Author Topic: 1/72 Destroid Tomahawk  (Read 19837 times)

May 18, 2011, 08:36:02 PM
Reply #20

Atlas100

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For internal surfaces at the collar, I found that the grey was too light. I airbrushed them again with a much darker grey (by adding more black to the mix), not only aimed to make the head stands out from the torso, but also to create an artificial shadow surrounding the head to camouflage the poly-cap that holds the head.



This darker grey was also used to airbrush the internal surface of the shoulder missile covers and the “jaw” of the head to camouflage mounding marks which were not sanded away earlier.




For the guns and knee joints, I added Mahogany (reddish brown) to grey. This darkened the grey and gave it a subtle reddish hue. Black can be added for a darker tone.




For the shoulder missiles, I added a little deep orange to Character Flesh colour. For the top-mounted missiles, I used the deep orange.


May 19, 2011, 03:31:55 AM
Reply #21

ahaiko

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Really enjoying this WIP. Your detailed step by step instructions are very much appreciated. Keep up the great work.

May 20, 2011, 09:38:16 PM
Reply #22

Grail

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Great wip and build!
Throw it Hard

June 03, 2011, 02:42:34 PM
Reply #23

Heavy Melder

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Some nice workmanship going on here.....
Aaron Propper
"I don't understand any of this! But when we get in the giant robots, WE MUST FIGHT!!!"

June 05, 2011, 07:59:07 PM
Reply #24

Atlas100

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Hi Ahaiko / Grail / Heavy Melder.

Thanks for your comments.

Let's hope that the final result will turn out great.

June 05, 2011, 08:09:54 PM
Reply #25

Atlas100

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Decals

I airbrushed almost all the parts with Gaia Ex-03 Ex-clear (gloss) to prepare the surfaces for decaling and panel lining. For decaling, I used Mr Mark Setter and Mr Mark Softer.



After cutting out a decal and submerged it in water, it took about a minute before the decal came loose from its paper backing. I found that the decals from this kit are quite thick but because of this, the decals were easier to handle and push around with a wet brush without fearing it folding upon itself or tearing apart especially after applying Mr Mark Softer.

After a decal was loosened from its paper backing, I used a small amount of Mr Mark Setter to wet the surface where I wanted to place the decal. Mr Mark Setter helps to soften the decal slightly and hold it to the surface better. On flat glossy surfaces, Mr Mark Setter was optional and I could simply use water instead.

Using the brush, I slid the decal off its paper backing and moved it onto the intended surface. The brush was then used to shift the decal around until it was in proper position. At times, the decal will stick firmly to the surface too fast before I could move it to its correct position. In this case, I wet the decal with water until the decal was able to move around again. Once the decal was in the correct position, I used a small piece of paper towel or brush to dry the decal gently. I also used the brush to push out any air trapped under the decal when it was still wet.

For a decal on round surface, the decal folded along its edges and did not stick down to the surface completely. I used Mr Mark Softer and brushed a THIN layer over the decal, allowing the solution to seep into the folds. I put it aside to let it dry. Mr Mark Softer significantly softened the decal, causing the folds on the decal to settle down onto the surface gradually. As the decals from this kit are rather thick, most of the time I needed to apply Mr Mark Softer two to three times (after each layer was almost dried) over the decals before the folds managed to settle on the surface. I had experience with thinner decals from other manufacturers. They tend to soften and wrinkle up almost immediately upon application of Mr Mark Softer (In fact, care must be taken when applying Mr Mark Softer as the solution is quite strong and can eat into the decals if too much is applied), but I did not see this effect on Tomahawk’s decals.



For this project, I placed the decals on locations as indicated in the instruction manual. The original decals allowed me to customise numbers to my needs. One example is shown in the photo above (D3 as in the name of this project, Destroid March)

June 05, 2011, 10:34:17 PM
Reply #26

Bawoo

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This is killer, LOVE the classic Tomahawk!  Very clean work on this, and I to appreciate the detailed step by step.  Gotta get this kit, and can't wait to see it come together.  I don't see the shading really clearly, but that may be the photography, I hope to have a better view once the parts are together.

How do you like those Gaia paints?
Animation Scale Models 4U 2.0
http://models4you.whoadude.com

June 06, 2011, 06:32:02 PM
Reply #27

Atlas100

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Hi Bawoo. Thanks for reading.

I tried to avoid too much shading (to avoid looking too artificial if I overdid it) so I covered most of them with base colour. Moreover, the colour of the preshade is rather light. That is why you can't really see them clearly. Say if I want to redo it and the desired result is to have a more prominent shadowing and heavier shading, I will use a much darker colour for the preshade.

I used Gaia White, Black and Clear at the moment. They seems to behave the same as Mr Color. The reason why I bought Gaia is that I use White/Black/Clear more frequent than any other colours and they come in bigger bottles (50ml). They can mix with Mr Color as well. And I like the stickman logo ^_^


« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 06:34:27 PM by Atlas100 »

June 07, 2011, 12:10:32 AM
Reply #28

Atlas100

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I faced problem using the decals for the legs.
There are two parts for the white stripe on the leg. The decal is supposed to place over a raised “disc”.



After putting the decals on the surface, I had a lot of difficulty trying to match the two decals together, especially when one of them was supposed to wrap over the disc. As the surface is uneven, there were harsh ugly folds on the decals which even Mr Mark Softer couldn’t get rid off. At first, I thought of using hobby knife to cut away the protruding folds. Eventually, I simply scraped the entire decals away using wet brush (and fingernail) and resorted to masking and airbrushing the white stripes.



June 07, 2011, 12:13:03 AM
Reply #29

Atlas100

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There is a decal with many wordings on the back of the shoulder lamp. Maybe my eyes are getting old, but the printing is so small that I can’t read it without the zoom-in on my camera. As you can see, dirt was trapped beneath the decal. Better luck next time.




June 07, 2011, 12:19:26 AM
Reply #30

Atlas100

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White Markings

I had also masked and airbrushed other white markings on the cannon barrels, shoulder plates, collar and head.






However, I found that the white marking on the head was too thin for my liking. I decided to re-airbrush it to make it wider and more prominent.


June 07, 2011, 05:33:27 AM
Reply #31

Hemish

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Looking good mate, cant wait to see it finished

June 07, 2011, 10:07:19 AM
Reply #32

Steel-Mark

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Perfect WIP with interesting subject :)
I'm following...

June 07, 2011, 10:45:51 AM
Reply #33

Bawoo

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Thanks for the info about the paint, I didn't know Gaia color could be mixed with Mr. Color, that's cool!  Good choice on airbrushing the strip, that's a nasty spot for a decal...
Animation Scale Models 4U 2.0
http://models4you.whoadude.com

June 08, 2011, 08:47:29 AM
Reply #34

Atlas100

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Thanks Hemish / Steel-Mark / Bawoo.

I have been visiting the gym lately. My newfound strength.



I was attaching the nozzle to my airbrush with a mini-spanner and with a little twist, the nozzle broke into two…

Wasted time and money to buy a new nozzle. Ok, back to work.


June 08, 2011, 08:50:14 AM
Reply #35

Atlas100

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The progress has been slow and discouraging. To perk things up, I assembled a few parts to delight myself.



Not really 100% identical to the initial colour concept, but guess it has to do.

June 14, 2011, 03:26:52 AM
Reply #36

Hemish

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The parts you have together look fantastic

October 01, 2013, 08:10:54 PM
Reply #37

Atlas100

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Thanks Hemish. Sorry for taking so long to reply.

It has been more than 2 years lull but I’m finally finishing the project. More details coming.

October 01, 2013, 08:22:22 PM
Reply #38

Atlas100

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Decals. For the legs, I’d decided to use the available triangular decals for convenience instead of masking out the shapes. However the white decals are never as opaque as the airbrushed white. One can really see the difference between airbrushed and decal-ed white. I tried applying brown oil filter on both whites with the intention of bringing both whites closer. It didn’t really work although they still looks ok in general. Eventually I left it as it is.


October 02, 2013, 01:43:17 AM
Reply #39

Atlas100

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Panel lining.

As the surfaces were glossed earlier, I proceeded with panel lining, using Tamiya enamel paints.



I used dark brown for most of the panel linings. For the guns, I used black.









There were many panel linings to do but these are what made the parts look good. A few areas were either not properly glossed earlier or with poorly painted surfaces that turned out rough. Instead of running along the grooves and corners smoothly, the enamel paint spread over these surfaces messily. I found myself using many cotton buds wet with thinner to literally scrub the runaway paints. Tedious work with strains of cotton residue here and there to be picked away with tweezers.

Some panel linings were not deep enough; the paint in the linings were either wiped away too easily when cleaned up with cotton buds or failed to flow smoothly along the shallow grooves. I found myself using a paintbrush to draw the panel linings literally. These lines were cleaned to a uniform thickness with another clean paintbrush wet with thinner. I started to appreciate the need to deepen panel linings with a scriber before painting.