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Messages - Soul3ss

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Tools / Re: Recommended pinvice set?
« on: September 15, 2008, 07:41:11 PM »
Couldn't find them at radioshack. I had to settle for the Mr. Hobby ones, i'll just get a better set later on.

I've seen a lot of Gunpla artists in Japan, and some people on other forums use sanding pads. Particularly 3M (these:, so my questions are:

Are 3M sanding pads good for kits, or are there better ones? Such as these:

Are they good for sanding nubs and after using cement? or just for sanding areas that need fixing such as molding surface errors (dips)?

Are the grade in the pads the same as sandpaper? (Example: 3M sanding pad sands just like 320-400 grit sandpaper) The reason I ask is because I've seen sanding paper before like 400 grit, but it's smooth like 1500.

Thanks for the help with the vice set, even though I couldn't find them at radioshack.

Tools / Recommended pinvice set?
« on: September 05, 2008, 07:03:15 PM »
I got some money to spend this month so I'd like to ask:

Anyone have a pinvice set that they recommend?

Is this any good?

I need a set for modifying parts so I can assemble them easier, as seen here:

I also need them for future use, when I drill parts for my own custom kits.

Help is greatly appreciated.

Assembly/Scratchbuilding / Re: Glue Questions and Tips
« on: August 22, 2008, 06:01:08 PM »
I've used Tamiya Cement (orange), once dry it's too hard for me to sand off. I usually end up messing up the surface and any edges and detail and so on. I've used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (green). It doesn't really ooze through the seam, and I add quite a bit, but it is easy to sand though.

Any recommendations on some other type of cement/glue for seams, to make sanding and use of less putty easier?

I've heard people use Zap-a-Gap. Is it any good? Or is there something else out there?

I'd like something easy to sand off, like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement once it's dry.

Thanks a bundle. Back to work...

Painting/Priming / Re: Mr. Sufacer and Primer Questions (post 'em here)
« on: August 22, 2008, 05:28:26 PM »
Work has been piling up for me recently so I don't have much time to research here on the site. I at least have enough time to write this and one more post.

I've been using Tamiya primer for a while now. I prime my kit to check for any mistakes during sanding. There are always many mistakes. When I start to correct the mistakes, I prime once again. The problem is that once the primer is dry, you can see where I sanded. You can see where the primer was left unsanded, it looks like I used 2 different kinds of primer, so it's very noticeable as you can see that's it's not a leveled surface.

Would switching to Mr. Surfacer (jar, so I can thin it) be better for this?

Would it go on even, once I correct mistakes?

What jar would you recommend? 500, 1000, etc?

What are the differences between 500, 1000, etc?

Sorry to bug you all with this. This has stopped me from painting my kits.


I haven't bought the new needle and nozzle yet due to the fact that my art store is out of them. I remember one night, that my airbrush wasn't spraying right. Very little air was coming out of the airbrush (my compressor was working fine), I had to loosen the nozzle cap just to get the normal amount of air to come out of the brush.

Today I talked to my buddy at the art store and he compared the current needle I use to the standard needle for my airbrush. Turns out I was sold a 0.5mm needle in 0.35mm packaging :angry:. Well, after calming down he also told me that the nozzle was damaged due to the 0.5mm needle. He will give me a new correctly sized needle (0.35mm) and a new nozzle (0.35mm) as soon as they arrive, free of charge. Made sense why my airbrush didn't work and the nozzle cap wasn't allowing me to spray well. The nozzle tip got widened by the needle and blocked a lot of air.

BTW, when I thin Mr. Color paints, I add 10cc paint and 12cc thinner. When I airbrush my parts I paint in thin coats slowly, holding my airbrush away from the part (maybe 8 inches away?).

I've been wondering:

The air pressure gauge on my Sprint Jet compressor has a moisture filter, and inside is this small white little filter of some type. Is that supposed to be on tightly or loose?

I've also heard that many people airbrush without the needle cap. I've been told by some people that it sprays finer or that it's better. I'd like to know your opinion from your experience airbrushing, that way I'll know if I should buy a crown cap.

I've found an online store that sells the pre-set handle I'm looking for, but now I'm having second thoughts about buying it (not because it sells for $38 total including shipping). I'm not sure if I should just buy the pre-set handle and crown cap for my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush and "fix" it up, or just buy another airbrush.

What I really want is an airbrush that will give me better results, that's usable with my Iwata Sprint Jet. By better results I mean something that sprays lacquers (Mr. Color) better, that gives me a great surface when I airbrush, and that minimizes or eliminates those little paint spots (blobs/dots) on my paint job.

Should I just fix my airbrush by adding on those parts, or should I just buy a new one (Iwata High Performance plus, Iwata Hi-Line, Iwata Custom Micron)?

Suggestions/tips are extremly appreciated. I just want to get back to building kits. Please help, I want to settle on the right brush, not spend tons of money until I find the right one.

Ah, I see... Then it's my mistake for buying such a large needle and nozzle. I had a feeling it wasn't the right choice when I purchased them, but since I was rushing to get to work I just bought it. The only other options for this brush are a 0.35mm nozzle and 0.35mm needle, are these smaller and should I buy these for my Iwata HP-CS airbrush? Is this a good choice for spraying lacquers?

Also does anyone here know where I can buy an Iwata Pre-Set Adjustable Handle (hopefully at a low price) for my airbrush?

I apologize for this follow up post.

I fixed the problem, all I had to do was sand the blobs/dots of paint with fine Tamiya Compound and 2000 sandpaper. I lightly sanded it and worked well. I noticed that if you sand too much you end up seeing the primer underneath.


I went to my local art store to buy a new needle and nozzle. The needle size was .5 mm and the nozzle was .5 mm as well. Now I'm not an airbrush expert, I've always used my airbrush no matter what problem I've had with it. I placed the new needle and nozzle into my Iwata HP-CS airbrush, added paint and just as I sprayed air I saw paint come out. I continued spraying only air, and I continued to see little paint come out. Is this normal for an airbrush? Or are my new needle and nozzle the problem?

No, I'm not using a moisture trap. I have sprayed with Tamiya Acrylics in the past without a moisture trap, and my surfaces have always turned out fine without any blobs/dots of paint. When I've used Tamiya Acrylics I have airbrushed with 2/3 paint and 1/3 thinner.

Would anyone suggest for me to buy a moisture trap? Or could there be a different problem as to why I'm getting blobs/dots of paint?

Painting/Priming / Paint and airbrush questions...
« on: June 13, 2008, 06:30:47 PM »
I've got questions regarding paint. Recently I've began building kits again, and used Mr. Color paints. I notice these small little dots or blobs of paint once the parts are dry.

What can I do to get rid of these dots, or at least minimize them when I airbrush? I use a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio. The paint surface turns out great, these dots are just the problem.

Should I buy a new airbrush? I currently use an Iwata HP-CS airbrush, could higher quality brush help? If so, what do you recommend?


Not to go off topic, but what kind of spray booth would you guys recommend? I'd like to buy one, instead of building it since I'm at work a lot. I'd be able to spend $300, $400 tops.


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