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Old FFForums Archive => Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) => Assembly/Scratchbuilding => Topic started by: mrmaigo on July 14, 2006, 09:43:46 AM

Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mrmaigo on July 14, 2006, 09:43:46 AM
I've tryed a few things, but I'm sure I haven't found the best way to apply putty. So, how do our PROs do it?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Titan-ex on July 14, 2006, 06:16:54 PM
Don't know if this helps,but this guy uses few types for different things from molding to build-ups.

http://models4you.whoadude.com/models.html
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Major Blah on July 14, 2006, 08:23:53 PM
"this guy" is none other than the legendary Bawoo so scratch-built the Hazel conversion kit and recasted it.  I learn a lot from reading his in-prog pages.

mrmaigo, your question is a bit vague.  What kind of putty are you refering to?  What kind of surface/material are you talking about?  Is it curved? seams?

It's a bit difficult to answer your questions as it is.  :wink:
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mrmaigo on July 15, 2006, 12:15:58 PM
Been using Squadron for filling seams and gaps
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Traks on August 27, 2006, 05:45:49 AM
Has anybody here tried RayCrete (http://www.raycrete.com/unique.htm)? I purchased some at a local True Value while on an errand and have been itching to try it out. I checked their website and it looks like I could really use it for modeling but, it has a "As seen on TV" label on that makes me real skeptical.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Titan-ex on August 28, 2006, 07:09:51 PM
Test it out on a spruce to see how it does.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: fulcy on August 29, 2006, 03:25:57 AM
Quote from: "Titan-ex"
Test it out on a spruce to see how it does.


Why would you test it out on a tree?  ;)  I think you meant to say sprue - the leftover plastic 'frame' from injection molded plastic model kits...
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Titan-ex on August 29, 2006, 06:16:00 AM
Quote from: "fulcy"
Quote from: "Titan-ex"
Test it out on a spruce to see how it does.


Why would you test it out on a tree?  ;)  I think you meant to say sprue - the leftover plastic 'frame' from injection molded plastic model kits...



Bugger,Yeh that's what I meant,it's for things like this it never hurts to have a few for scrap,practice,and testing new things on.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Traks on August 30, 2006, 04:58:47 AM
:) Thanks Titan-Ex and Fulcy, I'll give it a try and report the results.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on September 19, 2006, 12:39:28 PM
So back on the Squadron putty question... I just got a few tubes of the green and a tube of white from Taz. Pros? Cons? Uses? Is this the kit-melting stuff I've head about?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: zerobxu on September 19, 2006, 12:54:25 PM
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
So back on the Squadron putty question... I just got a few tubes of the green and a tube of white from Taz. Pros? Cons? Uses? Is this the kit-melting stuff I've head about?

I've used the white pretty extensively (and exclusively). Never had a problem with melting. It can be a little bit chunky/thick, but it's about the best stuff I can get ahold of through the local HobbyTown stores. I've also seen it crumble when I've gotten a little over-anxious on sanding. Good stuff overall, but probably won't replace a lot of the putty/sculpt you're already familiar with.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mrmaigo on September 19, 2006, 01:11:50 PM
Had a tube of Squadron putty dry out on me, I heard it thins with acetone so I put the rest of the tube in a large Tamiya bottle with some nail polish remover. Being thinned down, its a LOT better than out of the tube. Smooth, easy to apply thin coats with out lots of waste. It sticks to the lid a little which happens to be great for getting it to your tools.

You need to check it every week or else it'll start to dry out and need to be mixed.

If you're gona use Squadron, its what I suggest. Right out of the tube the stuff kinda sucks
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: oteebzo on September 19, 2006, 02:28:58 PM
I just recently (this weekend) purchased a tube of the white . I have not used it yet but I am hoping it is better then the testors putty I was useing.

I was looking for the tamiya (spelling?) putty but all they had was the squadron so I hope I did not make a wrong purchase.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: zerobxu on September 19, 2006, 02:50:39 PM
The white Squadron is definitely better than Testors putty. I'm in the same boat, oteebzo--no local source for Tamiya putty.

If you happen to encounter a situation where it's dried out in the tube, you can usually use an Xacto blade to clear out the opening and then just squeeze the rest of the dried putty (it's usually just right there inside the opening of the tube). Keeping the threads on the cap clean and making sure the cap gets on tight will greatly reduce instances of having it dry in the tube.

(and I'm going to have to try the acetone thing!)
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: fredpekker on September 19, 2006, 02:57:30 PM
Would xylene work in the same way? I can get the Squadron white at the LHS and can get xylene from my job (I sell vinyl windows and siding).  Just trying to think cheap.  :wink:
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on September 19, 2006, 03:04:22 PM
Thanks for the advice guys. This will be a good thread for searching. :wink:

As for Xylene... how toxic is that? Don't we use enough  chemicals to warrant a hazmat clean-up crew?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: fredpekker on September 19, 2006, 03:52:39 PM
Not sure how toxic it is, but it eats through baked enamel on aluminum well enough to take out small scratches.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on September 19, 2006, 05:35:45 PM
Actually, with the green squadron putty (stuff i use since it's much easier to find at my LHS compared to tamiya putty), it definetly melts and warps the thinner styrene sheets IF you apply too much. I came upon this problem when i tried substituting it for white squadron putty, lol. Just a heads up for you guys. Don't do it unless you have absolutely no other alternative. If you do, be ready for alot sanding/cutting/and reshaping of the affected areas.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: OYWM on September 19, 2006, 08:43:02 PM
Here is a wikipedia article on Xylene (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene).

It would seem as though Xylene is just as toxic as any other chemical we use in the modeling world :lol: . I guess a well ventilated area would be the best place to test out how it reacts with Squadron white.

Here is another article on Xylene (http://www.dhs.ca.gov/ohb/HESIS/xylene.htm)
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: G-Sentinel on September 24, 2006, 03:57:17 PM
I have a puttying question, while visiting Japan, I picked up some Tamiys putty. When I first used it, I realized that this was for filling gaps and not for major sculpting. Is there a type of putty that can be recommended for actual customization of kits?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: OYWM on September 24, 2006, 05:18:10 PM
Quote from: "G-Sentinel"
I have a puttying question, while visiting Japan, I picked up some Tamiys putty. When I first used it, I realized that this was for filling gaps and not for major sculpting. Is there a type of putty that can be recommended for actual customization of kits?


There are many choices when it comes to putty. I prefer to use two-part epoxy putties lke Miliput or Magic sculp. There are some other epoxies such as aves and tamiya epoxy. The great thing about an epoxy putty is that you can do most of your sculpting while it's soft but it may take hours to cure and sanding can be pretty tedious.

Your next option would be a polyester putty such as Bondo or Mori Mori (japanese hobby brand). Bondo is everywhere in the US and it is pretty cheap. polyester putties are hard to work with IMO because you basically mix it up and slap it in the intended area then it's hard as a rock in a few minutes. Polyester's do have a few good points though, you can do hours of work/wating in a few minutes and while curing they are easy to cut and shape with a new ex-acto blade.

In the end I prefer epoxy because it isn't nearly as toxic as Polyester and you can actually use your hands while you shape and tool it.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on October 08, 2006, 10:16:07 AM
I have a question regarding the use of Liquid Nails (http://www.liquidnails.com/home.do) as a substitute for epoxy putty. I doubt many people have tried so I'll go ahead and give it a shot and let you guys know how it works (It's becuase I have about 30 some-odd tubes of it lying around in my garage and a few 20 more or so at school.) but just in case someone does have some information, please just go ahead and tell me how it goes.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on October 08, 2006, 11:04:07 AM
Do a test. Liquid nails though... I believe that never completely cures to a hard enough form to sand. That's what my father-in-law (general contractor) tells me.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mtomczek on October 08, 2006, 05:19:05 PM
Anyone know of a place to buy Milliput?? I've been looking for the yellow/grey type and cannot find it anywhere.

Thanks!
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on October 08, 2006, 05:25:55 PM
Lol. I see you live in Oakland. Over here in the bay area there aren't that many shops that i know of that sell epoxy putty (especially milliput) directly fromt he store. You gotta check it online. Try this http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81007
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mtomczek on October 08, 2006, 05:33:16 PM
Quote from: "Shadowfire"
Lol. I see you live in Oakland. Over here in the bay area there aren't that many shops that i know of that sell epoxy putty (especially milliput) directly fromt he store. You gotta check it online. Try this http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=81007


I've found a bunch of places that carry the Tamiya epoxy putty, but it comes in such small quantities that its pretty cost prohibitive for large projects. :(

Thanks for the link.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: fear no evil on October 08, 2006, 05:42:55 PM
Alternatively you can use another brand of epoxy, Aves Apoxie sculpt.  It comes in larger quantities and its better in the long run than buying packs of tamiya or milliput as it's cheaper.
Starship modeler store (http://www.starshipmodeler.com/cfstore/index.cfm?currentpage=2&fuseaction=category.display&category_id=133)

I highly recommend the store.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Shadowfire on October 08, 2006, 05:50:53 PM
Quote from: "mtomczek"

I've found a bunch of places that carry the Tamiya epoxy putty, but it comes in such small quantities that its pretty cost prohibitive for large projects. :(

Thanks for the link.


No problem, man. I understand where you're coming from with the price tag which is why i wanna see if the liquid nails idea would work. I believe it's about 5-6 dollars a tube.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Zoccoli on October 08, 2006, 08:29:43 PM
Quote from: "mtomczek"
Anyone know of a place to buy Milliput?? I've been looking for the yellow/grey type and cannot find it anywhere.

Thanks!

I just bought some from this site (http://www.hobbyworks.com/default.cfm/Content/fullproduct/hs/Home/ID/406802), which I believe has been recommended on these forums previously. It hasn't shipped yet, so I can't give a review of their shipping/customer service. No problems yet, though.

Yeah, it sucks having so few options for hobby stores here in the East Bay. The only one under an hour's drive from me is Wold's Hobbies in Dublin, and he doesn't always carry what I need. He does have the full line of Tamiya paints, though, which is really nice.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: oteebzo on October 20, 2006, 10:31:17 AM
So the other day I decided to try out the new tube of squadron putty. This stuff is really thick and starts to crmble and dry out fast. It made it hard to work with.  

So I tried a drop of 91% alcohol which diluted it well enough that I could brush the putty on. I will find out how each set of pieces sand tonight if I get time.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: oteebzo on October 28, 2006, 08:13:57 PM
Ok guys so I have been really inspired by the kampfer comp that i have been work on somthing.

My question is , I have been seeing you guys talk about this magic sculpt an i was wondering if it was good to fill gaps in armor?

I have been using the tamaya 2 part putty and I am almost out so i need something new. What do you guys think should I buy or try something else? Foo I know you use this so how does it hold up? shrink? sculpt easy?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Vinny on October 28, 2006, 09:15:11 PM
I bought a tube of Squadron putty today.  The green variety, since the man at the hobby store said there was difference between it and white, and green would be easier to see on a model.
I mixed it with alchol in the ratio of about two thrids putty, one third 91% alcohol.  It's freaking magical how this stuff works.  I brush it on (bought a $.50 paint brush at Michaels) and it dries practically instantly.  And since it's mixed witht he alcohol, it flows through the gaps, but still fills them to make the pieces level.  Also, fills in holes I may have after cutting the sprue off.  I highly suggest trying the stuff!
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: tehmarken on November 10, 2006, 04:05:06 PM
So it turned out my local hobby shop has a good supply of Tamiya products, including putty. I tried going to Bawoo's site, but I can't get his tips section to work =/

Anyways, there any special instructions for using tamiya putty,like thinning it or anything?

Also, how long should ti dry before sanding? The box  didn't have anything I could understand other than toxicity warnings =/
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Oliphont on November 30, 2006, 11:31:23 AM
I had more of a technique question regarding putties like Tamiya Basic.

1. Do you guys (generally speaking), take for example two leg pieces, glue them together...allow to dry...THEN see if putty is needed?, or do you always apply the putty regardless...allow to dry...then sand?

2. Do you apply the putty progressively in thin layers (i.e. layer, sand, layer, sand, layer) but in very very thin layers? Or do you just apply whatever amount and allow to dry and then sand?

If you can link a good tutorial, thatd be great. I tried the Bawoo one, but i couldn't get it to work :(

thanks,
Ollie
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: zerobxu on November 30, 2006, 11:54:21 AM
I think there's going to be some variety to the answers here, but this is just how I'd answer it.
Quote from: "Oliphont"
1. Do you guys (generally speaking), take for example two leg pieces, glue them together...allow to dry...THEN see if putty is needed?, or do you always apply the putty regardless...allow to dry...then sand?

Regardless of whether I think it needs it or not, a seam usually ends up looking like it should have had it if you paint a seam un-puttied. Of course, this is also a result of the type of glue I use. Some other adhesives (Tamiya?) actually melt the plastic together and allow you to sand off the "ridge" where the two pieces fused. So the short answer for me is that I putty every visible seam--because it needs it. Other answers may vary.

Quote from: "Oliphont"
2. Do you apply the putty progressively in thin layers (i.e. layer, sand, layer, sand, layer) but in very very thin layers? Or do you just apply whatever amount and allow to dry and then sand?

As thinly as possible, while still ultimately hiding the seam. And sometimes it's too thin and you'll need to add more putty.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: gamerabaenre on November 30, 2006, 12:17:33 PM
I've used tamiya extra thin cement to "weld" the two plastic pieces together.  One that cures, I sand and the look to see if there were any bubbles or tiny missed areas.  There usually are.  So I apply a layer of Mr Surfacer 500 (putty of my choice) over the seam area and let that cure over night.  Sand it and I can usually see where the putty fills in the areas.  Prime it and the seam is gone.  As for a tutorial.  Grab this one and see if it helps any:
My Model building tutorial in MS Power Point (http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/hashtorrent/3531874.torrent/Gunpla_Resin_Figure_Building_Tutorial.3531874.TPB.torrent)
I have pictures of this process here.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Oliphont on November 30, 2006, 12:22:56 PM
Ok, because here is what i have been doing, and i just wanted an 'ok' from the pros :D

Ive been using basic Testors cement for 'most' large pieces with seams to get them as close together as possible. After that dries, i get rid of all the gunk left over. I have an old credit card that i use to apply the Tamiya Basic Putty or i use my finger. Its been really hard to handle the putty so far with just that, what usually happens is i apply it unevenly and sanding becomes a long ordeal. Curves and uneven surfaces have given me the worst issues (see the inner shoulders of the Neue Ziel in the finished gallery).

That ok?

PS. Sorry for all the nub questions, just wanna learn more and more :D
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: braxat2000 on November 30, 2006, 11:41:49 PM
Hi Oliphant,

I got a tip from a friend at the club, and started using an artists metal spatula for applying the putty.

Its very easy to use, and has the extra value of appyling the putty to plain surfaces. As the spatula is metal, you can clean it using liquid cement or thinner. And its cheap too, you can get it from any art store.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: thor777 on December 18, 2006, 09:08:51 AM
You can get Magic Sculpt from http://kitkraft.biz.  I will buy some in the near future and will post my results/opinions.
Title: Magic Sculpt
Post by: Maxamor on December 27, 2006, 04:42:10 PM
You can also get Magic Sculpt (http://www.magicsculp.com/) from your local Tap Plastics plastic store. The Tap Plastics where I live has it, which I find sort of odd.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: GlauG on January 16, 2007, 07:02:28 AM
Right, having read this topic I persuaded a friend in the US to bring some Aves Apoxie and Magic Sculpt over for me, but I'm not massively blown away by the Apoxie as of yet.  Having read around a little online, it's apparrantly a lot firmer and easier to work with if it's left for about 20 mins to half an hour after mixing.  However, having become very used to Tamiya putty, I'm having a hard time working with it as it's not very sticky.  Does the tackiness increase if you leave it to set a bit before trying to work with it? It certainly sticks well while curing/once cured, as I've used it a little on Infinite Justice and it's performed admirably, but is there a way of getting it to be more sticky while working with it?  I've mixed various epoxy putties in the past, maybe I'll try mixing it with Tamiya and seeing how that goes...

Also, is Magic Sculpt at all different in this regard, ie: is it more/less sticky?  It's a bit more expensive, so I have less of it and I'm not too keen to waste too much playing around to get to know it.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 16, 2007, 07:17:10 AM
Are you using it as a seam filler or as a sculpting putty? For sculpting it's fantastic. It's not going to "stick" to plastic well though if you're just building up bulk on a smooth part... how I get around that is to either put down CA first (messy) or later after popping the cured aves part off and before any clean-up.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: GlauG on January 16, 2007, 11:17:35 AM
I've been using it for a bit of both, but I was using it for bulking out some plasticard parts and it just wouldn't stay.  I'll try letting it dry a little and burring up the plastic some, and see if that helps.  It does smooth a LOT nicer than any other putty I've used, it must be said.  Cheers for the advice!
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on January 16, 2007, 11:23:55 AM
Burring won't do much I'm afraid to keep it permenantly attached. You'll wanna pop it off after and CA it down into place for the best hold. It is great stuff though. Try using it in conjunction with Superglue + Talcum Powder (SGT).
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Redcomet on February 07, 2007, 11:41:18 AM
I'm new to the scratch build seen and i am looking for a building material. I seen everyone use it like it is Sculpting clay to cover large gaps that putty cant cover. I don't Know if it is a different type of putty that they are using or a quick dry clay.
Title: its name is Bondo
Post by: riccardo on February 11, 2007, 10:57:48 AM
Hi,
recetnly we dicussed the use of Bondo glazing and spots putty. Looking at the pictures of the last Fichten's work i think he used as well.  Bondo it's an automotive putty it comes with the viscotsity of  a cream, it can be sanded and painted easily. Its color is red  brown so you can't really avoid to notice it. This is a big big plus for it.
After realizing that basically it makes the same job as the tamiya basic putty and 125g costs 3.5$ it became my favorite putty.
Here is how it appears and the consistency of the raw product:
(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3756/bondo1gx4.th.jpg) (http://img443.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bondo1gx4.jpg)(http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/4103/bondo1ni7.th.jpg) (http://img78.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bondo1ni7.jpg)
but you can thin it with Mr Color thinner or the leveling thinner. Bondomelts the plastic a little bit as the tamiya putty. you can thin it as much as you want, depends on the use you are going to do. usually I use this ratio in volume (well approximatvely) 3Thinner:2Bondo. If I have to fill very small pin-holes it can be higher (more thinner).
here is the crea how it looks after thinning 3T:2B
(http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/4572/bondo2jpgdt3.th.jpg) (http://img78.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bondo2jpgdt3.jpg)
with this I filled some holes in the Fatima from FSS  i'm working on. Bondo srhinks and since the solution is 3 parts of thinner you can expect about 60% volume loss, so put it in excess:
(http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/2487/fatima3gk0.th.jpg) (http://img78.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fatima3gk0.jpg)
after sanding the pinholes and some other casting problems (the ifgure is a recast) are almost ok. As you can see you can see where the putty has gone:
(http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8028/fatima4bg7.th.jpg) (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fatima4bg7.jpg)

it works well as a gap filler but also for larger works. In this case I let it cure for one week, then if needed i fill a little more. For minor works 1 to 6 hours is fine, depending on how much you thinned it and how thick is the layer of putty.
Hope that my experience is useful. You may find Bondo in automotive stores or in automotive departments in major chains (I don't want to name the one I'm referring to since I have a very little simpathy for the company).

ciao
ric
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Major Blah on February 11, 2007, 11:18:22 AM
I've used Bondo glazing putty before too, it's really smooth and easy to apply, I recommend many thin layers instead of a thick layer, as it can strink a lot and might not cure as well.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Marc on February 11, 2007, 03:48:54 PM
Would you also recommend it for plastic kits and plastic sheets or is the melting too harsh?
MB, what d'you mean by "strink"?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: Major Blah on February 11, 2007, 03:55:15 PM
I used it on plastic, it's not too agressive.  Definitely worth a try.

What I mean by "shrink" is that if you put a big blob of said putty in a seam/hole and roughly shaped it to the contour when it's wet, it would depress/shrink when it's dried off.  At least that was my experience.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: riccardo on February 11, 2007, 04:12:44 PM
yes it shrinks a lot! About aggressivity with thin layers and mr color thinner i had no problem
Try it and you will never go back.

ric
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: HKR on February 27, 2007, 12:04:29 AM
So I have a quick question about Tamiya basic putty.  I've been using it to fill gaps and holes, and I'm almost done sanding all the parts down and getting them ready for priming.  I'd like to give the parts a quick bath and scrub them with a tooth brush before I prime them though.  Will the puttied parts be okay in warm soapy water, or should I clean them differently?
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: mrmaigo on February 27, 2007, 08:34:37 AM
riccardo,
I've been using Bondo's "Professional Glazing & Spot Putty" for my K, I'm guessing the a difference between that and just Glazing & Spot Putty is you have to add the hardener too 'Professional'. The 'Professional' is fine for what I'm doing but you have to mix it before doing spots because it won't just harden on its own (I tried, I did NOT work). Up till now I didn't know they had a ready to use tube.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on February 27, 2007, 09:14:47 AM
Quote from: "HKR"
So I have a quick question about Tamiya basic putty.  I've been using it to fill gaps and holes, and I'm almost done sanding all the parts down and getting them ready for priming.  I'd like to give the parts a quick bath and scrub them with a tooth brush before I prime them though.  Will the puttied parts be okay in warm soapy water, or should I clean them differently?


Not sure... you'll just have to test it out. It's better to clean the parts before doing work though.
Title: Putty Questions
Post by: HKR on February 27, 2007, 09:27:25 AM
Quote from: "FichtenFoo"
Quote from: "HKR"
So I have a quick question about Tamiya basic putty.  I've been using it to fill gaps and holes, and I'm almost done sanding all the parts down and getting them ready for priming.  I'd like to give the parts a quick bath and scrub them with a tooth brush before I prime them though.  Will the puttied parts be okay in warm soapy water, or should I clean them differently?


Not sure... you'll just have to test it out. It's better to clean the parts before doing work though.


The parts were cleaned beforehand, I'm just anal about making sure any sort of dust or particle is gone from the surface before priming.

Looks like I'll try it with a sprue and find out myself.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Haseo on March 13, 2007, 05:55:51 PM
i got some Tamiys putty but i dont really no how to use it to fill seams can some one be kind enough to make a guild or just tell me how to use it -thanks  and yes i have read the whole thread and i still dont get it.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on March 13, 2007, 06:06:08 PM
If there is a visible seam after gluing and sanding then apply the Tamiya putty with a q-tip, old razor, or some other implement. Make sure it gets into the gap and don't apply it too thick. Let cure then sand flush.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Haseo on March 13, 2007, 08:45:31 PM
thanks ff
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: amessier on March 14, 2007, 11:28:14 AM
Does the color of putty matter once its primed?(green,white,red,ect..)
Isn't that going to be covered up?

 
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: oteebzo on March 14, 2007, 12:06:49 PM
It does not matter because all of it will be gray or white once you prime.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: machinedragon on April 10, 2007, 09:53:51 AM
i hate digging up old topics , but has anyone used mr.hobby white putty ? , i just got some thanks to local hobby clearance sales , considering other puttys , but basiclly are most putties equal ? or are there some that are stellar ?

im a noob when it comes to scratchbuilding gunpla , but a full sized atx computer case :) and i know bondo grey in thin coats then a last of glazing putty red, then green finishing putty (like bondo but slightly different )

i mean for  puttying seams , is it as simple as glue inspect and add a little putty in the crack , or is it more like a sandwich , put a little putty on both sides of seam , and CA glue on the nubs , and wait to cure

and i know im a inquisitive person so ill cut any more questions to this one
i know bondo , ( and assuming other 2 parts ) can be rushed by adding more hardener , but how long are the cure times on the different putties , ( there are soo manny)  i just want one i can work on a part , and get it done :)
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: ttmnky on April 16, 2007, 10:14:12 PM
I'm sorry for butting in, but what would be the best for sculpting? So Far, I've got the impression that squadron green and tamiya thinned is good for filling in seems

But which putty is best for sculpting or aggressively reshaping, like what Peck did with the Ghost Quebely?

link: http://members12.tsukaeru.net/peck/html2/1/quberey_a.htm
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: mrmaigo on April 17, 2007, 04:00:32 AM
Believe he used magic sculpt
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FilmMkr on April 17, 2007, 03:25:56 PM
Quote
I'm sorry for butting in, but what would be the best for sculpting?

IMO, that would be Aves Apoxie Sculpt (http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html).

Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: spiffitz on May 05, 2007, 08:41:59 AM
Finally while cruising through the local hardware store I remembered to pick up a tube of epoxy in the plumbing section. It comes in a tube with the two parts already stuck together so all you need to do is cut off what you need and start mixing.

For the impatient type such as myself this stuff is amazing. It'll start to heat up after a few minutes as the chemical reaction occurs. In about 5 to 7 minutes you have a piece about as hard and dense as a rock of the same size. Once hardened it is very easy to file/dremel to shape and also takes sandpaper quite well. As suggested by the instructions I wear gloves, and while kneading it I wet my fingertips to keep the putty from sticking to me. The water also helps add pliability and seems to prolong the hardening action by a few minutes. I'll eventually experiment in thinning it with various solvents.

So basically it's like Milliput, except it's under $5 and 5 minutes.

Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on May 15, 2007, 01:40:26 PM
So here's a Bondo question for those of you in the know. My first can of Bondo was the "premium" filler with the blue hardener. My newer can is the regular with the red hardener. (I like this cheaper one better) I'm almost out of the red hardener, and while I believe they sell it seperately, will the blue hardener cream work with the normal Bondo?
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: fulcy on May 15, 2007, 03:46:59 PM
Uh, try it?
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Mikko on May 21, 2007, 10:43:39 PM
My EUR0.02 on this subject.

I have been sculpting figures and hence been playing with putty as long as I can remember...
I think I have used pretty much all readily available brands excluding MoriMori and Bondo.

Only recently I decided to give it a try with Apoxie Sculpt. Ordered few pounds of it.
First impression..."Oh...looks and smells like Magic Sculpt!! Dang!"
Now I'm hooked!! This stuff is FANTASTIC to work with!!
Does everything better than Milliput and Magic Sculpt which were previously my prefered brands.

My current arsenal:
1) LOTS of Apoxie Sculpt (This stuff is also fairly cheap when bought in larger amounts)
2) Green Stuff for certain specific applications (a total b?&ch to sand...so works only on more "organic" sculpts)
3) White Squadron for gap filling
4) Mr. Surfacers for minor flaws and priming

Stuff I have used in the past:
-Milliput (All grades. Sands well, but is difficult to mix to perfection and is VERY messy in my opinion. Sands OK. Poor shelf life)
-Magic Sculpt (Fairly good stuff. A tad too waxy when set and does not sand as well as Apoxie)
-Sylmasta A+B (Sets rock hard, but is very soft in the begining. Apoxie does everything better.)
-Tamiya Epoxy Putty (Like crappy green stuff in my opinion)
-Tamiya Polyester putty (Ok, but expensive here. Using Squadron instead)

I have used lots of other fillers too but none are worth mentioning. Poor adhesion, crumbly structure when set and the fact that they dry in a flash once the tube has been opened being the common problems.

Cheers,
M




 

Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Mrex-sgundam on May 29, 2007, 12:01:01 PM
After stripping my OYW with Castrols I wasnt sure if I did it right. I left it in the tube for a whole 24 hours plus. And when I took the plastic out and scrub off the paint it still had leftover paint stuck in the panel lines. Now I want to get rid of the panel lines by putting over them  do I need to remove the all the paint inside the panel line or will the putty be fine over the paint?
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Retributions777 on June 25, 2007, 07:50:18 PM
Hello all, I just got done using some Tamiya Epoxy Putty and I really wasn't quite thrilled with the results. At the moment I'm looking to testing some either Bondo or Squadron, hell, even both. Does anyone know of a place in the Metro Detroit area where I can get a hold of this (I live in Dearborn Heights on the border of Dearborn for reference)? Or am I going to have to order from the net (a link would be helpful though)? I'm not sure if my local hobby store carries any or not. I do know that Rider's Hobby carries some crappy Testors putty but I am not sure if they ever carry anything other than Testors products. I really hope I can find some so I can learn more about puttying and start using it more in scratchbuilding.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: fulcy on June 26, 2007, 01:42:04 AM
Bondo is found at your local automotive store - I prefer the premium version, but others have had good results with the regular bondo also...
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Marc on June 26, 2007, 02:07:10 AM
Walmart also carries Bondo's Glazing & Spot Putty. Works just fine.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Retributions777 on June 26, 2007, 08:11:14 AM
Thanks, it's good to know because there is a walmart only like 2 miles from where i live. I'll probably order some squadron over time.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Alpha 54 on July 03, 2007, 07:47:50 AM
I gouged the edge of my MG Nu Gundam head where the two head pieces come together and I plan on removing the seam now should I putty it first then glue it  or glue it first then putty?
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: tetsujin on July 03, 2007, 11:53:59 AM
I gouged the edge of my MG Nu Gundam head where the two head pieces come together and I plan on removing the seam now should I putty it first then glue it  or glue it first then putty?

Glue first.  You want the bond between the two parts to be really solid before you lay down putty.  Otherwise, there's potential for the two parts to shift with respect to each other, resulting in the appearance of a crack, particularly when you're sanding the putty down after application.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Toxikon on July 18, 2007, 03:56:49 PM
First post! I'm re-entering the gunpla world after having stopped for many years, and.....

I have a quick question about thinning Tamiya Putty, namely, how do you do it?

I searched the topic but didn't manage to find what I was looking for. If the topic has been addressed links would be greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Identity_Chrisis on July 18, 2007, 06:47:32 PM
First post! I'm re-entering the gunpla world after having stopped for many years, and.....

I have a quick question about thinning Tamiya Putty, namely, how do you do it?

I searched the topic but didn't manage to find what I was looking for. If the topic has been addressed links would be greatly appreciated.

you can squeeze out some putty into a bottle or dish, and the stir in some mr. color thinner or tamiya lacquer thinner until it is the thickness you want. the process is the same for squadron and bondo putties. you can make it as thick or thin as you like it. actually, i believe tamiya primer is just extremely thinned putty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGVv0dJP8FQ&mode=related&search=

this guy does it, he thins the putty to make a rough-cast texture. he does this at about 4:18 into the video and it shows the putty, thinner, he stirs it around and dissolves it and then he brushes it on and that's that! you probably don't need to make it that thin just for filling seams, though.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Alpha 54 on July 18, 2007, 06:48:33 PM
I use acetone if you go to to swannymodels.com I think he has an article about it.
Title: Mr dissolved putty VS tamiya basic putty
Post by: psycho_killer on October 19, 2007, 09:06:18 AM

Does any one use me dissolved putty, hob about the result and application compare to tamiya basic putty. I'm having some problem sanding while removing seam lines in some difficult places, can Mr dissolved putty help?
Thanks
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Marc on October 19, 2007, 09:45:12 AM
You can make your own dissolved putty by adding a bit of acetone to it. It's the same stuff, only more liquid. Easy to apply with a brush on small areas, hence economic.
Please check the stickies before posting.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Zircor on December 05, 2007, 05:41:56 PM
OK so my first putty attempt has resulted in Disaster (yes with a capital D).  I was using som Squadron White on a Gundam X 1/144 model (Gundam X Divide or somesuch).  The putty quite literally ATE THROUGH and MELTED the plastic, to the point where it was so soft it collapsed when I touched it.  I'm glad I had the wisdom to try new product/technique on a model that I don't really care about.  So glad I didn't just jump right in with an expensive kit like my Strike Freedom Full Burst.

I bought some Milliput from the hobby store the other day, so hopefully will get better results with it.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on January 30, 2008, 06:29:57 PM
Retributions777
I used to live in Waterford... just go to Meijer, thats where I got my bondo. Also, for anyone who cares..

If you leave the bondo out for a long time, like two to three days, it gets very thick and it is really easy to shape, and just putting a little of the catalyst on the tips of your fingers and work it in to the putty it will work nicely. I had an old gyan I was modifying and it worked. My only problem -that I remember- with bondo is that it's kinda rough to saw and cut. However, it seems to be the most easily available putty.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: fulcy on January 31, 2008, 02:34:00 AM
Retributions777
I used to live in Waterford... just go to Meijer, thats where I got my bondo. Also, for anyone who cares..

If you leave the bondo out for a long time, like two to three days, it gets very thick and it is really easy to shape, and just putting a little of the catalyst on the tips of your fingers and work it in to the putty it will work nicely. I had an old gyan I was modifying and it worked. My only problem -that I remember- with bondo is that it's kinda rough to saw and cut. However, it seems to be the most easily available putty.

I hope you were wearing gloves when you put a little of that catalyst on your finger tips and worked it into the putty...
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on January 31, 2008, 12:09:39 PM
Of corse! My mother is a nurse so I used to get free boxes of latex gloves.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: fredpekker on March 19, 2008, 05:08:05 PM
Has anyone tried Bondo's Metal Plastic (901)? On their web site, its filed under adhesives/epoxies. Seems pretty similar to the Glazing Spot Putty except its a little harder to sand (which may not be a bad thing) and doesn't seem to shrink like the red stuff. Its in a black and gray tube and was hanging on the shelf next to the Glazing putty. Same price. Little bit bigger tube. So give it a try BONDO guys!

EDIT: After about 10 hrs. I'm noticing that this stuff is rock hard when it dries. Large globs will eat at styrene. And I forgot to mention this before, but its the same price as the Red Stuff.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on April 09, 2008, 10:18:30 AM
Got a question about miliput... is it safe to handle with bare hands? I read the packaging and it says it may irritate, and that was about it.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 09, 2008, 10:28:12 AM
Milliput is very irritating IMO... but not for my hands. Never had a problem there. I find it irritatingly painful to work with. It's lumpy, hard to mix, doesn't blend well, etc.. etc... you're better off with Aves Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on April 09, 2008, 10:32:20 AM
Well, it's what I have for right now.. So I might as well use it.  :razz: But it is safe to mold and mix with bare hands?

I would hate to have wasted 12 bucks.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: clee-cm on April 09, 2008, 01:23:56 PM
I have used Millliput for a very longtime but I swear by it, yes it is a pain to work with in that it is hard to mix, and hard to blend, but once it sets it is very easy to sand. With Milliput, you need to take your time and work with small amounts at a time, us a knife and cut a small amount from each stick and mix it well. You will need to use your hands to roll it out, kneed and mix it together very well with your fingers. the more you mix the putty together, the softer it becomes, if you do it right, the putty will set in 3 hours.

Milliput is safe to use with your hands, but you will need to wash your hands after each use, the putty will start to set on your fingers.

I have used Microtool (this was repackaged red auto-body putty)and Squadron White putty, both are ok for filling in seams, if you want to go really cheep, plumbers A+B putty from the hardware store will work to, but Milliput is better.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on April 09, 2008, 01:26:43 PM
Thanks, that answered my question and then some. Sounds like miliput is more good for making parts, and for extending parts. (Which is why I got it) Thanks for the tips.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 09, 2008, 02:20:13 PM
Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: AnatoleFarmond on April 10, 2008, 09:06:52 PM
It looks just like miliput. XD
But... it comes in cool bottles! That may be worth buying a try, those look useful.

Also...
I used my miliput today, it's not very good for filling small details, think I may stick to other methods for that. I tried it out in various areas... so far, extending is looking like it's best use. And Foo, I can totally see why you hate this stuff, it takes forever to clean off your hands, it isn't very controllable, and it's just plain-old messy.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on April 11, 2008, 03:44:45 AM
Yup... now get some of the others I mentioned and you'll never look back. :lol:
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: GlauG on May 03, 2008, 09:00:16 PM
Going back to thinning Tamiya 2-part polyester putty, how does it usually affect the drying time?  I thinned some with lacuer thinner to fill in some gaps, and it's been slightly rubbery for about 3 hours...  It usually dries in half an hour or so.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Amalga on May 06, 2008, 02:14:24 PM
Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/

It is. I have some of it and I'm using it on an Exia. It's convenient, but hardly anyone needs as many as six sticks which is what the TV spot offers (for $19.99). It's nothing above what you'd find at Ace Hardware for three bucks.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: GlauG on May 06, 2008, 03:01:06 PM
Just to answer my own question for anyone else it might help, I left the thinned Tamiya poly putty alone for about 48 hours and it finally set properly.  It probably set faster than that, but I decided not to take any chances...
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: robofreak on May 08, 2008, 11:53:44 AM
Has anyone seen the commercials for Willie Mays and his Mighty Putty? Looks like your regular 2-part epoxy putty to me.

https://www.mightyputty.com/

I just got some today! I'm going to test it out and I'll tell you how it works.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: robofreak on May 08, 2008, 06:16:21 PM
Mighty putty is interesting. I've never used an epoxy putty for anything, but found it to be useful. You only get 10 minutes to do whatever you need to do once it's mixed all the way. It does'nt smell as bad as I thought it would and the smell is like a stale fart. I don't recommend it for sculpting. I'm still new to the world of sculpting so using this was not a good idea. I somehow managed to pull off a figure of Lilith from Evangelion, but it does'nt look the way I had hoped it would. Practice makes perfect I guess.

After using it I now want to go get some Aves apoxy sculpt. I've heard it's the best!
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Shin Matsunaga on May 11, 2009, 11:43:55 PM
If you were to choose between Milliput and Mori Mori putties for sculpting purposes, which would you use?  I want to do some reshaping of a Gundam helmet but, as a newbie, don't want to get in over my head (pun intended).  I hear good things about both.  The Milliput seems the easiest to measure and mix.

What does everyone think?

Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on May 12, 2009, 05:47:12 AM
I avoid milliput like the plague. I have some and hate it. I'd go with Aves Apoxie Sculpt, Magic Sculpt or good old Bondo.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Marc on May 12, 2009, 05:52:33 AM
I second that. Mori Mori should be more expensive and harder to find that Magic Sculpt.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Shin Matsunaga on May 12, 2009, 04:06:13 PM
I second that. Mori Mori should be more expensive and harder to find that Magic Sculpt.

Not for me.  I can get almost anything. I was just wondering which is better.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: CidHighwind on June 02, 2009, 06:08:57 PM
Hi!  I'm new, as I'm just starting to build Gundam models, but Ive been making and painting Warhammer 40K miniatures and leads as well for some time now.  But I'm at a loss, because most of my supplies arent suitable for this type of model (or the kind of quality I want).  And I have no hobby stores for a hundred miles from where I live, so no help there.  Since most of the stuff you guys recommend is of the Gunze, Tamiya and Mr. Hobby variety, I have trouble getting this asian product in the U.S. without resorting to overseas shipping (not good for $20 of supplies that I want soon).


So, my problem is I would like a good quality, easy to use seam and crack filler.  FF recommends Tamiya Basic Grey, but I'm having trouble finding it for a decent price Item+Shipping.  What else works well?  Tamiya White?  Mr. Surfacer?  Hopefuilly something that has minimal plastic meltage and shrink.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on June 02, 2009, 06:51:25 PM
Well, do you just need a basic putty? I've also been using the Bondo spot and glazing putty. It's red and you get a lot. Check Walmart!
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: CidHighwind on June 02, 2009, 07:07:42 PM
Whatever works well for basic crack and seam filling.  Im not a sculptor; thats something I havent practiced enough.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: chaos_theory on June 02, 2009, 07:25:38 PM
You build 40K then you should have some green stuff lying around. It can be a little soft when cured but so can Tamiya smooth type. If you can find the brown stuff for metal minis, use it. It works great.

There are online hobby store in the US that sell the import stuff. There's a whole thread for 'em. (http://fichtenfoo.net/forum/index.php?topic=1419.0)


Michael, I should post up the Putty Article in here, putty is hot lately. I'll get to finishing it this week.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: CidHighwind on June 02, 2009, 08:04:05 PM
You know, I DO have some of that stuff around, but I find it very hard to work with.  Perhaps I got a bad batch, but it pretty much has no stick to plastic, exactly where you want it to go!  That and it seems impossible to push down into a gap.  I was hoping for something of the "smear it on, forget about it" variety.

Thanks for the help so far!
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: FichtenFoo on June 03, 2009, 04:27:42 AM
Try the tube of bondo then.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: CidHighwind on June 03, 2009, 09:08:27 AM
Thank you!
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: network24 on July 08, 2009, 06:55:58 PM
After using cement on a seam and sanding can I just use Mr. Surfacer 500 or do i need to use Tamiya Basic Putty first? I noticed that "gamerabaenre" just used Mr. Surfacer but no one really said if it was a good idea or not. Also can I just use any cheap tamiya brush to apply Mr. Surfacer 500?

PS: FF I know you told me to post my questions in one thread but I really needed an answer to this question. I've been reading for hours and I haven't found the answer. Please do not ban me for this.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Marc on July 09, 2009, 06:52:33 AM
Depends if you still have a gap or if the glue has correctly filled the gap between the parts. What brand of glue are you using?

You plan to use Mr. Surfacer as a putty, right? Not as a primer? Because if you're planning to prime by applying Mr. surfacer 500 (which is not the smoothest primer btw) with a brush, be ready for a pretty coarse result.
But then again, if you wanna use it as a putty, be aware that Mr.Surfacer is just diluted putty (making it easier to apply in some cases). And yeah, any cheap (not Tamiya, that stuff's expensive!) brush will do. Since it'll pretty much be ruined eventually.
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: network24 on July 09, 2009, 08:28:29 AM
Depends if you still have a gap or if the glue has correctly filled the gap between the parts. What brand of glue are you using?

You plan to use Mr. Surfacer as a putty, right? Not as a primer? Because if you're planning to prime by applying Mr. surfacer 500 (which is not the smoothest primer btw) with a brush, be ready for a pretty coarse result.
But then again, if you wanna use it as a putty, be aware that Mr.Surfacer is just diluted putty (making it easier to apply in some cases). And yeah, any cheap (not Tamiya, that stuff's expensive!) brush will do. Since it'll pretty much be ruined eventually.

Yea I plan to just use it as a putty. And I found a cheap Tamiya brush for like a $1. Thanks for the help
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: IcecoldJV on October 02, 2011, 02:29:55 PM
I finally got my hands on some putty... but it's Testors Putty. I haven't opened it to use it just yet, so that's why I'm asking now before later.... I noticed a few threads with people saying that Testors sucks and others saying that it was alright, just not their choice putty... I was wondering if anyone had a good reason why it sucks? Unfortunately, I can't get my hands on any tamiya or other such putty, not even Magic Sculpy or Mighty Putty. This is what I get for being stationed in the middle of nowhere. I'm not a fan of ordering things online, but I may have to just bite the bullet there.

Anyway, not many questions have been asked about Testors putty, so if someone has a good answer for me, that would be excellent! If you didn't get the question from above, it is basically asking what the ups and downs are to Testors putty?
Title: Re: Putty Questions
Post by: Rawr_Bot on November 22, 2011, 07:54:57 PM
I got some mr hobby white putty. I heard you can thin it with 91% alcohol and sorta paint it on to fill seams any truth to this?