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Messages - Zircor

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for the support of the shield, packs u can use the adapter parts from impulse gundam or the back parts of an MG Strike gundam, as for the side mounts u can use the shoulders armors also from an MG kit.
sides use of the shoulder armors

use of the adapter/back torso parts

hope this can be of a little help :D
pictures are from PG Skygrasper

Yep, already have the parts from MG strike for the back and shoulders.  What I was trying to figure out was the part on the forearms where the shield would go in.  On the PG the shoulder part slides back to reveal the hole where the shield would go on (and the rifle, with the adapter on the opposite side).

Got some work done on this today, but have a few things I'd like advice on. I edited the post above with my questions.

Thanks guys!  :)

For those of you who can't get enough of the Kshatriya G-Systems has announced a 1/72 version.  All I have to say is that it will be huge!!!!

Holy crap, what is it going to cost?  The souls of half of the planet??????

I bet it's going to be absolutely gorgeous, though....

This is going to sound really dumb, but remember, I am a a n00b to this, so just want to make sure I don't make any dumb mistakes  :steam2:

Are there any problems painting wise if I buy a model with 'clear parts'? Just because it seems like the rereleases come with an arm and a leg being clear X_x

The clear parts are an extra runner.  You'll still get the normal colored parts.

As far as painting, just use primer and it'll be ok (point, look at the repaints people are doing of Unicorn, and the psycho frame).  From what I've noticed on the few clear kits I've had, the clear tends to be more brittle than normal colored stuff.

Painting/Priming / Re: Bit Frustrated - Need Advice on Keeping Clean
« on: June 12, 2010, 10:19:21 AM »
Yea sorry about that, it is a siphon fed airbrush.
I do keep the paint already mixed in storage jars. Should I only do the thinning when I'm going to paint and use it all up at that time?
When ready to paint I take off the storage cap and put on the cap for brushing (with the tubing/hose). The problem just seems to be that the jar could use an o-ring of some sort, something better than the cardboard that the jar comes with-

I have looked through FF's tutorial and it was helpful but I meant to mention that when I take the jar away from the airbrush, paint drips out because the joint is simply metal on metal. Does this happen to everyone and just a simple fact?


I haven't had any problems storing thinned paint in the jars for my Badger airbrush (some of them sat for 6-8 months so far and still seem to spray good).  Of course, they'll need mixing to be usable again, as all the paint separated from the thinner, but that's what my handy-dandy mixer is for  :D

And yes, with siphon-fed brushes, the paint leaking is one of the drawbacks that you'll just have to figure something that works for you to minimize.  I tend to try to only mix up what i need (which kinda defeats the purpose of having the jars, I'll admit).  If I have a tiny bit left over, I'll find something to do with it; if it's a lot, then usually will just use a paper towel to try and minimize the paint getting all over me.

I recently bought a gravity-fed Iwata HP-C+ and I have to say it's eliminated almost all of the paint-wasting problems I had with my Badger 175.  It tends to be very efficient with spraying of the paint, don't have the mess when changing paints, etc.  The paint finish is also VERY nice compared to the Badger (the Badger tended to leave textures in the paint finish).

All right so I need a little help with my Crescendo; I started using it today to apply a basecoat to a few pieces and as soon as I started painting one of the pieces I noticed I was getting an insane amount of runny pieces, at first I thought I'd thinned my paint to much but after fixing that problem I noticed it did it regardless, then I noticed that the head of the airbrush was doing this:

At first it was the bottom section, so I tried tightening it just in case but then the upper part started doing it and intermittently both sections do it... any ideas on what's to blame?

REALLY can't tell what we're looking at in the vid (really blurry).  Is the primer coming out from the threading in the needle cap?

What PSI are you at when this is happening?

What programs do you guys use to do your drawings in?

As I'm an engineering student, I'm trying to (remember how to) use Inventor and Autocad to do some drawings for a project I'm working on.

Someone should tell me these things before I go and pre-order stuff at HLJ... oh well, I guess I can cancel it. AmiAmi doesn't do cancellations though... Just in case I'm selling a kidney tomorrow and putting that in my MG The O fund.

Well, seeing as how you don't have to pay them anything up-front, you could just, Oh, I dunno, not pay them when it came time, if you changed your mind.  Which is what I might end up doing.  Placed the pre-order there anyway  :)

Model Gallery / Re: ZGMF-1000 Zaku Warrior 1/100 Custom Paint
« on: May 18, 2010, 09:26:23 AM »
Wow, nice.  I love the shading.  The texture on the chest just pops at me (how did you do it?)  Only thing I maybe could think of is having a few more decals.  Maybe I've just gotten used to seeing all the ver Ka type decal schemes, but it seems like it should have one or four more...  ;)

Model News Feed / Re: MG The O announced!!!
« on: May 15, 2010, 04:42:36 PM »
I'm definitely going to end up getting this....  but in the distant future.  Too many other things that I want to get first, plus I don't even remember The O (guess i need to finish watching Zeta).  Going to be getting HGUC Dendro, Psycho, and MG Perfect Zeong first though I think.  Loving my ginormous Ex-S  :D  Here's hoping for a Sazabi 2.0 in the near future....

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / 1/100 MG-ish Skygrasper build (updated)
« on: May 14, 2010, 06:16:40 PM »
Hey guys, I'm working on kitbashing a MG Skygrasper (thought it was a waste having so many striker packs and not enough strikes for them.... ). While I'm still mostly in the planning phase, thinking about how to do everything and all, there's a couple of questions and problems I was running into. I'm basing it mostly off of the PG version, but as this is my first scratchbuild I'm going to be simplifying stuff as much as I can (cannibalizing the back and shoulders from a MG Strike, and the nosecone/cockpit from a 1/100 VF-1D Macross Valkyrie kit).

My first and largest issue: the dome on the top that the main beam cannon goes into. How would one scratchbuild one of those? I haven't seen any spherical pla-plate, and can't think of anything else to even try to use (ping pong balls are about the same size/larger than the PG one).

And of course as I was writing that, an idea hit me upside the head. Might try using those plastic containers that the cheap 25 cent toys come in from vending machines.

Next, suggestions for doing the shield mounting points on the sides? Simplest thing I guess to do would be to just drill a hole the right size, but that might look a bit ugly. Ideally I'd like to have it be slideable like the PG, but not sure how to accomplish that.

Third, how should I go about actually making the intake? vent on the bottom? Would I leave it hollow, or fill it in with putty, or have crosssections of plaplate? Mostly I'm trying to figure out how to get the angles on it correct. I could just be lazy and make it a straight rectangle, but that would be kind of boring looking. Most of the body will be from the valk, with some added details here and there (of course, with the valk torso being way to wide, it'll get chopped down a bunch).

Anyway, that's it as far as questions for the actual build goes. A few of my friends that I've been talking to about this project have shown an interest in having me cast it for them, so are there any suggestions about things to do/not do as I'm working on the build? And how in the world would I go about casting the canopy?

Here's a link a completed kit of the valkyrie (VF-1D) that I have:

So I ended up getting the Harbor Freight airbrush/compressor combo for 79.99. I received it yesterday and I'm quite please with it, buuuut...  I have one problem. The hose connection is 1/8" and my crescendo hose is 1/4". I went out and got a 1/8 female-to-1/4 male bushing/adapter at Home Depot and while it works - it does have one leak. Anyone got any ideas on how to fix it?

If you'll read up a couple-few posts in this thread (I think it's this thread anyway) we mention a kind of tape you can buy to put on the threads to seal off leaks (can't remember the name of it, and I'm feeling kinda lazy right now to look back up and find it for you).  My setup had a bunch of leaks too, and that stuff worked wonders on them.

Model In-Progress / Re: MG GM Custom - Ruby Guard
« on: May 14, 2010, 10:57:49 AM »
Loving the mods so far.  Gives me some great ideas for my Powered GM and Spartan  :D

Model Gallery / Re: MG 1/100 ZGMF-X20A Strike Freedom Ver.Black
« on: April 22, 2010, 07:12:25 PM »
I so want to rename this as "Strike Freedom Noir"  :D

Love the paint scheme.

I like it.  Been waiting for it to come out ever since I read 0079 manga (or was that The Origin? ).  I like it MUCH better than the Sentinel version of FA gundam, TBH.

Model In-Progress / Re: VF-2SS VALKYRIE II + FRAME ARMS
« on: April 19, 2010, 02:05:15 PM »
Awesome idea and so far it looks good  :)  Can't wait to see the finished result!

Capitalism Corner* / Re: 1/100 Endless Waltz kits/New Gunpla at HTUSA
« on: April 08, 2010, 06:36:03 PM »
Mine will get Gunpla in every once in a while; lately it's just been 00 kits (mostly just SD and 1/144, though they did get the individually packed 00 and 0-Raiser in a while back).  They have the HD MKII 2.0s for $70 each or so.  I bought some Alclad Chrome for $30!!!!! a while ago too.

Painting/Priming / Re: "GM" Blue?
« on: March 20, 2010, 12:44:34 PM »
Yup, the minty blue that's only ever found on the GMs :)  Thank you for the suggestion, I'll try it and see what I come up with.  I wasn't quite sure if I should start with a blue base and add white, or vice versa.

Painting/Priming / "GM" Blue?
« on: March 20, 2010, 09:30:37 AM »
Any suggestions for mixing the "GM blue" color that is on almost all of the GMs? (the first GM, GM Custom, etc).  I'm using Tamiya right now, but may end up using Mr Color instead.  White and blue are a given (but which blue?  and is there one already premixed?).

Build-Offs & Duels / Re: MGX4 Challenge
« on: March 10, 2010, 04:44:46 PM »
I just did my "good" tests on the Mr. Color Metallic Red.

Over a white primer base:
Kinda pinkish. Slightly metallic but not very, and not a great color for my usual needs.

Over Super Fine Silver:
More metallic, darker. Almost like a candy coat, but with less work so good for small apps where needed. Applying clear red over it could only make it better.

Mixed with Super Fine Silver, sprayed over white:

Neat color, still not what I'm looking for. Metallic mauve.

Over Gray Primer Base:
Looks like metal painted red. Very bland and drab. Reminds me of an old firetruck or grill.

I assume this will be the same for the blue so you might want to try a silver or chrome base-coat to make it really pop.

Have you tried on a gloss black basecoat?  Just asking because I know a lot of the metallics say to use this to get the best effect.  Just wondering what it would look like.

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