This is going to be a long one… I’ve been thinking a lot about copper finishes lately for my Steampunk Fish-Shaped Submersible product. While considering how to achieve the look I wanted I realized that I have a LOT of copper products. Not sure why… maybe I’m looking for the perfect copper or just love metal finishes. Either way it’ll make for an interesting tutorial. Here’s a photo of all of the copper products that I have. (or at least those I remembered)

There’s Copper leaf, Sophisticated Finishes Copper Patina set, Apple Barrel “Pure Bronze” (looks like copper), Tamiya Acrylic Copper, Mr. Metal Color Copper (there’s also a Mr. Color Copper that I haven’t tried/bought), Alclad II Copper, Hawkeye/SnJ Copper Polishing Powder (they also make a paint that I’ve not tried/bought yet), Mig Productions Fantasy Pigments Copper, PearlEx Antique Copper and Sparkling Copper, Autumn Gold (copper) Rub n’ Buff, and of course copper sheet, rods and tubing.  I’ve tried every one of these for one project or another. Every one is useful in some way, but combined they make some great colors.

Here’s a bunch of swatches that I made tests of the above on. These tests are to create a realistic looking copper with patina. Patina is a fine coating of oxide which forms on the surface of the metal when exposed which protects the surface from weathering. Here’s a link to the oft mentioned Future Floor Acrylic clear-coat mixes.

1:  Sponged on Apple Barrel-style acrylic paints. Used Regency Blue, Bright Blue, Green Sage and White. Then dry-sponged  white streaks vertically. Then applied Hawkeye/SnJ copper powder with finger. (doesn’t show up, not great look anyway)

1:  Sponged on Apple Barrel-style acrylic paints. Used Regency Blue, Bright Blue, Green Sage and White. Then dry-sponged  white streaks vertically. Applied Autumn Gold (copper) Rub ‘n Buff mixed with a touch of black oil paint using a somewhat dry-brush. Airbrushed flat coat of Future Floor Acrylic.

3: Primed with black spray paint. Painted with thinned Autumn Gold Rub ‘n Buff thinned with Odorless Mineral Spirits. Mineral Spirits started to eat primer unfortunately. Buffed with cotton t-shirt rag.

4: Primed with black spray paint. Airbrushed on Alclad II Jet Exhaust. Airbrushed on Alclad II Copper in a mottled light pattern.

5: Primed with black spray paint. Airbrushed on Alclad II Copper.

5A: Track Brown Mig Pigment blended in with Odorless Turpenoid.

5B: Coated half of #5A with Gloss Future Floor Acrylic.

6: Primed with black spray paint. Airbrushed on Alclad II Copper. Next a mixture of Zombie Green, Ashes, and Neptune Blue Mig Pigments was sprinkled/dabbed on with a brush. These were then blended with Odorless Turpenoid. Clear-coated with Satin Future Floor Acrylic.

7: Primed with black spray paint. Airbrushed with Mr. Metal Color Copper.

7A: Track Brown Mig Pigment washed on with Odorless Turpenoid. Next a mixture of Zombie Green, Ashes, and Neptune Blue Mig Pigments was washed on with Odorless Turpenoid. Coated in Satin Future Floor Acrylic.

7B: Coated half of #7A with Gloss Future Floor Acrylic.

8: Primed with black spray paint. Copper foil leaf applied.

8A: Bottom half of Swatch #8 was dipped in ammonia cleaner then left to air dry. I repeated this twice. A month later, the result is as seen. I love it, but I fear it’s unpredictability.

9: Primed with black spray paint. Copper foil leaf applied. This was then soaked in ammonia cleaner for a few days in a patina/tarnishing attempt. The only result was clean copper and a slight dissolving of the glue under the leaf making it shrivel/warp.

10: Primed with black spray paint. Sophisticated Finishes copper paint sponged on. When dry the patina solution was applied. The effect and look are not so great in my opinion, but maybe I did it wrong. The patina solution on it’s own works nicely on real copper though.

Here’s more shots of the above in various stages of completion.

Here’s some real copper (right) and brass (left) bits placed in salt water for 6 months as a test. Why so long? I forgot about the sealed jar!!!

The method I liked best from my test is that seen in swatches #5, #6 and #7. I’ll demonstrate this on the figure bust below:

Primed figure with flat black spray paint then airbrushed on Alclad II Copper. (above)

Track Brown Mig Pigment washed on with Odorless Turpenoid. Allow to dry fully then airbrush on a satin coat of Future Floor Acrylic mix. (above)

A mixture of Zombie Green, Ashes, and Neptune Blue Mig Pigments was sprinkled/dabbed on with a brush. These were then blended with Odorless Turpenoid. Finally it was clear-coated with Satin Future Floor Acrylic. (above)

Side View… (above)

Another Angle… (above)

Watch my Fish Sub Build-Up thread for more copper techniques as I’ll be documenting what I learned above as I apply it to an actual model. I’m sure there’s more methods and products than those I showed above. If you got one, send me a pic and process. If you make a copper product, contact me and send me a sample to review! I’ll add them to this post or if cool enough to an all new post.

Next up I highlighted and shaded the panels on the Falke to distinguish them from the adjoining panels. This makes it look more worn and makes the individual panels stand out more. This was also done to the underside. Various mixes of Mip Productions’ 502 Abteilung oil paint were very lightly glazed and worked into the surface to keep the undercolor, but lighten or darked the paint underneath. I also used more of the “Primer Red” color to add more primer spots near the primer sprayed panel. Here’s the pics.

Next up will be some oil discoloration.

The Falke progress continues with decals and heat tarnished metal effects. First I applied Mig Productions filters to the unsealed hull right on top of mjy Tamiya paint coat. Best way to apply them! Then after a gloss clearcoat of Future I applied the decals. I used those that came with the kit as well as some from a Soviet plane for the numbers and a few additional markings by the cat decal.

I also started the weathering and tarnish effects for the engine and metal parts. After my initial Alclad II coats I applied a satin coat of Future to seal it. Then I used Silver and Gold Rub ‘N Buff as well as blue and violet oil paints. These were applied straight and blended randomly and applied to the surface. Then they were smoothed in. The results are great and gives that color-shifting look. Later I’ll ass some greasy grime and washes. I also added more red wires to clutter the look more after noticing that the Hind engines had a lot of these (and yellow) cable lines. The small red-coated handles were made from brass strip and striaght pins. The tip of the handle was dipped in cheap red acrylics to give it the rubber-coated look.

“Rub and Buff” is a silver oil/wax like substance that comes in a tube. I use the silver, but they also make other metallic colors. I bought it at Michael’s. What’s nice about it is that it doesn’t dry as fast as the Tamiya silver paint when drybrushing so I don’t waste a lot of paint.

To drybrush with Rub n’ Buff to get a slightly worn effect:

• Paint parts to be worn. For internals on an MG kit, I use a gunmetal or a dark grey.
• Squeeze a very small amount of Rub n’ Buff onto pallet.
• Put a little on your brush and then brush on a paper towel to remove most of the Rub n’ Buff from your brush.
• Lightly brush edges of painted parts with tip of brush. This will make it look like parts are worn.
• Clearcoat when you’re done. Rub n’ Buff takes weeks to dry, but can be clearcoated right away to keep it from smudging.