Posts Tagged ‘Diorama’ »
So far so good. Applied the decals that came with the kit for the G3 version, but made my scheme more of a Jolly Roger variant. Then added a flat coat and did my typical spacecraft weathering. (See Millenium Falcon YouTube Vids)Metals done with Alclad II lacquers. Skull decals leftover from Macross Zero kits.
Just one image today… busy busy busy… and sunburned. Sick of yardwork and it’s not even May.
Okay, I couldn’t resist. I got my UC Hardgraph Core Fighter kits (one for me and a future one for a client) and had to start one immediately while waiting for oil paint to dry. It’s a great kit… lots of detail, nice-sized, potential. I decided to do a low-vis type scheme which evolved into a Jolly Rogers type since I have plenty of leftover Macross Skull decals.
First things first though was painting the cockpit so that I could close it up and paint the exterior. It went together very easily and the clear insert part for the gauges on the center instrument panel allows for lighting the display. This requires removing the inside of the housing part, but a Dremmel tool makes short work of that. I painted the inside of the housing with silver and inserted a 3mm white LED into the bottom of the part via a drilled hole. Clear tamiya colors on the back of the clear (smoke) part colors the gauges when back-lit. Otherwise a white reverse wash makes some nice lines appear on the gauges. I tried the included instrument panel decals, but did not like them. It just looks better with some hand-painting and matches my teal Hind copter interior scheme.
The exterior was painted primarily in Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey. German Grey, “Falcon White” (leftover custom Tamiya mix for Star Wars kits), And a custom “gold and medium warm gray were also used. Alclad II Lacquers were used for the vents and jets.
I’m still planning the display base/diorama, but I picked up a couple 1/32 scale (close enough to 1/35 really) aircraft equipment kits. One is a “Modern Navy Flight Deck Tow Tractor” from Special Ops Models (get it here) and the other is a 1950′s era Ground Power Unit from Squadron Products, also in 1/32.
Also could really use some more of the Flight Crew figure that came with the Core Fighter kit. If anyone doesn’t mind parting with theirs, let me know!
Progress continues on the BergeLuther. I’ve applied the oil discoloration using the 502 Abteilung oils paints. This time I used the colors German Gray Highlight + Faded Navy Blue, Light Rust, Dark Mud and UN Faded White. These were dabbed on as usual then blended in with clean odorless turpenoid. Before this I attached a fuel barrel/mount, tools and extinguisher to the main body. The rust of the barrel mount was done with a rusty base coat followed up by sponging on lighter and darker rust tones. More pics below…
I also began work on the Mig Productions Burned Out Modern Car kit which arrived a few days ago. After cleaning the resin and constructing the wire seats using the supplied jig and a soldering iron, cleaning up the kit and painting has been a fun and relatively quick process. I used an SBS at the Mig forum by vsuarez666 seen here. It was a great tool for getting great results quickly. I’ve still a bit to go on it, but here’s where I’m at so far.
After priming the kit with self-etching primer I followed up with a coat of flat black spraypaint. Over that I sprayed a dark overall rust tone using the black base as shadows to show through, followed up by two lighter rust coats mottled on with my airbrush.
Over this base coat I used cheapie acrylics and stippled on yellow, brown, gray, blue and red with a damp sponge. This adds more color and variety to the rust and will add more depth in the next steps.
Over this stippled coat I sprayed a flat layer of FFA to seal the base coats. I let that cure overnight and the next day I sprayed the kit down with hairspray and generously sprinkled kosher and table salt over it.
After the hairspray dried I sprayed on some neutral gray, white, then a light mint color for that “classic” car feel.
I removed the salt by rubbing and with water and a brush removing some of the hairspray layer as well to re-expose the rust. Rubbing the salt off took some of the base coat with it resulting in some dark spots, but those actually add to the overall rustiness and look great IMO.
Then I took some rust-colored oils, some dark brown and some ocher and blended them into the surface to enhance the color. I then took some white and Faded German Gray which is a very light bluish color and enhanced the leftover paint spots of the vehicle.
Once this layer of oils dry I plan to go back with some grays and whites and dirty the car up as it’ll be sitting in a pile of building debris.
And speaking of debris, here’s the start of my base for the Berge. The Berge will be plowing some debris off a road and into an open crater. There will be corrugated steel, barrels, building rubble, the car, a fridge, chair and vacuum, girders, pipes, bricks and more. The base is foam and thin plywood for now, but all that will be covered. The exterior in basswood and the foam in Bondo, Celluclay, and a Sculpey road surface (made, but not pictured)
Since my last post I’ve pained additional details such as caution stripes and the rubber feet parts and applied more chipping effects. First I went through and used a butter color to create false chip highlights next to some of the paint chips as well as scrapes that didn’t go through to the metal. This same color was sponged on for more of the effect on random places… wherever it looked good. Unfortunately the color looks too white to me now, but a few filters of yellow or German Ocher will fix that. After the light yellow I went back and added yellow back to some of the larger chipped areas. This is known as “negative chips” IIRC. Works well and helps when I’ve removed too much paint with the hairspray technique.
Lastly I added finer chips using two methods. First I flicked spots of dark gray Vallejo paint onto the model to make fine little chips. A little goes a loooooong way so don’t overdo it. Then I sponged on Dark Rust and Dark Gray Vallejo to create more worn areas of rust where there would be more wear and tear. Feet, shovel, lower legs/shovel arm, etc… Then I clear-coated and added a few decals followed by a satin coat to prepare for the weathering steps.
I included a few more of my reference pics I’m using to depict a well-worn construction mecha. Here’s all the pics!
So I sent my turret off to a caster a few weeks ago. He decided to purchase the master and to produce it which is great because I got a bunch of copies for my use plus some trades which is nice.
I got my copies on Saturday morning and that night threw one into some ‘Purple Power’ to clean the mold release. They look great and with three parts, paint-up should be easy so I decided to see how quick I could paint one up. Here’s the process:
Received the kits and threw them onto a bath of Purple Power. You can get it at Walmart. It’s an engine cleaner/degreaser and great for removing the mold release agent from resin parts.
I removed the parts from the cleaner and scrubbed them down with an old toothbrush. I then did the minimal clean-up needed. A few small mold lines on the turret/gun and on the base of the base was all there was. Gave the turret two coats of primer. First was green Duplicolor Self-Etching then a coat of light gray Duplicolor filler primer. After that dried I buffed them with very fine steel wool to smooth out the filler primer.
After that I started on the base coat. This will be a multi-stage, multi-layered process so bear with me. I first sprayed it with Tamiya Light Sea Gray then I mottled some Deck Tan over that. Finally I did a post-shade of panel lines and shadow areas/damage with Tamiya Dark Gray. This was all later sealed with Future Floor Acrylic. It looks like an odd jungle camo, but this base coat will be mostly hidden by the next steps and serve to give a layered and used look.
Once the Future cured I gave the parts a few coats of hairspray and a sprinkling of crushed kosher salt over the still-wet hairspray. This will make for some interesting chipping effects through the whitewash when wet-down and chipped with small soft brushes and toothpicks.
Over the dried hairspray and salt I sprayed on thin coats of Tamiya Flat White. Allow some of the base-coat to show through. Make the top of the turret and other parts lighter to get a sunlight highlighted effect. Spray under the turret thinner to make false shadows.
Once the paint cures a bit… (I only waited about 20 minutes) take and dunk it in some water and use various brushes and such to remove the salt and to add more chipped paint. The hairspray loosens the top layer of paint with water allowing fo easy and realistic chips ranging from small faint scratches to huge blasted away areas.
At this point the contrast between the white and the base coat is pretty stark. I expected this and this allows for yet another layer to be added. All of these layers make for random variations leading to a more realistic end result. Over this spray another layer of white to blend in the chips until you’re satisfied with the look. Vary your obacity as usual to get a mottled realistic look.
At this point we’re ready for the actual weathering. While some might call this done, a few extra steps will really bring out the look and make something that’s plain white to be something that’s far more visually interesting. First I applied a Sin Industries filter (gray for white) then after a few hours of that drying I added some discoloration with oil paint. I used white, blue, dark rust and dark mud colors. After that I added more white oils over that to bring back the lightness that the discoloration and wash took away. Finally I added some rust streaks with oil paint. Here it is all done.
Dagobah is done, so now onto the next Star Wars commission and one of my favorite scenes… HOTH! While the scenery of the ice planet shouldn’t pose as many problems as Dagobah did, it has it’s own unique challenges. I need to make a barren and mostly flat snowscape interesting, but also very very large. I estimate the base of this 1/48 scale diorama will be about 2 x 5 feet when complete. This will be covered in snow, a trench, some boulders, and of course models!
Added to the scene will be the following:
- Two 1/48 Fine Molds Snowspeeders
- One Resin AT-AT (close enough to 1/48 to not make much difference)
- One AMT AT-ST heavily modified. (the possibility exists of having to mostly scratchbuild this part)
- Two Golan Arms DF.9 Anti Infantry Batterys (Scratchbuild)
- 1.4 FD P-Tower laser cannon (maybe) (Scratchbuild)
- 6 or so Rebel Soldiers in Hoth Gear (Scratchbuild)
- 1 Tauntaun with Rider (Scratchbuild)
- Misc. Boxes, conduit, etc… (Scratchbuild)
- And if I feel ambitions, a couple Snow Stormtroopers (Scratchbuild)
First up on the list is the DF.9 Anti Infantry Battery. Yeah… WTF is that you might ask? It’s that mushroom-shaped turret. Pretty common all over Echo Base.
When I started this I was using my Star Wars “Essential Guide to Weapons and Technology”, but it really didn’t match up with the stills I took from the movie. So I ended up mostly using the movie stills for reference, but a print-out of the Guide images for scale.
Here’s where I’m at so far. I’m *almost* done but just need to fill in some seams and whatnot. I need a few of these so will have to look into getting casts made. It’s made using a lot of styrene and a lot of bondo.
Here’s the rest of the images.
The scene is continuing to take shape. Since the last update I’ve completed the tank and assembling the figures I’ll be using. I’ve also assembled the UC Hardgraph Gundam Arm and will be resting in the wall of the abandoned/destroyed factory.
While putting the scene together it hit me that I could make this a multi-purpose base, something I’ve wanted to do for a while due to limited display space. I have a couple of German rail cars in 1/35 that I’ve been planning to “modernize” and build as scenery or just on their own for kicks. I decided that by adding embedded rails and a loading dock to the scene that I can later build and photograph them on this base instead of creating an all new base for them and thus take up even more display space.
Anyway, I first layed 2 sheets of 1/2″ MDF board to make a raised base. Then I used Basswood as a nice stainable border to clean-up the edges of the MDF and to create a lip for pouring my pavement using plaster of paris. While the Ebony stain and polycrylic finish was drying I sketched my layout on the base and photographed it for later reference. As usual this is subject to minor changes, but is pretty much how the layout will go. You can see how I later decided to add rails in red and the accompanying dock in blue.
Once dry I added a piece of scrap basswood and a lip of tape to contain my plaster pour. In the plaster mix I added a lot of rip-rap, talus, ballast and sand to give texture later when chipping out potholes. After the plaster cured I gave the base a coat of primer then immediately sprinkled the base with a thin dusting of baking soda then more primer to seal. This gives it a rougher more asphault-like texture.
When cured I chissled out the grooves for the rails and began scribing in cracks and potholes. Since this is a long-abandoned facility, maybe 3 years or so, nature has begun to take back the landscape. Most of the cracks will have weeds sprouting from them and fines/brush will be growing up the walls and arm. I also started making the mold for and pouring the sidewalk. I made a section of factory wall as well and will make multiple plaster casts of that too once my new silicone mold rubber arrives.
I began to create some of the details for the dio as well. First was a sheet of signs which I’ll print out later to use. You can download them here. I also made a cable spool from 1/32″ plywood sheet. Mig productions is sending me their Modern City Accessories volume 1 and 2 and modern street lamps to use for this piece. The set contains dumpsters, street lights, barriers, etc… I won’t be able to fit it all on, but all of it will find its way into future projects. I’ve also had a set of “Modern Diorama Accessories” from Blast Models for years that I’ve been meaning to use. I might throw something from that in. Sattelite dish, fridge, microwave, TV, computer, vacuum…
Here’s all the pics:
I’m in the mood for a tank and diorama and this has been burning a hole in my shelf since it arrived. It’s the 1/35 EFGF M61A5 Main Battle Tank “Semovente” Phantom Element from the realistic Gundam model series: U.C. Hard Graph.
This is a really big tank to say the least. Compared to my KV-2, the KV-2 looks rather small and meek. Lots of fantastic details are molded into the design such as non-slip texture, panels, latches, etc. Several places allow for open hatches and the rear door could be very easily modified to hinge open with a single cut down the molded center door-seam. The drivers hatch is very interesting as it does not flip open, but rather swivels in a circle to open up. This is due to the low clearance of the twin cannon barrels.
Speaking of barrels, the two barrels are two of only 5 parts that require seams to be dealt with. The other three are the front latches and the underside of the turret. All of these seams line up PERFECTLY with typical Bandai quality. Just snap them together and run some thin glue down the seams. Squeeze and you’re all set. Most of this kit still requires glue to put it together, but there’s a few snap-fit parts which IMO are in great places and really help line things up for gluing.
The road-wheels and suspension are fantastic. The suspension can be swiveled to allow this kit to sit on rough terrain without any modifications. The road wheels come in three parts each (2 halves and a polycap) and have that typical line of flash down the center that most armor kits tend to have. The easiest way to deal with is is to put the road wheels together then slide them on some brass rod in a drill. Choose brass rod that makes for a tight fit. Below you can see a youtube video of the clean-up process. It made the tedious process of cleaning up 24 road wheel halves into 12 very quick sanding sessions as seen below.
The kit can be constructed with the front/side covers on or off. Both look great, but I’m more partial to them being off and is probably how I will display mine. With them off there’s more room for stowage and you can see the treads and road wheels. Those places always look so great when weathered that it’s be a shame to hide them.
As of now the kit is constructed completely based on the instructions. I could prime and paint it and go from there, but I’m going to look it over some more and see if there’s anyplace worth modifying with leftover PE latches, stowage hooks and whatnot. I’ll be adding a pile of stowage to this thing as I often do. I just love the look of a lived-in, used AFV with lots of equipment hanging off of it. I’ll also be making this into a diorama utilizing the Gundam Arm set and making some factory ruins in the background.
Contest Starts February 21st!
If I can do it in 10, you can do it in 31. Our next contest is a speed-build. Take the next week to gather your supplies, kits, materials and ideas. Then on February 21, 2009 we start building. Tools down on March 23rd, 31 days later.
- You can build and enter anything EXCEPT Bandai Gundam or Gundam kits in general. Let’s face it, who can’t build one of those in a month. They’re too easy and really won’t push anyone to try new things and expand their skills. Any other kit in any other scale is fine.
- You cannot start before 2/21/2009
- You must take images, no matter where you are of your project and display them for the 3/23/2009 deadline. Call it a “Hall of Fame” or “Hall of Shame”.
- Kit must have a base. Not a piece of clear acrylic or a wooden plaque. No, make an actual scene-type base. Dirt, water, concrete, whatever. Be creative!
- You must show a dated image of your unstarted kit and materials as proof of not cheating. Be creative on how you accomplish this.
- Must show final images by Noon EST March 24th.
That’s it. What’s the point in this you might ask? Well for one our contests have started to drag on and on and on and without proper motivation you guys just procrastinate and don’t finish. I and others have found that trying to push yourself like this keeps your motivated. Also you guys are still stuck on Gundam. I like it too, but you’re not expanding your skills. Doing something else will make you learn new things and help you be a better modeler whether you go on to other subjects or back to Gunpla.
Plus it’s for fun. Enjoy this and go crazy! It’s cold out, what else you gonna do?
Glory awards for fastest GOOD build, most complex, and best vertical use of small footprint base. Fit as much as you can, nicely, on as small a display as you can. Go up! Perhaps there will be a prize or two at the end but the real rewards are the satisfaction in completion and expanding your skillset.