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Messages - hobbyguy

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1
Many nice kits have come out in the last year and I just can't help it... I have to build! The problem is time. I have little time for myself these days, so I need to find ways to make building easier.

In the past I used Tamiya primer spray cans and the problem was the overspray, it's such a waste... I still have jars of Mr Surfacer that I never got a chance to use (500, 1000 and 1200).

I'd like to sand parts with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper and just stop there. No 1000 grit or higher, just 400-600 while still achieving a smooth primed surface for painting. Airbrushing Mr Surfacer would waste less primer (less overspray).

So, how effective is Mr Surfacer at filling scratches caused by 400-600 grit sandpaper?

Or should I stick to primer spray cans?

2
List has been changed.

I do ship outside the U.S.

3
Capitalism Corner* / FS: 1/144 Spare parts
« on: March 19, 2012, 04:46:38 PM »
I got some spare parts that were given to me by my buddy that gives me free kits.
Parts are left over from kits he never finished, or ruined.

These are all 1/144, except for the EW parts.

Please understand that I only have some parts from all these kits.
So if you are looking for a specific part, I might have it, just ask.

Parts will be $1 to $2. Example rifle that consists of 3 parts is $3.

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PICS

Album to the FIRST Container: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v353/frisco415/144%20spare%20parts/

Album to the SECOND Container: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v353/frisco415/144%20spare%20parts%20pt%202/



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Parts available from the following 1/144 kits:


Zaku II F2

Nu Gundam

Providence Gundam (Just the funnels)

Gundam Rx-78-2 G30th

00 Gundam

0 Raiser

Stargazer Gundam

Strike Noir

Aegis Gundam

Raider Gundam

Infinite Justice Gundam

Gundam Heavyarms Custom

Gundam Exia

Rick Dias

Geara Doga

Strike Gundam

Strike Freedom Gundam

Buster Gundam (mainly guns)

Zaku I Black Trinity (mainly weapons)

GM


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1/100

Gundam Heavyarms Custom (just the gattling guns)

Serpent Custom (Bazooka and beam cannon)


------------------


You can choose to have parts sent in a bubble/cushion envelope or a USPS flat rate box ($5).

*Please note that if you choose the bubble envelope option (to save a few bucks), I will not be responsible if they get damaged during shipping.


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Pics of some stuff:









4
Update.

Most stuff has been sold.

Few items added to the list.

Please read carefully.

5
Google Sketchup has been recommended to me by a lot of people. Do you have any experience using it? Is it just like any other 3D software or does it have limits (like rough shapes and edges)?

6
The packaging isn't shown on the site (in Japanese) but Sujiborido has Aurora Film:

http://sujibori-do.ocnk.net/product-list/54

They have 3 different types, sadly no pics of the film used on a kit (except for the second one).

I'm not sure if this is the kind you are looking for. I've never used these myself.

Their stock goes out fast!

7
Model Help* (Check Stickies and Search First) / 3D software recommendation?
« on: December 29, 2010, 09:31:17 PM »
Any 3D software recommendations for creating 3D models (like ZBrush)?

The reason I ask is because I want to scratch build kits. I was set on 1/144 but I have now chosen to work in 1/100 scale.

I want to create some 3D models then scale to size, print them and use them as guides/templates when building.

I'm hoping to start soon, and work on designs that have never been in 1/100 scale, as well as designs that have never been turned into a kit.

I also want to use some of the 3D designs and have them 3D printed. Then post some pics of the 3D printed parts (as well as those parts sanded).

Help is appreciated.

Thanks!

8
Things have changed.

I was focused on scratch building in 1/144 scale, but I have now chosen to build in 1/100 scale. There is so much detail that's hard to reproduce on something so small. I understand now why it is that people work in larger scale.

I have also been looking into 3D printing, then resin casting the parts. The problem is I can't find a service that 3D prints using ABS plastic. I have found services that print using resin, but the surface isn't good. It would require a lot of sanding which might end up with misshaped parts.

Anyone know of a good 3D printing service that uses ABS plastic?

Oh yeah, does anyone here own a NWSL chopper 1 or 3? Does the blade hold still or does it move around a lot? The reason I ask is because I heard that it makes crooked/slanted cuts.

Thanks to all who shared such great info on this thread.

9
Model Talk / Best 3D printer?
« on: November 25, 2010, 02:15:37 PM »
I have been hearing about 3D printers for a while now, and I have become very interested in them.

What's the best 3D printer out there, that gives you a smooth surface?

That can be sanded and cut?

I heard Dimension has the best one, is that true?

I kind of want to buy one (price is around 20 grand). I'd like to make kits and resin cast them.

10
Capitalism Corner* / Re: hobbyguy's Want List
« on: November 20, 2010, 07:15:28 PM »
List edited.

Looking for that specific resin kit, I'm even willing to take recast.

Also check my 1/144 spare parts for sale thread, there are links to 2 albums full of pics!

11
Sale edited and prices changed.

Trades and negotiations are accepted.

12
Anyone here know any alternatives for Epoxy and Polyester putty when scratch building?

Epoxy putty is pretty hard for me to sand, it takes way too long.

Polyester putty smells way too strong, (I got both Mori Mori and Tamiya). I really don't want to inhale any of it.

Both are tough for me to sand. Anyone got any alternatives? I need something very very easy to sand and carve for Scratch building. I plan to resin cast the parts.

I'm desperate here guys, hell I've even been thinking of making parts out of wood! ('._.)

Help will be extremely appreciated!

13
Capitalism Corner* / Re: hobbyguy's Want List
« on: September 04, 2010, 12:53:02 PM »
Resin kit added to my want list.

14
Capitalism Corner* / Re: hobbyguy's Want List
« on: August 28, 2010, 08:09:32 PM »
My mistake, links are fixed.

2 new items added to the list.

15
Capitalism Corner* / hobbyguy's Want List
« on: August 27, 2010, 10:31:29 PM »
If you have any of these items, I'm willing to trade for items from my sale's list or spare parts list.

Kit for sale list: http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?/topic/32804-selling-all-of-my-1144-kits-magazine-kits-iwata-ab-too/

Spare parts list: http://www.hobbyfanatics.com/index.php?/topic/34120-fs-1144-spare-parts/


I will ONLY accept new or snapped kits. Snapped kits cannot have any work done on them (for example: sanding, cement, paint), and have nothing missing or broken.

This list will be updated a lot, so check often.


Looking to buy or trade for this resin kit:




I'm against recasts, but I really want this resin kit, so I'm willing to make an acception if the recast is good.

16
Capitalism Corner* / Re: FS: Create III Drill Tool
« on: August 10, 2010, 06:43:47 PM »
BUMP + EDIT

I'm also willing to trade this tool for a bunch of snapped 1/144 HG kits, as long as they are snapped with no work done on them, nothing missing or broken.

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Capitalism Corner* / Re: FS: Create III Drill Tool
« on: August 02, 2010, 05:58:19 PM »
Willing to negotiate. So don't be afraid to offer.

18
Concepts / Request: Acguy kit comparisons
« on: July 30, 2010, 05:54:56 PM »
Anyone have the HGUC 1/144 Acguy kit (snapped) and 144 Acguy (the old kit).

I need pics of them together side by side to compare the height and feet.

I hate the look that the feet on the HGUC kit have, they're nothing like the 0079 Acguy. They look more like the 8th MS Team Acguy.

19
Capitalism Corner* / FS: Create III Drill Tool
« on: July 26, 2010, 05:59:21 PM »
For sale is a Create III electric drill tool that I bought from Sujiborido a while ago. I don't use it anymore, so I've decided to sell it. There is wear on this thing, and one of the rubber feet is missing on the bottom.

You have the choice of using the drill on "Hand" or "Foot" mode. Also lets you choose which way the drill spins (forward or reverse).

This baby's max speed is 30,000 RPM (35W).

Retails for: 31,500.
Price on Sujiborido's site: 29,800.

I'm selling it for $150 USD. Shipping is FREE via USPS Priority Mail.

I'm willing to negotiate for this tool so shoot me an offer. I'm also willing to trade this tool for a bunch of snapped 1/144 HG kits, as long as they are snapped with no work done on them, nothing missing or broken.

Along with this tool you get:

Foot pedal
Works as an "ON and OFF" switch in case you need to stop drilling (does not completely turn off the unit, just stops the drill from spinning). Comes in handy when you are close to cutting a finger off. The pedal does NOT control the speed.

Spare Fuse

29 Diamond bits
Originally there were 30 but I lost 1.

As a bonus I will add:

Diamond Disk
For cutting parts and plastic plates. Use extreme caution when using the diamond disk.

Sanding Sponge Tip x2
Both are used but still get the job done. You get 2 sanding sponge tips, 600 grit and 1000 grit. Cannot be used to sand cemented seams/parts, or nubs. These sanding sponge tips conform to the errors on the parts. It saves time though, because after sanding parts with these tips the errors stick out when you inspect them closely, letting you know where to putty or use a rougher grit of sandpaper. A time saver in my opinion, no wasted sanding effort. Sanding tips must be used in a very low speed, so not to ruin detail on parts. Sanding on low speed keeps edges just like they were when you snapped the kit together. The sanding tips aren't for everyone, so I suggest you try these out on some spare parts to see if they are right for you.


SALE IS FINAL
PAYPAL ONLY! NO EXCEPTIONS!
I WILL NOT SHIP OUTSIDE THE U.S.

Any questions please feel free to ask.









20
Painting/Priming / Tamiya Primer Spray Can "spitting"
« on: June 23, 2010, 05:45:21 PM »
Like the title say's, I sprayed with my can of primer and it "spit" on the part I was priming. There are some very visible blobs of primer on the dry surface. Plus, after I sprayed the nozzle was bubbling. Anyone know what's going on? Should I be heating the cans? Cleaning the nozzle?

Normally when I prime parts I leave them with a wet and even coat (glossy), enough that the primer doesn't run on the parts. That's how I have always done it, and have never had to prime twice (only when for checking for errors).

I have tried spraying light coats but that doesn't work too well for me. I have had bad paint jobs after I have sanded the primer with 2000 grit sandpaper.

Should I switch to a new primer? I have heard good things about Krylon and Duplicolor, anyone here use them?

Further questions will be asked on this thread.

Thanks.

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