I said, I'm going for a darkened color that has a hint of very dull gold to it.

Thanks again, I appreciate the advice very much.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: D:Fuse on December 07, 2006, 03:48:11 PM
Can I spray a clear lacquer color (Mr. Color Clear and such) for top coat over tamiya acrylic paint?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zoccoli on December 08, 2006, 10:35:17 PM
Quote from: "OmegaZEROCustom"

In the event I'm looking to make it darker, do you have any suggestion of something to lay over the top or mix with it that won't take away the metallic? I was thinking a few drops of Gun Metal could darken it a bit more? Like I said, I'm going for a darkened color that has a hint of very dull gold to it.
What about a very thin wash? Maybe just 5-10% plain flat black mixed?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: OmegaZEROCustom on December 09, 2006, 12:09:49 AM
Hmm, I totally didn't consider doing a wash. Thats worth a shot. I'll try that tomorrow when I test out the Titanium Gold.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: D:Fuse on December 10, 2006, 11:48:04 AM
How would one go about in painting the gold on the gun as seen on this picture when the factory piece is all in white color?  http://www.outthere.info/BAKUC06/SGBAKUC06_25.JPG

Airbrush + masking tape or hand brush? And which type of paint is more easy to work with?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on December 10, 2006, 12:24:59 PM
Quote from: "D:Fuse"
How would one go about in painting the gold on the gun as seen on this picture when the factory piece is all in white color?  http://www.outthere.info/BAKUC06/SGBAKUC06_25.JPG

Airbrush + masking tape or hand brush? And which type of paint is more easy to work with?


Masking tape/solution would work. Whether you want to airbrush or handbrush really depends on how much needs to be painted, the desired texture, and your skill with both methods. I find paint to be a matter of preference. My reccomendation would be a thicker paint for handbrushing (like un-thinned enamel) and a thinner paint for airbrushing (acryllic or thinned enamel/laquer).

If you wanted to get that type of finish that's shown in the picture, though, I'd recommend you first paint the white surface gloss black first. That really makes metallic colors stand out more. However, you can experiment with base colors to get the effect you desire. I remember Funaka did that with his Flaming Red Zeong. (http://fichtenfoo.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1004)

Good luck with it, man.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: D:Fuse on December 10, 2006, 01:11:37 PM
Quote from: "Shadowfire"

Masking tape/solution would work. Whether you want to airbrush or handbrush really depends on how much needs to be painted, the desired texture, and your skill with both methods. I find paint to be a matter of preference. My reccomendation would be a thicker paint for handbrushing (like un-thinned enamel) and a thinner paint for airbrushing (acryllic or thinned enamel/laquer).

If you wanted to get that type of finish that's shown in the picture, though, I'd recommend you first paint the white surface gloss black first. That really makes metallic colors stand out more. However, you can experiment with base colors to get the effect you desire. I remember Funaka did that with his Flaming Red Zeong. (http://fichtenfoo.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1004)

Good luck with it, man.


Thanks for the tips. I think I will go with airbrush and masking tape solution & see how that turns out. The only thing that I hate about masking tape is that sometimes the paint went out of the edge when some of the tape is not fully attached to the piece.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on December 10, 2006, 01:37:54 PM
Quote from: "D:Fuse"


Thanks for the tips. I think I will go with airbrush and masking tape solution & see how that turns out. The only thing that I hate about masking tape is that sometimes the paint went out of the edge when some of the tape is not fully attached to the piece.


Use some sort of (improvised) burnishing tool to press down the edges of the masking tape to the surface of the model. If you don't have an actual burnisher (is that what it's called?) you could use a toothpick, q-tip, and in some extreme cases, even a marble, lol.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: D:Fuse on December 10, 2006, 02:29:47 PM
Quote from: "Shadowfire"

Use some sort of (improvised) burnishing tool to press down the edges of the masking tape to the surface of the model. If you don't have an actual burnisher (is that what it's called?) you could use a toothpick, q-tip, and in some extreme cases, even a marble, lol.


Yea I think I will also use liquid masking for the middle large area in additions.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on December 18, 2006, 09:50:44 PM
So lately, I've been working on many miscellaneous modelling projects. While still working on the construction/modification of my gunpla models, I decided to take a break paint my younger bro's little tamiya racer car. As of now, I'm using spray cans because I haven't bought a compressor. I figure I'll save up money right now since I don't need one until I'm done with all 3-5 gunpla projects (that'll be awhile, lol). As most of you know spray cans (at least Testor's Spray) is unthinned and after I sprayed some on the already-primed body of the car, a bit of the paint pooled at two places on the car. I (being the imbecil I am) grabbed a piece of paper and scraped as much of the excess pooled paint as I could. However, Some of it already dried underneath. It's messed up the testure of the surface of the car and what I'd like to know is, waht you guys would suggest that I do. Right now, I'm just thinking of gently sanding away the affected portions and then paint over it again. The problem is, I'm afraid of ruining the whole paint job, therefore, I'd like some help, please. Thank you all.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: braxat2000 on December 18, 2006, 10:51:48 PM
Hi shadowfire,
As I see it you have two main options:

To remove all paint and repaint (there is a manual in the forums telling how, and I don't think you'll find the products I use in your country anyway :)).

To sand the problamatic area and repaint.

I would try the second one first, as removing all the paint can be messy, and will require more work. Just sand the area until you can smooth it with finer sand paper, and repaint.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on December 19, 2006, 05:42:02 AM
And when you're re-painting, do it in several lighter coats, as opposed to trying to get the whole thing covered evenly on one shot. Due to the nature of spray paint, this is most likely what caused the excess build-up on your first attempt.

Spray paint really doesn't take that long to dry. It's better to wait it out and get it on right than get in a hurry and do it over several times.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: TCTheGreat on December 21, 2006, 03:21:22 PM
i've looked just about every local hobbie shop in the area, and none of them carry tamiya enamel paint, only testors... and i went to taimya USA's website, it's not even there... so where do u guys get it??
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on December 22, 2006, 05:10:36 PM
I don't believe Tamiya makes enamel paints, man.

My question is:

Have any of you ever used Testors brand Metalizer Paints? If so, would you have any advice, tips, or just anything to say about those paints and their use?

I'd like to get some info about them since my uncle just bought me some (Two small bottles of Metalizer Titanium for airbrush use, one spray can of Metalizer Gunmetal, a small bottle of Metalizer Thinner and a spray can of Metalizer Sealant.)

I had asked for Alcad II paints or something similar, lol.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Whale Gamer on December 22, 2006, 07:35:47 PM
Yes, Tamiya makes enamels

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/enamel_1.htm
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: arbalest on December 23, 2006, 10:37:14 PM
Hi does anyone know whats the easiest method to remove MR.Color "Laquer Based" paints? I guess i am looking to see if there's any everyday chemicals (i.e mr.clean) or easy to get checmical products to get anywhere any advice is greatly appreciated
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: TCTheGreat on December 25, 2006, 04:37:53 PM
i used nail polish remover...
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Artic Fox on December 25, 2006, 06:14:27 PM
engine degreaser, just be careful with it
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: fox_60289 on December 27, 2006, 10:59:51 PM
Well I looked around and read both the airbrushing and the paint help threads and couldn't find any specifics on this, so I figured this would be a good place to ask.

How exactly do you mix your thinner and paint? I'm not asking the ratio's. I'm refering to the process of getting it out of that itty bitty bottle and getting just the right amount of thinner in with it?? I have a tendency to make a mess, and not get the right ratios. A little bit of help and advice would be great.

Thanks,
Andrew
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on December 27, 2006, 11:11:45 PM
Quote from: "fox_60289"
How exactly do you mix your thinner and paint? I'm not asking the ratio's. I'm refering to the process of getting it out of that itty bitty bottle and getting just the right amount of thinner in with it??

Pipettes! (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasteur_pipette)
(for hand-painting, I just eyeball it till it looks/feels like the right mix ratio)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: fox_60289 on December 27, 2006, 11:18:52 PM
:lol:

Ha, I just found this killer flash tutorial on how to do all this stuff on a link of the MG tutorial.

Pipettes, I like that better than the eye dropper thing. How do you clean them when your done??

Thanks for the help!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on December 27, 2006, 11:24:44 PM
Quote from: "fox_60289"
How do you clean them when your done??

They're really, really cheap (like, around 10 for $1.00). As such, they're usually easier to replace than to clean.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: kaixa on January 06, 2007, 07:05:20 AM
Guys, what's your ratio for paint:solvent for acrylic paint ?

i use gunze (mr. color) paint with water as the solvent. (It works)

i usually do something like (paint:water ratio) 60:40 or 70:30.

Well, any thoughts what's the best ratio. How can you tell by just looking at it ?

Thanx :)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on January 06, 2007, 08:04:15 AM
Quote from: "kaixa"
Guys, what's your ratio for paint:solvent for acrylic paint ?

i use gunze (mr. color) paint with water as the solvent. (It works)

i usually do something like (paint:water ratio) 60:40 or 70:30.

Well, any thoughts what's the best ratio. How can you tell by just looking at it ?

Thanx :)

You didn't say whether you're hand-painting or using an airbrush. Your ratios are closer to hand-painting, though. I'm using Tamiya acrylics and 91% alcohol as thinner. And the problem is usually that the consistency of thickness between color is pretty bad. Un-thinned, "Gunmetal" is more like a syrup, and it seems like "Flat Red" barely needs to be thinned at all.

I usually try to run a 60:40 ratio for hand-painting (again, depending on the color). I can tell by moving the paint around on the mixing "tray" if it's too thick or too thin. And then I just try to either add more alcohol to thin it out; or give it a few minutes to burn off some alcohol to thicken up. For hand-painting, you don't want the paint watery, but you still want it thin. Probably somewhere around the consistency of chicken broth--or my mother's Thanksgiving gravy.
:sick:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: kaixa on January 06, 2007, 08:58:29 AM
ah, i am sorry. I use the paint for airbrushing.

well, when i use ratio like 1:1 with gunze, the paint is too thin. Hardly useful :|
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: donovan on January 10, 2007, 01:31:04 PM
Is there any way to make fluorescent paint? I'm guessing probably not.

I need a fluorescent pink. Tamiya makes a decent fluorescent pink, but it's only for polycarb R/C bodies and only in a spray can.

I looked around at my LHS for some other acrylic that is fluorescent, but didn't find anything. I looked online and didn't find much either.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Donovan

P.S. - Sorry, thought this would go outside the paint sticky.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Mindless on January 10, 2007, 03:14:16 PM
Quote from: "donovan"
Is there any way to make fluorescent paint? I'm guessing probably not.

I need a fluorescent pink. Tamiya makes a decent fluorescent pink, but it's only for polycarb R/C bodies and only in a spray can.

I looked around at my LHS for some other acrylic that is fluorescent, but didn't find anything. I looked online and didn't find much either.

Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Donovan

P.S. - Sorry, thought this would go outside the paint sticky.


You have any local shops that deal with painting cars? I bet they have some, and as you would probably only need a few drops of it shouldn't cost you much. It's worth a shot in my opinion.

As for the Tamiya paint, correct me if I'm wrong but it shouldn't matter if it's supposed to be used on polycarbonate R/C bodies. As long as you have a good primer and there are no strange solvents in the paint that can dissipate the primer there shouldn't be a problem.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: GlauG on January 10, 2007, 03:57:21 PM
Gunze/Mr Colour do a very bright flourescent pink, I have some somewhere I'll be using on a Meer Zaku sometime.  Number 174.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tehmarken on January 12, 2007, 05:26:20 PM
So I went through my first session of airbrushing today, and I learned some things.

I learned that the Vallejo acrylics I bought are like some sort of acrylic concentrate >_< . I had to keep thinning them over and over, and to get them to spray properly through my airbrush (which runs at 15psi) I ended up with a ratio of about 70:30, thinner:paint (isopropyl 91% for thinner).

This ended up working out ok for my first few parts, but then when I went to switch colours disaster hit. The "camouflage green" I picked up did not want to mix with alcohol. It ended up more like a suspended solution (like lemonade or bad tea), and would spurt out of the airbrush, and then clog it up horribly. No amount of thinner or rigorous mixing was working for the stuff.

So, after some rigourus dismantling and cleaning of my airbrush, I gave dark green a shot. At first I had some clogging problems, but I cleaned the airbrush again and thinned the paint more. I think I ended up at least 70:30, if not 80:20 thinner:paint. I finally got some consistent painting done, and coloured a few pieces of my Zaku's skirt armour painted.

So, I'm wondering if there are any better thinners I could try using? I think Vallejos are water-based acrylics, so would water work as a better solvent than Isopropyl?

The only other paint locally available for me is Games Workshop / Citadel paints. Have people had good experience airbrushing with them?

If I can't get a good system down for using Vallejo or Citadels, I may end up just ordering Tamiya's from online somewhere. There aren't many hobby shops around here, and the few I've found have cruddy selection for paint =\
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 12, 2007, 05:34:35 PM
You just got the thinners confused. Not all acrylics thin with Alcohol. In fact Tamiya is the main one that does. For others, use their thinner or water. I put "Tamiya Acrylics" on my tutorial, but every so often I get an email asking why their Gunze or other paint gummed up with 91%. :oops: Try water instead... that should help.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tehmarken on January 12, 2007, 05:48:20 PM
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
You just got the thinners confused. Not all acrylics thin with Alcohol. In fact Tamiya is the main one that does. For others, use their thinner or water. I put "Tamiya Acrylics" on my tutorial, but every so often I get an email asking why their Gunze or other paint gummed up with 91%. :oops: Try water instead... that should help.


I should have figured that water based meant I should have used water as a thinner   :oops:

Does that mean for cleaning the airbrush I should use just water? Or what sort of cleaning solution would be best?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 12, 2007, 05:52:28 PM
If you have a spraybooth then use lacquer thinner occasionally. Wear a good mask too. For general clean-up between colors some water mixed with detergent then plain water does the trick.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zoccoli on January 13, 2007, 12:51:58 PM
Could someone please run through the different paint types (e.g. acrylic, enamel, laquer) and briefly describe which paints do and don't play well together? I finally got some Alclad paints, but I'm afraid to spray them on any pieces that already have acrylic paint on them. Is a coat of Future enough to protect the acrylics from the thinner in the Alclad, or will masking be enough protection?

Specifically, I have two situations in  mind: 1) spraying the Alclad on a small area of an acrylic-covered piece as a trim color; 2) replacing an acrylic color with the Alclad by respraying and not stripping the acrylic first. Will I damage the plastic or get a poor finish in either case?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on January 13, 2007, 05:11:48 PM
Arcylics and enamels tend to not play together at all. As to your specific question with the Alclad, I don't know. You might try testing it out on a piece of sprue to see what happens (and then post the results, of course).
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tehmarken on January 13, 2007, 10:21:33 PM
So I'm having some trouble trying to figure whether to mix my paint thicker or thinner. I'm using these vallejo acrylics, and mixing about 70:30 water:paint. The paint goes on ok, but the first few coats tend to go on like water on a waxed surface (beads up a lot). And I'm noticing it takes a long time to dry, which is leading to paint buildup in some spots.

I don't want to waste paint by thickening it up and then finding out it needs to be thinned more, so I'm asking here first.

Also, I ahve a pack of Gundam Color paints, are those lacquer or water based, and what sort of thinning ratio should I use for those?

Anyways, thanks for the help so far, hope I'm not being annoying with so many questions.  :razz:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Zoccoli on January 13, 2007, 10:51:27 PM
Quote from: "zerobxu"
You might try testing it out on a piece of sprue to see what happens (and then post the results, of course).

Gladly! I went for the gold (so to speak) and tried it on my in-progress kit.  :oops:

These parts were all primed with Mr. Surfacer 500 and then sprayed with Tamiya acrylics. The base coat was flat black, and gold titanium was the original intended final color. (It turned out to be too silvery for what I needed.) This was my first time spraying with Alclad paints, but I'm very, very pleased with the results. The lacquer paints do not seem to have mixed with the unprotected acrylic undercoat at all! The gold in the pictures is Alclad pale gold, and the outsides of the thruster bells are Alclad steel. I think I'm in love with these paints.  :lol:

http://imagesocket.com/view/DSCF1499s3b7.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/DSCF1501s79e.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/DSCF1502sacc.jpg
http://imagesocket.com/view/DSCF1504s0b6.jpg
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Chibs on January 14, 2007, 01:38:03 AM
Is there any other option besides airbrushing to use alclad paint?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 14, 2007, 08:04:49 AM
Quote from: "Chibs"
Is there any other option besides airbrushing to use alclad paint?


No. It's airbrush only.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: beertax on February 08, 2007, 12:18:31 AM
Hello,

This is a very basic question from a modelling noob :)

When mixing two colors to create a custom color, what tool is best for transferring the paint from bottle to bottle? I tried using a brush which did a reasonable job, but I find the extraneous paint left over on the brush to be wasteful. There must be a more economical, exact approach. Can anyone recommend a better way?

thx in advance for any replies
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on February 08, 2007, 05:59:11 AM
Quote from: "beertax"
When mixing two colors to create a custom color, what tool is best for transferring the paint from bottle to bottle?

The answer can be found in this very sticky, in this very post (http://fichtenfoo.com/v-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?p=21768#21768): Pipettes.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: AJL on February 15, 2007, 03:53:54 PM
Hi,

Not sure if this question belongs here or elsewhere ....

In reading a lot of descriptions of model painting, people refer to washes and pin washes.  I'm not certain on what the difference between the two are. Can someone explain the difference please?  

I'm guessing that a wash covers the whole area, whereas a pin wash is done using very thinned paint, i.e. in wash consistency, to only paint the nooks and crannys of a model, i.e. panel lines, corners etc rather than across a whole panel.

I've tried searching for an explaination but nothing clear has come up.

Cheers,
Ant.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on February 15, 2007, 04:01:47 PM
Yeah... that's pretty much what it is. A pin-wash is just going to go into panel lines for a clean look, while a full wash is going to go over everything for a weathered look.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: bean on February 19, 2007, 03:09:04 AM
I hope this isn't a repost, but I was just wondering what the best thinning ratio was for tamiya white, does anyone know of something with consistent results?  I've been trying to do some preshading, so when I use low pressure, it tends to spurt out, unless I move the trigger back, but then the spray is to big to do any preshading.  help please...
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Mindless on February 19, 2007, 04:27:54 AM
Quote from: "bean"
I hope this isn't a repost, but I was just wondering what the best thinning ratio was for tamiya white, does anyone know of something with consistent results?  I've been trying to do some preshading, so when I use low pressure, it tends to spurt out, unless I move the trigger back, but then the spray is to big to do any preshading.  help please...


One word my friend: Trial-and-error (actually three words...)

It all depends on what kind of airbrush you are using, what kind of pressure you spray at, etc. etc.

Some may prefer 70/30 (paint/thinner) while other may prefer 50/50 and just dust it on in several layers.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: TheZen on February 20, 2007, 08:35:32 PM
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Arcylics and enamels tend to not play together at all.


Meaning having a bottom coat of enamel then putting a top coat of acrylic or vice versa is bad?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on February 20, 2007, 08:48:22 PM
Quote from: "TheZen"
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Arcylics and enamels tend to not play together at all.


Meaning having a bottom coat of enamel then putting a top coat of acrylic or vice versa is bad?

In my direct experience with hand painting? Yes. Very much so. Even with a clear coat--or multiple clear coats (of any kind) between them. The only exception would possibly be dry-brushing acrylics over enamels. That can work if you're careful.

Again, that's just my direct experience with hand-brushing.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: TheZen on February 20, 2007, 08:54:45 PM
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Quote from: "TheZen"
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Arcylics and enamels tend to not play together at all.


Meaning having a bottom coat of enamel then putting a top coat of acrylic or vice versa is bad?

In my direct experience with hand painting? Yes. Very much so. Even with a clear coat--or multiple clear coats (of any kind) between them. The only exception would possibly be dry-brushing acrylics over enamels. That can work if you're careful.

Again, that's just my direct experience with hand-brushing.


Would the same apply to airbrushing ? (sorry forgot to mention airbrushing, but at least I know for hand brushing :) )

Side question: Where can one find pipettes locally (in the general location, i.e hardware stores, art stores...etc o.O )
I was thinking of just using syringes (gf's dad works at the hospital) that way I dont lose much paint (vaccum effect in the syringe along with rubber thingy) or thats just over-kill o.o XD

Thanks for the quick reply btw :)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Mindless on February 20, 2007, 10:04:25 PM
Quote from: "TheZen"
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Quote from: "TheZen"
Quote from: "zerobxu"
Arcylics and enamels tend to not play together at all.


Meaning having a bottom coat of enamel then putting a top coat of acrylic or vice versa is bad?

In my direct experience with hand painting? Yes. Very much so. Even with a clear coat--or multiple clear coats (of any kind) between them. The only exception would possibly be dry-brushing acrylics over enamels. That can work if you're careful.

Again, that's just my direct experience with hand-brushing.


Would the same apply to airbrushing ? (sorry forgot to mention airbrushing, but at least I know for hand brushing :) )

Side question: Where can one find pipettes locally (in the general location, i.e hardware stores, art stores...etc o.O )
I was thinking of just using syringes (gf's dad works at the hospital) that way I dont lose much paint (vaccum effect in the syringe along with rubber thingy) or thats just over-kill o.o XD

Thanks for the quick reply btw :)


With a clearcoat (preferably future since it's harder when dry) inbetween, there shouldn't be a problem. I've successfully painted acrylics (Tamiya) over enamels (Humbrol, Modelmaster, etc.) and had no problems with the layers dissolving eachother.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on February 21, 2007, 05:41:43 AM
Quote from: "TheZen"
Side question: Where can one find pipettes locally (in the general location, i.e hardware stores, art stores...etc o.O )
I was thinking of just using syringes (gf's dad works at the hospital) that way I dont lose much paint (vaccum effect in the syringe along with rubber thingy) or thats just over-kill o.o XD

I just snagged a few at HobbyTown, more for convenience than price. They were either 25 or 50 cents apiece. Not the best price, but they didn't exactly burn a hole in my wallet, either. Testors sells a pack of pipettes and jars under their Modelmasters line which you should be able to find at a larger craft store, like Hobby Lobby (or HobbyTown). Of course, throwing the jars into the mix inflates the price to around $5.00(?) for the set. Then again, Hobby Lobby almost always has a 40% off coupon available to print off their website (click here (http://www.hobbylobby.com/site3/weekly/weekly.cfm), and then click on "View Coupon").
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: TheZen on February 21, 2007, 10:58:54 PM
Hm. fairly positive we don't have any HobbyTown or Hobby Lobby in Montreal. Though it means that I should be able to find it in local hobby stores or crafts stores.

Thanks for the info :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on February 22, 2007, 05:45:53 AM
Quote from: "TheZen"
Hm. fairly positive we don't have any HobbyTown or Hobby Lobby in Montreal.

You're absolutely right--they don't have stores outside the U.S. Maybe Major Blah can weigh in with a suggestion?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Major Blah on February 22, 2007, 08:00:49 AM
Well in Canada I don't think there are big chains for hobby stores like in the US, so I think your best bet is to check local hobby store or science-supply stores.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: AJL on February 28, 2007, 03:15:41 PM
Hello again.

To follow on from my previous question about the difference between a wash and a pin wash .... what's the difference between a filter and a wash?

Thanks  :oops:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: AJL on March 01, 2007, 03:07:48 AM
Sorry, ignore me, I've found an answer on mig's website:

http://www.missing-lynx.com/rare_world/rw02.htm

Also found this step-by-step guide which is helpful if you're new to filters like me.

http://ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm


I'll shut-up now  :oops:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: SNT1 on March 26, 2007, 06:48:40 AM
I have a question about Modelmaster Acryl paints, searched and I found nothing about it on this forum (and couldnt find good info on google; wither I suck at searching or its just not a popular line)

Should I still thin it, and what paint:thinner ratio to use?  It apparently says 'pre-thinned' and ready to airbrush, but when I opened the bottle its really gunky at the bottom, and if I stir it/AB it out of the bottle I still might get a thick consistency.

Also, what should I thin it with?  I searched and lurked here and see someone mention that MM acryl may not work with the usual 91% alcohol that we all use on Tamiya Acrylics (clogging AB).

Thanks!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on March 26, 2007, 07:06:36 AM
I checked their website and if you click here (http://www.testors.com/help/faq_detail.asp?faqNbr=10), it does say "All colors, except Figure Model Paints which feature thicker viscosity for better brushing, are airbrushable directly from the bottle-no thinning necessary (some flats may need thinning when spraying fine lines)."

With that being said, I have no direct airbrush experience with their paints. However, I was using a some Model Master Acryl this weekend on that T34 I'm working on. Although I'm hand-brushing, it definitely needed thinning. In fact, I had to strip some of the paint because I didn't thin it enough the first time around. For thinning, I did use 91% alcohol, and didn't experience any direct problems as a result.

Again, this was hand-brushing the paint, and experience by airbrush may be completely different.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FilmMkr on March 26, 2007, 08:40:53 AM
Thin it with Acryl thinner for airbrushing or you will not get one speck of paint on your model.

And you'll have a helluva mess to clean out of your airbrush, too!



Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: SNT1 on March 26, 2007, 11:49:39 AM
@zerobxu:  yeah, my experience is on par with your when dealing with MM: basically thinning a lil' bit and working it perfectly handpainting.

Thin it with Acryl thinner for airbrushing or you will not get one speck of paint on your model.

And you'll have a helluva mess to clean out of your airbrush, too!

that's exactly the thing I was trying to avoid, clogging the AB  :lol:

After searching a lil' bit I finally found a MM acryl thinner online; anyone know the ideal paint:thinner ratio for these paints?

Thanks again for the info!

edit-bad spelling

Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: HKR on March 26, 2007, 01:56:00 PM
When I first started modeling, I had one of those cheepo Testors airbrushes you can get at walmart.  I had also picked up some model masters paint because according to the bottle it was prethinned and ready for airbrushing.

It wasn't.  The paint went on super thick and gunky, and pretty much ruined the model (HGUC RX-79).  So that's my experience with them.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: StormKat on March 29, 2007, 10:38:09 AM
I use Model Masters paints.  I thin it with 91% alcohol at 50:50 and it seems to do ok.  If the consistency is still not right, just add a drop or two more of alcohol.  It is always easier to spray more coats of too thin paint than try to fix paint that's too thick.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Arthurius on May 15, 2007, 08:07:01 PM
I would soon be using an airbrush.  I needed some tips with WHITE color.  I mostly have Tamiya Paints.  I wanted to paint some of them white.  For tamiya white, do i need to pre-coat it first?? I hurd there may be some problems with Tamiya White.  Any suggestions.  Any other brands.  Mind you, for all the other colors, i would still be using Tamiya, so i dont want there to be any problems.  Thx guys
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: clee-cm on May 15, 2007, 09:06:24 PM
I have found Tamiya White colored paint is some what translucent, what I mean is that the original color of the plastic will show through after the first coat, if you don't use primer. if you are going to be airbrushing with the white paint, you will need to use white or grey primer first; either something like Tamiya primer or Autobody primer. (if you can get it).

You will have to apply more than one coat of paint regardless of what kind of primer you use. My advice is to coat the model with primer, let it set complete for a few days, then slowly paint the model white, one coat at a time.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Arthurius on May 17, 2007, 07:33:18 PM
Damn, the white tamiya seems harder than i thoughed from what you are describing.  Any recommendation on another brand i should use, and maybe their web site, and that is usable with other tamiya colors???
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: clee-cm on May 17, 2007, 08:23:33 PM
If you want to paint a model white, you have work to do either way, white paint is semi-translucent no no matter what brand you buy, especially Acrylic Paint. My advice is this, spray the model with primer, this will prevent the color of the plastic from tinting the white; then airbrush the white paint on the model, this way there is less work.

You will have to put on multiple coats of paint but, it is just a little more work than other colors, a little time and patience and the model will be painted white.

Other brands, I have used Gunzy Sangyo, and testors, but Tamiya is still your best bet.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: PointZero on May 27, 2007, 02:11:44 AM
There's always the option of buying tube acrylic, where it comes out much thicker and you have a little more control over how thick/thin you want the consistency to be. I love using these when I handpaint because it helps with adherence to the plastic.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: psycho_killer on July 07, 2007, 06:45:04 AM
hi i have some question about mixing paint.
why is it you can't mix black and blue(tamiya acrylic) to make a dark blue, it just doesn't mix, it became a black+blue and it's like mud. I'm trying to paint force impulse gundam and  i'm having problem mixing for the dark blue and light blue, can anybody help me with mixing color

here is the link to force impulse gundam : http://www.tisinc99.com/gd134106.html
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on July 07, 2007, 06:52:22 AM
You're probably mixing too much black in. Start with blue, then mix a touch of black in at a time. A little black goes a long way.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: NickC on July 07, 2007, 09:38:05 AM
I was wondering if Finisher's Lacquer paints will work on the polycarbonate bodies of R/C cars.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: psycho_killer on July 12, 2007, 04:33:51 AM
hi, i'm having problem in coating the paint into flat

I'm using FFA + flat base tamiya acrylic, and i following the tutorial, mike said that mix up to 30% for flat or dull, but although i'm mixing little by little it never came like i wanted it:deep and flat color like when i added the flat base directly to the paint, but like semi gloss. If i add more tamiya acrylic it became white spot(like to much flat base).
The flat base is like white mud??? and it separate the clear liquid like oil, i stir before using.

please help me, is there something wrong?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Alpha 54 on July 25, 2007, 07:15:49 PM
Do you have to mix a retarder with Tamiya Acrylics when thinning with 91% alcohol?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on July 26, 2007, 05:18:02 AM
Do you have to mix a retarder with Tamiya Acrylics when thinning with 91% alcohol?
No.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Climax-Zero on September 07, 2007, 12:12:26 AM
Is it okay to leave a solution of Thinner and Paint mixed together (ready for airbrushing) kept away like normal paint?

I don't know whether this may affect the paint in any way
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ezechiel on September 07, 2007, 01:00:02 AM
It'll dry if not stored in a closed container. Other than that it's fine.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Climax-Zero on September 07, 2007, 01:40:24 AM
Thanks again! I can use the original bottle as long as it's tight...
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ezechiel on September 07, 2007, 02:09:16 AM
Yes, Tamiya bottles are great for that, for example. Always keep them once they're empty.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chiyochagi on October 21, 2007, 02:53:26 AM
I wanna ask you guys something.

I tried to handbrush a detail using tamiya acrylic paints, and the part had been primed too.
But the paint wouldn't stick to the parts. I've tried adding layers but it didn't seem right.

The result: real mess

I asked my friend and he said to use enamel instead of acrylics. Is this true?
or is there a trick to create desired results? The acrylics won't stick.

Help is much appreciated

Thx in advance
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ezechiel on October 21, 2007, 04:42:50 AM
Welcome.
Yes, enamel's the best for hand painting. Acrylics work best with an airbrush.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: CaptainPlastic on October 21, 2007, 09:14:41 PM
Removed.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chiyochagi on October 22, 2007, 01:35:41 AM
Welcome.
Yes, enamel's the best for hand painting. Acrylics work best with an airbrush.

thx for the info. I knew it!! :lol:
So, all I got to do is find a fine handbrush, an enamel paint, and enamel thinner, right?
What's the ratio for thinning the enamel paint for handbrushing details?

Do i need to prime it first?

and if enamel is used for washing? What's the ratio?

Thx in advance ; :P
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on October 22, 2007, 06:25:31 AM
Were you thinning your Tamiya acrylic paints before applying them? Honestly, I don't own an airbrush, so all I do is hand-paint and 95% of the time, I use Tamiya acrylics. As long as I thin them down with 91% alcohol, I've never had a problem.

I use a ratio of acrylic:alcohol somewhere between 70:30 and 60:40. Basically, you want to get it to nearly a water-like consistency. And if you thin it too much, wait a few minutes. As the alcohol evaporates, the paint thickens.

A result of that is that, if you're painting a large area in a single color, you'll probably need to add more alcohol to your paint tray at some point while you're still applying paint to the model.

... And a good, quality set of brushes makes a lot of difference, too.  :D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chiyochagi on October 23, 2007, 07:41:10 AM
i never used 91% alcohol. I always used regular tamiya acrylic thinner and it sucks in handbrushing details. The paint won't stick at all

Guess enamel's the way... Don't think i have 91% alcohol in my local hobby store
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: zerobxu on October 23, 2007, 08:03:20 AM
Guess enamel's the way... Don't think i have 91% alcohol in my local hobby store
You won't find it at your local hobby store. I usually find mine in the pharmacy section at Wal Mart. I prefer alcohol over Tamiya thinner because it's MUCH cheaper, readily available, and works very well (at least, with Tamiya acrylics).

I'm still not convinced the paint or thinner is the problem here (though I won't rule it out). Specifically what colors are you using, and how much thinner are you adding to the paint? Some photographs of where you're mixing your paint with thinner and the unfortunate applied results might be helpful here, too.

I'm not saying you shouldn't go to enamels. I'm just saying that I've been hand-brushing for more than a few years now, and primarily with Tamiya acrylics. For my money, they're the best paint I can get for hand painting.
 8)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chiyochagi on October 24, 2007, 02:01:45 AM
so tamiya acrylic thinner and 91% alcohol is a different thing u said?

I thought it is the same thing  :twitch: that's why i never try it

maybe I'll try using alcohol 91% instead of tamiya acrylic thinners for handbrushing...

we'll see the result.

btw, can we also use the alcohol for airbrushing?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Csi111 on January 30, 2008, 03:52:00 AM
Hiya

I saw a post earlier in this thread about fluorescent paint but it was about if there was any out there.

I know that most brands of hobby paints are NOT recommended to be mixed together, but Tamiya (the only paints I have ready access to) do not do a Fluoro Pink acrylic.  They do a PS and a TS (I think) paint can, but I think both are Lacquer based.  Gunze do (did) an aqueous hobby line of acrylics and a fluoro pink in that range, so can I mix these two paints?

Like I said, not having ready access to anything other than Tamiya, I am hoping someone on here will have tried the mix before.

Reason for this, I see many kits where a bit of fluoro has been added to a base colour (primarily blue or white) and the resultant colour really pings out at you.

So, does anyone know if the Gunze aqueous hobby paints (acrylics) mix well with Tamiya acrylics?  If not does anyone have any suggestions for getting a hint of fluoro pink into a Tamiya acrylic paint?

Thanks
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chiyochagi on February 22, 2008, 04:30:52 PM
I've just seen this site
http://f7.aaa.livedoor.jp/~mesarion/gallery/sazabisp2/sazabisp2.htm

this guy's kinda pro and he created many models

what i want to ask is..
The modified boosters have gold metalic colors. Can it be achieved using handbrush? Or is he simply just modify the parts with metallic parts?

Because, I have tried handbrushing the titanium gold and the results weren't good enough

I've got issues with handbrush allright

oh, any tips/technique to achieve good handbrushing with tamiya acrylics? Can I handbrush without using thinner/alcohol91%?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: wingstrike on March 09, 2008, 10:08:58 PM
Hey guys, not sure if this was mentioned or not, but if i spray lacquer colors over acrylics, would it ruin the acrylice even if it's a thin spray? And was also wondering, would using Mr Color Lacquer colors be better than using Tamiya Acrylics for airbrushing gunpla?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Deus EpS Machina on May 22, 2008, 12:22:45 AM
Question about Paint...

I'm currently doing a MG S Gundam but in Titans colours (never saw one before). Now, my question is how to get the correct blue/purlple for the thing to look right. THIS (http://www.geocities.jp/a2crafts/mk2hizk01.htm) is the shade of blue i would like to use but i cant figure out how to get that. I knew of a link FF threw up saying something like..."If there is one link you click this year, let it be this one" and it had this thing on how to get the right paint combination...Anyone have that link cuz it would help loads. I'm pretty sure adding black to purple will do the trick but i do want to be sure of exactly how much...before i start experimenting.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on May 22, 2008, 06:07:31 AM
Not sure about the blue, but that base is exactly what I was talking about for that Build-off idea.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: nico on May 22, 2008, 07:01:41 AM
Sea blue with red or purple.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: chaos_theory on May 22, 2008, 11:05:00 AM
Hey guys, not sure if this was mentioned or not, but if i spray lacquer colors over acrylics, would it ruin the acrylice even if it's a thin spray? And was also wondering, would using Mr Color Lacquer colors be better than using Tamiya Acrylics for airbrushing gunpla?

In art you always use oils or lacquer based paints over acrylics. If you seal it well and give your paints time to cure completely you shouldn't have any problems.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: EximiusNero on July 28, 2008, 04:05:39 PM
Hi, does anyone know if Gunze's aqueous Hobby Color acrylics need thinning for an airbrush? I tested some out today and it came on kind of gritty and thick. Will water work, or isopropyl alcohol 91% perhaps?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Whale Gamer on August 13, 2008, 03:36:10 PM
water or alcohol will work for acrylics, however I would use the alcohol since varying amount of minerals in the water will interfere with paint to thinner ratios.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: HelicopterPilot on January 31, 2009, 08:29:36 AM
I was wondering if tamiya flat white is thicker than other paints. I was using it in my airbrush and thinned it about the same amount as I do with other paints I got some orange peel effects :doh:. Should I be thinning my flat white more than other acrylic paints? If so how much


Thanks!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 31, 2009, 10:57:07 AM
Yeah, white is thicker so thin it more.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: UltraMagnus on July 24, 2009, 07:22:51 AM
Question on chromed kits.

The accepted strategy seems to be to strip off the original chrome finish and to repaint with lacquer.
When done by an experienced hand this seems to leave a nicely burnished looking finish.

My question:

Is it possible to achieve the original chrome mirror like finish when repainting?
Maybe this finish is not as desirable as the burnished look.
However, the mirror like finish could be desirable for some projects.

Thank you for any comments.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: carlj139 on August 28, 2009, 12:19:26 PM
I wanted to pose a question, and this seems the best place...

But I hate to leave the last post hanging so UltraMagnus - I think the answer is Alclad II paint.  I'm having pretty great success with it on the Z'gok I'm building out right now.  If you airbrush a good shiny black enamel base, then airbrush on at low psi (~15) Alclad II chrome for Plastic will give you that mirror'd look back to stripped parts.

Okay, my turn :P - I am wondering how people "test" finishes.  I just got my first MG Kampfer from HLJ, and I'm not exactly sure what to do with it's color, and I want to see how a couple different processes turn out (pigment powders, color-shift, maybe even see what happens with a dull candycoat)

Should I just go buy some HG or SD kit for cheap?  Get a sheet of styrene, and tape off? I even swear at some point I saw Gamera test painting (polystyrene?) balls on his site someplace...

How do people fully test colors ?

Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on August 28, 2009, 04:04:17 PM
Once you do enough kits, there's inevitably some leftover pieces. Those make great paint tests.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Paliodor on February 10, 2010, 07:36:25 AM
Hi guys,
I hope it's the right section of the forum to ask about one thing.
I'm working on my 1/100 Saviour Gundam it's my first painted model and I would like to ask which paint will be the best for the hands and inner frame? I was thinking about Tamiya XF-22 RLM Grey but dunno if it's the right paint color for those parts of the model. Could you tell me what color you use?
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: makalaka on February 10, 2010, 06:57:15 PM
Hi guys,
I hope it's the right section of the forum to ask about one thing.
I'm working on my 1/100 Saviour Gundam it's my first painted model and I would like to ask which paint will be the best for the hands and inner frame? I was thinking about Tamiya XF-22 RLM Grey but dunno if it's the right paint color for those parts of the model. Could you tell me what color you use?

Hi. Welcome to the forums.

It's kinda frowned upon to ask for color choices for your kit. The rule generally is; Your kit, your shelf, your decision. That being said, any dark grey color should look good for the inner frame and hands.

If there's a color guide you can just use the colors Bandai recommends. They use Gunze Sangyo line of Mr. Color paints in the guides so you have to look at a few charts translate and get the colors in Tamiya form.

First look at this chart to get the english name of the color.
http://model.cnmsl.net/TechniqueLecture/gunzesjis.htm (http://model.cnmsl.net/TechniqueLecture/gunzesjis.htm)

Then look at this chart to see what Tamiya color matches up with the Mr. Color
http://ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_gunze.htm (http://ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_gunze.htm)
NOTE: The website seems to be down now; hopefully they'll fix it soon.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Paliodor on February 11, 2010, 01:38:19 AM
These pages are quite useful.Now I shouldn't have any problems with that.
Thank you for the help.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Grail on February 12, 2010, 01:33:55 AM
I have questions and could possibly use a translation regarding a painting fix for watermarks and clear scratches.

I have a series of awesome videos with some great modelers,but they are all in Japanese I think.Doesn't matter that I don't understand,I have learned tons just by watching.
There are some steps that this guy performs to fix pin wash watermarks and clear scratches that seem genius.(numbered steps at bottom)I just can't figure out what this product is?
(http://animoceans.com/wp-content/gallery/alternate-posts/vfsb.jpg)
Does anybody know? Can anybody read the images?
(http://animoceans.com/wp-content/gallery/alternate-posts/vfsc.jpg)
Lastly, is there a product I can get at home depot or something that is an equivalent?
I want to say it looks like " Brasso" or something like it,if anybody knows what that is?
Thanks.
Hope this is clear and I can get some replies.
Cheers
(http://animoceans.com/wp-content/gallery/alternate-posts/vfsa.jpg)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Ezechiel on February 12, 2010, 03:17:41 AM
It's compound, you can use it to polish surfaces. You can find plenty (fine to coarse) of types here:
http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Word=compound&SeriTxt1=&GenreCode=All&MacroType=All&Scale=0&Dis=-2
Some say toothpaste also works for that purpose.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: makalaka on February 12, 2010, 07:10:37 AM
@Grail

Looks similar to Novus Polish.
http://www.novuspolish.com/ (http://www.novuspolish.com/)

I got some from my hobby store to clean up the scratches on a helicopter canopy. It worked really well.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Grail on February 14, 2010, 12:12:56 PM
THANKS! I've been trying to figure this out,so the last couple posts were awesome answers. Thanks again. :-) Just a couple additional questions. I noticed the modeler has 9800 and 3000 numbered bottles which I assume is important as it's highlighted on screen. Does this refer to "coarseness" ? If so, It seems he's using coarse and fine grade types? Could you recommend a similar grade coarseness or ANY grade in the 2 compounds mentioned? (Novus and the other from HLJ.) example. "I use the fine for watermarks,and coarse for windows followed by fine on the window". Do either of you think that one is better than the other?, or is it going to be basically the same result with either product ? Thanks again very much for the answers. I have models in holding patterns,this was torturing me. :doh:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: makalaka on February 15, 2010, 02:33:11 PM
You pretty much got it. For Novus, no. 1 is a cleaner/shiner, no. 2 is a fine scratch remover, and no. 3 is a heavy scratch remover. The one I bought at the hobby store came with no. 1 & no. 2 in 2-oz bottles, and some polishing cloths. It worked perfectly on my heli canopy; it's now clear with no scratches, although I have yet to start the kit so I don't know if it'll react to paint/clear coating. To give you an idea of how it worked for scratch removal, I bought the kit on ebay and all the sprues were loose in the box with no bags. The canopy broke free from it's sprue and was freely rubbing against all the other sprues. So, unless you have some really deep scratches you should do just fine with the Novus package I got. That is if it doesn't react to paint or clear coating. The package does say that it leaves a clean greaseless  shine so it should be fine. I think it cost either $10 or $15 from Hobby Town USA.

As to which one is better, I have no clue. Sorry. The hobby grade stuff may be better since they're geared to model kits while Novus is advertised for all things plastic (along with models). I even used some to polish out some old headlights; unfortunately the no. 2 wasn't course enough but it did help some.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Grail on February 15, 2010, 05:58:08 PM
Exactly the answers I needed. Thanks very much. REALLY helpful.

Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: pixelhead on May 09, 2010, 07:35:21 PM
hi, I was wondering whether or not it makes a difference if I use flat or gloss paint for the base layer if i am going to be applying a gloss top coat anyways for panel lining and then another flat top coat to give it a dull look.

thanks!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Pulse on June 05, 2010, 02:03:04 AM
Okay, after doing a massive amount of research, I'm more than convinced that it is best for me to invest in an ab/compressor in order to produce some quality gundams in the future. But before I go and do that, I have several questions that need to be answered.

1. After reading FF's tutorial, he suggested tamiya primer over mr. surfacer and I was wondering can anyone provide me a link to a nice deal of quality tamiya primers? Because when I tried searching online, all I could find was the mr. surfacer primers. How does the 1200 match up to the tamiya primers, do they provide similar quality?

2. I.E, if I were to prime using mr. surfacer, do I have to resort using strictly mr. color paints or are does the TA paint work nicely wth the mr. color stuff?

3. I know that both companies are acrylic based but I also know that some brands hate eachother. At home I have a box full of citadel paints laying around and I was wondering if I could put em to good use. Do the citadel paint work great with the other brands or are they incompatible? Can I use em for airbrushing? How will I go about thinning the citadel stuff? Because when I used em to paint my minis, I usually used water to thin out the paint.

4. I also have these washes from citadel which I believe is acrylic, I'm sure most of you know what they're used for. Anyways I was thinking of using these washes that I have for panel lining but then I heard it works horribly with FFA since that is acrylic based as well. Is there an alternative step for applying the panel lines with the washes or do I have to invest in a different paint for panel lining? If so, suggestions would be nice.

5. After painting and leaving the model to dry/cure, do you secure them in a dry booth or a cover of some sort to protect it from dust? Or do you just leave em on the clips to let dry?

I just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into before going out and purchasing all the paint. Thanks in advance, your replies will be greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: warder120 on November 05, 2011, 08:57:49 AM
First time posting,

I will be airbrushing for the first time and Acrylic paints are my only option at this point.  After applying the acrylic paint and applying several layers of acrylic gloss/matte finish, is it safe to apply enamel dry brushing/pin washes?  If so, is it then safe to apply more layers of acrylic finish over that?  Will the enamel/enamel thinner eat through the acrylic paint?  What if I use FFA?

Thanks
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tmajor on November 05, 2011, 02:01:53 PM
First time posting,

I will be airbrushing for the first time and Acrylic paints are my only option at this point.  After applying the acrylic paint and applying several layers of acrylic gloss/matte finish, is it safe to apply enamel dry brushing/pin washes?  If so, is it then safe to apply more layers of acrylic finish over that?  Will the enamel/enamel thinner eat through the acrylic paint?  What if I use FFA?


Hi there

FFA is acrylic based and makes for a good and inexpensive glossy barrier coat and is a great alternative to the more expensive hobby specific options. It should be left to cure for a day or two. You can then use enamel or oil washes over it and the thinners wont damage the clear coat or acrylic paints underneath. As long as your enamels are good and dry you can apply FFA over them without problem.

You can also alter the sheen of FFA by adding some Tamiya Flat Base to it so your not restricted to gloss. Theres a good article on using FFA here:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
It provides ratios for achieving different sheens.

Hope this helps
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: warder120 on November 05, 2011, 06:45:39 PM
It does help, thank you.  As a question out of pure desire to know, would enamel/thinner eat through the acrylic if there was no finish to protect it?  I know that artists use acrylilc paints underneath oil paints and that works fine.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tmajor on November 06, 2011, 11:08:37 AM
would enamel/thinner eat through the acrylic if there was no finish to protect it?

No, it shouldn't. It will however penetrate the acrylic. So if you have enamels underneath acrylic it will effect them
and as a result probably ruin the acrylic finish on top.

It's best to try an experiment on some scrap.

Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: warder120 on November 06, 2011, 04:42:44 PM
I will do so, thanks for the assistance! :)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: allesbraun on January 11, 2012, 08:45:48 AM
Hi there guys!

This is my first/second post here. There is so much to learn and also so many awesome posts to read.
I believe you guys can help me with a little doubt I have:

I would like to know how would be the best way to achieve a really shiny/glossy(?) paint on a model.

What I want to do is to get the colors on the model to look something like the red and blue on this model, they look so vibrant.

(http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/6663/wfcoptimusprime3.jpg)

Sorry if my english is weird, but Im from Brazil and portuguese is my main language. ;D
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: tmajor on January 11, 2012, 11:27:37 AM
For a showroom type automotive finish your best bet is to check out some car builders forums for more details on the process.

In a nutshell, it's a rather arduous process of Priming > Sanding3 > Painting > Sanding3  > Clear Coating > Sanding3  > Polishing3  > Waxing.

If you like a challenge go for it, but its a tough job as in that type of finish even the smallest flaw will stand out like a sore thumb.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: allesbraun on January 12, 2012, 03:21:08 AM
Hi there!

Thanks for the tips. Doing some research on that thing called Google.

Last night I did some tests at home and ended up with a blue part of Optimus Prime Dual Model Kit looking like this. Its not very far from what I wanted, actually. But if I find any way to get it shinier, Ill try;.

Thanks for the response!

(http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/3782/dualmodel.jpg)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Grail on January 25, 2012, 10:30:35 PM
Try something like a white basecoat, then a really bright silver or chrome, then you can put a thin layer of a metallic color, or just put clear blue over the silver. Or you can also use a pearl coat, or future floor tricks, then put a color over top. Buff each layer for more shine too.
Also Alclads are awesome for this too. http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/browse.php?s=3&t=1&u=1 (http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/browse.php?s=3&t=1&u=1)
As well as some Mr color paints too. Matt T and a few other here have been using ink as well.
That help?
PS. your English is great.
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: allesbraun on January 27, 2012, 05:04:37 AM
Hi there Grail!

Thanks for the reply! It helped a lot actually!

With the information acquired here (and a few more from skynet Google) I did some more test here with local products (but already ordered Alclad for future projects). Im also looking for some substitute for Future, probably going to do some tests on spare parts to avoid total destruction of a good kit. hehe

The picture below shows a piece from Takaras Dual Model Optimus Prime (his shoulders). I used the followinf sequence:

Primer (Mr.Color)
Gloss Black (Chemicolor - Brazilian Brand)
Chrome (Chemicolor - Brazilian Brand)
Clear Red (Tamiya - a few coats)
Clear Gloss (Mr.Color Clear)

(http://allesbraun.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/candy.jpg)

Not perfect, but not that bad, I would say.  :embarrased:
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Sharkdog on January 27, 2012, 07:33:32 AM
Looks pretty good, definitely getting to the desired effect!
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Grail on January 27, 2012, 02:28:16 PM
Quote
Not perfect, but not that bad, I would say.  Oops
That looks awesome.  :yeah: Seems like you are getting the effect you want , yeah?  
I know these kits are loaded with impossible seam lines.  :doh:

Depending on how deep you wanted to go, you can use a base white or Base Black, Silver/Steel/or chrome type layer, Red clear or other color, Pearl Clear, Red clear or other color, Clear,.. and just add more steps if you want to go deeper. Very thin layers though.

Anyhow, your effect looks awesome,  8) great work man!

 
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: allesbraun on February 09, 2012, 04:33:06 AM
Hey guys!

Thanks for all the help! Im almost finished with Prime, there are just a few red parts to paint.

Reading the posts and the tutorial parts of the site/forum Ive learned a lot. I know I have a long way to go if I want to get results at least similar to all the wonders Ive seen here. ;D

Just a quick pick last night with Prime:

(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/1841/quasela.jpg)
Title: Re: Paint Questions
Post by: Paliodor on February 23, 2013, 09:19:15 AM
Hello,
I have a question regarding gold coating on MG Hyaku Shiki. I would like to paint it with Tamiya X-31 Titatnium Gold and would like to know if before painting the kit I should strip the golden coating from the plamo parts with sand paper or can I spray the paint direct on the coated parts?