Glue Questions and Tips

[zerobxu]

Scarring may be a factor down the line with amateur glue sutures, but hey--Pain fades, chicks dig scars, and glory is forever.

[Artic Fox]

to go with what Fulcy said, duct tape was used for the same thing

[Major Blah]

I wear safety glasses when I use CA glue, sounds a bit extreme but it's apparently one of the most dangerous thing you can do to your eyes.  So I rather be safe then sorry.  :wink:

[Oliphont]

The creation of this sticky coincides with a wonderful discovery I've made: CA glue is the best cut-sealer I've found. Not only does it glue the skin together, but it protects it! After I laid open my thumb with a large serrated bread knife on Saturday, I thought I'd need stitches. Nope. CA to the rescue, and all is well.

Remember, folks, that's C-A, and not B-A-N-D-A-I-D

Word, ive xacto'ed my thumbs a few times, an as an avid guitar player, that poses issues...so i super glue or CA em. Stevie Ray Vaughan would super glue his fingers to his elbows or something like that to get extra skin on em o.o (or so they say).

[clee-cm]

When I was working at the post office, we were given pieces of duct tape or scotch tape to close a cut when we ran out of band aids.

You learn something new each day, super glue was used to close wounds :), but you need to be careful, certain types of super glue contain a small amount of cyanide, so be careful. :sherlock:

[D:Fuse]

What is the most common type of clamp you guys use to hold the glued pieces together that does not actually deform or crush the plastic?

As for gluing pieces together which work better, gluing both side before putting it together or gluing the seam after the pieces are snapped together?

[Oliphont]

What is the most common type of clamp you guys use to hold the glued pieces together that does not actually deform or crush the plastic?

As for gluing pieces together which work better, gluing both side before putting it together or gluing the seam after the pieces are snapped together?

I got these cheap bo-bo like multi colored clamps at god knows where that arent very strong, but enuf for models, and they arent abrasive on the parts...ive seen another memeber with them....look really cheesy

[Mindless]

The creation of this sticky coincides with a wonderful discovery I've made: CA glue is the best cut-sealer I've found. Not only does it glue the skin together, but it protects it! After I laid open my thumb with a large serrated bread knife on Saturday, I thought I'd need stitches. Nope. CA to the rescue, and all is well.

Remember, folks, that's C-A, and not B-A-N-D-A-I-D

That's what I've used during all my years in modeling to quickly heal cuts when I've slipped with my hobby knife. Very effective.

Also, you don't have to worry about taking it off. After a few days, it's all gone and the cut is hopefully healed.  :)

What is the most common type of clamp you guys use to hold the glued pieces together that does not actually deform or crush the plastic?

As for gluing pieces together which work better, gluing both side before putting it together or gluing the seam after the pieces are snapped together?

I use these: Wolfcraft Clamping Tools

They come in a great variety that can be used for different purposes. Works great. Highly recommended.

Regarding how I glue: I first glue then seam then clamp the parts together, then I put a couple of layers (two or three) of glue over the seam, then I start working on the part.

[GlauG]

What is the most common type of clamp you guys use to hold the glued pieces together that does not actually deform or crush the plastic?

As for gluing pieces together which work better, gluing both side before putting it together or gluing the seam after the pieces are snapped together?

I use cheap plastic spring clamps from the local cheapo-mart or my mini vice, depending on the part.  I need to line my vice with rubber or wood or something again though, as it's scratched a few parts recently with the metal edges...

As for gluing, it depends on the glue I'm using.  With thin welding suff, I tend to paint down the seam, but for thicker poly cement or CA glue I usually stick some on one/both sides and then snap it.

[clee-cm]

I have used the paper clams that they sell in the office supply stores, they work fine for holding glued model parts together (I was building a airplane at the time). I used the large ones, that clip together thick stacks of paper.

I also did some a search for Ambroid Proweld, here is the URL for the manufacturer's website.

Ambroid

[pu_rplecow]

Anyone knows how to dissolve latex glue without using corrosive liquids that would damage plastics?

[Lingwendil]

I've always used CA for most parts, but lately I found my testors, I hate the stuff. Testors is too goopy for me, I'm gettin some tamiya soon. I've heard good things about that " The Orange" stuff though, if I can find some I'll try it.

Oh, and BTW,

Pain fades, chicks dig scars, and glory is forever.

New. Effin. Sig.

[Major Blah]

Based on the recommendation from clee-cm and Irk, i picked up a bottle of Ambroid Proweld yseterday.  What I say is "wow"  it's so much better than Tamiya glue that I've been using up till now.  And it's cheaper than the Tamiya as well (local art supplies store sells a bottle for $4 CND).

And it is very easy to tip over, I copied Irk's trick and hot-glued the bottle to a piece of wood.  Thanks guys for the good recommendation!

[FichtenFoo]

This is why I like this place... always new and great tips to learn! I'm going to have to pick up some of this and try it out.

So how is it compared to the smell of the Tamiya glue? That stuff... can I get a shout-out for ventilation?

[Major Blah]

Same pleasant smell that makes me go all happy inside. 

I thiink the basic "ingredient" or chemical makeup is the same as the other "glue" like Tamiya, just that it's faster, less viscous, and dries faster (maybe stronger too).

[Irk]

And it is very easy to tip over,

He, He! Yeah Major - I had to use the coaster idea on my SECOND bottle!  Oh and one more thing FF you could get cancer by using this glue but apparently only in California! (according to the label)

[FichtenFoo]

Oh and one more thing FF you could get cancer by using this glue but apparently only in California! (according to the label)

Heh... same with the Tamiya though.

[oteebzo]

GOOD THING WE'RE NOT IN CALI!!!!

[Soul3ss]

I've used Tamiya Cement (orange), once dry it's too hard for me to sand off. I usually end up messing up the surface and any edges and detail and so on. I've used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (green). It doesn't really ooze through the seam, and I add quite a bit, but it is easy to sand though.

Any recommendations on some other type of cement/glue for seams, to make sanding and use of less putty easier?

I've heard people use Zap-a-Gap. Is it any good? Or is there something else out there?

I'd like something easy to sand off, like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement once it's dry.

Thanks a bundle. Back to work...

[clee-cm]

I have not used Tamiya orange, green cement, or Gunze Sangyo Mr Cement, but I have used Ambroid Pro Weld, Tenax, and Plastruct liquid cements. All three work great, but Tenax dries the fastest, and Ambroid is really strong, I have used it to re-glue broken off ABS Plastic parts for my car in the past. Ambroid works great, but if you are not careful will remove the plastic vernier of off of your desk of table.

Both, Tenax and Plastruct don't damage the surface to badly, the glue will evaporate fairly quick. Tenax evaporates the fastest of all the brands I have used. if you are luck, the liquid cement will not distort the surface detail to much, you can use some fine sand paper to minimize the damage. Plastruct does dry quick enough and will not damage the surface unless you touch it while it is wet. I have also used testor's liquid cement, personally I think it is a waste of money.

Zap-a-Gap is basically super glue, it comes in thick or thin types, and gap filling, like any type of super glue you have to allow it time to bond to the surface.

Happy modeling...