Author Topic: MSM-03 Gogg 1/100th scale Master Grade  (Read 7807 times)

April 27, 2011, 08:40:48 AM
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The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Hello.  I recently got my hands on a MSM-03 Gogg Principality of Zeon Mass Production Aquatic Type Mobile Suit 1/100th scale Master Grade model kit.
This is my first Master Grade, and I am very excited about it.  I would like to make sure it's as good as I can make it, which is why I come to you, the experienced modelers!
I've read through FitchenFoo's wonderful How To Build Master Grade, and it had some great tips, but I still would like to know what you have to say.

This will be my Work In Progress thread, and I will be updating it as I make progress on this kit.
I started to plan this a while back, and here is the initial sketch and some notes I made while brainstorming:



Flickr page



I have already assembled, sanded, sealed, and primed the Gogg's inner frame (as well as drilled holes to put IC sockets into), as can seen here:


Flickr page

And here are the places where I'm going to put the IC sockets:


Flickr page



(The pictures are also links to my Flickr page, if any of you have one of those.)  Nevermind, that doesn't work.

I am aware that flat black goes OM NOM NOM to all details, so I was wondering if you could suggest what kind of technique / paint to use to bring out the wonderful little details?  I was thinking about a light coat of a ModelMasters metallic paint from my airbrush, but if you have a better idea, please tell me.

Also, I would like to try a paint chipping technique I picked up from The Ghost of Zeon.  What color should I prime the armor?  Would a dark "unpainted metal" look good showing through the top coat?  Or should the "unpainted metal" be lighter than the color on top of it?

Oh, and another question: what glue should I use to fasten Pla plates?  Super glue discolors the area around it, but I've used it to seal all the parts (the white stuff comes off with a little elbow grease).  Is white glue (PVA, I think?) sufficient, or would the plates scrape off?



Thank you for your help, and I'm sorry I'm so wordy!

« Last Edit: May 11, 2011, 06:38:04 AM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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April 28, 2011, 06:24:11 AM
Reply #1

Kane82

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YAY! THE WALKING BEAR!  Team Gogg is GO! (That was my group team on 0081 online...lol, we all used Goggs, it was awesome).

Anywho, on to some help.

First and foremost, I see in your notes you're not planing on using the original colors.  Good.  Gogg's "Brown" scheme makes it look like a bear, which is laughable.  I think I see you have a blue grey note, that would look nice.  Keep in mind though that the Gogg is a bulky machine, so you'll want to maybe add some other swatches of color in there, or the paint chipping technique might work (I'll leave that to others, I don't do weathering effects). 

In terms of the flat black, I'm not sure if you're using that for the internals or what, but I would suggest perhaps a dark grey instead of black.  Refer to Mtomczek's recent GP03 post and you'll see he uses a dark grey and then metallic for the pipes and what have you.  For MG kits, I used to use Tamiya's Metallic Gunmetal for the whole inner frame, but I like Matt's work better. 

As for glue, I usually suggest Tamiya's Thin Cement.  It does a good job with pla-plate, and I haven't had any issues with the "whitening" that super glue can produce. 

I hope some of that helps!
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April 28, 2011, 08:00:14 AM
Reply #2

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Yes, it does, thank you!

I was thinking about some paint-chipped yellow stripes / markings on the shoulders and maybe the legs to break up the vast expanse of grey, as well as some functional-looking handle things.  I may plan those out shortly...
And the yellow I use for the stripes may also end up as the clear monoeye, too.

I guess I'll use your technique for this Master Grade, as I've already primed it black.  Oops. :embarrased:
(And yes, I've been lurking and drooling over that thread, too.  So gorgeous...)

And Thin Cement, you said?  Okay, I'll have to go by my local hobby store and get some of that (along with some putty; I make mistakes).

Thank you very much!
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April 28, 2011, 08:03:19 AM
Reply #3

Kane82

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Yep, I LOVE gray and yellow, they make a great combination and it sounds like that would be just right for the Gogg.

Just make sure to take it easy when applying the cement - a little goes a long way.

Have fun and I'm going to track this topic so I can see your progress!
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April 30, 2011, 06:15:35 PM
Reply #4

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Okay, I've made some progress.  I've started on the armor and am trying to make it a little more ... I dunno... antiquated?  I was inspired by (what I think of as) some old German submarine / U-boats, but I have not actually done sufficient research.   
:embarrased:


I bought some Tamiya Gun Metal color (spraycan) that I'll use for the inner frame; I'll put a light coat on top of the Chaos Black I already have applied.  I couldn't get the inner frame metallic-ized today, though; it was a mite humid, and I didn't want to screw up.


Anyway, I've tried adding some rivets using another technique I saw from here.  Mine are a little oversized, as I've been using a small metal button I've found.  Hopefully that'll fit in better with the whole "Gogg is kind of silly-looking" motif this model has going.
Or not.  Maybe they just look stupid.

Have a look, will you?





Do I need to continue sanding?  Will those scratches show up on the final product?  I have more grits of sandpaper, I just haven't used them to smooth out the patchwork of scratches one those parts.

You can see where I've had to use putty to fill in holes I've made; I'm too dumb to drill holes correctly the first time.


The PLA plates: are those ... too squared?  I'm still figuring out how to cut/place those, and I'm not sure I'm precise enough.  Are there any recommended tutorials on the subject?  I'm flipping through my Goggle results now.


Oh, and the first coat for the armor: I think I like the look of a dark undercoat more.  I've only ever worked with acrylics on top of a white primer before; will painting over a dark surface (say, dark grey) with a lighter color (say, light grey) be a problem?
And I can't decide whether to use the hairspray or salt method of paint chipping.  Thoughts?
« Last Edit: April 30, 2011, 06:32:54 PM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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May 04, 2011, 06:06:35 AM
Reply #5

Kane82

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Okay, I've been thinking of how to reply to this for a day or so now.  I'm going to give it a go and we'll take it from there.

First and foremost - Just a reminder,  you don't have to rely on outside opinions too much - its your model, so do with it what you want, and what you're comfortable with.  Remember that everyone needs practice when trying new techniques.  I can certainly attest to that.

Now, that's being said, I'll offer some advice with your current situation.  As far as the primer, I almost exclusively use Tamiya Gray primer.  I find it's a safe balance between using white and black so no, you should have no problem using something other than white.

I would run a few finer grit sand paper over those scratches.  I'm not sure if you'd need another layer of primer, I would say no, but some others might disagree.  Just use finer grits and see if you can't polish that down a bit.

As for the rivets - If you're looking for an antiquated look, a lot of rivets will do the trick, but personally I don't like that look.  That's just my opinion though, as long as you like it, that's great.  I think your placement looks good so far.

As for the pla-plating, I'm not sure what you mean by them being "too square".  If you're just using them as panels for rivets, I don't think it will matter, but other than that, again, I'm not sure what you mean.

I hope that's useful.  You don't have to listen to a word of it, again, its your model, but hopefully I cleared up a few things.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2011, 06:13:15 AM by Kane82 »
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May 05, 2011, 06:41:32 PM
Reply #6

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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I see.  Thanks.  You're right; I should not rely solely on the opinion of others.  But I do value what you all have to say.  So thanks for your input, as always!

:3




Okay, so not a super-big update, but I would like to share something I just discovered.






I've found an old hole-punch thing from the arts-and-crafts era.  There's a wide range of different sizes and shapes, and, as it turns out, they cut through my pla plating wonderfully.

Oh, I'm excited!  I found this awesome fleur-de-lis pattern, and knew right away I wanted to use it.  The only place I felt it would be prudent is on the left thigh, though.  But I can deal with this.  (The other place was on the butt; I'm not really one for a tramp-stamp on my mecha.)

Here are some more views of what the fleur looks like.

I'll get some nice grey primer soon and hit this thing up, then I can move on to painting!
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May 06, 2011, 06:42:47 AM
Reply #7

Kane82

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May 09, 2011, 04:16:05 PM
Reply #8

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Okay, I think I know what I need to do to make this thing look like it's from an underwater WWII battlefield:

RIVETS





RIVETS EVERYWHERE*



Oh, God, so many rivets...
And this is just one shoulder.


:L



Yeah, this will take a while.


I think this'll be the last thing I do before I prime.  Otherwise, I'll be adding random bits ad infinitum, and I'll never get a chance to practice with my airbrush (I wanna try preshading, panel-lining, decals, washes, the works).



*(And when I say "RIVETS EVERYWHERE" I mean this: "Rivets where it looks like two flat sheets of metal may have been joined together to create that specific shape, or where rivets may have been used to hold down extra armor plating, or wherever rivets might just look good and catch the wash and make the Gogg look old and stuff.")
« Last Edit: May 09, 2011, 04:18:30 PM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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May 09, 2011, 05:06:18 PM
Reply #9

Kane82

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Just for future reference, if you plan on using that many rivets, you may want to look into a pin-vice hand drill and a bag full of aluminum balls, it might save you some trouble creating all those little rivets.

Otherwise, keep up the good work!
Building Gundam Kits since 1995

May 26, 2011, 02:40:46 PM
Reply #10

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Just to let you guys know I'm not dead (the whole one of you reading; love ya, Kane!):

I've made a little progress on the riveting process (which it invariably isn't) (ha ha, punny).
Progress is a little slow because the end of the school year is comin' up fast, and I'm graduating (from high school) in June (though it's not like I'm doing anything in my AP classes), and I'm trying to find a job (so I can get monies to buy MORE BANDAI models!  Yay!), and some other projects that I am likewise neglecting.

But eh.  I enjoy it when I get around to it.





My bro suggested I add a few more rivets to the head.  I may do that.  Not too sure how I feel about the rivets on the fleur de lis, though...

(Yes, I'm using super glue for rivets.  It's wasteful and makes a mess, but it's been working wonderfully so far, and the discoloration will (hopefully) be covered up by paint.)
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May 26, 2011, 04:53:19 PM
Reply #11

Kane82

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I think the rivets look good on the head, nice placement.  I should think as long as you prime first before the paint, you should have no problem with the discoloration. 

Glad to see you're still at it - I'm sure more people are following your posts, they just don't always post.  Don't get discouraged by that.  Keep up the good work!
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May 27, 2011, 12:27:14 AM
Reply #12

Sticky Fingers

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I read but don't post.
Oh, wait.



Anyway, rivets good, more rivets better. I personally would at at least 4 more to the fleur de lis, one each on the outside bends of the two middle petals. Hope that makes sense?
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May 30, 2011, 05:21:26 AM
Reply #13

Sharkdog

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Those rivets look pretty ace, I sure do loves me some rivets.

May 30, 2011, 08:25:27 AM
Reply #14

Zircor

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Wait, you're not going for a steampunk Gogg are you?  :)

June 26, 2011, 11:16:03 AM
Reply #15

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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No, I'm not going to a Steampunk Gogg.   ;3
I'm aiming more for a Weird War II Gogg, sort of like a dieselpup style.

In fact, here's a test fit:



(PS: this thing is huge, even for a 1/100th scale!  The Gogg must be a large suit.)

I hope no one minds that I left off the arm armor; I didn't want to slide the rings on only to find I can't get them off.  And I don't really think rivets would look very good on them, anyway.



I'll prime it shortly.  I think I'll lay down a layer of a dark color to function as the "unpainted metal" of the model.  I wanna try the salt method of weathering, so I'll apply the salt after that coat is dry, then go about with the submarine-grey of the top coats.
I think wetsanding may be a little tricky, what with all the rivets.  Should I bother?  A rough texture of the paint may lend a more ... aged look to the overall model, anyway.  What do you think?




(I bet you guys thought I gave up on this, didn't you?  ;P  )
« Last Edit: June 26, 2011, 11:20:10 AM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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July 10, 2011, 05:43:40 PM
Reply #16

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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Okay, so I got the armor bits mostly primed.



As I said on the Flickr page, I ran out of primer as I was priming the last leg bits.  I couldn't get to the backpack yet.  I guess it's 'cause I was kinda sloppy with the primer; my Styrofoam base thing isn't large enough to hold all the armor bits at one time, and I don't have enough skewers / alligator clip assemblies that that, anyway. 
I guess it's time to go get some more of those and get a bigger Styrofoam base!

Also: the front groin armor looks much more unified.  I like it.




After I'm done priming the rest, I think I'll get some rust paint (some sort of redbrown) and lay down a layer of that (I'll also spot on some darker splotches, too, like FitchenFoo did with the Scopedog; I won't be adding the tactile texture, though).
I think I'll use a mixture of the salt and hairspray methods.  Any advice on that?   (Other than "Don't overdo it."  :P  )



Regarding wet-sanding: is that something I should do?  I don't want to knock off the rivets while I'm trying to smooth the primed surfaces, but I know it will help the final texture be smoother.  Should I risk the rivets and smooth out the surfaces?
« Last Edit: July 10, 2011, 05:45:42 PM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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July 10, 2011, 07:09:07 PM
Reply #17

Sharkdog

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Looks good, I really like the rivets on the hand. I daresay that the shoulder piece kind of looks like it actually has too many rivets!

The groin piece looks very good right now, some primer always helps to make it look like one whole piece, don't it?

July 14, 2011, 06:24:37 PM
Reply #18

The Magic Tuba Pixie

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As I said in my previous post, I ran out of primer when I was almost finished.
Here is a pic of the untouched and unfinished pieces:



(I apologize for the awfulness of this picture.)

As you can see, I did not finish the inner leg armor, I didn't get into every nook and cranny on the fingers, and I didn't even touch the backpack.

What I'm asking is this: is it worth it to go buy a new can of primer for these nine pieces?  I have some black and white primer, but I don't know if that will effect the final color of the paint.  I bought rust flavored colored enamel paint for the under coat, over which I will spray the battleship grey (after a layer of salt and hairspray).  Will the color of the primer still be evident?
I also have some more models that I should prime, as well, so it's not like I will end up throwing away an almost full can of primer.

Should I use the black or the white primer?  Should I go get more grey primer?  Should I not worry about it and go ahead with the enamel layer?

Thank you for your help!
« Last Edit: July 14, 2011, 06:26:55 PM by The Magic Tuba Pixie »
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July 14, 2011, 06:45:54 PM
Reply #19

Sharkdog

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I think you might be better off getting more grey primer.

As I've learned here, it's that the shade of the primer can affect how the paint eventually comes out. I was painting an inner thruster yellow, but it kept coming out real dark. After asking about it on these forums FF chimed in to say it was because yellow was basically too light to go on top of grey. I ended up priming it in white and it came out well.

I don't have much experience with painting at all, but from that I'm deducing that if you prime these last few parts in black or white, that they might come out looking a little darker or lighter than the rest of the parts (painted with the same colour).