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Topics - wreeper007

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1
Capitalism Corner* / WTT - MGs/HGUC/Resin/Markers for HGUC/MG
« on: May 09, 2014, 12:59:50 PM »
Photos available upon request.

Have:

MG
FA Unicorn KA - snapped, complete with all accessories, instructions and decals
Delta Plus - Snapped, few parts still on sprue (I'm guessing duplicates), Decals and instructions. 1 broken part (just needs a bit of glue) and 1 missing part (D12+13, Personally I think it looks better without it).
Acguy - Snapped, complete (including stand and figures) except for 1 missle. Decals and instructions
Zaku II 2.0 Shin Matsunaga - complete, excess parts still on sprue, instructions and decals
GP01 - Snapped, complete, Instructions/decals
Shin Musha Gundam Sengoku no Jin - Complete, only torso snapped, most sprues still in bags. All accessories, decals, instructions
Kampher - Clipped, snapped, side of head modification (Was adding a sensor suite), One piece of armor is broken but glue will solve that).

HGUC
Palace Athene - Prepared for painting. Instructions, decals, Samuel Decals
Rick Dias - Primed, sanding some parts still, instructions, decals, Samuel Decals

RX-78 - Built, painted then stripped.

Resin
1/144 Dra-c - Original B-Club, Bags were opened to inspect parts only. Includes brass and base, Instructions, box with authenticity sticker.

Markers
Gundam basic set
Zeon basic set

Both are in packaging and I don't believe they have been used one bit. I looked at each one and I see no tip damage.


Want:

HGUC
HI-NU
Gelgoog mass Production
Gelgoog Jager
Gyan
Turn A
Unicorn (Unicorn Mode)
Kshatriya
Banshee Norn
Jestra
RX-79G The Ground War Set
Wing
GP02
Guncannon Mass Production
Kampfer
Sazabi
EZ-8
Gouf Custom
Sinaju
Wing Zero


RG
Zaku II
RX-178


MG
Heavyarms EW
Tallgeese (Bandai)
Tallgeese III (Dragon Momoko)
Deathscyth Hell EW


MISC
1/35 Hovertruck
1/35 Core Fighter
1/35 main Battle Tank
1/700 Albion

Any reasonable offers as well. List here is not set in stone.

2
Model In-Progress / RGM-79C HGUC 1/144
« on: January 07, 2012, 11:53:14 PM »


Decided that I should choose a fairly easy kit for starting back again.

Building has been straight forward, with some head scratching and modification needed to paint correctly.

So far I just have the upper torso, arms, shoulders and head build (or glued) so far. The only cosmetic modifications I will be making are replacing the antenna and power connector (?) on the beam saber with thin wire. I also drilled the head vulcans a little deeper.

I need to figure out what to do with the shoulder thrusters. The molding left small unfilled areas and getting them to look good will be a bit of a problem. I have thought of getting some plastic thrusters to replace them, but no idea what they would be called or where to get them. Suggestions?

Ok, on to the current modifications.

First is what I did to the shoulder armor.



I learned this trick a long time ago. I cut away some of the bottom of the female part to allow me to build the shoulder armor and inner shoulder apart. After they are painted and finished, I just push the inner shoulder up into the shoulder armor and they fit together. A little glue (if needed) is all thats needed to keep things snug.

Next is the elbow modification.



The elbow cover joins the upper and lower arm assemblies. Both assemblies have a "joint" piece that this cover connects together. Problem is, the cover will actually cover parts of the "joint" and would have to be repositioned when painting to make sure the entire area is covered. Also, where it attaches to the lower arm would be impossible to paint easily without painting, masking, assembling the lower arm, puttying, priming and then painting.

What I decided to do is assemble the lower arm with the "joint" in place. I then removed some of the connector from the cover to allow it to be slipped over the "joint" easier. Since the cover will be dark and the seam easy to hide, this will be an easy way to make sure the joint doesn't show bare plastic when adjusted.

Lastly is the ankle armor.



The ankle joint has 2 female receptors for the armor to snap into. Problem is the way they designed the armor there is a seam what will show easily. I decided to just cut down the male parts on the armor to allow it to be slipped in with as little bending as possible.

Luckily, the legs will need almost none of this joint work. The upper leg halves has a pronounced panel line separating them, and the lower leg will just need a scribed panel line on the back calf. After that I can paint the entire joint assembly in one shot without worrying about appearances.

I plan to use the load out on the box cover, just a bazooka and shield.

3
So I have a couple of questions, and searching didn't turn up anything.

1. After watching some youtube videos, it turns out that I need to scribe the panel lines and what not a bit just to ensure that they turn out right, right?

2. I'm using tamiya paints, and I'm aware of the different top coats that can be made with ffa, but I have always had issues with it and the panel lining. I would use Model Masters enamels thinned and when I would try to wipe away the excess, it would eat straight through the top coat and paint. So what will be my best bet for the panel lines? I have, in town, access to hobby lobby (model masters enamels and acryl, ink, oils) and a 40k type shop (so gw washes).

3. while on the subject of panel lines, one thing I never could figure out is how long to wait before wiping away the excess wash. Do I need to wipe it away as soon as possible, do I wait until it's dry and then wipe away the excess? Somewhere in-between?

I think that is about it for now.

4
Painting/Priming / Inside the legs
« on: February 21, 2007, 09:11:15 AM »
So, I'm working on an old 1/100 Sandrock custom and I was trying to figure out what is the best way to handle inside the legs. Since they're hollow, is black the best choice?

What do the other modelers here do for the legs, any special treatment?

5
Model Gallery / First on the board: Tamiya 1/48 M10 Tank Destroyer
« on: January 14, 2007, 10:34:11 PM »
Really great kit and an easy build (albeit I spend as much time building as I did figuring out the best steps to). The detail is amazing and I still am surprised that its only 1/48.

None of the extra gear was included on the kit, that is being saved for the 1/48 sherman currently soaking in soapy water. It needs the gear, with the extra figure set I bought with it.

Any criticism is very welcome. Painted with model masters enamels, metalizers, acrylics (I think....I know the primer was) and some Tamiya acrylics. Pastels were used for the weathering.

On to the pics...










6
Model In-Progress / Tamiya 1/48 m10 tank killer
« on: December 27, 2006, 11:08:31 PM »
Picked this up for my dad to go with his other WWII stuff.

First off, this kit is amazing, parts fit is almost perfect, and there are a ton of parts.

I am very suprised in the amount of detail in this scale, its very nice.

Ok, so on with the pictures...

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/01.jpg

Parts layout

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/02.jpg

Close up of the upper hull.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/03.jpg

Close up of the treads.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/04.jpg

The accessory tree, filled with jerry cans, steel drums and misc gear.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/05.jpg

The main gun assembly.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/06.jpg

The accessory tree cut out. Its not really visible in the picture, but the detail is very high.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/07.jpg

The rear with the mufflers and tow hook.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/08.jpg

One of the many small mods I'm sure I will have to do, drilling holes in the tow holes.

http://www.1000words-photography.com/models/m10/09.jpg

And lastly, the only ill fitting part on the entire kit, and the only one that a little ca glue along the seam won't fix. I put ca glue along it, let it dry, then put a little putty in it and its gone.

Overall, I really like this kit and have a Tiger 1 in the same scale waiting for its turn next.

Tomorrow will be some painted photos (first real airbrush paint job) and hopefully completed wheel assemblies.

7
Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / Model aircraft
« on: December 12, 2006, 08:54:47 PM »
So I have started looking into model aircraft recently, especially after finishing an academy 1/72 p-40e warhawk.

Recently, I have taken out of the box and really inspected my tamiya 1/72 p-47 thunderbolt.

This got me thinking, each kit had pluses and minuses, but these seem to be the norm with the actual manufacturer (the academy kit needed to have the canopy reformed to allow it to be bult open without standing a scale foot above the aircraft, the tamiya having a very well designed cockpit).

What have y'all noticed about certain manufacturers kits?

Just looking at these 2 kits, I see why there is a $10 difference between the prices of similar kits.

8
Tools / One mans trash.....
« on: November 28, 2006, 10:02:34 PM »
Is another's toolbox.

Ok, time to share all the secrets. I wanna know what trash you use in your kits, not only for detail but also for building them.

I haven't had paper towels around for a while, so when I was starting a new model recently, I needed something to wipe the paint off of. I thought about it for a second and then went out to my car to my girlfriend's stash of napkins. who would have thought all those napkins from sonic would actually be useful.

Also, I have to steal them from my cat, but bottle caps from cokes and what not make great putty/paint/glue/small part tins.

Metal tins (altoids) make great holders for small parts if you are like me and keep kits being worked on in drawers.

I don't know where exactly my mom got them from, but there are these plastic trays about the size of a piece of paper and about 2 inches deep. I think she got them  from work (hospital). They work great for holding parts while being worked on or, in my case, painting in areas your significant other/roomate/parental unit doesn't want you to. If you knock over a jar of paint, it stays in the tray.

When I had braces, my dentist gave  me this wax stuff to help with it hurting my cheeks. Well, it also does a decent job of holding small parts or securing parts with holes too big for skewers. And it's free.

And, last but most certainly not least, if not more important atleast as important as the exacto  knife, the toothpick. Glue applicator/touch up brush/parts holder/paint stirrer, the little guy does  it all. I think it gets a 1 on the, well, i forget the actual acronym, but the exacto knife or table top sander scale.

So, whats your trash-to-tool secret??

9
Model In-Progress / Revell 1/48 P-40B Tiger Shark (Flying Tiger's version)
« on: November 21, 2006, 06:05:49 PM »
I picked up this kit for $15 from my local hobby shop. I decided to shelve my Kampher for the moment (not having the right colors is a good reason to).

This is going to be a gift for my dad for christmas (he has a bomber jacket with the flying tiger patch on the back).

So, to start off with, the box art.



It will basically be out of the box.

Here are the part outs, washing and then drying





After working a couple hours, this is the progress.

I am really happy about the way the cockpit turned out. I used marine corp green for the green, and italian dark brown on the seat. I then used a mix of green, yellow and white to lighten and wear the chair, with a little black mixed in for the floorboard. The seat was a mixture of brown, white and a little yellow. I used dry pastels for all of that.







The part that I'm having the most problems with is the dashboard. I can't seem to get the dials to stand out like I want them to. Any suggestions?



I'm not sure how this will be displayed yet. I know it will end up being on the ground. I'm not sure if it will be actual terrain, terrain with some figures (can't seem to find a 1/48 WWII ground crew online), or just on a base with the Flying Tiger patch on it.

For the record, I haven't built an airplane model for many, many years (atleast 12 years) so I'm a little rusty. So far, there is one really big gap that needs to be fixed on the bottom of the fuselage that I have noticed.

I also can't believe the mold lines and flash on this model. Maybe I'm just spoiled with bandai plastic, but wow. I wonder if it is revell molding though, do tamiya and hasegawa have a large amount of flash and mold lines on their kits?

In total, I'm happy with this kit. I think it will turn out alright. It's for my dad, so its not like hes not going to like it anyway.

Anyway, any constructive criticism and advice is greatly appreciated.

I also plan to airbrush the camo scheme (first time airbrushing, pray for me....). It will also be the first time I have used my aztec airbrush (I had a pasche, but I just never could figure it out).

10


After spend the weekend thinking about it, I decided on this scheme. The thrusters and all aren't figured out yet.

Personally, I like the color scheme. Advice is always appreciated though. I really like the simplicity of the color pallet yet the complexity of the design.

I don't intend on moding much except the main antenna (partly because it's different and partly because I broke the antenna).

As far as weapons go, just the shotgun, a bazooka and thats it really. The chain mine doesn't seem elegant to me, extremely impractical as well.

The hands are the worse part to me. The hands are supposed to be curved, and they give you a pair that has the fingers rounded and that looks pretty, but the normal pair that's movable is squared off....wtf? Id love a good pair of rounded ones, know anywhere for those.

As far as actual progress, I have about half the parts that were painted stripped. Hopefully I will have the rest of the parts cleaned tonight so I can start priming them again.[/img]

11
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Looking for a better cement
« on: September 23, 2006, 11:16:52 PM »
Ok, not a better cement per say, but a better bottle. I have been using testors cement most of my life, and the stuff is great. But, in the last few years, the bottle has gone down hill.

I remember when it was available with a metal tube as the applicator tip. It was great and never clogged on me (I think it did once, but it was nothing to unclog it).

Now, its a plastic tip that has something inside it to slow the speed of the glue. I have resorted to using a syringe to apply the glue (works pretty good, just not very elegant).

So, what are some other options and most importantly, where can I buy it?

12
Model Talk / First post, looking for some sandrock custom builds
« on: September 08, 2006, 07:54:38 PM »
First off, Hi.

Long time builder, and I just found the forum. Last time I was part of a model forum was when gundam.com was still around. After it went down, I couldn't find any forums.

Anyway, I finally have time in my college schedule to start building again. Since I'm in college, money is tight, so finishing old models works for now.

Right now, I have a 1/100 sandrock custom on my bench (err...dining table). I have found a few of the standard paint schemes out there, but are there any other ones?

Did hobby japan do a build of the sandrock custom? If so, are there scans anywhere?

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