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Messages - Bawoo

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81
Model In-Progress / Strike Gundam Pack Test Unit
« on: August 11, 2005, 10:26:14 AM »
Nice. :)  I've seen those hinges before and been tempted, but never brought myself to buy them.  Are they loosey goosey, or do they hold their position (obviously they can't hold much weight, but...)?

82
Model Gallery / Gundam Hazel Conversion Completed
« on: August 08, 2005, 01:14:05 PM »
You might not be the first to finish, but it's the first I've seen.  Where else did you see people talking about it?  I didn't sell any to Italy (not directly anyway).  Hopefully we'll get to see some others too.  It's a major buzz for me!  I didn't really make any money on this project, so this is the real payoff.  Anyway, your presentation is really dramatic, it really does do the kit justice...

83
Model Gallery / MG Rick-dom mod - Behemoth
« on: August 08, 2005, 08:38:20 AM »
A bit of an odd looking beast, but dude, those hands are amazing!  And all of the scratchbuild work is clean and wonderful.  Very cool!

84
Model Gallery / Gundam Hazel Conversion Completed
« on: August 08, 2005, 08:28:38 AM »
Man, I love that pose!  And I like the variations with the gold and the colors and Ore guns.  Great work, and it makes me happy to see the first of my kits finished!  Too cool... :)

85
Model Talk / Grrrr...recasters and rip-off types...
« on: August 08, 2005, 08:18:29 AM »
Yeah, I probably won't bother hassling hobbyfan about it, they don't appear to have much in the way of scruples in the first place.  I've gotten over my initial pissed-off-ness and now I'm mostly amused and wondering if I have any other cool stuff for them to steal.  :razz:

86
Model Talk / Grrrr...recasters and rip-off types...
« on: August 02, 2005, 03:38:39 PM »
And who here doesn't hate people who rip off other people's creative work?  Recasters and now logo thieves.  It looks like my "surfing bunny" TTT logo is no officially official, as the 2nd commercial rip-off is now for sale at hobbyfan.com.  At least G-System merely included the decal with their kit, rather than actually selling decals by themselves! Check it out:
http://www.hobbyfan.com/product_info.php?products_id=3024

And they probably think they're ripping of G-System!  I suppose I should be flattered, 10 years from now it'll just be part of Gundam lore, but...Grrr... :mad:

87
Model In-Progress / AoZ TTT Hizack Progress
« on: August 02, 2005, 03:33:21 PM »
Gimme a couple days on those decals... :)  I think the green tint to the photos might be the white balance setting on your camera...looks like it's getting natural light but set to indoor, or vice versa?  Looks good though!

88
Model In-Progress / WIP 1/100 MG GM Quel, Hazel conversion
« on: August 02, 2005, 03:31:31 PM »
I really like the look of your kit, the pose especially!  Not too sure about the gold, but the ORE Guns sure look awesome with the Hazel!  I like the idea of the base...it photographs a little wierd, but I'm sure it's very cool in person.  Nice work!

89
You can also pain the inside color first, then stick them face down on a loop of masking tape before painting the outside.  I use the sticky tac method a lot too...

90
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / How do you cut circles?
« on: June 21, 2005, 12:30:32 PM »
I have 2 methods that I usually use:

1.  Cut the circle as close as you can by hand/whatever means necessary.  Make sure the radius is properly marked with something fairly permanent (sharpie, etc).  Then use files to shave the edges down to finish the circle.  Holding the file flat while rotating the part (keep moving, don't work the same spot for more than a stroke or two!) emulates the action of lathing it.  I promise, with some practice you can make near perfect circles this way.

2. If you can find a copper/brass/aluminum pipe of the right diameter (2cm is probably pushing it), you can sharpen the edge of it using a file, then use it to cut the circle.  Once it's sharpened, press it into the plastic, rotating the pressure until you get enough of a groove that you can start rotating the pipe.  Eventually you'll get pretty much all the way through, then you can do final cleanup with a file or sandpaper.  Probably wouldn't work on anything more than 2mm thick plastic though...

Files are better than sandpaper for rounding circles!  The back and forth action of the sandpaper is more likely to make your parts out of round, whereas the single cutting direction of the file lets you rotate the part as you cut.  Definitely better!

91
Model Talk / Falcon
« on: May 13, 2005, 02:55:07 PM »
Not big enough, but hell yeah!  It's about time!!!!!  Makes me feel bummed about all the work I put into that old ERTL kit and still never finished it.  I LOVE the way they're dealing with the greebly detailing...oh man, that looks like such a beautiful kit!  And they would hit me with the news in the midst of my raging Star Wars fever!   :shock:

92
Painting/Priming / Primer mistake?
« on: April 15, 2005, 06:37:07 AM »
More likely you just sprayed it on too heavily (spray can or airbrush?).  Try a lighter coat next time, keep the airbrush or spray can moving at all times, and try spraying a little farther away from the model.

93
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Greebles are awesome!
« on: April 08, 2005, 07:55:55 AM »
There are a bunch of ways to make your own minus molds...I've been meaning to talk about this on my website.  2 that I've used:

1. Grab some sheet styrene the thickness of the minus mold you want (.03"-.05" is probably good).  You also need a piece of brass/copper tubing the diameter of the part you want (make sure it's long enough to get a good grip), and a thin piece of metal the shape of the minus part (mini screwdrivers are good).  
  - Sharpen the end of the tube by rotating it while pressing it against a large flat file.
  - Use the tube to cut a circle out of the sheet plastic, pressing it firmly into the plastic and rotating until it cuts through (you may have to practice a bit to get good circles, and resharpen the tube occasionally).  If they stick in the end of the tube, poke them out with a long stiff wire.
  - Heat up the end of the screwdriver or whatever you found with a lighter or stove, then press it gently into the little circle to make the minus.  Wait a few seconds until it cools to pull it out. I like to hold the circles down with a loop of tape to keep them under control.

2. This one makes better looking minus molds, and is better for larger parts.  You again need a tube the diameter of the minus mold you want (you could use plastic, but metal is stronger and thus easier to get even shapes from ).  You also need some kind of filler (I use a mix of CA and corn starch), and flat file and modeling saw.
  - Fill the end of the tube so you have a solid rod.
  - File or sand the end flat, then create a bevel the circumference by rotating it against the file, held at an angle.
  - Saw a notch across the center, your basically making a screw head.
  - Us this as a "push master" to make a simple one part mold, pushing it into super sculpey (this worked best for me) or epoxy putty (or whatever else you can think of!).  Make a bunch so you can make multiple parts at a time.
  - Fill the molds.  Polyurethane resin would work great, but lacking that I have used Bondo polyester putty thinned a little with acetone or MEK.  Thinning it reduces the strength, but you don't need much strength for these.  Just fill them as best you can, and scrape off the excess so you have a relatively flat part.
  - After the putty/resin cures, remove the parts.  You can level the backs or thin them out by holding them down on a large flat file with your finger, and just dragging them toward the handle of the file.

Or you can just buy the darn things from HLJ of course! ;)

94
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / technique of making feet
« on: April 08, 2005, 07:39:22 AM »
Sounds like we need a cameraman(woman). :)

95
Assembly/Scratchbuilding / technique of making feet
« on: April 06, 2005, 08:06:37 AM »
I don't know that he could have explained it much more clearly, but I'll try to clarify it for you...

He built the basic shapes out of sheet plastic; top, bottom, and sides.  The notched part on the top is just a very thin sheet with the notches cut out, glued to the thicker top piece, which add the recessed detail.  When he glued on the side pieces, he ended up with a stairstep seam between the original red foot part and the plastic sheet.  The putty just covers the seam between the sheet plastic side pieces and the original foot.  Glop the putty over the seam and sand smooth...is that the part you didn't get?

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